<Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

[scoobydoo]

FSC600 Parts Catalog

PDF format:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B3kN9jAjOzG1NDBmY2E3ZTYtZDE4Mi00YWM0LTg1MjQtOTkxNzM1OTc5ZDMy/edit?usp=sharing

 

~ although the manual is for FSC600x and not all parts are the same, many parts used in the 600cc are also used in the 400cc models.

~ file size is about 4MB so it may take a while to load (depends on your bandwidth)

~ to download, right click on the link and select "save link as..."

 

FJS400 Online Parts Catalog

http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/moto-honda-identification-FJS400D6-5335.html

 

 

FJS400 Electrical Wiring Diagram

picture format: http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SW400_Electricals.jpg

 

 

Honda Silver Wing Maintenance Specifications

pic format: http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/SW400_MaintSpecs.jpg

Edited February 11, 2014 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

since this question (problem) pops up every now n then in the SW community, tot it'll be good to post the "probably solution" here

 

when we first turn on the ignition power (not crank start yet), bike's electronics including ECU will be powered up (can hear a faint zzz sound) and we can see the meters come on.

 

problem

when we crank start the bike, the electronics re-initialise itself again... meter goes off and comes back on again.

watch this clip

 

possible cause

the batt may hold normal voltage (12+V) but it has just enough current to crank start the engine. at moment when current is drawn for cranking (high current is required), voltage drops so low that it is insufficient to power the electronics. once engine is started, the alternator (aka magneto) takes over the supply and sufficient power returns.

this usually happens to an old batt or if the batt is relatively new, there may be something amiss with the charging system.

 

possible solutions

(a) charge the battery externally... especially if bike is not regularly in use or has been left alone for prolonged periods.

battery can be charged externally at workshops for a few dimes but usually takes at least a few hours even under "quick charge" mode. if you have your own charger, can DIY.

(b) take bike out for regular long rides... use the bikes magneto to charge the battery.

unfortunately, this works only for riders who ride their SW often, not when the bike is a weekend bike or a dust collector.

© change a new battery... most straight forward but gotta pay for it.

changing a new battery worked for most SWingers, symptom is gone once old batt is replaced.

 

if symptom returns shortly after changing to a new battery, it is time to check:

(i) charging system (mainly the magnetic coil & rectifier) as battery may not be properly charged; or

(ii) if there's any shorted links in the electrical system (tracing the shorts is a time consuming & costly process). removing any add-on items that's connected and drawing power (poor or damaged connections may cause shorts), allow the battery to be charged over few days of riding (or bring to workshop for charging) and monitor if problem persists.

 

 

 

 

another post on same topic...

 

For info.

If you ever encounter system recheck, time to take a look at the batteries.

 

http://www.silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=1738

 

add on:

according to feedback from echris108, a broken pin in speedometer unit could also cause the same symptom.

i this case, changing the batt wouldn't solve the issue.

my speedo had a broken pin due to corrsion n that cuz the same problem as mention above.

Edited August 13, 2014 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

What roles do additives play in motor oil performance?

 

Most lubricating oils have other chemicals added to improve the overall performance of the fluid. Chemical additives are used to enhance the beneficial properties of the base oil or to make up for oil deficiencies. For passenger car motor oils, base oil makes up 70 percent to 80 percent of the final product; the other 20 percent to 30 percent is comprised of additive chemistry.

 

Additives help lubricants stand up to extreme operating environments. Even the best base oil would not be able to protect as well against the effects of heat, shearing forces, chemical and water dilution, corrosion and wear particles. In short, additives make good base oils even better. They give good base oils the performance benefits consumers have come to expect, such as multi-grade performance, extended drain intervals and extreme-pressure performance.

 

 

Anti-wear Agents chemically react to form a film barrier that prevents metal-to-metal contact and wear.

 

Antioxidants reduce the tendency for oil to react with oxygen and reduce sludge buildup.

 

Dispersants help to suspend and disperse contaminants in the oil to keep engine surfaces free of sludge and deposits. They fight the build-up of corrosive acids and are most efficient at controlling low-temperature deposits.

http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/motoroil/img3.png

 

Detergents help to suspend and disperse contaminants in the oil to keep engine surfaces free of sludge and deposits. They are most efficient at controlling high-temperature deposits.

 

Extreme-Pressure Additives coat metal surfaces to prevent close-contact components from seizing under extreme pressure. They are activated by high temperatures and high loads to react with the metal’s surface to form a sacrificial wear layer on components.

 

Foam Inhibitors reduce the surface tension of air bubbles and causes them to collapse.

http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/motoroil/img4.png

 

Friction Modifiers can be used to give oil more ‘slippery’ characteristics. In engine oils, friction modifiers are used to increase the oil’s lubricity for the purpose of reducing friction and improving fuel economy.

 

Pour Point Depressants give high-viscosity oils good low-temperature properties. Pour point depressant polymers inhibit the formation of crystals to minimize low-temperature viscosity increase.

 

Rust & Corrosion Inhibitors form a protective barrier over component surfaces to seal out water and contaminants. While most rust and corrosion inhibitors work by forming a physical barrier, some rust inhibitors function by neutralizing acids.

 

Viscosity Index Improvers are long-chain polymers that help control the viscosity of multi-grade engine oils. They expand and contract as temperatures vary. High temperatures cause VI improvers to expand and reduce oil thinning; low temperatures cause the VI improvers to contract and have little impact on oil viscosity.

http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/motoroil/img5.png

 

 

Reference: Amsoil FAQ

Edited October 29, 2012 by scoobydoo

[triumsg]

scooby .. keep up the outstanding wffort. the wealth of info here alone may persuade pple to buy a SW!

[scoobydoo]

This question have popped up many times over the history of motorcyles and scooters. But to date, there hasn't been a "right" answer that both the riders and oil manufacturers agree upon.

