<Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

[scoobydoo]

Maintenance Schedule for Silver Wing

(from FJS400 owners manual)

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Maintenance_p1_zps2axgdfpm.jpg

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Maintenance_p3_zpsbkmpcs3k.jpg

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Maintenance_p2_zpsgciszwgh.jpg

 

My personal (a matter of personal preference) servicing/wear-n-tear replacement pattern:

(during the times when my FJS was still regularly used)

~ note that prices will depend a lot on which workshop you go, especially for labour services

 

Every 5k km:

* change fully synthetic 10w40 EO, 3 bottles of 1L each

. . engine bay requires 2L, and approx 2.2+L if changing oil filter

. . remaining 0.7+L to be used for final drive

. . price range depends on brand/model of EO, around $24 per bottle

* change final drive oil (oil from 3rd can of EO)

* change oil filter

. . price range from $18 to $25 depending on stock or aftermarket filters

 

Every 10k km:

~ in addition to 5k km servicing

* check/clean transmission assembly (rollers, belt, CVT plates, etc)

* check/clean clutch assembly (clutch pegs, bell, etc)

* check/tighten spark plugs (DIY)

* clean air filter

. . i'm using K&N so a good "blow job" is enough unless returning from tour

 

Every 20k km:

~ in addition to 5k km servicing

* change 3-in-1 replacement (rollers, belt & u-clips set)

. . some riders change later (or 3 items at different intervals) but i lazy to monitor, "3-in-1" easier to remember

. . price range from $220 to $250 depending workshop (include labour)

* wash air filter

. . K&N air filters to be maintained/washed with specific solvents

* change spark plugs (denso iridium IUH-24)

. . price range from $15 to $25 depending workshop or DIY (buy from LAB)

* check/synchronise air-screw

. . i usually DIY, some workshops charge about $30-$40 for service

 

Every 25k km:

~ approx 1 year due to daily "E-W touring" and overseas tour trips

~ in addition to 5k km servicing

* change tyres (both front & rear)

. . or change when worn, or after use for 1 year

. . usually use Pirelli Diablo Scoot, price range from $180 to $220 depending on workshop

* check/change wheel bearings if worn

* drain/change brake oil

* change coolant

. . usually use "Engine Ice", price around $60 depending on workshop

 

note:

since my bike became a "weekend bike", maintenance schedule also became another story

 

Added lately ...

Note: the below price estimates exclude labour/workmanship costs...

Below are estimates. Other than belt and rollers that are specifics for scooters, the rest are similar to other bikes that should be serviced at your own discretion.

 

EO = 5k. 2 litres about $46.

Oil filter = 10k. $15. Alternated EO change.

Transmission Oil = 10k. Alternative EO change, together with oil filter. * Use left over EO from oil filter/EO change.

Spark plugs = 15k of more. Normal plugs at $8 or Iridium at $18++.

Air filter = 20k. Stock must replace ($40), K & N can re-use ($90).

 

Belt = 24k. $130++

Rollers = 48k. $40++

U-clip = 48k. $8++

Hi All,

 

I am thinking of upgrading to 2nd hand Silverwing 400. But i am not sure whether would i spend more on servicing,etc. can someone share with me like the things to change during servicing and how much it cost? And how frequent it need to change.

 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - -

 

FAQ posts below are transferred from

posted by lokeks on 03-10-2006 06:56 AM ... as below

 

 

Silverwing all model

 

General FAQ

 

Q: wat is the power difference between the 600 n 400 sw?

A: If you would have downloaded the manual or been to the website of HONDA, you would have know it is about 36［49］/7,000 and 28［38］/7,500 （kw[PS]/rpm）.

 

Q: wats the price for a 2rd hand 400/600 avg?

A: Ask the bike shops/ seller . 2nd bike bikes depends on body/bike condition and supply/demand, too many factors to name.

 

Q:is there a lot of vibration when criusing ard 100km/h?rpm range?

A: which bike doesnt? Anyway, any vibration is very minor. In fact, for silverwing, it is a very smooth bike at all speed.

 

Q: which shops recommended to get 2rd hand for 600 /400?

A: Any shops have that them in the 1st place.

 

Q: what r the problems to look out for 4 a 2rd hand?

A: Ask the bike shops or owners. Else, you need to open up the scoot and inspect.

SW is generally a very reliable bike.

 

Q: having a hard time tinking either a 400 or 600 cuz i and my partner are heavy weighted.

A: Maximun laden weight of SW is 180kg.

 

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++

 

1. is there any special features for e lastest model compare to e previous? i heard theres a switch to turn on power to overtake...

Lately i saw the new version 06' model (Euro), there is 2 pilot light beside the head light. But no more 'Turbo' switch which i think is not neccessary as the bike got 'power' liao, and also they don't come with hazard light which i think it is useful when needed.

 

2. how much for a 1st hand if my age is 26yrs old?

12.6k on the road with 3rd party fire & thife.pls note: Price will varies

 

3. how much is e normal maintainance n full servicing (change belt etc..)?

look at bro lokeks signature, consider low maintainances, belt price is almost on par or slightly higher than piaggio but last longer, 24K km change but riders hv tried even longer distance covered.

 

4. are e spare parts readily available? where to get?

Where else? FJT, ever success or chong aik. Now i think sparts parts should be no problem compare 1 yr ago.

 

5. wats e downside for tis bike?

Suspension so so onli, wind screen abit shaky during high speed, no hazard light, no wire mash to protect radiactor, petrol hungry, heavy in weight.

 

6. wats e upside?

reliable machine for light touring, 1 of the best scooter to me in 400cc range.

 

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++

 

1)can the wing use a 160 tire instead of a 150 ?(width)

 

2)can the rider butt rest be removed?

 

3)how many belts r there?in the bike?

 

4)even the 600 use single disc brake for the front?

 

5)it use 2 litre engine oil and some trnsmission oil?

 

6)the rear pillion grip and also mount the box?

 

7)any news newer models coming?

 

8)can e 600 hit 300km on a full tank including reserve?

 

9)can e underseat carry two full face helments?

 

1. yes

2. yes

3. 1

4. yes

5. no

6. dunno wad u asking

7. no

8. no

9. depends

 

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++

 

1) Can a SW cruise at 90-120 without must prob?

 

Ans: Yes,a silverwing can curise at 120km/hr without any problem,in fact its consider a touring scooter.SO 120km/hr or more for this scooter is definitely not a problem to this powerful scooter.

 

2) How is the fuel consumption like?

 

Ans: Fuel consumption is like 18-20km for per liter of petrol use subject to the riders' riding pattern and road conditions.

 

3) Maintenance wise? (how many spark plug, engine oil, belt, others)?

 

Ans: Silverwing only uses two(2) spark plugs(not to worries about the changing of plugs cause the changing of plugs only occur after 20,000km of usage).Engine change is only 2 liters for non oil filter change and 2.2 liters for oil filter change.Normally i change my engine oil after every 2500km interval.Belt changing is superb.one single change of belt can goes up to 50,000km.Again,The changing of belt is subject to riders' riding pattern as well.(i suggest you don't drag your scooter duirng start-up.Accelerate and increase the RPM smoothly to achieve higher mileage belt change.

 

4) Price? 1 hand or 2nd hand (ard 2yr old)

 

Ans: Price for 1st hand inclusive of insurance should cost from $12,500 to $13,500 depending on your age.2nd hand should cost not more than $9000 at the age of 2 years old.

 

5) Insurance?

 

Ans: Insurance denpends on your age.Mine insurance for 2nd party only cost me $295 after 10% No-Claim Discount.Check it outta the insurance from the motorshop for more accurate pricing.We cannot tell you from here.

 

6) Wher can i go to see the real thing or rather to find out more info?

 

Ans: ASPoon at changi and Loois' motor at kaki bukit are the most reputable shop to enquire.Check them outta.

 

7) Given another chance to choose, will u choose SW again?

 

Ans: Once start to ride this bike,i dont even think of trading or selling it away.The riding comfort is great compare to any other scooters around in the market.Believe me,you will fall in love with the scooter once you own it.

 

Hopes it helps much.i urge you to consider getting this scooter cause the reliablity and comfort is great!Spare parts are easy to find as well.Needs any help on spare part,enquire from us,we are delight to help

Edited May 3, 2016 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

K&N Air Filter HA-6002: designed for FSC600 but can fit SW 400cc (FJS, JDM, SWT, GT) but has 1 centre screw thread less. no worries, no impact to performance

costs around $85~$125 include installation & depends on shop/mech.

 

http://www.knfilters.com/images/m/HA-6002.jpg

 

DIY: see pic below

(1) remove lower rear cover: need to unscrew 2 screws from rear

(2) remove left rear cover: lift the seat then remove the 2 retainer screws from top, then gently full the side cover outwards and be careful not to break any support "legs" or loose the clips. common problem at this stage is many SWingers scratched the top part of the cover just below the pillion's handlebar. you may wanna paste musking/scotch tapes to protect that area.

(3) Remove the air filter cover: think there are around 8 screws to remove

(4) Replace air filter: there is a retainer screw

(5) Put everything back in reverse order: the K&N filter has 1 hole less (right at the centre) compared to the stock filter, thus 1 screw will be left unused but no issue.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/AirFilter.jpg?t=1279676319

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/AirFilter.jpg?t=1279676319

 

 

review 1: K&N air filter

when i first installed it, i felt smoother pickup (probably due to smoother or higher airflow (compare to the stock filter). however, FC deteriorated to about 21km/L partly due to heavier wrist (playing with the pickup) and suboptimal airflow for my 80/20 highway/city traveling pattern.

then i adjusted the airscrews by trial-n-error and finally settled down with a 1.75T setting for my airscrews. i'm currently getting slightly over 25km/L on a regular basis for my 80/20 highway/city traveling pattern.

the biggest performance gain is obtained when we go touring. can't exactly tell how much but i refuel less petrol over the same distance traveled compared to SW9000 whose FJS SW400 i believe has the best FC among the group

 

review 2: removing the airflow duct

initial feel was that the bike becomes more responsive during stationary move offs and has better pickup when overtaking, riding in city with lots of start-stops seems to be more pleasant. think there's also a small change in "sound" when throttling, dunno if its vibrations. FC deteriorates a little but hey! no free lunch in this world ya? a little more consumption for a more pleasant city riding sounds fair.

took the bike for touring and there's an issue on FC. the more abundant airflow somehow resulted in FC deteriorating quite a fair bit as compared to when the duct is not removed. this was my conclusion after having rode up n down the NS under 3 different airflow setups; stock filter with duct, K&N with duct, and K&N without duct (haven't try stock filter without duct).

