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The GSXR 600,750 & 1000 Hangout. Where All GSXR Riders Chill And Gather!!

MPeX

By MPeX
in Sport Bikes

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blackiek7 Newbie

blackiek7

Posted
Posted

noted bros... thanks for all the solution provided... my bike is mainly a day to day commuting bike with occasional touring...

 

so maybe i just check my brake pads and maybe do a bleed before my trip... dun like soft brakes...

BlackPhantomRider aka Blackie aka OrhLuLu aka Xiao Hei

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JoJo Newbie

JoJo

Posted
Posted
07 is a fast bike....get it or u will regret....

just beware with the stalling....

 

wat stalling? can elaborate more? :cheeky:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs379.ash2/65701_176002369095418_100000569694348_526694_4927685_n.jpg

Think you are the fastest? Think again.

Shark Newbie

Shark

Posted
Posted
u dun have to go to the extreme of changing ur master pump bro if u using it for road use and occasional long rides/touring. if ur stock is getting soft, just go and get it bleed. more economical n cost saving. if u're thinking of changing to steel-braided hose, it is recommended too. there's alot of not so expensive replacement hoses these days. cheers`

 

steady la bro red rose.. wahaha...

well, the brake pump helps a lot at track because suzukis have this tendency to brake fade after sometime,,, so its a useful tool if you track a lot... but if you tour or more road-use,,, i think the OEM pump is good enough :thumb:

:slapforehead:
KickStrt Newbie

KickStrt

Posted
Posted
Master cylinder aka master pump..

 

There's aftermarkets from Brembo(Lots of place has this), Magura, Braking(Sporting), Discacciati(Motoworld) etc etc..

 

Currently on Brembo 19RCS M/C on my bike..Must say the feeling is one of a kind..

 

RCS = Ratio Click System..Switchable between 18x19 or 19x20..

 

braking by motovation... sporting close shop liao...

 

noted bros... thanks for all the solution provided... my bike is mainly a day to day commuting bike with occasional touring...

 

so maybe i just check my brake pads and maybe do a bleed before my trip... dun like soft brakes...

 

soft brakes save lifes... especially during rainy days...

as long as it doesnt fade during ur use... it's good enough...

 

any guy can help?

:dozed::dozed::dozed:

 

paid $180 for front fork rebuilt... inclusive of seals...

was quoted the same for the rear... done by racetech mech...

left the bike there for 1 day...

http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv179/KickStart03/IMG_0297.jpg?t=1242980525

It's all about the 'K'

MC28 Newbie

MC28

Posted
Posted
braking by motovation... sporting close shop liao...

 

Close liaox mehx??

 

Cos like 1 month ago when i wanted to change my RCS, my friend help me call up Joe to check on Braking also..

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/akrapovick4/thedoctor.jpg
Khuboy Newbie

Khuboy

Posted
Posted
steady la bro red rose.. wahaha...

well, the brake pump helps a lot at track because suzukis have this tendency to brake fade after sometime,,, so its a useful tool if you track a lot... but if you tour or more road-use,,, i think the OEM pump is good enough :thumb:

 

but i think master pump wont help solve brake fade much. brake fade prob should be solved by changing better grades brake pad and disc, lastly check the quality n condition of brake fluids.

 

Brake fade are caused by the hike in temperature, cheaper grades pads, disc n even fluid tends to be unstable in these extreme temperature, even at times expand from the extreme heat. Thus making feedback different from initial ride when its much cooler.

Shark Newbie

Shark

Posted
Posted

HI Brudders :-

Just clearing off my some Suzuki parts:-

 

K5-K8 1000 Front Fender - (Super New)

K5-K8 1000 Rear Hugger - Carbon Fibre (New, unused)

K1-K4 750 Factory Pro Stacks - (New, unused)

 

Drop me a PM if anyone is keen to get it

:slapforehead:
Shark Newbie

Shark

Posted
Posted
Brake fade are caused by the hike in temperature, cheaper grades pads, disc n even fluid tends to be unstable in these extreme temperature, even at times expand from the extreme heat. Thus making feedback different from initial ride when its much cooler.

 

not sure about others, i've used EBC, brembo & Vesrah pads using the OEM pump, initial bite of the pump improves braking tremendous, but after 9 or 10 laps on the tracks, brakes start to weaken, ie need to press harder & harder after each lap.

 

changed master pump, solved problem. one point even changed back to OEM pads. Purposely asked my good fren to join the 5-lap fun race using my bike, he finished 3rd saying the bike's controls were :thumb:

 

but like i say, this all based on my opinions... if others disagree then its with all due respects :thumb:

:slapforehead:
JoJo Newbie

JoJo

Posted
Posted
means that sometimes while riding, the bike's engine will automatically cut off due to the TPS issues

 

 

 

get 1 then :angel:

 

is it really bad?

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs379.ash2/65701_176002369095418_100000569694348_526694_4927685_n.jpg

Think you are the fastest? Think again.

R1Rider Newbie

R1Rider

Posted
Posted
wat stalling? can elaborate more? :cheeky:

 

better not me that explain..i will get flamed too much if i explain:(

....already explained well by lo-on above....

06 GSXR1000 (track), 13 BMW R1200GS LC (street) :p

KickStrt Newbie

KickStrt

Posted
Posted
Close liaox mehx??

 

Cos like 1 month ago when i wanted to change my RCS, my friend help me call up Joe to check on Braking also..

 

i think close for a few months liao... call motovation for braking... or HKL, ah beng or imotor, i think they take stock from motovation also...