 

Among the most commonly cited concerns about using car motor oils in motorcycles is the presence of performance enhancing additives, especially:

* Friction Modifiers (alleged to cause clutch slippage in wet-clutches),

* Anti-Wear Agents and Extreme-Pressure Additives (protection when running engines at high pressure/rpms).

See post #54 Additives in Motor/Engine Oil

 

Big Question

The Silver Wing maxi-scooter is powered by a 4 stroke parallel twin engine and uses belt CVT... no wet clutch!!!

Does that mean it is ok to use 4 stroke 10w40 motor oil (recommended by honda), but that which is formulated for cars?

The answer is Yes & No ... that's my 0.2 cents opinion

 

Yes ... if your SW is primarily used for local riding and some short makan/shopping trips up North; assuming you're a law abiding motorist that doesn't ride without regards for speed limits or rides with only 2 throttle modes... open or close

 

The SW's transmission runs on CVT & "dry clutch" that's mounted to the rear/final drive. Thus, having friction modifiers in motor oil do not contribute to SW's clutch slippage (caused by other factors).... to some, "more slippery is good".

 

As for the so called "specially formulated for motorcycles/scooters" oils with anti-wear and extreme pressure additives, these are probably useful when we intend to visit those performance "zones".

Just how fast/long do you plan/intend/usually ride locally, especially with all the traffic lights and jams in the city? The opportunity to rev the engine a bit is probably on the Expressways, which are also quite jammed up during peak hours. Even that, we're looking at short intervals of higher rpm, unlike touring.

 

No (traditionally) ... if you're taking the SW for longer tours, i.e. running at high speeds/rpms over prolonged periods. e.g. trip from GP Esso to Hatyai (via Sadao) about 870km, to Ipoh about 840km, to Genting Highlands about 385km. It is common to plan petrol/butt breaks of around 160~220km apart (>1hr between each), e.g. stopover at Ayer Keroh RSA (210km), run for >1.6 hrs at 7+k rpm.

yes, there're lots of racing grade car oils in the market that can run at high rpms as well. but if we're going to pay for such premium car oils, then no more savings for using car oils le.

 

Justification for using "specially formulated" motorcycle oils is...

"the use of anti-wear and extreme pressure additives provide additional protection to motorcycle engines which usually run at higher rpms to those of cars. these additives help to prevent excessive or premature wear and tear to the running parts of the engines."

 

 

Other Considerations

 

* Modern/Racing Formulas... many advanced racing formula car motor oils have specs suitable for use at high rpms too. This closes the gap between motor oils for use in cars and motorcycles. Such motor oils supports high rpms but there're still arguments that motorcycle engines are more delicate and car racing rpms goes up and down during the race (changing gears) and don't stay at high levels all the time.

 

* Drain Intervals... since it is claimed that car motor oils breaks down earlier than motorcycle oil when used in a motorcycle/scooter, then simply shorten the drain intervals and... whoala

 

* Savings... is the difference significant enough? This depends on the car motor oil to be used. Some car oils are just, if not more expensive than motorcycle oils. But if the savings are like $10+ per drain, I'ld say save the hassle and take the motorcycle oil

 

 

Relevant Reads...

 

http://aceong.wordpress.com/2011/07/27/amsoil-in-cars-scooters-or-motorcycles/

 

3. What kind of oil should i use if i decide to use car engine oil for my scooter?

 

Answer:

Well, I presume that you post this question because you are riding a scooter with a “dry” clutch. There is nothing wrong with using the AMSOIL Scooter oil although it posses wet clutch components. The AMSOIL ASO carries most of the protection properties required by a Scooter engine and it is definitely safe to use it.

 

If you intend to try a car lubricant in your scooter, just bear in mind that AMSOIL lubricants carries the “friction modifiers” additives, so long as your vehicle manufacturer can recognize this, I don’t see much problem with the selections that is available in the AMSOIL automotive portfolio. Likewise, I strongly suggest that you will double check with your scooter manufacturer for their recommendation as well, because I am not the best person to advice on the engines requirements fitted in your vehicle.

 

However you can provide an engine specification, manufacturer name, model and recommended oil from manufacturer. AMSOIL Singapore can recommend the best oil that fits your vehicle. We appreciate your interest in our product, and will cater our best technical advice for your needs.

 

~ Ace Y.C. Ong

Engine lubricant Specialist

AMSOIL, Singapore

 

 

Mobil FAQ

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oil_FAQs.aspx

 

So how is Mobil 1â„¢ synthetic motor oil for passenger cars different from Mobil 1 for motorcycles?

 

First, let's be clear about the overall benefits of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil compared to those of conventional motor oils, whether for passenger cars or motorcycles:

* Superior long-term engine protection.

* Superior high-temperature stability.

* Excellent low-temperature starting.

* Outstanding engine performance.

* Low volatility/low oil consumption.

 

It's a little hard to generalize about the difference between Mobil 1 passenger-car motor oils and Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. That's because not all viscosities of Mobil 1 passenger-car oils have the same levels of zinc and phosphorus, and there are even greater differences among the two Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. In general, Mobil 1 motorcycle oils have:

* Additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers. Motorcycle oils do not require friction modifiers for fuel economy and for better clutch friction less/no friction modifier is optimum. Motorcycle oils allow the use of higher levels of antiwear additives such as ZDDP (phosphorous).

 

 

Motorcycle Oil vs. Automotive Oils

(author of this post supports the idea of using car oil)

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

 

 

Difference Between Car and Motorcycle Oils

What is the difference from motorcycle oil than car oil? -- Matt Coffman, Attica, NY

 

Answer:

Motorcycle oils and passenger car oils are very similar, with the exception of a couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation.

 

The first area concerns common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission. As you know, in a passenger car the transmission is lubricated by an ATF fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation. In a motorcycle, where the transmission may be lubricated by the engine oil, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction modification (for fuel economy) of a typical passenger car engine oil will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage. So motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil.

