Product : Brake Pads Discussion

[shoei]

Originally posted by hachi@Apr 24 2005, 02:09 PM

The pads I installed on ur bike were ceremic ones, u know?

Sintered pads wont cost less than $30...

u seems rather experienced with brakes.what kinda sinstered pads would u recommend?how much and where to get?

[hachi]

Originally posted by shoei@Apr 24 2005, 09:21 PM

u seems rather experienced with brakes.what kinda sinstered pads would u recommend?how much and where to get?

Wat bike are u riding?

The only sintered I have used is Vesrah sintered. Cost $35 at Eversucess.

Cos I think most of the sintered pads are over price.

But people using them said they are good....

 

I guess if u r using sintered should be fine as u see in the test.

But pls prep ur rotors and bleed the brake before installing.

 

Pls use 220 grit wet sand paper, circle sand the blades with water, and wipe clean with a damp cloth... no brake cleaners or solvents. This will take a good bunch of the material build up off of the rotors.

Which is very important but no one do it here...

The knowledge is from R1 forum oversea.....The forum oversea are more technical and entertaining..

Singapore is like....My friends say this good and mechs say this good that good but u ask them why they like Dont know leh....

 

So most of the time I do surf some overseas forums.

[hachi]

What makes Brake Pads work?

If you got to this section- You are a die-hard braking fanatic! - Congratulations! Now onto the SCIENCE OF BRAKING!

 

The simple answer is friction. BUT- that's only part of the answer!

Brake pads work with a combination of TWO FRICTION TECHNOLOGIES:

 

1) ABRASIVE FRICTION

This involves the braking of molecular bonds between the pad material and the iron in the brake disc. Pads that function on this basis (typically organic pads) tend to have a high wear-rate and low resistance to high-temperature brake fade.

2) ADHERENT FRICTION

Adherent friction is developed when a transfer-film of the same compound of the pad material is deposited as a very thin 'film' on the surface of the rotor.

In this instance, the friction is caused by a breaking of molecular bonds between the two like friction materials amongst themselves (one on the pad and one on the surface of the rotor)

Copy from website!

 

That why is important to prep ur rotors before a brake pads change as manufactuers uses different material for their brake pads. With all that material build up on the rotors, even u have the best brake pads it might not function as u wanted. Because of the difference of compound on the brake pad material itself..

But in Singapore the shops wont do it for u. And as soon as u ride the bedding starts and there is no way u have a good bedding in....

When the bedding is wrong in the first place how can u have good braking power or maximum the pads u installed?

 

So I suggest, start to DIY ur pads today.

[ET]

a technical question ahr...

 

I am riding a gsxr750,

 

i just changed my brake pads, change to steel braided hose, but at times my braking is still as bad as normal times when i did not change all these,

 

if i brake hard, it gives a squeak or the brake cant eat to the rotor itself..i suspect its the rotor or the disc brake which is not rite?

 

Its like when you try to brake, but you dont feel it cuming to a stop, then after you apply more pressure of the brakes, it eats and brakes immd, and this is kinda irrating, cause it disrupts my judgement of stopping in time.

 

hope someone can give some great technical answers.

[shoei]

thanks hachi.im using a tokico 6 potter for my bike.intent to change into better calipers in the near future.the reason why i intend to use sinstered pads is because i am told tat braking wave rotors must go with sinster pads.looks like sinster pads are more gentle to the rotors yet does give u the braking power u need

 

"Vesrah sintered. Cost $35 at Eversucess"--where is eversucess?does the price include installation?

[shoei]

anyway i do bleed my brake mc every six months.no prob with bleeding.one thing i know is that u have to use a set of new pads to go well with a set of new rotors too.for breaking in purposes.

[redname]

Originally posted by Stuntlover@Apr 25 2005, 05:43 AM

a technical question ahr...

 

I am riding a gsxr750,

 

i just changed my brake pads, change to steel braided hose, but at times my braking is still as bad as normal times when i did not change all these,

 

if i brake hard, it gives a squeak or the brake cant eat to the rotor itself..i suspect its the rotor or the disc brake which is not rite?

 

Its like when you try to brake, but you dont feel it cuming to a stop, then after you apply more pressure of the brakes, it eats and brakes immd, and this is kinda irrating, cause it disrupts my judgement of stopping in time.

 

hope someone can give some great technical answers.

maybe the new pads haven "season" yet? it might be due to dust at the rotors or brake pads also. bleeding can be another factor too

[hachi]

Originally posted by shoei@Apr 25 2005, 08:58 AM

thanks hachi.im using a tokico 6 potter for my bike.intent to change into better calipers in the near future.the reason why i intend to use sinstered pads is because i am told tat braking wave rotors must go with sinster pads.looks like sinster pads are more gentle to the rotors yet does give u the braking power u need

 

"Vesrah sintered. Cost $35 at Eversucess"--where is eversucess?does the price include installation?