 

recommendation:

removing the airflow duct may be good if you do mostly city riding and dun mind paying a little more fuel for better bike response. for touring, i would personally prefer to have it on as the FC is substantially different. if you're someone who prioritise FC over performance, keep that rubber there.

 

Edited December 15, 2010 by scoobydoo

[Dick Steele]

Gud day SWing Gurus...

 

I have a ride buddy who crashed his SWing 400 a while back. While many of the damage were mostly cosmetic, (aside from his ego), were repairable, the only remaining parts that was not salvageable were the Windshield & Front headlight.

 

My Questions are: Are the Windshield & Front Headlight from an SWing 600 fit a 400?? While the 400 is a much more rare Maxi than the 600, Im hoping to get an accurate feedback from everyone here. The 600 Swing is much easier to source out its 400cc brother.

 

Any help will be appreciated.... Ride safe.

[scoobydoo]

dear Mr Steele

the 400cc & 600cc SW basically use the same chasis (body), chances are the parts are inter-usable.

your friend's situation is different from ours in Singapore, where most of the SW on our roads are FJS400 or JDM400 instead of FSC600. shops here has stopped bringing in 600cc SW for a while.

Edited November 13, 2009 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

technically not technical issue... for easier future reference

checklist when buying a used Silver Wing? http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Transports/bike-038.gif

(revised)

 

General things to look out for (used bike):

for a 2nd hand or used bike, there're many things to lookout for, such as bike's age/condition, odometer mileage-to-age, buying from owner or motortiam, etc.

 

one of the best buys is to buy from people you or your friends know... at least someone know something about the bike.

 

basically, i would check...

(p/s: this is not a exhaustive list)

 

body (engine not started):

~ 1st amongst all would have to be physical condition of bike itself.

while the body may not be in pristine condition, it must be in reasonably good condition unless price is discounted sufficiently to cover the necessary restoration. scratches ok, broken or cannot align or mount properly no no. bear in mind that broken body parts may need to be replaced and could add up to quite an amount.

~ occasionally, we see a newly "sprayed" SW, these are the bikes we need to be extra careful. common question now is why need to respray? something wrong with original? personally, i'ld go for bikes with original paintwork, at least i can see what and where the "damages" are instead of all "covered up".

~ always ask seller if bike has been in an accident; usually won't get truth but you'll never know if the seller is a honest soul... no harm asking

~ check that windshield and all tupperwares are there and are in good conditions, e.g. no cracks, "abrasion wounds", loose fittings (probably due to broken internal retainers), all adjoining sections flush nicely, etc. negotiate for lower price if repairs are required, e.g. patch n respray, replace, etc. tupperware replacement for all bikes aren't cheap.

~ check for abrasion marks due to skids or stationary drops; brake levels, edge of side mirrors, bar-ends, etc.

~ check that no crack exists at head/rear/signal light assemblies; a headlight assembly can cost >$500 before discount

~ check that left glove and underseat compartments can be easily/properly locked n unlocked with key provided

~ check the left/right pillion foot-peg assemblies are in good condition

~ if box included, check condition of box & mount on tailfin

~ check condition of seat cover; common to have “cat claws” and may need rewrap if serious

~ put front wheel at front-n-back position then check handlebar position for alignment (a rough estimate since cannot test ride)

~ check radiator condition; no major dents/depressions in the cooling vanes

~ check exhaust cover for abrasion (sure to have if bike dropped on right side unless changed or stickered up)

~ some pp “finger” the exhaust “holes” to see if the holes are “wet” (should be carbon only dry); oily residues is usually associated with exhausts with high eo content, i.e. eo may be leaking into chamber n burnt together with fuel, possible caused by worn piston rings

~ check condition of front forks; no rust on chrome parts, no leaking at seals, no abrasions or dents (small scratches are normal), etc.

~ some pp test front fork springs by “rocking” the bike

~ check that both wheels (aka rims) are in good condition, no scuffing or dents, etc.

~ check age and condition (e.g. threads, cracks, etc.) of tyres

~ check condition of brake assembly, see if there’re heavy dirt clots the brake callipers (signs of poor maintenance)

~ check thickness of brake pads (front, rear & hand)

~ as most sellers will not permit test rides, try pushing the bike around and see if there is any abnormal sound (e.g. bearing damage, brake disk problem, etc.) or if bike tends to drift in certain direction (e.g. loose/worn steering cone, bad alignment, etc)

~ check for bike alignment if you know how

 

machine (rider standard nia, not mech standard hor):

~ check odometer of the bike for total mileage; while low is generally good, "too" low (e.g. compared to bikes age n wear conditions) may be an indication that the meter assemble has been changed for some reasons

~ check right side engine cover for engine oil leaks (common problem if not sealed properly or worn liow); use a tissue paper and swipe the side/bottom of the joint parts

~ open the eo dipstick and check whether is dirty, some pp smell the eo for “bad odour”

~ check for condition of battery and charging system (needs a voltmeter)

~ start bike on main-stand, see if bike starts up spontaneously or needs long cranking

~ check that meters do not reset again (a sign that batt needs to be replaced) upon cranking

~ check for damages at left & right throttle assembly; test all the buttons/switches (emergency stop, lights and sound)

~ rev reasonably and check for any abnormal vibrations or wobbling at the rear wheel/tyre when it spins

~ lift the seat and listen for abnormal sound (engine is just below seat), note that a faint consistent "tik tik tik" sound from the valves is normal

~ seat still lifted, check if there's any strong petrol smell when engine is stopped (heard may be due to overflow)

~ check exhaust for any abnormal sound (too loud or vibrations) when engine running

~ if idle too high or too low, ask seller to adjust to about 1.2k rpm and see if rpm can stays smoothly at that level reasonably. if rmp runs up and down by a lot, something is wrong.

~ listen to abnormal sound from rear gear assembly (center of rear wheel) when engine at idling, gently turn wheel in reverse direction and listen again; bearings or gears may be worn if got “garak garak” sound

~ revving a bit and release throttle, listen to abnormal sound inside transmission cover (variator and clutch area) when engine idling

~ don’t think seller will allow us to check spark plugs

~ take notes and photos if possible as proof of original condition; dishonest sellers may change some parts or dekit (e.g. voltmeters, barends, VS, etc.) to minimise loss

~ check that bike is in same condition as previously seen during next meetup... voice out immediately if found things are different or new damages

 

administrative (before n collecting bike):

~ find out when and what has been changed or repaired (as a rough guide), with receipts would be best but many of us don't bother to keep receipts cos our regular mech is the proof... haahaahaa

~ how many previous owners; generally, many changes is commonly associated with higher risk

~ ask if any outstanding traffic offences... for info only becos offences before you own the bike is not your problem

~ ask if seller is registered owner (see documentation if possible) or only a sub-rider under carry on installment schemes (they're not legal owners); to prevent disagreements in future

~ obtain "black-n-white" for all the agreed items on the bike, e.g. new paintwork, change tyres, repair damaged parts, etc. this is to prevent seller claiming otherwise. take photos as proof.

~ must obtain "black-n-white" (aka receipt) if making downpayment to reserve/book the bike; receipts (hand written or printed) from seller must indicate clearly his/her particulars such as NRIC/passport nos., address, contact nos., effective dates, bike registration nos., signature of seller, etc. if buy from motortiam, should get a signed official receipt

~ when collecting, check all paperworks are available; e.g. transfer papers, insurance, inspection cert, "street legal" cert (if fitted with aftermarket stuffs), etc.

~ if on loan, get a photocopy of "log card" to facilitate application for seasons parking n many other purposes (e.g. riding into thailand)

~ check when road tax expires, when due for inspection (if >3 yrs old)

~ get all keys available (including box if fitted) n test that all are programmed to start engine

~ ask for owners manual (if have)

~ ask for tools set (hopefully can get full set, otherwise BYO)

 

safety checks before riding off:

~ check all lights working (head/high, rear, signals, brakes)

~ test horn, test brakes

~ check petrol (enough to get to a kiosk), eo level, brake fluid levels

~ check engine oil and coolant level

~ make sure tires have sufficient pressure

 

Post Purchase:

now that the bike is ours, the next most important thing is to make sure that the bike is properly maintained for safety and performance.

~ strip and clean the transmission assemblies… variator and clutch

~ check condition of belt, rollers and u-clips, change if necessary

~ check condition of clutch pegs and clutch bell, change if necessary

~ clean or change the air-filter

~ depending on age of bike, may not need to change the flush/change coolant unless you want "special stuffs" (heard the stock coolant is very good and can last a 2-3 years no issue)

~ change engine oil, eo filter and final drive oil… should change regardless of what the seller says

~ check/change spark plugs

~ check tires condition and age (i'ld change when near 3yrs old even if threads are good)

~ check wheel alignments

~ check/pump tyre pressure

~ check/test brakes, including pads (front, rear & hand)

~ check or change brake oil

~ check battery age and voltage (change or charge as necessary)

~ check fork seals n test their dampening (consider if want to change for oil or spring if very loose)

~ set the desired idle rpm

~ tune air-screw synchronisation & air-fuel mixture

~ run fuel system cleaning program; e.g. use Caltex platinum or Shell V-power or injector cleaners like FP60, STP, etc.

