Honda Blackbird CBR1100 XX

[penyu]

personally the b king looks nice but if u gonna do it there will be a problem with ur ignition which will be hard to modify but practically busa 08 will best lor....hahaha if u need any help just buz me cos i am really interested in ur forks.....the numbers 94357587 mahmud aka penyu.....

Not so soon bro, want to enjoy the ride in the meantime . But actually i am trying to at my little freetime to read up on the compatibility of the 2008 Busa fork and the B-King front fork and see which one is better.

 

I personally like the finish of the B-King front fork but i may have a problem if i use the top triple clamp of the B-King becos there is no ignition key mount on the top clamp. The B-King uses regular handle bar mount like those on the Super 4 and can give a rather upright posture while the 08 Busa have a more incline posture.

 

Anyway still thinking hard before whether i should go into this again and if yes, alot got to do with which one i prefer.

 

1st time was tough, 2nd time should be smooth going once i cross over the technical part.

[greysnail]

morning birdies....

Tomolo-Fri all foreign registered vehicle will be paying different petrol price.

Usually we pay RM1.92 per litre(S$-90c)

Now we gonna pay RM3.10 per liter.(S$1.40)

 

Price i got from forum.

[prison break]

morning birdies....

Tomolo-Fri all foreign registered vehicle will be paying different petrol price.

Usually we pay RM1.92 per litre(S$-90c)

Now we gonna pay RM3.10 per liter.(S$1.40)

 

Price i got from forum.

 

I just came back from jb, still rm1.92 leh.. anyway later in the afternoon i'll go in again with my x9 to pump.. will update u all again. btw custom damn jam when getting out of kelongpore! anyway, sg$1.40 reminds me of Sg shell 92 few years back . cheap and good.

[penyu]

hello birdies.....hmmm the thread seem to be a little quiet lor.......i guess everyones busy....anyway cheers bros

[greysnail]

Morning birdies!!!!!!!!

[OngBak]

regards to all BB riders,

 

been ridding this 2002 F.I blackbird for the past 6mths, done sychronising, spark plug changed once took over but till now havent change yet (15K run). using 95 or silver grade for past 3 mths due to steep petrol price.

untill recently :

 

1. the f.i remain lit up(constant, no blicking) after i turn on the ignition.

2. it goes away together with the E.O indicator after i start the engine.

 

Problem:

 

1. no sign of prob when warming up.

2. un-smooth acceleration/ridding at any gear any speed sometimes.

3. seems to have uneven fuel/air etc or combustion mixture( i dun know)

4. sudden lost of power and have to throttle harder during ridding. Knocking?

 

Approach 5 different mechanic from 5 different shop, end up:

 

Mech 1 : change ecu & wire hareness

Mech 2 : couldnt find fault according to BB manual, suggest just ignore and ride first. monitor situation or blicking if arise..

Mech 3 : maybe TPS sensor.

Mech 4 : maybe Mapping prob, ecu. Have to leave bike to track the prob.

Mech 5 : Meter wiring, or ecu replacement.

 

anyone having or heard this prob before?

which shop or mechanic really good in this rather than chopping us up?

 

urgent help !! thanks alot !!

[greysnail]

regards to all BB riders,

 

been ridding this 2002 F.I blackbird for the past 6mths, done sychronising, spark plug changed once took over but till now havent change yet (15K run). using 95 or silver grade for past 3 mths due to steep petrol price.

untill recently :

 

1. the f.i remain lit up(constant, no blicking) after i turn on the ignition.

2. it goes away together with the E.O indicator after i start the engine.

 

Problem:

 

1. no sign of prob when warming up.

2. un-smooth acceleration/ridding at any gear any speed sometimes.

3. seems to have uneven fuel/air etc or combustion mixture( i dun know)

4. sudden lost of power and have to throttle harder during ridding. Knocking?

 

Approach 5 different mechanic from 5 different shop, end up:

 

Mech 1 : change ecu & wire hareness

Mech 2 : couldnt find fault according to BB manual, suggest just ignore and ride first. monitor situation or blicking if arise..

Mech 3 : maybe TPS sensor.

Mech 4 : maybe Mapping prob, ecu. Have to leave bike to track the prob.

Mech 5 : Meter wiring, or ecu replacement.

 

anyone having or heard this prob before?

which shop or mechanic really good in this rather than chopping us up?