Tokico 6 potter is enough for u.

So u r using ceremic pads in the past, then suggest u prep ur rotors before install new pads.

[hachi]

Originally posted by Stuntlover@Apr 25 2005, 05:43 AM

a technical question ahr...

 

I am riding a gsxr750,

 

i just changed my brake pads, change to steel braided hose, but at times my braking is still as bad as normal times when i did not change all these,

 

if i brake hard, it gives a squeak or the brake cant eat to the rotor itself..i suspect its the rotor or the disc brake which is not rite?

 

Its like when you try to brake, but you dont feel it cuming to a stop, then after you apply more pressure of the brakes, it eats and brakes immd, and this is kinda irrating, cause it disrupts my judgement of stopping in time.

 

hope someone can give some great technical answers.

If u just changed ur steel braided hose, there were cases that air was trapped in the banjo nuts area.

U have to open the banjo nut a bit on ur MC, to let out the air when bleeding the brake.

I do not u understand wat am I trying to say....

Just prep ur rotors and bleeding them. Might work.

Wat pads are u using now?

[ET]

Originally posted by hachi@Apr 25 2005, 12:20 PM

If u just changed ur steel braided hose, there were cases that air was trapped in the banjo nuts area.

U have to open the banjo nut a bit on ur MC, to let out the air when bleeding the brake.

I do not u understand wat am I trying to say....

Just prep ur rotors and bleeding them. Might work.

Wat pads are u using now?

:giddy:

 

but the installation of the steel braided was done at motorworld and the uncle did the bleeding twice already.

[hachi]

Originally posted by shoei@Apr 25 2005, 08:58 AM

thanks hachi.im using a tokico 6 potter for my bike.intent to change into better calipers in the near future.the reason why i intend to use sinstered pads is because i am told tat braking wave rotors must go with sinster pads.looks like sinster pads are more gentle to the rotors yet does give u the braking power u need

 

"Vesrah sintered. Cost $35 at Eversucess"--where is eversucess?does the price include installation?

The "Wave" rotor will run cooler and the design of the "Wave" will give you more leading and trailing edge then the OEm rotors, thus addidng additional bite for your rotors.

So I dont think u need to change calipers.

A MC change may help in this case will give you better feel and acutate your calipers sooner due to the larger pistons pushing the fluid faster to your caliper.

[hachi]

Originally posted by Stuntlover@Apr 25 2005, 12:24 PM

:giddy:

 

but the installation of the steel braided was done at motorworld and the uncle did the bleeding twice already.

Sounds like you have air bubbles in the line or MC. Make sure you are getting a good seal with new crush washers and re-bleed your brakes.

 

The banjo bolt at the handlebar tends to trap air bubbles which block the flow of fluid down to the callipers. Gently loosen the banjo while depressing the brake lever and you'll see fluid and bubbles escaping from around it. Make sure you cover all painted surfaces before that.

 

The copper washers need to be replaced rather than reused Uneven washes will let air get into the brake lines resulting in the absolute lack of feel and will cause bubbles during the bleeding process.

 

Repeat the bleeding process and then bleed the banjo bolt at the handle and your brakes will feel awesome in a short while

 

Sometimes Mech also dont care about things like this. That y I am learning hard for the brake conpenents and how they worked.

When I install my SS brake line they also put in DOT 3 brake oil and I changed the oil to DOT 5.1 by myself.

I installed speed bleeders and make life so much easier and use the whole bottle to flash the entire system.

But I still dont have the initial bike of my bro bike's pads and SS line setup which he used ferrodo plantium ceremic pads,Hel SS and motul 5.1 fully syn.

[hachi]

Ever Sucess

No. 17-19, LEMBU ROAD, singapore 208450

Tel:6292 5909

http://www.esparts.com.sg/

 

Price does not include installation.

[shoei]

Originally posted by hachi@Apr 25 2005, 01:17 PM

The "Wave" rotor will run cooler and the design of the "Wave" will give you more leading and trailing edge then the OEm rotors, thus addidng additional bite for your rotors.

So I dont think u need to change calipers.

A MC change may help in this case will give you better feel and acutate your calipers sooner due to the larger pistons pushing the fluid faster to your caliper.

yeah thanks for the advice.i already change my brake mc le

 

maybe its time for some braking wave rotors.

i heard its good.or maybe galfer.

 

[shoei]

Originally posted by hachi@Apr 25 2005, 12:17 PM

Tokico 6 potter is enough for u.

So u r using ceremic pads in the past, then suggest u prep ur rotors before install new pads.

prepare my rotors??