~ check all lights are working; headlights (normal/high), signals (left/right & front/rear), brakes, etc.

~ firm/tighten all screws

~ any others as necessary

 

after those are done, then i'll start considering the add-ons and enhancements such as...

~ loud electric horn (strongly recommended)

~ power abusers, voltage stabilisers, revtec, etc

~ hazard lights

~ "blink-blinks"... hahahaha

~ etc, etc, etc

 

Welcome to the Club

Edited October 21, 2014 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

technically not technical issue... for easier future reference

 

"so how much is this bike?", you asked.

the motortiam fella asks for your age, check a few tables and then says "on-the-road $17K".

do you know what exactly you are paying for or going to be paying for?

 

"On-the-Road" means?

OTR price is a very loosely used term with various versions of compositions. basically, it means the price to pay in order to take ownership of the purchased unit and operate it on the road, in a condition that meets both roadworthy and legal requirements.

to most, it is the all inclusive price to pay (not including interests when loans are involved). nevertheless, some shops's OTR price excludes IU which is not mandantory to have while riding on the road.

basically, the OTR price should cover the following:

+ machine price

+ COE (no GST is payable on COE)

+ LTA registration fees

+ 6 months road tax *

+ 1 year insurance **

+ IU & installation ***

+ admin fees (some shops waive)

+ GST ****

+ any optional goodies (if any)

 

notes:

* standard for new registration bikes (shops claim this is LTA regulation)

** must confirm wit shop which is given; 3rd party fire & theft or only 3rd party

(strongly recommend "upgrade" to 1st party)

*** most shops quote inclusive, but some shops exclude

**** COE, registration fee and road tax are NOT subject to GST

if loan is involved:

+ min./max. loan amount available

+ interest rate p.a.

+ total interest payable over the loan period

+ loan agreement & processing fees

+ monthly installments

+ early payment fees/penalty

 

 

Other Considerations

 

~ which year is bike manufactured?

old stock bikes are usually priced lower than new shipments. e.g. at same shop, i was quoted $12.7k for a 08 model but only $11.5k if i take a 06 stock.

 

~ what insurance is given? age already factored in?

with insurance premiums sky-rocketing, most shops will adjust quotes up when rider is young and some shops give only 3P instead of 3PFT (aka 2nd party). buyer top up extra if want 3PFT, probably a few hundreds.

my personal recommendation is to get/"upgrade" to comprehensive insurance as difference is not a lot; it is worth the extra cos parts of the SW can be rather costly (e.g. fairings, headlight unit, etc).

 

~ any attached conditions?

most if not all shops quote "with-loan" prices, i.e. must take min. loan at x% interest. e.g. one shop quoted me "no-loan" price = OTR price + $500

 

 

do you think if you buy full cash from BS, the price will be better than anywhere else, since it's no difference from them selling to bike shops?

 

ahh... uncle got a very very good point

 

BS's price remains the same with or without loan, and comes with comprehensive insurance.

from a recent quote, OTR SWT400 prices (incl. GST) for rider aged >40 are ~$18.4k for standard model and ~$19.6k with ABS.

 

like uncle suggested, we should get a quote from BS based on the buyer's profile, then compare apple to apple if buying "cash-n-take". prices for different aged riders are different due to different insurance costs.

 

shops buy from BS at special dealer prices, prices we don't and won't get to know. it all depends on how much the dealers want for their margin (thus profit). some markup higher some lower, but many (of not most) ask for higher prices for "cash-n-take" deals; at least Looi's and Bike production does that.

so if prices work out to the same or similar, then other considerations comes into play, like dealers' "sweeteners", after-sales, "friendship" and not forgetting availability of "trade-in" arrangements. BS don't take trade-ins

Edited February 20, 2012 by scoobydoo

[Dick Steele]

dear Mr Steele

the 400cc & 600cc SW basically use the same chasis (body), chances are the parts are inter-usable.

your friend's situation is different from ours in Singapore, where most of the SW on our roads are FJS400 or JDM400 instead of FSC600. shops here has stopped bringing in 600cc SW for a while.

 

btw, its good to keep this thread for "technical" discussions. we have another thread where most SWingers visit and talk about almost anything. more eyes will see your questions there and you should get some replies fairly quickly... thanks bro

 

My bad... Sorry, i figure that since it was a body related matter i thought i would be more fitting on this forum than on the other wherein they more often discuss rides & such. Nevertheless, i really appreciate the rapid response & assistance. More power & Ride safe....

[scoobydoo]

no worries bro, you've got a point too... there's no clear line for this thread anyway.

we just try to keep this thread less congested so that people can find the technical and reference materials easily (especially for new or prospective SWingers) without having to search read through hundreds of pages in the main thread

 

maybe it shouldn't be called "Technical Corner"... "Reference Corner" (sounds like a library ) could be more appropriate

[Dick Steele]

Thankx again. I any case. Do you have info already on the new SWing GT 400 & 600 ABS that just came out??

[scoobydoo]

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85810&d=1230639038

some SWingers have asked me about this little black box i have on my left handlebar... its a DIY and here's how to get it done

 

materials required:

a) bought from sim lim tower level 3

~ 3x rocker switches ($1 ea)

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85919&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1230703859

switch must have 3 legs if you want to use it for hazard lights; those with lights look good but are much bigger in size

 

~ 1x black plactic case ($1.10) http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85918&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1230703846

size must fit the size/number of switches desired

 

~ heat wrap, optional for nicer looks (have on hand)http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/Pics/004.gif

 

~ electrical wires of desired length & 3 screws (have on hand)

 

~ silicone glue, optional for some water-proofing (on hand)

 

b) bought from neighbourhood hardware shop

~ aluminium L-bar; those use for edges of furnitures (15cm for

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85917&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1230703838 ... http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85920&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1230703934 ... http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85922&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1230704533

simple design to fabricate the bracket using the L-bar

 

tools required:

~ small drill

~ small hack saw or cutter to cut aluminium L-bar to size

~ small file to size a rectangular hole on plastic case to fit the switches

~ soldering iron & self-flux solder to solder wires to switch "legs"

 

steps:

1a. drill a small hole (just big ebough for small file to access) at location to place centre switch (depends on how many switches you want)

1b. file hole to rectangular shape exactly sized to fit in the small switch firmly

1c. push switch into prepared hole (if hole is of right size, switch will sit in firmly)

2a. repeat steps 1 for remaining switches

2b. push all switches into prepared hole

2c. optional: apply some silicone glue at gaps or where desired

3a. solder the wires to the switch legs accordingly

3b. optional: shrink wrap the wires for looks & tidyness

3c. cut a small recess at side of box just enought to allow wires to come out

4a. place box onto L-bar to get dimension and draw lines to aid cutting

4b. remove box and cut L-bar as required (refer to above drawings)

4c. drill the necessary holes, 5 in total (1 for mounting to handlebar, 3 for screws to hold box, 1 at bottom to drain water)

4d. bend the 2 side "gutters" that will hold the box by the side (see pic)

4e. make a mark on box through side holes, drill holes on box for screws

4f. optional: spray mount to black if desired

5a. place and screw box onto mount and its done

 

final product... [/url]http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85809&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1230639030 & http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85923&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1230704543

 

happy DIYing

Edited June 16, 2011 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

The SW's transmission assembly comprised of:

* Drive face/assembly

* Driven (clutch) face/assembly

* Final drive (gears) assembly

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SW4_transmission.jpg?t=1247116082

 

 

Clutch Outer (aka Bell) & Drive Shaft

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Dr_Pulley/4eea473a.jpg

 

Clutch Outer (aka Bell)

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Dr_Pulley/e4b2b58c.jpg

 

Clutch Pegs & Clutch Springs (mounted)

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Miscellaneous/trasmissione_swt_04_SWIT.jpg

 

Removing the Torque Spring

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Dr_Pulley/59580a90.jpg

 

Torque Spring (removed)

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Dr_Pulley/1d2cc982.jpg

 

Drive-Plate

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Dr_Pulley/6c3cd744.jpg

 

 

interestingly, not all SW comes with the clutch side plate...

dunno why honda removed it from the assembly in later years, or was it only available for FSC 600.

 

Manual says have this side plate at the clutch shoes but mine don't have. Anyone can verify have or not?

 

This is actually a superceded part 22361-MCT-000 used in 2003 to 2004 models. Now is replaced by 5 trust washers. I think main reason is cost as it seems to perform better logically by holding the pins in place. Dr Pulley Hit Clutch and Malossi Fly/Delta Clutch have something similar also. Gotta try it!

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Dr_Pulley/5f25118d.jpg

 

scoobydoo's posting says have:

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Miscellaneous/SW4_transmission.jpg

 

SW9000's posting on FJS400D7 don't have:

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Miscellaneous/Transmission_sw400.jpg

 

SW9000's posting on SWT-400 don't have:

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Miscellaneous/Transmission_sw-T400.jpg

 

 

acknowledgements:

photos contributed by fellow SWinger uncle, silverwing.it and other internet sources.

Edited June 4, 2012 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

TYRES & HYDROPLANING

 

The Honda Silver Wing Scooter FJS/JDM/SWT/GT 400cc/600cc uses tyres with specs:

• Front 120/80 14M/C 58S
  
• Rear 150/70 13M/C 64S
  

Refer to post #21 “Tyre Markings” for what those numbers mean.