 

The second area of concern for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than a typical passenger car. Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.

 

Mobil

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...cycle_Oil.aspx

 

 

More than you ever want to know about engine oil

http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

Edited November 5, 2012 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

personally, i would recommend to have 3 keys in our possession; 2 if rider does not go touring. why need additional keys?

key 1: daily riding

key 2: spare to be brought along for touring

key 3: spare to be kept at home at all times for "emergency"

or

key 4: held by finance co. if under hire-purchase

 

if you unluckily loose the riding key, there's still a backup at home.

if no where else has the HISS key that can start your bike, you're screwed as the "whole set" (think need to change CDI) has to be replaced, estimated 4-digit damage

 

3 steps to duplicate an additional HISS key:

(1) buy the uncut honda HISS key

(2) duplicated the key per the existing/operational ones

(3) have all keys synchronised (programmed) with bike's codes

 

basically, no need to get chopped at BS. but note that many motortiams are also choppers too... better do our homework in order to "minimise" loss:

 

here's more info... prices were from few years back

 

key:

* the lowest known price of an uncut key was +/-$20 each, heard a chopper shop quoted as high as $100 each.

* other than BS, uncut keys may be purchased from honda parts dealers (e.g. FJT) and honda resellers (e.g. looi's, mah, etc.). not sure but heard that LAB also sells.

* shops usually sell the uncut key, owners have to find a reliable cutter (e.g. Mr Mint) to duplicate the key according the existing ones. services of roadside key cutters are strongly dis-advised.

 

programming:

* programming must be done or the newly cut key will not be able to start the engine. it can on the electricals (HISS light will come on) but cannot crank... tested n proven.

* the lowest known price for programming was $15 for one additional key, some shops charge as high as $50 each just to do the programming.

* a seasoned mech should take

* i was told that ALL keys must be present during the programming session as the codes in the keys' microchips will be "synchronised" with those in the bike. i.e. key withheld by the finance co. may become "un-startable". this was not tested as i had all my keys with me

 

as a reference, i got my additional key done for $39 (uncut key and programming at Looi's for $35, cutting at Mr Mint cost $4); think that's not the cheapest available

 

the below thread is also about cutting & programming addition HISS keys

H.I.S.S.

 

 

Silverwing SW400/600 EURO model

 

HISS

 

For those guys riding the Euro version Wing, dun be alarmed when you see your HISS light not blinking. It is still working fine but it is set default not to blink when you turn off your switch. But you can set it on if you want. Need to set it after every time when you off your bike if you want it to blink. If not, just leave it without blinking but it is still working fine.

Edited November 18, 2013 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

the SW is basically a rather complete bike with only some minor inherent issues (all bikes have) of its own. just do the normal run in, adapt to it and you'll enjoy the new ride tremendously

 

some things to look out for as a brand new SW owner...

(there's another checklist for buying used SW)

 

warranty card:

ask for it if bike shop didn't give it to you. alternatively, you can call Boon Siew and collect it directly from them. dunno if still available nowadays, there was a 3 month extra warranty period if registered online. nevertheless, once your bike is registered into BS's system, the physical card becomes somewhat "redundant".

 

insurance:

most new bikes are sold with 3PFT (aka 2nd party) that do not cover self repairs. imo, it is worth the extra premium (think difference is about $200) to upgrade it to comprehensive coverage as many body parts of "higher end" maxi-scooters are rather expensive, including the SW or TMax. replacement of headlight unit, dashboard & body tupperwares, electronic/speedo panel, etc. could easily clock thousands if the bike so unluckily crash into something (e.g. tree, longkang, car, or whatever). most, if not all maxi-scoots' head are "hollow" and unfortunately made of expensive tupperwares which usually cracks on impact.

yes, platics can be mended but their strength & weight distribution may become uneven. furthermore, those little positioning "legs" or pegs that holds the tupperware nicely to each other or the bike's frames can't be repaired.

but of course, we should always aim not to need any insurance claims regardless the coverage/premium... ride safely

 

spare keys:

imo, its good to have spare keys. check out the tech post on "additional HISS keys".

 

life saving horns:

among the first thing we do is to fit a louder horn (e.g. stebel, hella, etc), this could be a potential live saver. drivers/riders on Singapore roads are pretty reckless and many don't have the habit of checking blind spots when filtering lanes. with windscreen wound up and stereo systems turned on, the soft stock horn may sound just like mosquitoes "buzzzs". we need a loud horn to tell them "there's someone here"... if they don't see us, make sure they hear us.

unless you know exactly what you're doing, its better to get a skillful mech to wire the horns up since a relay is required. "bad" wiring could cause some undesirable outcome like blowing the fuses.

 

top box:

probably the most commonly used top box for SW is the 45L givi simply (optional brake light kit) with which costs only a fraction of the 52L givi maxia. other popular economical options include the 46L kappa K-46 and 48L coocase S48. if willing to pay a premium, there's always the Hepco & Becker boxes.

whichever box you choose, remember to tell the mech or shop to use the 4 "stock holes" at tail fin that're already prepared by honda for this purpose; compatible with most base plates. you can't see the holes from the fin's top cos honda purposely left it "filled" (some owners doesn't want boxes); they are visible at the bottom.

 

headlight protector:

this $40 thingy could help save hundreds, not sure but i think only motoworld sells. imaging riding along the expressway and a small rock flies up, hits the headlight causing a crack/hole. unless you intend to use superglue or something, the whole headlight unit has to be replaced as the transparent front cover can't be change separately. other than workmanship, headlight unit itself costs about $500+ before discount.