 

urgent help !! thanks alot !!

 

Hi Muay Thai fighter...

The Fi lite normally won't blink when riding.

To check what the error codes,u need the engine running and the fi lite to appear.Once that happens,the Fi lite will come out but wont blink.So wat u need to do next is to put the bike in neutral with engine running.Kick the sidestand down and kick the stand back up.Then the Fi will show the error code.

 

Hope u noe how to count the blinks.

long blink represent unit of 10th

short blink represent unit of 1th

For example: 2 long blinks and 5 short blinks is 25 blinks

Stands for :-Knock sensor

 

Once u got ur error code do post here so that we noe wat the probs.

[prison break]

i forgot to update u all, malaysia petrol price dosent affect bikers, but for cars, after 9th june will pay rm3.10 per little.

[mb2636]

Well Tenshi,my bike also has i 25blinks -knock sensor....the best thing to do is act donno.Alai did state that i need to change my ecm.Y dun u try doing valve clearance and using fuel system cleaner to clean those injectors and block before spending loads of $$$$.Juz my 2 cents.

 

 

 

I'm still living with the 25 christmas lite:angel:

 

Thanks bro...after he repair its ok now so i dont tink i'm going to spend cos there's other things that i need to change...

 

 

Friends, I really doubt you need to change ECM and change wiring harness because of the 25 blinks. If the knock sensor is blinking, that means your engine is facing detonation, or perhaps there's a short in the knock sensor and it needs replacement. If you think about this, if there really was a short in the wiring harness, why would everyone get the same signal, for knock sensor? It would short circuit randomly and cause all kinds of different problems. Besides, the ECM is very accurate in determining where the short circuits are coming from, and will tell you accordingly (to a certain extent).

 

I've experienced that pumping petrol in Malaysia will cause this (blinking), perhaps the petrol they're selling is not the real octane level that's indicated on the pump, so when you ride your bike hard, the petrol will pre-ignite causing detonation (blackbird is a high compression engine after all). Are you pumping petrol in Malaysia?

 

I went on a trip once, and pumped petrol at a pump near Kulai, when I was back home in S'pore riding on AYE, my FI light came on. When I came back I diagnosed it myself, and same like yours, knock sensor. I intended to send the bike for servicing on Monday (it was Saturday then), but then on the next 2 days when I ride it, the light didn't come on again. After I pump new tank of petrol in S'pore and up till now, I've never seen the light again, thankfully.

 

I know a little bit about ECMs as I worked on them in my previous job. ECMs are normally manufactured to last 10 years, and if the FI light is blinking, you can be sure the ECM is not malfunctioning, as the software has to be running correctly in order to do that. In fact, if your ECM was spoilt in any way, you won't even be able to start or ride your bike.

 

The fuel injector opening times, spark firing times, etc. are all controlled by the ECM. After long usage, the memory chip (EEPROM) may be the first to go, as they only have a fixed number of times they can be erased and re-written. This part stores the settings of your bike, it learns as your bike gets older and the engine ages (like it may retard ignition advance, and fuel delivery times as your engine is not as tight as when new). But it's good for 100,000 erase cycles, so it'll last a long, long time! 10 - 15 years or more for the kind of riding we do, is my guess. The engine may then feel a bit rougher, but no way will you get strange blinks even then, it doesn't work that way.

 

There may be other reasons for the knock sensor blink. Some I can think of are high carbon buildup, so much so that the carbon on the piston crown or even near the valve inlet/outlets are glowing from the heat of the engine and pre-ignites the fuel mixture causing detonation. Advance timing is electronically controlled by the ECM and not adjustable, so it should be ok (unless you've messed with it using piggyback systems like PC3). And of course fuel quality.

 

I've personally also heard this story before from my mechanic. "Blackbird has a very common problem, FI light blink 25 times, if yours blink, must change ECM and wiring harness!" I know this is not politically correct, but I really suspect they're doing this for extra revenue, and they should know better, being in this line.

 

No other motive here, just trying to save you some unnecessary big bucks (which won't help at all even if you spend it), so it's up to you who to believe. You can also try some of the UK or US blackbird sites and ask around, I doubt they have this problem (because their govt. probably regulates the petrol quality).