 

Commonly used tyres for the Honda Silver Wing scooter are:

• Pirelli Diablo Scooter
  http://www.pirelli.com/tyre/ww/en/motorcycle/sheet/diablo_scooter.html
  
• Metzeler Feelfree (Feelfree Wintec not available in Singapore)
  http://www.metzelermoto.com/web/catalog/moto/moto_catalogo_schedaDescription.page?uri=/metzeler/en_IT/browser/xml/catalog/moto/Scooter_Feelfree.xml&vehicleType=MOTO&menu_item=/products/catalog/scooter
  
• Bridgestone Hoop BS03 Pro (Front) and BS02Pro (Rear) … stock tyres in US
  http://www.bridgestone.com.sg/product_motor_SCT_B03PRO.html
  http://www.bridgestone.com.sg/product_motor_SCT_B02PRO.html
  
• Michelin Pilot Sport SC
  http://motorcycle.michelin.asia/twproduct/findProduct/moreProduct/241
  
• IRC SS-530 … stock tyres for FJS during mid 2000s
  My 2006 manufactured FJS400 came with a set of IRC tyres.
  http://www.irc-tire.com/mce/tires/ss-530.html
  

Among them, the Pirelli Diablo Scooter is the most popular among our group of SW kakis. This is mainly due to its competitive pricing (about $175 a pair including installation) and good balance of traction vs. durability. Note that softer compound tyres provide better traction but wear out at faster rates, thus a trade-off exists.

 

 

To understand more about the tyres we use, lets look at the different types/construction of tyres.

 

Tyre Construction

 

Radial

Radial tyre construction utilizes body ply cords extending from the beads and across the tread so that the cords are laid at approximately right angles to the center-line of the tread, and parallel to each other, as well as stabilizer belts directly beneath the tread. The belts may be cord or steel. The advantages of this construction include longer tread life, better steering control, and lower rolling resistance. Disadvantages of the radial tyre include a harder ride at low speeds on rough roads and in the context of off-roading, decreased "self-cleaning" ability and lower grip ability at low speeds.

 

Radial tyres are probably the most popular construction for tyres nowadays; their advantages have obviously outweighed the disadvantages.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/TyreRadial.jpg

 

Bias

Bias tyre (or cross ply) construction utilizes body ply cords that extend diagonally from bead to bead, usually at angles in the range of 30 to 40 degrees, with successive plies laid at opposing angles forming a crisscross pattern to which the tread is applied. The design allows the entire tyre body to flex easily, providing the main advantage of this construction, a smooth ride on rough surfaces. This cushioning characteristic also causes the major disadvantages of a bias tyre: increased rolling resistance and less control and traction at higher speeds.

 

Belted bias

A belted bias tyre starts with two or more bias-plies to which stabilizer belts are bonded directly beneath the tread. This construction provides smoother ride that is similar to the bias tyre, while lessening rolling resistance because the belts increase tread stiffness. The plies and belts are at different angles, which improves performance compared to non-belted bias tyres. The belts may be cord or steel.

 

Solid

Many tyres used in industrial and commercial applications are non-pneumatic, and are manufactured from solid rubber and plastic compounds via molding operations. Solid tyres include those used for lawn mowers, skateboards, golf carts, scooters, and many types of light industrial vehicles, carts, and trailers. One of the most common applications for solid tyres is for material handling equipment (forklifts). Such tyres are installed by means of a hydraulic tyre press.

 

Semi-pneumatic

Semi-pneumatic tyres have a hollow center, but they are not pressurized. They are light-weight, low-cost, puncture proof, and provide cushioning. These tyres often come as a complete assembly with the wheel and even integral ball bearings. They are used on lawn mowers, wheelchairs, and wheelbarrows. They can also be rugged, typically used in industrial applications, and are designed to not pull off their rim under use.

Tyres that are hollow but are not pressurized have also been designed for automotive use, such as the Tweel (a portmanteau of tyre and wheel), which is an experimental tyre design being developed at Michelin. The outer casing is rubber as in ordinary radial tyres, but the interior has special compressible polyurethane springs to contribute to a comfortable ride. Besides the impossibility of going flat, the tyres are intended to combine the comfort offered by higher-profile tyres (with tall sidewalls) with the resistance to cornering forces offered by low profile tyres. They have not yet been delivered for broad market use.

 

 

Typical Tyre Components

 

The tyre is an assembly of numerous components that are built up on a drum and then cured under heat and pressure. Heat facilitates a polymerization reaction that cross-links rubber monomers to create long elastic molecules. These polymers create the elastic quality that permits the tyre to be compressed in the area where the tyre contacts the road surface and spring back to its original shape under high-frequency cycles.

 

To understand more about the tyre, lets look at its parts/components:

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/TyreParts.jpg

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Tyreelements.jpg

 

Tread

 

The word tread is often used incorrectly to referred to the pattern of grooves cut into the rubber/compound. Those grooves are actually tread pattern (or simply pattern).

 

The tread is the thick rubber or rubber/composite that surrounds the tyre carcass and which comes in contact with the road surface, or like what some may say, grips the road. Treads are often designed to meet specific product marketing positions. Contrary to what many people have understood, it is that part which determines the traction performance of a tyre, not the groves or pattern design.

 

Tread compounds include additives to impart wear resistance and traction in addition to environmental resistance. Tread compound development is an exercise in compromise, a trade-off between traction performance and durability. Generally, hard compounds have long wear characteristics but poor traction whereas soft compounds have good traction but poor wear characteristics.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/TyreDiabloScooter.jpg

 

Tread Pattern

 

Tread pattern are the grooves cut into the tread. Tread patterns are characterized by the geometrical shape of the grooves, lugs, voids and sipes. Grooves (patterns) run circumferentially around the tyre, and are needed to channel away water to prevent hydroplaning. Lugs are that portion of the tread design that contacts the road surface. Voids are spaces between lugs that allow the lugs to flex and evacuate water. Tread patterns feature non-symmetrical (or non-uniform) lug sizes circumferentially in order to minimize noise levels at discrete frequencies. Sipes are valleys cut across the tyre, usually perpendicular to the grooves, which allow the water from the grooves to escape to the sides in an effort to prevent hydroplaning.

 

Rain Groove

 

The rain groove is a design element of the tread pattern specifically arranged to channel water away from the footprint. Many high performance passenger tyres feature rain grooves that are angled from the center toward the sides of the tyre. Some tyre manufacturers claim that their tread pattern is designed to actively pump water out from under the tyre by the action of the tread flexing.

 

Tread lug

 

Tread lugs provide the contact surface necessary to provide traction. As the tread lug enters the road contact area, or footprint, it is compressed. As it rotates through the footprint it is deformed circumferentially. As it exits the footprint, it recovers to its original shape.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Tyresoff-road.jpg

 

Tread void

 

Tread voids provide space for the lug to flex and deform as it enters and exits the footprint. Voids also provide channels for rainwater, mud, and snow to be channelled away from the footprint. The void ratio is the void area of the tyre divided by the entire tread area. Low void areas have high contact area and therefore higher traction on clean, dry pavement. tyres with high void areas are usually used in off-road situations as compared to those with low void areas.

 

Sidewall

 

The sidewall is that part of the tyre that bridges between the tread and bead. The sidewall is largely rubber but reinforced with fabric or steel cords that provide for strength and flexibility. Sidewall transmits the torque applied by the drive axle to the tread in order to create traction. In conjunction with air inflation, it also supports the load of the vehicle.

 

Sidewalls are usually added with additives to give the sides good abrasion resistance and environmental resistance. Additives used in sidewall compounds include antioxidants and antiozonants. Sidewalls are molded with manufacturer-specific detail, government mandated warning labels, and other consumer information, and sometimes decorative ornamentation, like whitewalls.

 

Shoulder

 

The shoulder is that part of the tyre at the edge of the tread as it makes transition to the sidewall.

 

Inner liner

 

The inner liner is an extruded halobutyl rubber sheet compounded with additives that result in low air permeability. The inner liner assures that the tyre will hold high-pressure air inside, without the air gradually diffusing through the rubber structure.

 

Body ply

 

The body ply is a calendered sheet consisting of one layer of rubber, one layer of reinforcing fabric, and a second layer of rubber. The earliest textile used was cotton; later materials include rayon, nylon, polyester, and Kevlar. Passenger tyres typically have one or two body plies. Body plies give the tyre structure strength. Truck tyres, off-road tyres, and aircraft tyres have progressively more plies. The fabric cords are highly flexible but relatively inelastic.

 

Ply

 

Plies are layers of relatively inextensible cords embedded in the rubber to hold its shape by preventing the rubber from stretching in response to the internal pressure. The orientations of the plies plays a large role in the performance of the tyre and is one of the main ways that tyres are categorized.

 

Beads

 

Beads are bands of high tensile-strength steel wire encased in a rubber compound. Bead wire is coated with special alloys of bronze or brass. Coatings protect the steel from corrosion. Copper in the alloy and sulphur in the rubber cross-link to produce copper sulphide, which improves bonding of the bead to the rubber. Beads are inflexible and inelastic, and provide the mechanical strength to fit the tyre to the wheel. Bead rubber includes additives to maximize strength and toughness.

 

The bead is that part of the tyre that contacts the rim on the wheel. The bead is typically reinforced with steel wire and compounded of high strength, low flexibility rubber. The bead seats tightly against the two rims on the wheel to ensure that a tubeless tyre holds air without leakage. The bead fit is tight to ensure the tyre does not shift circumferentially as the wheel rotates. The width of the rim in relationship to the tyre is a factor in the handling characteristics of an automobile, because the rim supports the tyre's profile.

 

Apex

 

The apex is a triangular extruded profile that mates against the bead. The apex provides a cushion between the rigid bead and the flexible inner liner and body ply assembly. Alternatively called "filler" (as in the diagram above).

 

Belt package

 

Belts are calendered sheets consisting of a layer of rubber, a layer of closely spaced steel cords, and a second layer of rubber. The steel cords are oriented radially in radial tyre construction, and at opposing angles in bias tyre construction. Belts give the tyre strength and dent resistance while allowing it to remain flexible. Passenger tyres are usually made with two or three belts.