 

heavy bar-ends (aka balancers):

imo, the small stock balancers are pathetic. you can immediately feel the comfort on your hands once you've changed to the heavy ones.

note that SW does not use the standard honda bar-ends (those with a protruding section), the fitable ones are suzuki or scoot specs.

read this post for more info http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6486310&postcount=4804

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6608952&postcount=5244

 

parking:

with a long body, parking the SW at crowded public lots could be challenging at times. imagine parking at the inner lot and simply can't push the bike out when ready to leave because other bikes are in the way. either you move the bikes that're in the way (difficult and risky, what if you topple other pp's bike?) or get someone to help you shift the SW's "head" by lifting/shifting the front wheel sideways, something like turning the SW "on the spot" pivoting at the rear wheel; shifting the front is easier cos backside a darn lot heavier. rider has an extremely important task of maintaining the bike upright. otherwise, ho-sei liow.

recommendation? avoid inner lots which may be blocked when other lots are taken.

 

handling matters:

especially if new to scooters, you'll find the handling of SW is very different compared to street/off-road bikes. this is mainly due to the design of maxi-scoots, e.g. relatively lower CG, very much smaller wheels, light head but heavy backside, wider body, longer wheelbase, nothing to "kiap" between the legs, sitting postures, handlebar positions, etc etc. among the most notable of the SW is its monstrous ¼ ton weight and long wheelbase.

 

... arm wrestling a ¼ ton beast is never advisable so we'll have to feel the tilt thresholds; once the bike tilts to a certain angle at stationery, its almost a one way ticket down unless you've got really strong arms.

 

... SW probably has the longest wheelbase and body among all scooters in town. it is very comfortable on the cruise, but not as zippy as smaller scoots during traffic jams and has a much larger turning circle at U-turns.

 

... unlike normal bikes with much bigger wheels and shorter wheelbase, it is not suitable for acute turns (e.g. U-turns, "weaving" in car parks, etc). turn handlebar too much and it may get "locked in", next thing you feel is on the way down.

 

... the CVT is very comfortable and great for twist-n-go riding. however, some tact is required while riding or "gliding" down slopes as the clutch will automatically disengage at low revs; no more engine brakes and you'll need the brakes to help slow down the "free-wheelie" momentum. trick to re-engage clutch is to hold brakes gently and then throttle sufficiently to get the clutch back on every now-n-then. useful when coming down from genting highlands; coming down regular mscp or sheares bridge... brakes will do

 

... due to the SW's weight, its forward momentum is considerably higher (F = MA) and thus you'll need to factor in a longer stopping distance. since most if not all SW models here doesn't come with ABS, squeezing the brake levels too hard could cause a wheel-lock situation, then skids or buangs or bangs lai liow. probability increases when travelling on less than perfect floor (sandy, stones, wet, slippery markings, etc). the CBS (activated with left brake level) helps to distribute the braking force beween the front & rear brake calipers but it is not ABS, don't count on it; even ABS isn't 100%.

 

* don't treat the SW like a road bike or those small zippy scooters; it has larger turning circle (longer wheelbase) and doesn't cup corners like them

* brake earlier cos stopping distance is longer. even with ABS and CBS, it ain't gonna stop very short due to its larger momemtum (p = mass x velocity)

* avoid acute turns. once the handlebar gets locked in (e.g. max turn) and it's on its way down beyond threshold recovery angle, it's almost impossible for smaller riders to muscle it up. i.e. make bigger circle u-turns to avoid dropping bike.

* if bike is already on the way down beyond recovery (applies to stationary drop), way to minimise damage is to quickly step out on same side as drop, hold the handle bar firmly, support and lay the bike down as slowly/gently as possible. you'll still get scratches on the tupperware, but at least you help prevent the tupperware from getting "internal injuries" (once the holder pins/fins inside head cowl breaks, the tupperware won't stick together nicely anymore) from "free fall" impact.

* use body weight + pull the left pillion handgrip when putting on mainstand. 60+kg isn't enough on its own to step the SW up, so left hand hold left handlebar/grip and keep bike standing upright, right hand hold left pillion handgrip, right leg on main stand foot-pedal, step-up and pull the left pillion handgrip in opposite direction from foot-pedal, your SW should go up smoothly.

* always park facing up-slope, regardless of main or side stand. main/side stands uses the weight of bike and angle of stand to lock it in position, so if angle is insufficient, it takes only a small knock to bring the bike down. we don't wanna see bike laying flat on the ground when we return ya. another advantage is, its easier to throttle the bike upslope than having to push/reverse the bike upslope.

* use cat repellents if your carpark has cats around, they love the SW's big flat seats; sleeping is one thing, but they tend to pee and scratch the seat. i've tried many different methods, best solution is to use mothballs (suggested by James). buy a pack (~$1), pour into a pair of old socks, use 1 string to tie them onto the rider's backrest leaving 1 on the rider seat and the other on pillion seat (must tie or cat will push it away), it works and the $1 pack lasts for a few months.

many more, but that's it for now... enjoy and ride safe

 

once you get used to the ride, then its time for the extras...

 

10 basic enhancements... some may not be applicable to new bikes

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6109310&postcount=80

 

lots more for a non-stock SW...

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6140965&postcount=84

 

 

hope this long essay could help save someone's day, sometime, someplace and somehow

Edited February 2, 2016 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

How to improve power of a internal combustion engine?

 

There are many ways to increase power output of an internal combustion engine, of which mostly aimed at increasing the rate and efficiency of the given engine. Commonly known methods include putting more fuel/air mixture into the engine (e.g. change settings in ECU, use of Power Commander), using a fuel with higher energy content (e.g. using V-Power, Platinum), burning it more rapidly (e.g. racing ignition system; plugs, EFI suppressing wires, ignition box/coil, etc.), getting rid of the waste products more rapidly (e.g. micron full system or slip-on)… all these mainly increase volumetric efficiency.

 

Examples of modifications that may/can increase engine power:

 

* Changing the settings/tuning of ECU, which determines the quantity of fuel, ignition timing and other parameters by monitoring the engine through sensors. Advanced ECU uses microprocessors which can process the inputs from the engine sensors in real time and can also control the ignition timing, variable valve timing (VVT), the level of boost maintained by the turbocharger (in turbocharged cars), and other peripherals.

