Rust Converter

[Sadnewbie]

Hi, does anyone have recommendation on rust converter? Doesn't have to be cheap but have to be good (as in apply once and forget about it)...

 

I saw a rust converter product with info on the back that says when applied the rust will change into a neutral black colour.. do all rust converters cause colour change? Is it better to sandpaper and use a clear sealer instead?

[CSV]

you can always sand first to remove the surface rust then apply the converter.

 

i personally don't use it though, just sanding to control the rusting rate. old bike mah.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Rust converters are available from most major hardware and DIY equipment stores like HomeFix and others.

 

At a glance you have two options for low cost anti-rust treatment.

 

First is the rust converter - relatively inexpensive but read the labels carefully. They require high temperature application, which is easy if you're painting out little bits of rust on say, an exhaust pipe mount, it's bound to be heated up after riding. But heating a rusted footrest to 200 deg Celsius, no thanks. I'd prefer something that works at room temperature and is easy to apply.

 

Which brings us to the second option - Hammerite.

 

http://www.icipaints.co.uk/files/images/img/img_can_hammerite.jpg

 

Hammerite is a rust treatment paint that unlike rust-converter chemicals, is designed to be easy to apply and works effectively at room temperature. It's actually designed for colder climates, since the recommended application temperature is 8 - 25 deg C.

 

I had the chance to evaluate Hammerite thanks to a friendly forumer ( @BLACK COMET ) - you just need a brush and minimal skill to apply Hammerite onto rusty parts, since the paint formulation automatically sticks to rust. If you miss the target, Hammerite is very easy to wipe off with a dry cloth.

 

For older bikes, Hammerite can transform rusted parts into sleek black items and while removing flakes of loose rust is recommended, you do not need to sand the surface flat. For parts such as footpegs, floorboards, even suspension components, just brush on and the paint automatically coats the part. No thinner required.

 

Let's say you have just bought a 10+ year old chopper bike and the bottom of the exhaust is all rusted - just paint a few coats of Hammerite and forget about it. Follow up with hi-temperature black spray paint if you want a blacked-out pipe (such as some newer US market bikes like the Shadow Phantom 750).

 

Hammerite comes in various colours and retails for about $13.50. One small can is enough for rust treatment for at least 8 2B bikes, so you don't need to spend a lot at all. A bit more pricey than the cheaper rust converters, but much, much easier to use.

 

Click here for some photos of Hammerite in action last week

Edited November 1, 2011 by Pandora's Kitten :3

[Sadnewbie]

you can always sand first to remove the surface rust then apply the converter.

 

i personally don't use it though, just sanding to control the rusting rate. old bike mah.

 

But keep sanding the metal will less and less how... in that case is it better to leave the rust alone as the metal might be taken out slower by the rust than sandpaper...?

[CSV]

unlikely. use finer grit sandpaper.

 

start with the rougher one first, then gradually move on to finer grit one. though i just might consider Pandora's hammerite solution since my backrest is quite rusted. never maintain that part since i paste my p plate sticker there.

 

but autosol and steel wool managed to remove some of it quite well. kudos to @Hydher for that suggestion.

[Sadnewbie]

Rust converters are available from most major hardware and DIY equipment stores like HomeFix and others.

 

At a glance you have two options for low cost anti-rust treatment.

 

First is the rust converter - relatively inexpensive but read the labels carefully. They require high temperature application, which is easy if you're painting out little bits of rust on say, an exhaust pipe mount, it's bound to be heated up after riding. But heating a rusted footrest to 200 deg Celsius, no thanks. I'd prefer something that works at room temperature and is easy to apply.

 

Which brings us to the second option - Hammerite.

 

http://www.icipaints.co.uk/files/images/img/img_can_hammerite.jpg

 

Hammerite is a rust treatment paint that unlike rust-converter chemicals, is designed to be easy to apply and works effectively at room temperature. It's actually designed for colder climates, since the recommended application temperature is 8 - 25 deg C.

 

I had the chance to evaluate Hammerite thanks to a friendly forumer ( @BLACK COMET ) - you just need a brush and minimal skill to apply Hammerite onto rusty parts, since the paint formulation automatically sticks to rust. If you miss the target, Hammerite is very easy to wipe off with a dry cloth.