 

Cushion gum

 

Many higher-performing tyres include an extruded component between the belt package and the tread to isolate the tread from mechanical wear from the steel belts.

 

Other components

 

Tyre construction methods vary somewhat in the number and type of components, as well as the compound formulations for each component, according to the tyre use and price point. tyre makers continuously introduce new materials and construction methods in order to achieve higher performance at lower cost.

 

 

More About Motorcycle Tyres

 

Contact Patch

 

Unlike tread, contact patch is the portion of tread that is in actual contact with the road surface, at any one time. Also call “footprint”, it is the only connection between the road and the vehicle. The size and shape of the contact patch as well as the pressure distribution within the contact patch are important to the ride qualities and handling characteristics of the motorcycle. Because pneumatic tyres are flexible, the contact patch is different when the vehicle is in motion from when it is static. Generally, the size, shape, and pressure distribution are dependent on many factors, the most important of which are load on the tyre and inflation pressure:

• The larger the load on the tyre, the larger the contact patch.
  
• The larger the inflation pressure, the smaller the contact patch.
  

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Tyrefootprint.jpg

 

It is for this reason that maintaining a suitable tyre pressure for different riding setups is important, for handling, wear and most importantly safety.

• Manufacturers recommended higher inflation pressure when carrying pillion so as to prevent excessive/uneven tread wear (suboptimal contact patch), poor handling and poor fuel efficiency relating to under-inflated tyres.
  
• When tyres are over-inflated (some riders increase pressure for better fuel economy), uneven tread wear may occur and tyres experience lower traction as contact patch are reduced, depending on extent of over-inflation.
  

Please refer to Owners Manual...

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Tyrepressure.jpg

 

Different tyres for Different Purposes

 

No one tyres is suitable for all conditions. There are various multi or dual-purpose tyres available in the market nowadays. Generally, the performance or suitability of a tyre for specific use is dependent on factors such as:

• Tread … determines the amount of compound in contact with the surface; more contact means more grip.
  
• Tread pattern … required for water dispersion and prevent hydroplaning.
  
• Compound … softer compounds generally provides better grips, but wear off at higher rates compared to harder ones.
  

High performance track tyres have no void/pattern (or little void ratios) to provide maximum rubber in contact with the road for higher traction, and may be compounded with softer rubber that provides better traction, but wears quickly. Off road tyres are designed with higher void ratios to channel away rain and mud, while providing better gripping performance. Specialized tyres will always work better than general/all purpose/all weather tyres when being used in the conditions the specialized tyres are designed for.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/TyreCategories.jpg

 

Slick/Track Tyres

 

A slick tyre (also known as a track/racing) is a type of tyre that has no tread pattern, used mostly in auto racing. By eliminating any grooves cut into the tread, such tyres provide the largest possible contact patch to the road, and maximize traction for any given tyre dimension. Slick tyres are used on road/track racing, where steering and braking require maximum traction from each wheel, but are typically used on only the driven (powered) wheels in drag racing, where the only concern is maximum traction to put power to the ground. They are used in racing where competitors can choose different tyres based on the weather conditions.

 

Slick tyres are not suitable for use on common road vehicles, which must be able to operate in all weather conditions. They have far less traction than grooved tyres under wet conditions due to aquaplaning, having water trapped between the tyre contact area and the road surface. Grooved tyres are designed to remove water from the contact area through the grooves, thereby maintaining traction in wet conditions.

 

Street/Scooter Tyres

 

The tread pattern or grooves in the tyre compound are designed to allow water to be expelled from beneath the tyre and prevent hydroplaning. The proportion of rubber to air space on the road surface directly affects its traction. Design of tyre tread has an impact upon noise generated, especially at freeway speeds. Generally there is a tradeoff of tread friction capability. Deeper patterns often enhance safety, but simpler designs are less costly and produces less noise on the run. Less grooves provide better traction in the dry but less effective when on wet surfaces.

 

These tyres often include wear limit indicators in the form of small raised bridges within the grooves. When the tread is worn down enough that the limit indicators make contact with the road, the tyre is deemed to be at the end of its service life.

 

Off-Road/Mountain Bike Tyres

Often comes in the form of studded tyres, off-road tyres used in mud or dirt feature individual knob patterns to allow the tyre to bite into the surface and lever the sides of the tread to get a better grip. Given the smaller contact patch, these tyres tend to wear quickly when used on asphalt (or bitumen roads). Some tyres feature an unbroken tread pattern that runs along its center. This feature provides better traction and lower noise on asphalt at high tyre pressure, but retains the ability to provide grip on a soft or loose surface- lower tyre pressure or soft ground will cause the side lugs to come into contact with the surface.

 

 

HYDROPLANING

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Hydroplaningpic.jpg

 

Hydroplaning (also called aquaplaning) by the tyre occurs when a layer of water builds between the rubber tyres of the vehicle and the road surface, lifting the tyre off the ground. This leads to loss of traction, thus preventing the vehicle from responding to control inputs such as steering, braking or accelerating. If it occurs on both wheels, the motorcycle becomes an uncontrolled sled.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Hydroplaningvehicles.jpg

 

The tread pattern (and rain grooves) of a rubber tyre are designed to disperse water from beneath the tyre, providing continuity of traction even in wet conditions. Hydroplaning occurs when a tyre encounters more water than it can dissipate. When that happens, water pressure in front of the wheel forces a wedge of water under the leading edge of the tyre, causing it to lift off from the road. The tyre then skates on a sheet of water with little, if any, direct road contact, resulting in loss of control.

 

If unlucky, the motorcycle loses directional control and slide until it either:

• collides with an obstacle, or
  
• looses all momentum due to friction from scraping the ground.
  

If lucky, it slows down sufficiently till one or more tyres regain traction with the road again, and hopefully the rider could maintain the motorcycle upright without falling.

 

The risk of hydroplaning increases with the depth of standing water (puddles or minor flooding) on the road and the sensitivity of a vehicle to that water depth.

Some factors that increases risk are:

• Unsafe handling on wet grounds: high speed, rapid acceleration, hard braking (especially on the turn), and acute steering/banking.
  
• Inappropriate type of tyre: insufficient tread pattern or groves to disperse water.
  
• Worn tyres: lack of tread pattern or groove depth to disperse water sufficiently.
  
• Under-inflation: can cause a tyre to deflect inward, raising the tyre center and preventing the tread from clearing water.
  
• Tyres with small diameter and wide width: due to smaller contact patch (less traction) and wider surface “pushing” water; longer (tyres bigger diameter) and thinner (slimmer tyres) contact patch aids in the tyre “cutting” through the water patches.
  
• Weight (motorcycle & rider/s): more weight on a properly inflated tyre lengthens the contact patch, improving its aspect ratio and traction. However, weight can increase risk if tyres are underinflated.
  

Basically…

Suitable and properly conditioned tyres must be used at all times, especially on wet floor. Motorcycles benefit from narrow tyres with round, canoe-shaped contact patches. Narrow tyres are less vulnerable to hydroplaning because vehicle weight is distributed over a smaller slimmer area, and rounded/wider tyres more likely to push water. These advantages diminish on lighter motorcycles with naturally wide tyres, like those in the super-sport class. Furthermore, wet conditions reduce the lateral force that any tyre can accommodate before the tyres loose traction and start sliding. Unlike a slide on a four-wheeled car, the same slide on a motorcycle usually cause a crash or rider to fall. Thus, despite the relative lack of hydroplaning danger in wet conditions (compared to cars), motorcycle riders must be even more cautious because overall traction is reduced by wet roadways.

 

Recommended Response When Hydroplaning

 

It is most unfortunate that when a motorcycle hydroplanes while at a turn, it usually skids out of control and rider falls as a result. Unlike cars where the driver could execute “counter steer” techniques (driver steers in the direction of the skid until the rear tyres gain traction and then rapidly steer in the other direction to straighten the car), a motorcycle usually looses its balance in the event of a similar skid.

 

To recover from hydroplaning while travelling in a relatively straight line, the rider should:

• refrain from steering handlebar at an angle and try to keep straight (along direction of movement) so as to keep centre of gravity as much to centre as possible to prevent falling/skidding sideways,
  
• refrain from harder braking as this increases risk of wheels locking since affected tyre has lost traction with ground,
  
• gently ease the throttle while attempting as best to stay upright/balanced on the 2-wheeled motorcycle (unlike cars with 4 wheels).
  

Basically, slow the motorcycle gradually and let tyres regain traction on their own while trying to avoid falling.

 

If braking is unavoidable, the rider should “tap-n-release” the brakes (repeatedly) very gently to slow the motorcycle down gradually until hydroplaning stops. During hydroplaning, the affected tyre is “lifted” off the ground (no traction) and “harder” braking is likely cause wheel lock, further increasing risk of skidding out of control.

 

Most Important Response = Prevention

 

The best strategy is to adopt defensive driving techniques and avoid contributors to hydroplaning. Selecting appropriate tyres for riding conditions/environment, unworn tyres, proper inflation pressure, safely avoid riding over puddles/standing water wherever possible, reduce to safe speeds, etc.

 

 

 

Acknowledgement:

Information were compiled from various websites such as wikipedia, tyre manufacturer's websites, etc.

Edited October 12, 2011 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

First 10 Enhancements ... basic stuffs

 

the beauty of SW is that its a pretty complete maxi-scoot, with a few minor flaws that could be overcome with after-market parts no bike is 100% some SWingers kept their bikes stock all they way.