 

* Using larger diameter air-boxes and/or high-flow, high-efficiency air filters (e.g. K&N filters) to improve air intake to the carburetor.

 

* Using larger diameter exhaust piping and low back pressure mufflers could improve efficiency of waste gases leaving the system.

 

* Changing to high performance ignition setup such as iridium spark plugs, low resistance EFI shielded spark wires, performance ignition coil and racing ignition box controllers, etc.

 

* Increasing the size and/or number of valves in the engine, thus allowing fuel/air mixture better access, and exhaust gases speedier exit from the cylinder.

 

* Optimising the valve timing to improve burning efficiency. This usually results in an increase in power at one range of RPM at the expense of lower power at others ranges of RPM.

 

* Increasing the opening height (lift) of valves by changing the profiles of the cams on the camshaft or the lift (lever), ratio of the valve rockers (OHV engines), or cam followers (OHC engines).

 

* Increasing the compression ratio, which in turn increase cylinder pressure leading to more rapid burning of fuel. This can be done by using larger compression height pistons or thinner head gasket or "shaving" the cylinder head. High compression ratios require high octane fuels or knocking will occur.

 

* Adding a turbocharger or supercharger. This increases the fuel/air mix entering the cylinders by compressing the air. Power may be increased using an air-to-air or air-to-water intercooler.

 

* Modify fuel mixture by adding oxidisers such as nitrous oxide.

 

* Reducing losses to friction by machining moving parts to lower tolerances than production specifications or by replacing with “performance/racing” parts.

 

* Using larger or multiple carburetors, to create a more controllable fuel/air mixture to burn, and to get it into the engine more smoothly. In modern electronic fuel injection (EFI) engines, performance may be enhanced by “tuning” the ECU or using 3rd party gadgets.

 

* Increasing engine displacement through "boring" (increasing the diameter of the cylinders and pistons) and/or “stroking" (using a crankshaft with a greater throw).

 

* Using larger bored, smoother, less contorted intake and exhaust manifolds, also known as cylinder head porting. These help maintain the velocity and mixture of air/fuel mix entering the combustion chamber.

 

* Reducing the mass of the "rotating mass", which comprises the crankshaft, connecting rods, and pistons. Doing so can improve throttle response due to lower inertia, as well as reduce overall vehicle weight. This may be achieved by using titanium parts instead of steel.

 

 

Does an exhaust with widest outlet give best performance?

Apparently, it doesn't... read these

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/571594-exhaust-backpressure-the-myth/

http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/exhaustbackpressure.html

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/exhaust/0505phr_exh/

 

In summary, an exhaust generally performs optimally at a specific power band, except where the exhaust is able to "switch" between 2 exhaust paths, one for each lower and another for higher rpms.

 

Many people mistakenly believe that wider pipes are more effective at clearing the combustion chamber than narrower pipes. It's not hard to see how this idea would be appealing - as wider pipes have the capability to flow more than narrower pipes.

Back pressure in it's most extreme form can lead to reversion of the exhaust stream - that is to say the exhaust flows backwards, which is not good. The trick is to have a pipe that that is as narrow as possible while having as close to zero back pressure as possible at the RPM range you want your power band to be located at. Exhaust pipe diameters are best suited to a particular RPM range. A smaller pipe diameter will produce higher exhaust velocities at a lower RPM but create unacceptably high amounts of back pressure at high rpm. Thus if your power band is located 2-3000 RPM you'd want a narrower pipe than if your power band is located at 8-9000RPM.

I my history with Honda machines the stock exhaust gives the best "over all" power in the entire engine range. Aftermarket exhaust may give gains in one area but will result in a loss in another. The claim of increase at "low mid and high revs" is tough for me to grasp.

 

 

Examples of modifications that can improve acceleration, but do not necessary increase power:

 

* Increasing the angle on which the rollers travel and the angle on the angle plate in the rear variator in scooter’s CVT system. This gives a smoother, more constant acceleration but does not have effect on top speed.

 

* Changing the weight of rollers in scooter’s CVT system. By increasing or decreasing the weight of rollers, the rate at which the pulley diameter changes thus “gear ratio” could be modified. Generally, lighter rollers result in better acceleration but not as good top end performance.

 

* Changing the strength of contra spring in scooter’s CVT system. Using a stronger contra spring allows the pulley to revert to lower gear ratio faster when RPM is lowered by pushing the rear pulleys together. However, rollers may not be heavy enough to push the pulleys out in order to achieve higher gear ratio or top speed if contra spring is too strong.

 

* Changing the dimensions of sprockets. By increasing the size of rear sprocket, the amount of energy required to turn the rear wheel is be reduced, resulting in a more responsive setup with faster pickups at low RPM. However, this also results in a lower top speed at higher RPM.

 

 

Example of modifications that some claimed can/amy improve acceleration and reduce engine vibrations

* The use of capacitor based products (e.g. Voltage Stabiliser) has always been a hot topic for contention. While many manufacturers/distributors (and users too) stand by the deliverables of using such products which effectively are "capacitor boxes" that are connected in parallel to the bike's battery, many technically knowledgeable riders claimed otherwise.

* Some commonly used make/models on bikes are Power Abuser 2, Pivot Raizin Voltage Stabiliser, RevTec Impedance Stabiliser, etc.

* Some relevant threads... with debates

Raizin Voltage Stabilizers..

Voltage Stabilizer

 

 

 

In summary:

The choice of modification depends greatly on the degree of performance enhancement desired, budget, and the characteristics of the engine to be modified. Intake, exhaust, and chip upgrades are usually amongst the first modifications made as they are the cheapest, make reasonably general improvements, whereas a different camshaft, for instance, requires trading off smoothness at low engine speeds for improvements at high engine speeds.

 

 

Warning!!!