 

i believe i will install the new rotors with new pads.thats what u heard from braking agent(ideal)

[ET]

Originally posted by hachi@Apr 25 2005, 01:26 PM

Sounds like you have air bubbles in the line or MC. Make sure you are getting a good seal with new crush washers and re-bleed your brakes.

 

The banjo bolt at the handlebar tends to trap air bubbles which block the flow of fluid down to the callipers. Gently loosen the banjo while depressing the brake lever and you'll see fluid and bubbles escaping from around it. Make sure you cover all painted surfaces before that.

 

The copper washers need to be replaced rather than reused Uneven washes will let air get into the brake lines resulting in the absolute lack of feel and will cause bubbles during the bleeding process.

 

Repeat the bleeding process and then bleed the banjo bolt at the handle and your brakes will feel awesome in a short while

 

Sometimes Mech also dont care about things like this. That y I am learning hard for the brake conpenents and how they worked.

When I install my SS brake line they also put in DOT 3 brake oil and I changed the oil to DOT 5.1 by myself.

I installed speed bleeders and make life so much easier and use the whole bottle to flash the entire system.

But I still dont have the initial bike of my bro bike's pads and SS line setup which he used ferrodo plantium ceremic pads,Hel SS and motul 5.1 fully syn.

wooOO....OKOK...so need to rebleed again lar...i guess i will not go to motorworld and do it, maybe sanfu this time...motorworld sux, after serving twice there.

[shoei]

actually best is bleed it urself.thats what i did.only trust urself to do a good job

[hachi]

Originally posted by Stuntlover@Apr 26 2005, 05:31 AM

wooOO....OKOK...so need to rebleed again lar...i guess i will not go to motorworld and do it, maybe sanfu this time...motorworld sux, after serving twice there.

This case is very seldom occured.

U can tell bike shop ur problem....

But like shoei say I only trust myself to DIY this kind of things....

[Alvin.Y]

Originally posted by il4@Apr 22 2005, 05:26 PM

3rd.....if rotors start to have groove....then the problem is the owner himself/herself.

 

 

Hi il4

 

can u further clarify on that statement pls

 

personally i just check out my brakes/calipers and rotor today after experiencing a slighly whisting sound when i clutch in fully on the front brake.

Was told by my mech that the rotor is slightly uneven ( is that what u mean by wrap?) However he was unable to tell me what cause it, just saying that it happens.

I changed both my front brake pads for my S4 a month ago at his shop

[w3rT]

guys how much does DP brake pad cost for kr? juz the front..

[S4Sixty]

Originally posted by hachi@Apr 25 2005, 01:26 PM

I installed speed bleeders and make life so much easier

Where u bought these and how much ??

[hachi]

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/index....showtopic=69101

Read about it.

Is $US 7 per bleeder.

Took one week to send to mi.

Great product.

[bigcow]

Try the brand Braking. i just love it

[hachi]

Originally posted by bigcow@May 17 2005, 02:08 PM

Try the brand Braking. i just love it

Where u got it?

Online?

How much?

Thanks.

[MS]

Originally posted by hachi@May 17 2005, 06:51 PM

Where u got it?

Online?

How much?

Thanks.

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/index....showtopic=67373

 

As I read thru the polls result and I was astonished to see the results

EBC HH [ 26 ] [65.00%]

GOODRIDGE [ 0 ] [0.00%]

AP [ 4 ] [10.00%]

SBS [ 1 ] [2.50%]

CARBON LORINE [ 7 ] [17.50%]

LIM AH BOY BRAND [ 2 ] [5.00%]

Total Votes: 40

 

There're some brands I never used before so I can't say much. But I'd be pleased to rank them as acccordingly in terms of:

 

[Performance]

(Best) Carbone Lorraine~C43

 

(1st Runner up) AP supersport sintered (blue packet)

 

(2nd runner up) Carbone Lorraine~SBK3

 

(3rd runner up) EBC HH C

 

[Price c/w installations]

(Best) AP super sport sintered - $52/pair (4pots/2pads)

(1st Runner Up) EBC HHC - $55/pair (4pots/2pads)

(2nd Runner up) Carbone Lorraine~SBK3 $57/pair (4pot/2pads)

(3rd runner up) Carbone Lorraine~C43 $90/pair (4pot/2pads)

 

[Lifespan *inc approximately 100laps in PG]

(Best) EBC HH C - 18000km+

(Best) Carbone Lorraine~SBK3 - 18000km+

(2rd runner up) AP super sport sintered - 14000km+

(3rd runner up) Carbone Lorraine~C43 -

 

[Wear on rotors]

Carbone Lorraine~C43 - severe

Carbone Lorraine~SBK3 - average

AP sintered supersport - wears slightly faster than SBK3

EBC HH C - average