 

but if you really want to make the good bike even better or more comfortable by spending a little of year-end your bonus, here's 10 "not so expensive" enhancements that could potentially give immediate results (IMHO):

 

1) make sure they hear you

the first i will always recommend is to fit a loud horn, eg. stebel, hella electric horn (air-horns are not approved by lta), costs about $40 (including installation). can also buy horn (about $20) and then DIY. most drivers drive with windows wound up (enjoy air-con mah) and stereo playing. the stock horn is sometimes like mosquito buzzing and hardly noticeable. my stebel magnum 2 has saved my ass many times from drivers who refuse or "forget" to check blind spots.

if they can't see you, make sure they can hear you!

btw, electric horns are LTA friendly, air-horns are not.

 

2) better handling

change front fork springs to hyperpro, costs around $300 with installation & oil. this will improve handling by a lot as the SW's stock springs are pretty soft to "kup coner" comfortably.

 

3) protect the fork seal

at the same time when changing fork springs, add fork seal protector.

 

4) more efficient combustion

change to denso IUH-24 or IUH-24D irridium spark plugs, costs

 

5) stabilise handlebar

change to heavy handle-bar balancer, costs about $35 a pair. heavier balancers help reduce the vibrations on the handlebar, giving better comfort.

 

6) stabilise electricals

can consider adding power abuser 2, or raizin voltage stabiliser or revtec plus grounding. such products claim to improve throttle response, pickup, FC, etc. but they basically work to stabilise the electrical supply. these are very controversial items coz many believes while many don't. personally, i've got PA2 in my SW and raizin in my car. wouldn't call myself a believer but try try lor... whahahaha. i can't really agree with the science behind these products but my butt dyno did felt some difference.

 

7) enhance airflow

change to K&N air filter, about $130 include installation. better airflow helps combustion and thus response. proven to give better FC at higher end, especially when touring.

 

8) add switches for hazard & main head light

costs about $45~$50+ at motorshops (switch and installation included). the hazard light is a very useful and safety function especially when we need to stop by the roadside to answer a call or change into rain gears, for touring and/or riding in the rain.

the headlight switch is to allows rider to off the main beam when desired or necessary, e.g. trying to start engine when battery is weak, warming up bike at MSCP with headlights off to avoid shining into neighbors house, etc.

 

9) top-box for storage

although the SW comes with a generous underseat storage compartment, it is usually not sufficient if you're those that carry lots of stuffs everywhere you go, e.g. rain gears, tools, slippers, spare helmets, etc. furthermore, the underseat compartment is usually warm after some riding and storing the helmets there may not be quite desirable to some. if a top-box wasn't part of the sales deal, it is highly recommended to get one. costs from around $120 (givi simply E450 basic matt) to >$500 (h&p). can add a backrest onto top-box for pillion's comfort, costs about $45 to customise one at Eugene's or can get the ready-made piaggio's (can try to find 2nd hand).

 

10) 12V "cigarette" socket

unlike the FJS/JDM models, the SWT does not come with a 12V supply socket from factory. this socket is especially useful when you need to charge your electronic gadgets (hp, gps, etc) or run some 12V tools (e.g. air-pump, wrench, etc). cost of a socket range from few dollars to >$30 depending on quality, labor not included yet.

 

 

with more budget, you can consider the more capital intensive stuffs like exhaust full-system, rear shocks, etc.

 

happy modding

 

another popular add-on is a voltmeter

Edited November 21, 2011 by scoobydoo

[Uncle]

FJS400 Electrical Wiring Diagram

FJS400_Silverwing_ElectricalWiringDiagram.pdf

[scoobydoo]

Aftermarket Variator, Rollers, Torque Springs

 

 

Some common aftermarket variators for SW

the front variator assembly is sometimes referred to as multivar, maybe it is the short form for "multi-speed variators".. just guessing

 

left: Polini variator & rollers (roller weights & "jackets")

right: stock variator & rollers

http://silverwing.org/mwf/attach/83/1583/12Variatorcomparison1.JPG

 

* Polini Speed Control

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTWilhYpDH1k3PFycZfWV6Ts4ELuTkjSMVAokL2m53wxGmphHrHzQ

 

* Malossi Multivar 2000

http://www.malossiusaonline.com/v/vspfiles/photos/5113516-2.jpg

 

* Malossi Fly/Delta Clutch

http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQlXc5CgNjgMXQirUQFM1R70ZK-qB2w-BVoZP5RZpTU0xHCDyGt3Q

 

* J-Costa Variator (on right)

... notice that it uses friction pins instead of the usual rollers

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/5026/50990666.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

SW Clutch Bell (Honda Stock)

 

Just found that the clutch bell for SW400 and SW-T are also different part number. Why? Because SW-T comes thicker (1.5mm) thus no pigeon sound.

http://66.163.168.225/babelfish/translate_url_content?.intl=us&lp=it_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.silverwing400.it%2findex.php%3foption%3dcom_content%26task%3dview%26id%3d280%26Itemid%3d83

 

 

SW400 *Look part number 1

[ATTACH=CONFIG]240893[/ATTACH]

 

SW-T400

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]240894[/ATTACH]

 

 

Rollers for SW

 

So if i want more low end acceleration, i can change the rollers to lighter ones, Malossi 24Grams?

 

Honda (Stock) Rollers

1. The green 29g rollers actually belongs to JDM400. Part number 22123-MEF-000.

 

2. The brown 25.3g rollers are for FJS400 and SW-T400. Part number 22123-MEF-D00.

 

Honda stock items: clutch pegs (left) & rollers (right)

http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m577/sanjason88/b0ce91b6.jpg

That's the same roller part number most shops will replace even for the FJS or SW-T.

Should get the D00 instead but I'm still waiting for stock to arrive.

 

yes, using lighter rollers "allows" faster acceleration BUT you will be running bike at higher rpms... consumes more fuel??

this is due to the science of centrifugal forces acting in the variator... rate of spinning (rpm) and weight of rollers (mass object) reacts to create centrifugalforces which "change the gears".

* spinning fling/push the rollers outwards from the axis which in turn pushes the ramp and movable drive plates apart.

* movement squeeze the drive plates (which hold the belt) closer and forces the belt to move outwards ("idle" position is closer to the crank shaft).

* when belt at front variator increases it circumference, it pulls itself inwards at the rear variator (idle position is away from drive shaft).

* when front has smaller circumference and rear has larger circumference, this is the equivalent of low gear; many rotations at front is required to cause 1 rotation at rear.

* when front has larger circumference and rear has smaller circumference, this is the equivalent of high gear; 1 rotation at front causes many rotations at rear.

Malossi rollers

 

malossi also has rollers usable for SW; also has "whole" set for SW (variator, belt, clutch, springs, etc.). check this out:

http://www.malossistore.eu/famiglia2...M=MO%2fHOSI400

http://www.malossistore.eu/famiglia2...M=MO%2fHOSW400

 

24g rollers: good for city use, ~1g lighter than honda "brown" ones

21g rollers: very light rollers for zippy ride in city, not recommended as you'll operate bike at much higher rpms

 

note: some riders alternate the rollers in attempt to "balance" out and get an average weight. i.e. 21g-24g-21g-24g- etc.

not recommended as it will cause uneven wear on the roller ramps of the variator.

why? heavier rollers experience higher centrifugal forces, thus works harder on the ramps to push the variator out. exaggerated illustration is like having 8 fellas (4 fellas slightly shorter) carrying a boat on their heads, the 4 taller fellas will bear most of the weight of the boat and gets tired out earlier.

http://silverwing.org/mwf/attach/97/1597/26Malossirollerwithrespectivecover.JPG

 

some SWingers have used Dr Pulley sliding rollers (mostly lighter than stock):

http://www.unionmaterial.com/vsScooterTypeAll.htm

some riders have posted their review/feedback in the forum and seems some experienced faster wear-n-tear after using. however, manufacturer/resellers claimed no such issue.

Dr Pulley sliders got 26g, 25g, 24g and 21g.

caa 6pm today, Tai Hin only have 21g left.

 

If want the 26g, must pre-order. With installation, expect $95.

 

Alternatively, can use the malossi 24g rollers (use with stock variator).

Ah Choong left 3 sets I think, at $65 per set.

 

Confirmation with Ah Choong's SW Manuals (JDM & FJS)

1. The green 29g rollers actually belongs to JDM400. Part number 22123-MEF-000.

 

2. The brown 25.3g rollers are for FJS400 and SW-T400. Part number 22123-MEF-D00.

 

However, for god knows how long, FJS have come installed with the green rollers as stock. Likewise the 1st Gen SW-T.

Now with the current SW-T, they finally used the correct brown rollers.

Unfortunately, all parts agencies continue to bring in only the green ones, thinking that is stock. Alamak.

 

I've ordered 2x brown sets from ACM. Hopefully will arrive by May 12.

If they are the correct ones, I'll order some more just to keep spares. **Green ones are just too slow...

 

Anyway, I took the 24g Malossi for testing also. Will fix on tmr and check the difference.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]240798[/ATTACH]

 

* Dr Pulley sliding rollers (by Union Material)

... Tai Hin is authorised distributor in SG

despite many claims that these sliders cause premature wear on the variator plates (ramp), many users who experienced better performance from the non-linear "gear ratio" change.

SW uses size 28x20, available in 3 weights 24g, 26g & 28g.

http://www.unionmaterial.com/images/2820.png

http://www.unionmaterial.com/rollerweight6.htm

http://www.unionmaterial.com/vsScooterTypeAll.htm

 

Dr Pulley Sliding Rollers SR2820 26g

 

http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u382/raymondsg/Silverwing/Dr_Pulley/0673aef7.jpg

 

Installed today. The uniqueness is it makes the variator movement non-linear compared to normal round rollers. 26g seems just nice. Move-off rpm is slightly higher than stock at around 3.5krpm. Most of the "gear ratio change" occurs around 4.5-5.5krpm, which is near SW max torque. At high speed, rpm is about 500rpm lesser than stock to achieve the same speed. Engine brake seems lesser. Feels pretty good for a simple change.