 

For older bikes, Hammerite can transform rusted parts into sleek black items and while removing flakes of loose rust is recommended, you do not need to sand the surface flat. For parts such as footpegs, floorboards, even suspension components, just brush on and the paint automatically coats the part. No thinner required.

 

Let's say you have just bought a 10+ year old chopper bike and the bottom of the exhaust is all rusted - just paint a few coats of Hammerite and forget about it. Follow up with hi-temperature black spray paint if you want a blacked-out pipe (such as some newer US market bikes like the Shadow Phantom 750).

 

Hammerite comes in various colours and retails for about $13.50. One small can is enough for rust treatment for at least 8 2B bikes, so you don't need to spend a lot at all. A bit more pricey than the cheaper rust converters, but much, much easier to use.

 

Click here for some photos of Hammerite in action last week

 

Thanks for the heads up! I had no idea the normal rust converter need high temperature to apply. Ok that's too tricky to do for me.

 

Regarding Hammerite, does it not stick onto un-rusted parts at all or only when still wet? Can the wiping be done after dry so I don't accidently wipe off those on the rust? And if I sandpaper the rust off and apply Hammerite will it stick?

 

I'm puzzled over the need for hi-temp black spray paint, can I paint with Hammerite alone or need a layer of paint over the Hammerite to protect the Hammerite coating?

Thanks for typing so much info.

[iewnuj]

thumbs up to autosol, I use it too. cheap and good.

[fatboypin]

unlikely. use finer grit sandpaper.

 

start with the rougher one first, then gradually move on to finer grit one. though i just might consider Pandora's hammerite solution since my backrest is quite rusted. never maintain that part since i paste my p plate sticker there.

 

but autosol and steel wool managed to remove some of it quite well. kudos to @Hydher for that suggestion.

 

Rust converters are available from most major hardware and DIY equipment stores like HomeFix and others.

 

At a glance you have two options for low cost anti-rust treatment.

 

First is the rust converter - relatively inexpensive but read the labels carefully. They require high temperature application, which is easy if you're painting out little bits of rust on say, an exhaust pipe mount, it's bound to be heated up after riding. But heating a rusted footrest to 200 deg Celsius, no thanks. I'd prefer something that works at room temperature and is easy to apply.

 

Which brings us to the second option - Hammerite.

 

http://www.icipaints.co.uk/files/images/img/img_can_hammerite.jpg

 

Hammerite is a rust treatment paint that unlike rust-converter chemicals, is designed to be easy to apply and works effectively at room temperature. It's actually designed for colder climates, since the recommended application temperature is 8 - 25 deg C.

 

I had the chance to evaluate Hammerite thanks to a friendly forumer ( @BLACK COMET ) - you just need a brush and minimal skill to apply Hammerite onto rusty parts, since the paint formulation automatically sticks to rust. If you miss the target, Hammerite is very easy to wipe off with a dry cloth.

 

For older bikes, Hammerite can transform rusted parts into sleek black items and while removing flakes of loose rust is recommended, you do not need to sand the surface flat. For parts such as footpegs, floorboards, even suspension components, just brush on and the paint automatically coats the part. No thinner required.

 

Let's say you have just bought a 10+ year old chopper bike and the bottom of the exhaust is all rusted - just paint a few coats of Hammerite and forget about it. Follow up with hi-temperature black spray paint if you want a blacked-out pipe (such as some newer US market bikes like the Shadow Phantom 750).

 

Hammerite comes in various colours and retails for about $13.50. One small can is enough for rust treatment for at least 8 2B bikes, so you don't need to spend a lot at all. A bit more pricey than the cheaper rust converters, but much, much easier to use.

 

Click here for some photos of Hammerite in action last week

 

Wonderful information! Very timely esp since the past few weeks have been raining cats and dogs, rust is likely to visit our bikes given such wet conditions.

 

One thing about Hammerite, based on the pics, is that the paint does not coat onto the healthy metal, so the end effect is pretty much like patches of black paint?

[CSV]

yeah, from the pictures supplied, it seems that hammerite only sticks onto rust patches, so good metal will not be painted over.

 

essentially leaving patches of black. so to go over that issue, you can cover everything will high temp black spray paint.

 

hammerite comes in other color as well so you can "color coordinate" if thats what you want.

 

for out of sight areas, black is enough la, can leave it there no need to paint over since i doubt hammerite will degrade.