 

but i think master pump wont help solve brake fade much. brake fade prob should be solved by changing better grades brake pad and disc, lastly check the quality n condition of brake fluids.

 

Brake fade are caused by the hike in temperature, cheaper grades pads, disc n even fluid tends to be unstable in these extreme temperature, even at times expand from the extreme heat. Thus making feedback different from initial ride when its much cooler.

 

masterpump is the main reason for brake fade... trackers will know...

i ever pull my brake lever till it touches the bar... dangerous...

 

not sure about others, i've used EBC, brembo & Vesrah pads using the OEM pump, initial bite of the pump improves braking tremendous, but after 9 or 10 laps on the tracks, brakes start to weaken, ie need to press harder & harder after each lap.

 

changed master pump, solved problem. one point even changed back to OEM pads. Purposely asked my good fren to join the 5-lap fun race using my bike, he finished 3rd saying the bike's controls were :thumb:

 

but like i say, this all based on my opinions... if others disagree then its with all due respects :thumb:

 

agree with u...

http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv179/KickStart03/IMG_0297.jpg?t=1242980525

It's all about the 'K'

MC28 Newbie

MC28

Posted
Posted

I love my Brembo RCS !!! :angel:

 

Shark: Bro, the rotors right..Works great after the whole thing gets heated up. Cools down fast once u stop..

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/akrapovick4/thedoctor.jpg
nd_danial Newbie

nd_danial

Posted
Posted
Gd evening mates~

 

jus curious, how mani of u get a class 2 bike b4 u went to the army?

tough? pls share ur experience.

 

im serving NS now. im ridin a r1 07. financial wise, can afford bcos officer pay. but dont always get to ride cos usually back at camp. but if can afford, its definately worth getting..

Vespa Px200, Tzm150, Spark 135, DRZ400sm, Yamaha r1' 07, Ducati 1098s - Past rides

 

BMW C600 Sport, BMW HP4 - Present rides

dumgum Newbie

dumgum

Posted
Posted
but i think master pump wont help solve brake fade much. brake fade prob should be solved by changing better grades brake pad and disc, lastly check the quality n condition of brake fluids.

 

Brake fade are caused by the hike in temperature, cheaper grades pads, disc n even fluid tends to be unstable in these extreme temperature, even at times expand from the extreme heat. Thus making feedback different from initial ride when its much cooler.

 

Well said...MASTER PUMP WONT SOLVE BRAKE FADE MUCH...BUT WILL CUT TO MIN....

 

AS FOR THE REST...YOU DID YOUR RESEARCH...UPSSSS

many ppl dont care much abt brake fluids..it DOES MAKE ALOT OF DIFF..:thumb:

DazeWei Newbie

DazeWei

Posted
Posted

hi guys

 

anyone know where can i dup my yamaha keys? and how much would it cost?

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii21/dazewei/1-2-1.jpg
Khuboy Newbie

Khuboy

Posted
Posted

wow tats a lot of info for me... i think after all these feedbacks i got from u guys, i should think main culprit is BRAKE FLUID. anyway personally i use rcs n i like the feel but i dun have the experience of tracking, except illegally doing "tracking" at IBP for at most only about 10laps or so.

I had read lot of articles about the fluid boiling pt, imagine as the no of laps increased the temperature at pads get extreme hot and some of this heat goes to the fluid by conduction. this is when u need to know the boiling pt of fluid. In general, all fluid evaporates below boiling pt and starts to form micro bubble just before boiling pt. when bubbles r formed this loses the "solid" hydraulic effect and caused it to feel softer or spongy.

 

This jus r my 2 cents, no hard feelings or watsoever. Feel free to enlighten my engineering knowledge.:)

Khuboy Newbie

Khuboy

Posted
Posted
Well said...MASTER PUMP WONT SOLVE BRAKE FADE MUCH...BUT WILL CUT TO MIN....

 

AS FOR THE REST...YOU DID YOUR RESEARCH...UPSSSS

many ppl dont care much abt brake fluids..it DOES MAKE ALOT OF DIFF..:thumb:

 

Fren care to share wat brake fluid u reccomend? and where is it available, i need to change my hose n swap my rcs to my new k9.

Dr M Newbie

Dr M

Posted
Posted
masterpump is the main reason for brake fade... trackers will know...

 

brake fluids..it DOES MAKE ALOT OF DIFF..:thumb:

 

Feel free to enlighten my engineering knowledge.:)

 

how...to believe tracker...old man...or engineer....LOL. :lol: suddenly this thread become so shiok.

just kidding guys. :angel: upss for my bros :thumb:

http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww4/mambowake/mvagusta.jpg
Khuboy Newbie

Khuboy

Posted
Posted

i think threads should be fill up this way so as to "Knowledge Management".

Thru these little inputs from each n everyone, we actually gain more knowledge n experience in a short period of time. my 2 cents again.:thumb:

MC28 Newbie

MC28

Posted
Posted

Eugene: Is your rect mounted on the original location? My rect backside crack, very high chances it's due to the heat generating from the engine side as mention by my mech.Without much cool air from the front and hot air front the back, it might happen again. So he remount my new rect onto another location instead.

 

What I have found by deduction is that the mounting position of the Rectifier/Regulator is very poor (behind the radiator and inches above the header pipe) There is not enough air flow to dissipate the heat which has lead me to testing the rectifier and concluding that it is shot.

 

Above is actually off another problem about the herky jerky throttle issue.

 

Somehow i have to agree that it's a bad mounting position to be in. I'll show u the new mounting location after i roll it out tomorrow..

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/akrapovick4/thedoctor.jpg

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