 

I don't have the experience of installing dr. Pulley rollers. But I do ever see the damage done after installing dr pulley rollers. The square rollers will cause friction damage on the roller guides in the variator. If you Want a higher torque, you can try installing a after market torque spring. I am running malossi torque spring.

 

 

Clutch Springs

 

http://www.provoscooter.com/magento/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/0/2/02.99605.265.jpg

http://www.psntuning.co.uk/admin/modules/image.php/clutch.%20MALOSSI%20CLUTCH%20SPRING%20KIT%20-%203%20SETS%20FOR%20O-E%20CLUTCH.jpg?width=300&height=300&image=/admin/images/parts/1267976128.jpg

 

Does anyone know the Spring Rate of the OEM Clutch springs?

 

Does anyone know the Spring Rate of the various color springs of the Malossi spring set?

What do you mean by saying rate?

 

I know that the

white malossi springs are 10% firmer then the oem springs.

yellow malossi springs are 30% firmer then the oem springs.

red malossi springs are 50% firmer then the oem springs.

 

 

I am not an expert on this, but I think I understand it well enough to respond. Everybody, feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

 

The drive train (variator, belt and clutch) depends upon friction and centrifugal force to make the scooter move.

 

When we were kids, we thought it was neat to tie a string around a potato and swing it in a circle around our heads. At first, the potato would hang down near the ground, but as we swung it faster, it would rise and the string would straighten out - centrifugal force at work.

 

The other thing we would do (again, as kids that didn't know any better) is to find two walls and climb them by putting our feet against one wall and our butts against the other wall. You could walk up the wall if you pressed hard enough - friction at work. If you did not press hard enough, you slipped and fell down. Rock climbers use the same technique.

 

The variator works on centrifugal force - spin the motor faster and the roller/slider weights fling outwards, causing the variator to slide closer together and changing the motor speed/wheel speed ratio change.

 

The belt works on friction. If it slips, you don't move.

 

The clutch works on friction and centrifugal force. The faster it spins, the more the centrifugal force pushes the clutch pads (shoes?) against the bell housing of the clutch. The clutch springs (the little ones that attach to the clutch shoes, not the single big spring you can see when you take the cover off the driveline) hold the shoes away from the bell housing until the springs are overpowered by enough centrifugal force (about 2000-2200 RPM on stock springs) to cause them to contact the bell housing and make the rear wheel turn. The clutch shoes will slip a little at first because there is not enough centrifugal force to cause enough friction until close to 2800-3000 RPM to fully engage the shoes.

 

So, if you are getting a slipping feel, it is coming from the belt or the clutch shoes.

 

You could solve that problem in a couple of ways. 1)Use a new belt. 2)Use stronger clutch springs (yellow or red Malossi) so that the clutch does not engage until it can engage strongly. This might lead to jerkier starts, but with your sidecar's extra weight it probably won't be a problem for you. If you use weaker clutch springs, it would allow the clutch shoes to contact sooner (less than 2000 RPM), but in a weaker way (less centrifugal force) - allowing more slip. 3)Use a clutch with more shoes/pads for a greater contact area.

 

How old is your belt? If it's old, try a new one. If your belt is fairly new, then you might want to start with clutch springs. If you feel like you just don't have the power to get up hills with the sidecar, you might want to put in lighter variator weights to allow the motor to rev higher. Personally, I do not think I would want to change the single big clutch spring - that would have a similar effect to using lighter variator weights. However, if you have a fresh belt and stronger clutch springs and you are still getting slippage, then heavier weights and a stronger single clutch spring would put the belt under more tension and reduce belt slippage.

 

Hope this helps. Let us know what you do and how it affects your scoot.

 

Philip

 

http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=4499

 

 

Torque (aka Contra) Spring

Torque spring affects the rate at which the "gear ratio" is dropped when we close the throttle; feeling is something like engine brake effect.

a stronger torque spring gives a speedier change but some riders prefer to experience less "engine brake"... matter of choice.

all springs deteriorates or weaken over time. i.e. there will come a time where we need to change the torque spring, question is to use stock one or an aftermarket

 

http://silverwing.org/mwf/attach/92/1592/21Malossispringpackage.JPG

http://silverwing.org/mwf/attach/93/1593/22Springcomparison1.JPG

 

After taking off the black cover... this is what you see

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SW_transm.jpg?t=1240904101

 

rollers & variator

http://www.silverwing.org/mwf/attach/59/559/swbeltrm3.jpg

 

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1074&stc=1&d=1062438878

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1075&stc=1&d=1062439099

Edited February 18, 2014 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

The conventional petrol internal combustion engine which the SW (almost all bikes) is running on depends on spark plugs to spark or fire the engine cycles. Many variables combined with the spark plugs to make the engine run smoothly and optimally. e.g. grade of petrol, fuel-air mixture, voltage from ignition coil, material (e.g. platinum, iridium, etc) and design (gap, grove, protrusion, heat range, etc) of plugs, wires, timing (advance or retard), etc.

 

Read more about spark plugs here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug

 

when you next change your sparkies, don't just throw them away as they are trying to tell you something about your current setting.

so what are your sparkies trying to tell you?

 

 

 

http://www.theultralightplace.com/images/Plgnorm1_small.jpg ... A tan colored plug means that the engine is running normal and the air/fuel mixture is correct. This is the correct color a spark plug should be and it tells you everything is fine with the engine. You would install a new properly gapped plug. When installing a new plug, replace the old one with the same heat range. This plug shows normal wear in the center electrode. A new plug would have square edges that helps the plug fire better.

 

http://www.theultralightplace.com/images/Plgworn1_small.jpg ... This plug is worn out from being used for a long period of time. Notice how the center electrode is round and worn from use. A spark plug that is worn takes a lot more voltage to fire and can cause poor engine running.

 

http://www.theultralightplace.com/images/Plgdamg1_small.jpg ... This plug shows what can happen when something hits the spark plug. Something from inside the engine has hit the plug and this problem must be repaired before running the engine further. Make sure the spark plug is the correct length for the engine.

 

http://www.theultralightplace.com/images/Plgdetn1_small.jpg ... Excessive detonation has caused the porcelin on this plug to break away. If this engine is allowed to run, engine damage can occur. Make sure the fuel octane is high enough for the engines requirements.

 

http://www.theultralightplace.com/images/Plgheat1_small.jpg ... A white colored plug is caused by engine overheating. Failure to repair this engine will result in severe engine damage. Common causes for this are:

• Incorrect spark plug (too hot heat range).
  
• Low octane fuel.
  
• Timing is not set properly.
  
• Cooling problems, (dirty cylinder fins, no or low water if water cooled, low or no engine oil).
  
• Carburetor air/fuel mixture is too lean (too much air).
  
• Leaking crankshaft seals, no oil, base or head gasket leaks, or crankcase leaks on two stroke engines.

 

http://www.theultralightplace.com/images/Plgashd1_small.jpg ... This plug has ash deposits which are light brownish deposits that are encrusted to the ground and/or center electrode. This situation is caused by the type of oil used and adding a fuel additive. This condition will cause a misfire. This can be also caused by changing oils in midstream.

 

http://www.theultralightplace.com/images/Plgoilf1_small.jpg ... This plug is oiled fouled, caused by poor oil control.

 

http://www.theultralightplace.com/images/Plgprei1_small.jpg ... Pre-ignition, which will usually look as a melted center electrode and/or ground electrode. Check for incorrect heat range plug, over advanced timing, lean fuel mixtures or even hot spots or deposit accumulation inside the combustion chamber.

 

http://www.theultralightplace.com/images/Plgspre1_small.jpg ... Sustained Pre-ignition, which will usually look as a melted or missing center electrode and/or ground electrode as well as a destroyed insulator. Check for incorrect heat range plug, over advanced timing, lean fuel mixtures or even hot spots or deposit accumulation inside the combustion chamber.

 

http://www.theultralightplace.com/images/Plgspld1_small.jpg ... Splashed deposits look as if they are small islands of contaminants on the insulator. This is usually caused by dirty carburetor bores or air intake.

 

http://www.theultralightplace.com/images/Plgcrbn1_small.jpg ... A black dry fluffy colored plug is caused by deposits from a carburetor that is running too rich (too much gas), or excessive idling on some engines. Black smoke coming from the exhaust is a sign of a rich air/fuel mixture. The rich air/fuel mixture must be repaired before installing a new spark plug. Common causes for a rich air/fuel mixture are:

• dirty air filter.
  
• air mixture screw or carburetor needs adjusting.
  
• choke is sticking.
  
• carburetor float height is out of adjustment or float is sticking open.
  

 

references:

http://www.theultralightplace.com/sparkplugs.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug

Edited September 5, 2010 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

Looks?

+ change to bike seat cover with designs or coloured

+ common mods on IU:

. . . use IU cover/jacket or spray IU (to black or choice colour)

. . . shift IU into right glove compartment

. . . link IU power cable with a cigarette plug and use IU as plug-n-play device in left glove compartment

. . . add power socket/lint to IU power cables to make it removable in right glove compartment

+ paste theme stickers or whole bike

+ airbrush pics/designs on bike

+ sports (shorter) windshield

+ tinted windshield

+ undercarriage LED illum lights

+ blinker or strobe lights

+ coloured LED for pilot lights

 

Faster on Less?

+ add voltage regulator units (e.g. PA2, Revtec, VS, etc)

+ add grounding for smoother engine and preserve batt

+ improve sparking (e.g. PA ignite)

+ use iridium spark plugs

+ change to performance spark plug wires

+ use lighter rollers for faster pickup (e.g. Dr Pulley, Malossi)

+ change to aftermarket variators (e.g. Malossi Multivar, Pollini Speed Control, etc)

+ change to performance exhaust full system (e.g. Leo Vince)

+ change to K&N air-filter

+ modify airbox for better airflow

+ change air-fuel settings by adjusting air-screws

+ add fuel-filter for cleaner fuel

+ add fuel ionisers or catalyst (e.g. broquet)

+ use fuel additives for cleaner systems (e.g. FP60, STP additives range, etc)

 

Safer?