Apart from voiding the manufacturers’ machine warranty and legal consequences, we must remember that any increase in power output above their “standard” output will wear engine parts above their normal wear rates. In unfortunate cases, may even result in injuries or death to users of such modified engines and people around.

Advise… know what you are doing before doing, and remember the responsibility that goes with the choices.

 

Acknowledgement:

This info is compiled from many articles in the Internet… too many to remember from where

This is worth a read… http://www.scootdawg.com/downloads/CVT Basics.pdf

 

Edited November 21, 2012 by scoobydoo

[banx007]

Hi Guys, I just bought a barand new SWT400 and has been riding for the past few days and just realised it has a knocking sound coming from the engine when idling. issit normal?

[scoobydoo]

Hi Guys, I just bought a barand new SWT400 and has been riding for the past few days and just realised it has a knocking sound coming from the engine when idling. issit normal?

answered your query at the main SW discussion page... pls refer to http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6633007#post6633007

[joeling914]

since the link at page 1 is not functioning, here's an update of the useful reference documents:

 

Honda Silver Wing Parts Manual

~ although the manual is for FSC600x and not all parts are the same, many parts used in the 600cc are also used in the 400cc models.

~ file size is about 4MB so it may take a while to load (depends on your bandwidth)

~ to download, right click on the link and select "save link as..."

 

FJS400 Electrical Wiring Diagram

 

Honda Silver Wing Maintenance Specifications

 

hi Scoo;

 

i tried d/l the Honda Silver Wing Maintenance & was prompt the following error;

 

You (user name joeling) have just tried to access the document titled "SW MaintenanceSpecs.pdf -- May 25, 2010 9:05 am -- 33k". This document is located in the KeepandShare account "josephsbs". To view it you need to ask the owner of the account "josephsbs" to set the Sharing controls to give your KeepandShare user name "joeling" rights to view the document.

 

Can you advise how I can access to it?

thanks

joeling

[scoobydoo]

hi joeling

 

i've updated the new links (4shared.com) and dropped the previous free file share site.

please check back to the same post

 

cheers

[scoobydoo]

Voltage or Impedance Stabilizers & "Current Stimulator"

 

The use of capacitor based performance enhancers has always been a hot topic for contention. While many manufacturers/distributors (and some users too) stand by the deliverables of using such gadgets, there are also those who stands firmly on the other side. Such products are plentiful in the market for both bikes and cars, some of which are suitable for use in both.

 

There're lots of debate on whether such capacitor based products; some think such stuffs are crap while others swear by them.

Generally, capacitor stuffs helps by providing some cover to the fluctuations in supply and demand side of the bike's electrical system.

 

Supply fluctuations:

The bike's magnetic coil's original output is AC. The AC is then "converted" to DC by a rectifier unit. Regardless whether it is full-wave or half wave rectification, there will always be fluctuations in current level (see illustration below).

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/58/Halfwave.rectifier.en.svg/600px-Halfwave.rectifier.en.svg.png

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/Gratz.rectifier.en.svg/600px-Gratz.rectifier.en.svg.png

Capacitors may be, and are usually used to stabilise the supply by filling in the "gaps" through a charge-n-discharge (when voltage drops to spec levels) process.

 

Demand fluctuations:

There're lots of electrical powered items in a bike, e.g. ECU, all sorts of lightings, fuel & oil pump, electronic senors & displays, starter coil/motor, ignition coil (converts 12V to high voltages required for sparking), etc etc.

Electrical demands of a bike also fluctuates, through usage. Before engine is started, batt powers the bike's electricals/electronics and most importantly the starter motor which cranks the internal combustion engine so as to initiate the engine's on its own. The initial crank draws high current from the batt momentarily (won't discuss how the electric starter works here), that's why it is normal to see the headlight dims a little during starting. Once the engine is started, the engine's rotations turns the magnetic coil which converts mechanical energy into AC electrical supply to the bike and charges batt when voltage reaches the charging level (around 13.8V onwards). Disregarding interference and other factors to the bikes electronics, demand for electrical current changes whenever we open/close throttle. Generally, when we open throttle for faster acceleration, more fuel is injected into the combustion chamber for sparking, cycle/frequency of fuel injection and sparking are increased (higher demand for current), valves open/close in faster/tandem for air intake and exhaust, etc etc.; most of these are controlled by the ECU. Together with higher engine rpm, the magnetic coil also spins faster and generates higher voltage (capped at certain level according to spec).

 

Some commonly used capacitor products for bikes:

* Pivot Raizin 雷神 series; Raizin Voltage Stabilisers (Blue), Raizin Mega (Purple)

http://pivotjp.com/product/flame-raizin-e.html

* Power Abuser series “Current Stimulator”; PA2, PA Auto, PA Ignite, etc

http://www.equipmentextreme.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3

* RevTec Impedance Stabiliser

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/186567-RevTec-Impedance-Stabiliser-gt-Revolutionize-Your-Ride

* etc.

 

Some commonly used for cars:

* Pivot Raizin 雷神 series; Raizin Voltage Stabilisers (Blue), Raizin Mega (Purple), Raizin Spark (Red/Yellow), etc.

* Power Abuser Auto

* UTR Power Charger Evo Series

http://www.box.net/shared/sjrg9tzfhm

* Hot Inazuma Voltage Stabilizer

http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=33817

* D1 Spec Voltage Stabilizer

http://www.d1specusa.com/servlet/the-6/D1-Ground-Wires-Earthing/Detail

* etc.

 

Opposing Views:

There were many heated discussions about the use of capacitor based products in SBF and discussions somehow become arguments with conflicts of interests mixing in. A commonly raised question was, "if adding a smallish capacitor box does help performance, why didn't the manufacturers put it in from the beginning?"

Well, its up to individuals to believe or reject.

 

Some relevant threads (with debates) in SBF

* Raizin Voltage Stabilizers..