 

Bro..this is to tell that u are a xperience BB rider and how i wish that i go in this thread long ago:cry: ...I'm newbie on this BB and wen i read the BB manual its says that it will damage the engine system if not treated that y i panic and wan to settle it asap...and the blinking light is rather irritating as it light on all the way wen riding...good lesson though and i guess we all knows who to ask advice from nex time... ...hope u don mind:cheeky:

[mb2636]

i forgot to update u all, malaysia petrol price dosent affect bikers, but for cars, after 9th june will pay rm3.10 per little.

 

 

thanks for the info bro...

[mb2636]

By the way jus for the BB bro...I dont know if any1 has a manual for BB but jus in case u guys dont have,i got a hardcopy for it...so if u guys need it can always zap from me but to let u know its not cheap to print out though....as i spend nearly 60 bucks for it...but if u need do let me know alright...

[penyu]

cool i have a soft copy of the manual n parts list......thanx aniway bro

By the way jus for the BB bro...I dont know if any1 has a manual for BB but jus in case u guys dont have,i got a hardcopy for it...so if u guys need it can always zap from me but to let u know its not cheap to print out though....as i spend nearly 60 bucks for it...but if u need do let me know alright...

[greysnail]

Hi K-Tenshi,wat was the Fi lite?wat did he do to repair?Mind sharing with us?

 

 

BTW...A Gd Monday Morning.....Yea....Rossi wins!!!!!!!

[OngBak]

thanks alot greysnail !! maybe will go to mech 3 for servicing..S@nFu

[mb2636]

Hi K-Tenshi,wat was the Fi lite?wat did he do to repair?Mind sharing with us?

 

 

BTW...A Gd Monday Morning.....Yea....Rossi wins!!!!!!!

 

Well wen i check the flashing on the FI lite with the manual it state knock sensor so i told him but he did fix in the new knock sensor but the fault still not rectified and he believe that the ECM gave problem and he did to most of the BB that have the same problem and all been rectified...so i believe he couldnt have lie...lik i say...saw on the manual state that if knock sensor fault occurs, its best to rectify asap...so wat to do...spend the money...

 

Actually i dont know if its related but after i rectify, the fuel effiency is better now as last time i can go 300km before reserved but now i can go at least 315 (maybe further as the reserved light have not blink)

 

And funny tat after i change the wire harness...the idiling (wen Starting) is much faster den it used to...does any1 experience this wen changing wire harness...but the all gauges light do glow bright (like new) though...and i lik it:thumb: :cheeky:

[sujak]

wah ppl wif 300km before reserve light kicks in really makes me wonder wads really wrong wif my bike.. een trying highway riding and the best i can can was 2600 on my trip meter before reserve.. arrgghh.. shud i rectify it or shud i jus let it be.. or shud i scout for a new bird..

[penyu]

good info there bro.....bout the idling.......its normal when u start the idling would be fast as our BB is in the auto choke mode which is for early morning cold start.....or if the temp is cold......the idling would be around 1.5 to 2 then it will drop to ur normal idling at 1 rpm.........i dnt knoe if its rite or wrong......

Well wen i check the flashing on the FI lite with the manual it state knock sensor so i told him but he did fix in the new knock sensor but the fault still not rectified and he believe that the ECM gave problem and he did to most of the BB that have the same problem and all been rectified...so i believe he couldnt have lie...lik i say...saw on the manual state that if knock sensor fault occurs, its best to rectify asap...so wat to do...spend the money...

 

Actually i dont know if its related but after i rectify, the fuel effiency is better now as last time i can go 300km before reserved but now i can go at least 315 (maybe further as the reserved light have not blink)

 

And funny tat after i change the wire harness...the idiling (wen Starting) is much faster den it used to...does any1 experience this wen changing wire harness...but the all gauges light do glow bright (like new) though...and i lik it:thumb: :cheeky:

[penyu]

hahaha pc3 lah bro....hahaha

wah ppl wif 300km before reserve light kicks in really makes me wonder wads really wrong wif my bike.. een trying highway riding and the best i can can was 2600 on my trip meter before reserve.. arrgghh.. shud i rectify it or shud i jus let it be.. or shud i scout for a new bird..

[greysnail]

Well wen i check the flashing on the FI lite with the manual it state knock sensor so i told him but he did fix in the new knock sensor but the fault still not rectified and he believe that the ECM gave problem and he did to most of the BB that have the same problem and all been rectified...so i believe he couldnt have lie...lik i say...saw on the manual state that if knock sensor fault occurs, its best to rectify asap...so wat to do...spend the money...