+ non-slip bike seat cover ~$70+ to >$150 depends on design/material

+ add 3rd brake lights to box or body

+ add reflectors or stick reflector-strips to side and/or rear

+ change to brighter headlight bulbs

+ change to yellowish headlight bulbs (good for touring)

+ add hazard lights

+ change to harder springs for better handling (e.g. hyperpro)

+ change to harder rear shocks for better handling (e.g. haggon)

+ use steel braided brake hoses for more sensitive braking

+ change to electric horn (this is really a potential life saver)

+ change to better gripping tyres

 

Comfortable?

+ add gel or high-density sponge under seat cover

+ change to heady balancers for less vibrations

+ change to BMW grips for better comfort & grips

+ add throttle rocker to relief wrist strain

+ change to bigger/taller/wider wind shields for more comfort

+ add rider’s raised backrest for long distance support

+ add pillion backrest

+ add pillion armrest

+ change pillion footrest to “floorboard” type

 

“Functionable”?

+ add top box (some comes with built in brake lights)

+ add luggage rack to top-box

+ add side saddlebags or hard-cases

+ add console bag (centre above fuel tank)

+ add GPS/PDA/mobile phone mounts (RAM mounts or customised)

+ add HID kit for brighter whiter headlights

+ add voltmeter to monitor charging and battery level

+ add headlight protector to preserve headlight unit

+ add wire-mesh radiator protector (DIY)

+ add spot/fog lights for more illum in the dark

+ shift side mirrors to mount on fairing (head cowl)

+ add front fork-seal protector

+ add rear shocks dust cover or wrap (DIY)

+ change to L-shaped air-leads for easier tyre inflation

+ change to LED bulbs for rear/brake lights

+ change to LED bulbs for signal lights

+ add 1-way or 2-way alarm systems for additional security

+ add stereo system for some entertainment

+ add intercom system (wired)

+ change rider rubber foot-mat to metallic foot-board

 

Disclaimer:

Many of the additional or enhancement items in the ideas list above are not approved by LTA. SWingers who choose to adopt the ideas and make the various changes will have to bear responsibility for their own decisions and actions. I shall not be held responsible for any inconveniences, legal liabilities or injuries resulting from the changes made.

 

Edited September 5, 2010 by scoobydoo

[fishermen21]

Anyone know where to getthe original underseat light with on/off switch. I saw it At the Italy sw community forum.

 

http://66.163.168.225/babelfish/translate_url_content?.intl=us&lp=it_en&trurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.silverwing400.it%2findex.php%3foption%3dcom_content%26task%3dview%26id%3d29%26Itemid%3d83

 

Got the Honda serial number but went to FJT and chong aik both shop say they dun carry the parts.

 

Any ideas where to find if? I find that the light now is wasting battery in the day. When u open the seat it will also turn on.

 

That day I forget to lock the seat properly and the light was on the whole two days till I rode the bike.

 

Where to get led Light for it and the pilot light?

Edited January 26, 2010 by *fishermen21*

[nineh]

Hi SW Gurus,

 

need some advice on purchasing a SW400 - Euro '07 Model.

 

SW400 - Euro - '07

Registered feb '07

34K Mileage

 

Outlook 8/10 - Silver - some minor scratches at the front fender

Engine sounds ok.

Brakes and lights work well.

No visible rust on metal parts

Dash need polishing

 

That's all i can figure out within the bike shop.

 

Taking the bike out is gonna cost me $9400 OTR (inc. insurance, road tax, 1 full servicing).

Im taking a loan..so we'll leave tat part with the interest out.

 

I need your opinions... is teh price of $9400 "ok" for a SW in teh condition i have mentioned ??

 

cheers

Edited February 4, 2010 by nineh

[scoobydoo]

someone PM me about which shop can do rear tyre balancing but guess i'ld post reply here, for the good of anyone who's thinking of changing tyres soon...

 

according info gathered from fellow SWinger, Sporting Motor has "gadgets" to do balancing for both front and rear tyres for SW... see tech corner post #5.

from what i was told (i've never done rear balancing for my SW ), balancing the SW' rear wheel require special "calipers" to hold the wheel in place for spinning on the balancing machine; this is due to the odd shaping axle area (see pics below). another common issue is that the rear wheel's radius (with the tyre) is too small for many balancing machines even when they can be mounted; can't spin the wheel/tyre when the spinner unit can't touch the tyre.

 

i believe the price for a pair of pirelli diablo scoot (incl. labor and f/r balancing) has increased... guess i'll still take the package as if around $170~$180+

remember to check age of tyres.

 

Sporting Motors Pte Ltd

1 Kaki Bukit Ave 6 #02-60 Autobay @ Kaki Bukit Singapore 417883

http://gothere.sg/maps#q:417883

Tel: 6396 0230

~ balancing only: approx. $20 each wheel

~ pirelli diablo scoot (F/R set) include labour & front/rear balancing: approx $160+

~ brake pads include labor/GST: EBC FA261HH for SW front $67, FA196HH for SW rear $67

 

http://www.leroybeal.net/motorcycles/silverwing/articles/rearwheel/DSC01382-1.JPG

 

http://www.leroybeal.net/motorcycles/silverwing/articles/rearwheel/DSC01378-1.JPG

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IX4NpFNjpsY

 

 

AC also have 'gadget' for the rear wheel but they currently no have the machine to balance ANY wheel...

 

 

some articles about tyre balancing...

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_balance

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balancing_machine

http://customwheelsmarket.com/moinonwhba.html

 

Example of a motorcycle "spinner" wheel balancer

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=650542&group_ID=675721&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/images/EEWB308C.jpg

Note: scooter wheel adaptors needs to be separately purchased, something which many motortiams didn't invest in.

Features:

 

EEWB308D Balancer Includes

1412 Conical Spring

3607-01Conical Spring

3609-01 Spacer

EAC0054D14A Left Hand Crank

EAM0006G16A Left Hand Crank Bolt

WBM8430-02 Caliper Assembly

EAA0255J43A Flange Assembly

EAM0005D62A Distance Gauge Extender

EAM0005D40A Calibration Weight

EAK0221J13A Adaptor Kit

7-14201A Power Adaptor (120VAC, 1.9 amps)

 

EEWB308A Optional Accessories (not Included)

EAA0260D16A BMW Adaptor. For rear monolever wheels.

EAA0260D80A Basic Motorcycle Adaptor. For 14mm shafts.

EAA0277D03A Shaft Assembly. 10mm shaft diameter.

EAA0277D05A Scooter Adaptor.

EAA0277D06A Scooter Rear Wheel Adaptor. 14mm shaft.

EAA0277D07A Suzuki Adaptor. For 14mm shaft.

EAA0277D09A Honda/Yamaha Wheel Adaptor.

EAA0277D11A Aprilla Rear Monolever Wheel Adaptor.

EAA0277D20A Ducati Adaptor. For 3/4" shaft.

EAA0277D21A Ducati Adaptor. For 28.5mm shaft.

EAA0277D22A Harley Davidson Shaft Assembly. For integrated shaft.

EAA0277D29A Shaft Assembly. 14mm shaft diameter. 10.125" long.

WBM1486-03 Bushing Set. 19mm.

WBM1515 Shaft Set. 12mm shaft diameter.

WWPR13A Wheel Weight Pliers

 

 

Balancing the wheels/tyres yourself?

(without using the expensive machines)

 

Yes, it can be done. All you need is the relevant tools and some space, assuming that you're able to remove the tyres yourself for balancing in the first place.

 

check this webby: Marc Parnes

http://www.marcparnes.com/Honda_Motorcycle_Wheel_Balancer.htm#SLW

(balancers for other bikes also available)

 

A sample of the balancer for SW looks like this:

http://probike.co.uk/tn020008.jpg

http://www.marcparnes.com/SW.jpg

 

Does it work?

http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=1741

 

It is a simple steel mandrel which has two cones on it. After removing one of the cones, simply pass the mandrel thru the wheel hub and replace the cone which was removed.

 

With the cones pressed firmly against the bores of the wheel hub, tighten the wing nuts on each cone to lock them to the mandrel.

 

There are also low friction bearings at each end of the mandrel. Place the whole assembly on to two supports i.e. axel stands or even large engine oil containers and off you go.

 

Full instructions and photo's are available on the marcparnes web site.

 

Yes I do have one with cone adaptors for my Silverwing and also for my BMW R1150R. The tool is easy to use and works well. Usually take me about five to ten minutes per wheel.

 

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee205/snowprick/200_0085.jpg

 

 

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee205/snowprick/200_0084.jpg

Edited August 23, 2017 by scoobydoo

[Uncle]

Articles on the yellow dot / red dot on tyres, how to mount tyres to use the least weights and minimise radial run-outs, and why it's done that way.

Bridgestone_WhyDoTheDotsGoWhereTheyDo.pdf

Toyo_MatchBalancing.pdf

Cooper_TyreWheelMatchMounting.pdf

[LKW]

Hi

Any recommend place to purchase and install a white colour headlight bulb, Not interested in HID. Thanks

[bigcow]

Hi

Any recommend place to purchase and install a white colour headlight bulb, Not interested in HID. Thanks

 

dun use those lousy types like $10 to $20 per pair kind.

use the Phillips Diamond Vision. Kind of ex. but the throw is far.

but if u do ride in Malaysia, try not to use white bulbs. cos white light cannot penetrate through fog & mist.

best is still yellow bulbs.

[SW9000]

Bumpzzzzzzzz

[rideral]

Very useful thread...nice read...thanks to all the contributors.

...^_^