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98751

* Voltage Stabilizer

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131970

 

Example post of a happy user:

Hi guys, since last thursday after installing the PA2. My X8 does feel a lot of different now. Very smooth riding in regards of picking up speed or moving on constant speed at 90-100kmh. The FC has in fact improved from 250km to current 270km.. maybe it's my riding style.

 

The improvement are:

 

1) Better and smoother throttle respond

2) Previously riding at 100kmh @ 7500rpm but now can maintain at 6900-7100rpm.

3) Lights and leds are brighter than not installed.

4) Most importantly is the feeling of no more dragging of bike.. in fact

is the bike drag me... heehee�

 

This is my review on the PA. Or my feeling after installing. Maybe need somemore X8 to try the device up and give more review.

 

But I strongly recommended this device (no commission earned), just want all bikers to benefit and have fun with their bikes.

 

Example post of a non-believer:

t's just a bunch of capacitors hooked in parallel with the battery.

What you wrote is marketing hype and mostly nonsense.

 

ECU's are already protected against voltage differentials, and there is not enough storage capacity in the capacitors to make any meaningful difference at idle.

 

Once again, if it was a great idea with real value, the manufacturer would already have installed it.

 

How is it that a tiny company, with an advertising budget 10 times the size of it's R&D budget comes up with these magic "cures", while auto and bike manufacturers who spend billions each year on R&D can't figure this out? Answer: It is garbage.

 

Simple Facts About Capacitors, The Ingredients

A capacitor (or condenser) is a passive electronic component consisting of a pair of conductors separated by a dielectric (insulator). When a voltage is applied across the conductors, a static electric field develops in the dielectric and energy is stored in it.

Capacitors used in V/I Stabilisers & PA2 are likely "Reservoir Capacitors" which are commonly used in electrical systems to smoothen the outputs of a full or half wave rectifier. Such capacitors are connected in parallel with the power circuits to cover up current fluctuations from the primary power source (alternator-rectifiers systems) to provide a "cleaner" power supply to the ignition or electrical systems. Traditionally, several capacitors are added to audio systems to remove power line hums (or fluctuations) before it gets into the signal circuitry. The capacitors act as a local reserve for the DC power source, and bypass AC currents from the power supply. This is used in car audio applications, when a stiffening capacitor compensates for the inductance and resistance of the leads to the lead-acid car battery.

 

http://pivotjp.com/product/raizin/img/raizin-img1.jpg

http://www.g20.net/gallery/data/3336/4106IM000305.JPG

 

In simpler layman terms, the capacitors act as an additional "battery" that is connected in parallel and discharge current momentarily to cover the "trough" zones under stock setup. Remember that a bike's DC current from its magneto is obtained only after the rectifier "cuts away" one side of the original AC current. i.e. output becomes +1,0,+1,0,+1,0,... instead of +1,-1,+1,-1,+1,-1,... etc. The capacitors discharge their stored energy to cover the 0 zones.

With a more consistent current supply to the ignition system, the combustion cycles becomes more consistent (reducing vibrations) and more efficient as poor combustions due to otherwise weaker current (during the 0 zones) are reduced.

 

Regardless of all that are said, these are all theories or 纸上谈兵.

 

How to install a VS?

http://howtoinstallpivotvs.blogspot.com/

the unit acts as a "charged battery" connected in parallel to the bike's battery. thus, connect the unit's +ve lead to +ve terminal of battery and -ve lead to -ve terminal of battery.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_1BTd20vsq3o/RvhZ_Zehy0I/AAAAAAAAAB8/Ov9M7HLH_Ds/s1600/BasicWiring.jpg

Watch this

.

 

Scooby's Review:

I'm currently using both Raizin VS (Blue) and PA2 together with multi-point grounding on my car and bike respectively. All I can say is these rather affordable "investments" helped deliver a smoother drive/ride. Science and technology aside, I'm happy with the "Return on Investment" and wouldn't hesitate giving a positive feedback when asked, but only based on outcomes of my butt dyno

 

Basically, the effect I got out of adding the PA2/VS & grounding are slightly better response (less laggy and even better if iridium sparkies are used) and silkier engine, that's about it. IMO, they help by reducing inefficiencies in the otherwise stock setups which are not operating at optimal levels. Contrary to many marketing claim, I don't think they could deliver another few more horses, they just help "untie the ropes on the existing horses' legs". Regardless, I'm still happy with a smoother and more efficient ride/drive.

 

 

Purpose of Multipoint Grounding:

Other than adding the “magic box”, one of the most popular complementary add-ons could be multi-point grounding. While many riders claimed that fitting additional grounding cables are more useful in bigger capacity bikes, they are (together with VS) very popular among smaller bikes as well, e.g. the Honda TA200 Phantom. I rode a Phantom many years ago and adding them do helped a lot in reducing vibrations from the running engine; stock electrical system on that bike seems to be really sub-par.

 

Everything involving your car's electrical system - from nice, fat sparks in your ignition system to nice, fat bass in your subwoofers - requires a free flow of electrons to and from the battery. Good electrical performance requires a grounding system that's prepared to take a lot of current with minimal resistance. Your spark plugs, lights, fans, stereo, air conditioner, cigarette lighter, and so on all benefit from an elaborate electrical network that includes fuses, relays, and high-quality electrical cabling. They all share a common ground, however, and all too often a stock grounding system consists of just a couple of skinny braided cables that connect the chassis and engine to your battery's negative terminal. As these sorry connections rust out or come loose over time, the amount of conductive material decreases. This leads to resistance, as your car's electricity is forced to travel over less material. As your grounding wires deteriorate, resistance increases and all your electrical devices have to work that much harder to overcome that resistance. Even brand new cars can have problems with inadequate grounding, especially if you've installed lots of aftermarket electronics.

 

Good electrical performance requires a grounding system that's prepared to take a lot of current with minimal resistance. Your spark plugs, lights, fans, and so on all benefit from an elaborate electrical network that includes fuses, relays, and high-quality electrical cabling. Resistance, in the form of electrical impedance, is the enemy of your motorcycle's electrical equipment.