 

Actually i dont know if its related but after i rectify, the fuel effiency is better now as last time i can go 300km before reserved but now i can go at least 315 (maybe further as the reserved light have not blink)

 

And funny tat after i change the wire harness...the idiling (wen Starting) is much faster den it used to...does any1 experience this wen changing wire harness...but the all gauges light do glow bright (like new) though...and i lik it:thumb: :cheeky:

 

So u are saying,u change the ECM and wire harness?

Wats the damage$$$

 

Btw...how old is ur 'bird'?

[greysnail]

wah ppl wif 300km before reserve light kicks in really makes me wonder wads really wrong wif my bike.. een trying highway riding and the best i can can was 2600 on my trip meter before reserve.. arrgghh.. shud i rectify it or shud i jus let it be.. or shud i scout for a new bird..

 

Try change back to ori sprocket.front and back.17/45

 

And most important....................................Right hand discipline...

[penyu]

slamat pagi siput....hahahaha

[greysnail]

slamat pagi siput....hahahaha

 

Slamat ptg penyu:angel:

[penyu]

takder cita pe bro????senyup je?????

Slamat ptg penyu:angel:

[greysnail]

takder cita pe bro????senyup je?????

 

 

Looks like it.

AGV stealth going for $350.Gd deal or not?

too bad cannot splurge$$$ on dat...need to settle something else la....

Nice siak the paint work.

 

This Fri nite....ermm.

just post la.see if there's any ppl interested in clearing carbon.

Aniway i'm werking the next morning la.

[MiddleAgedBiker]

regards to all BB riders,

 

been ridding this 2002 F.I blackbird for the past 6mths, done sychronising, spark plug changed once took over but till now havent change yet (15K run). using 95 or silver grade for past 3 mths due to steep petrol price.

untill recently :

 

1. the f.i remain lit up(constant, no blicking) after i turn on the ignition.

2. it goes away together with the E.O indicator after i start the engine.

 

Problem:

 

1. no sign of prob when warming up.

2. un-smooth acceleration/ridding at any gear any speed sometimes.

3. seems to have uneven fuel/air etc or combustion mixture( i dun know)

4. sudden lost of power and have to throttle harder during ridding. Knocking?

 

Approach 5 different mechanic from 5 different shop, end up:

 

Mech 1 : change ecu & wire hareness

Mech 2 : couldnt find fault according to BB manual, suggest just ignore and ride first. monitor situation or blicking if arise..

Mech 3 : maybe TPS sensor.

Mech 4 : maybe Mapping prob, ecu. Have to leave bike to track the prob.

Mech 5 : Meter wiring, or ecu replacement.

 

anyone having or heard this prob before?

which shop or mechanic really good in this rather than chopping us up?

 

urgent help !! thanks alot !!

 

This is something about local shops i really cannot tahan. They don't bother to troubleshoot the problem properly in a logical systematic way, just suggest changing parts. Just throw money at the problem till it goes away.

 

On Mech 4: Mapping problem, if you're running the stock ECM the mapping is not configurable. You cannot change it. Some info about your bike will help also, like which year, carbed/EFI, whether you're running stock ECM or PC3.

 

Bro, this are the things that I will check.

 

- check your spark plugs. Are they in good condition? When were they last changed?

- when was the last time your air cleaner was cleaned?

- check fuel pressure and fuel flow, is the fuel flow ok?

- check your ECM wiring harness, has any of the wires been cut? I've heard that some people do this, they use a piggyback system and then when they remove they don't do it back properly.

- do a compression check for all your cylinders, this will tell you if your piston ring seal and valve seal is good.

- bring it to a dyno and do a dyno run, with an Air/Fuel mixture printout together with the RPM vs HP/Torque readings. When power drops, is the mixture leaning out (not enough fuel, could be fuel line pinching, fuel filter clogged, fuel pump losing pressure, etc.) or too rich (plugs fouling, dirty air cleaner)?

 

Do the cheap stuff first. I suggest you bring your bike to Boon Siew (if the other shops refuse to do a proper troubleshoot for you) and ask that they trouble shoot for you step by step, doing the cheapest fix first to the more expensive.

 

Profit margins for the wiring harness and ECU is probably very high ah, everyone suggest throwing money to fix all kinds of problems. Maybe it can fix my balding hair also.