 

What are the potential benefits?

- Increased Torque

- Better Milage

- Quicker throttle response

- Smoother idle

- More starting power

- Brighter head light

 

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Sdq9VYbKL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41PkOy%2BhHAL._SS400_.jpg

 

So should I pay hundreds of dollars to buy professionally manufactured high-end grounding kits (e.g. Splitfire, HKS, etc) or simply DIY using high quality wires available at Sim Lim Tower for just a small fraction of the earlier?

Good grounding wires usually has very low impedance compared to ordinary wires and are often shielded by heat resistance materials. Their core are usually made of near-pure copper twisted wires; copper is commonly referred to as the best conductor of electrical current. Some kits also come with gold or silver plated distribution blocks and connectors but how much benefits are gained over the cost of using these luxurious materials make is debatable.

 

While the perfectionists with spare cash to splash could be convinced to go for the best, those with a budget can still achieve similar outcomes albeit some theoretical disadvantage using cheaper makes-n-models or DIY with good copper wires from Sim Lim. IMO, the difference isn't significant enough for me to break my piggy bank

 

The choice is up to individuals... to each their own

Edited October 13, 2011 by scoobydoo

[twistofthewrist]

Hi Guys,

 

I'm looking at getting a used Silverwing or Majesty 400.

 

Any info or advice re price, handling, spare parts etc will be appreciated.

 

Generally I know Hondas are better.

 

Thanks!

[scoobydoo]

long long time ago, a similar question was asked... check these out

 

[Comparison] Majesty vs Silverwing Discussion

 

Which Maxi for Singapore? (XEvo 400, SilverWing 400 or Scarabeo 500)

 

all in a nutshell... SW better than YP for touring, YP better than SW for city riding

my 0.00002 yen worth of opinion

Edited September 3, 2010 by scoobydoo

[LaZyChOo]

hi, I just bought a silverwing 400 (preowned) and I wanna find out what model it is. its registered in 2008. is there any difference in the model 07 and 08?

[scoobydoo]

revised:

* GT is Japan version and SW-T is Euro

* both launched in 2009 and are basically the same bird (compared to FJS/JDM) with a new body, but with some + & -

* both does not have 12V socket in the left glove compartment (unlike the FJS & JDM)

see kmkoon's contribution on difference between GT & SWT below

Silver Wing GT is Japam Version.. SW-T400 Euro Version....

 

Sliver Wing GT Blinker light cover is Orange...

SW-T400 BLinker light is transparent..

that's the different...

Edited September 13, 2010 by scoobydoo
update new info

[bigcow]

YP 400 runs on miles on speedo. Engine is Single cylinder SOHC. parts availability is very little. most of it need to place order. not many in Singapore. not many people go for this bike. thus resale is not good.

Silverwing engine is dual cylinder parallel. thus very good for touring. parts availability easy to get. and cheaper than the YP400. resale is the best in the 400cc cat.

[LaZyChOo]

hmmm. ok thanks for the info.

[LaZyChOo]

hey guys, another question. when starting engine need to depress brakes. my only start when left brakes depress. right brakes cannot start. anything wrong?

[SW9000]

hey guys, another question. when starting engine need to depress brakes. my only start when left brakes depress. right brakes cannot start. anything wrong?

 

Yup. Only left brake depressed then can start bike.

Anyway, can also disable it... someone later will post the steps.

[scoobydoo]

Our SW has 3 safety features before engine can start:

* Left brake must be depressed (there's a sensor at the left brake assembly)

* Side stand must be up

* Bike must be standing (not lying down)

 

imagine:

* brakes off, engine started and accidentally throttle up, bike move forward when rider and/or pillion not ready...

* side stand down, engine started and ride off, take corner then side stand "jamm" the ground...

 

IMO, better to leave them there although both could be disabled for convenience

Edited June 16, 2011 by scoobydoo

[LaZyChOo]

totally agree.... imagine you warm up bike and stand a side smoking and your friend walk over and say..."nice bike" and throttle... and your bike fly out to main road smashed my a lorry.

good deal.

[Elton]

as at Sep 2010, there're basically 4 types of Silver Wing 400 & 2 types of Silver Wing 600 on Singapore roads:

 

SW 400cc

* FJS400 Euro (before 2009) ... pic

* JDM400 Japan model

* FJS400 Euro (2009 model)

* GT400 Euro (2009 model) ... pic

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/honda_silver_wing_2009.php

http://www.hondamc.com/upload/Press/2009/SW-T400.pdf

 

notes:

. engines of all models are identical although the JDM's CVT "ratios" and rollers are slightly different (heard from old birds). but once you change the rollers, belt and variator plates, all becomes the same.

. JDM's ignition is very different from FJS's... JDM ignition key pic & FJS ignition key pic

. JDM has the "overdrive" switch on left throttle control but Euros don't; it enables the JDM bike to have more power when overtaking but burns a lot more fuel

. FJS Euro before 2009 and 2009 models are the same except that the later has some parts of its paintwork in matt black instead of glossy.

. GT (also know as SW-T) was launched in 2009 and is basically the same bird thing with a new body, but with some + & -

 

SW 600cc

* JDM600 Japan

* GT600 ... info

 

notes:

. although there's also the FSC600 US model, we don't think there's any here

. basically, all 600cc SW in Singapore other than the newly launched GT600 are JDMs

 

This info is very helpful. Thanks alot

[scoobydoo]

totally agree.... imagine you warm up bike and stand a side smoking and your friend walk over and say..."nice bike" and throttle... and your bike fly out to main road smashed my a lorry.

good deal.

this happed to one of our kakis (his cheeky friend didn't know CVT don't have free gear) but luckily not smashed by any lorry... but heartache is also bad to see swee swee bike smash the ground