 

anyways, with regards to recent rain, just cover up your bike if possible, since step 1 of preventing rust is preventing water getting onto the bike.

 

proactive polishing, waxing and sanding will prolong your bike's shine.

[fatboypin]

Will have to see what colours are available for Hammerite (at the Self-Fix DIY shops right?). If there is matt black, will want to consider painting over my exhaust which is starting to rust. I saw from the pics that the Hammerite is applied over the chrome exhaust, so I presume it can also tahan heat? If not, will just sand off the rust.

 

An idea just popped up, does it make sense to share a can of mutually agreed colour since it will be impossible for one guy to finish an entire can... and makes more economical sense too. Matt black, anyone?

 

Autosol wont work for me because I do not have chrome parts.

 

Re rain, it is not so much of parking under shelter (mine is in a MSCP), but the rides during which you are caught out in a sudden and heavy downpour. Surely wet. Socks and underwear too.

Edited November 2, 2011 by fatboypin
Autosol

[fatboypin]

I just spent a good part of the afternoon sanding away the rusty parts on the exhaust. Lots of work but it is worth it in the end. Managed to sand off the rust until the joints/surfaces are smooth, cleaned off with Selleys and then sprayed a generous amt of the Selleys over the area to minimise further rusting.

 

In addition, the edges of the exhaust are also sanded till the original metallic grey appears amidst the black coated exhaust. Looks so much nicer and rugged now. I like it!

 

I wont be getting the Hammerite already. It is more fun and fulfilling to be sanding away the rust and then getting a rugged finish for the parts. But must have the spare time for this process though.

 

Cheers.

Edited November 2, 2011 by fatboypin
grammar...

[Sadnewbie]

I just spent a good part of the afternoon sanding away the rusty parts on the exhaust. Lots of work but it is worth it in the end. Managed to sand off the rust until the joints/surfaces are smooth, cleaned off with Selleys and then sprayed a generous amt of the Selleys over the area to minimise further rusting.

 

In addition, the edges of the exhaust are also sanded till the original metallic grey appears amidst the black coated exhaust. Looks so much nicer and rugged now. I like it!

 

I wont be getting the Hammerite already. It is more fun and fulfilling to be sanding away the rust and then getting a rugged finish for the parts. But must have the spare time for this process though.

 

Cheers.

 

fatboypin, which selleys product did you use? Is it a lubricant or something that gives a more permanent protection?

[fatboypin]

fatboypin, which selleys product did you use? Is it a lubricant or something that gives a more permanent protection?

 

It's a multipurpose spray. Selleys RP7. In a green spraycan. Initially I wanted to get WD40, but an old hat at the bikeshop suggested I use this instead.

 

Can be found even at the market hardware store together with WD40, or even NTUC.

 

I use it on my window joints as well. I see it as a kind of solvent to remove most dirt, grime and slight rust (on my window joints). It kind of leaves a thin layer of oil as protection, I think. But the problem is that since the rusty parts are on my exhaust, once the engine is started, there will be slight smoke emanating from these parts (I suppose evaporation of the oil layer) but nothing serious.

 

Do you use WD40? If yes, how is it? If it is not too bad, I dun mind buying WD40 next time since my RP7 is running low already.

[CSV]

actually autosol can be used on chrome as well. almost all metal surface. just have to watch what is the abrasive medium you're using.

 

steel wool is fine since it is softer than most metal. and it really works fantastic on the exhaust.

 

i remember before i used it, my exhaust was rusty as hell, brown spots here and there. after going through with autosol, like brand new and shiny.

[Sadnewbie]

It's a multipurpose spray. Selleys RP7. In a green spraycan. Initially I wanted to get WD40, but an old hat at the bikeshop suggested I use this instead.

 

Can be found even at the market hardware store together with WD40, or even NTUC.

 

I use it on my window joints as well. I see it as a kind of solvent to remove most dirt, grime and slight rust (on my window joints). It kind of leaves a thin layer of oil as protection, I think. But the problem is that since the rusty parts are on my exhaust, once the engine is started, there will be slight smoke emanating from these parts (I suppose evaporation of the oil layer) but nothing serious.

 

Do you use WD40? If yes, how is it? If it is not too bad, I dun mind buying WD40 next time since my RP7 is running low already.

 

Thanks bro. I haven't used anything at the moment... I was thinking of removing the rust via sandpapering and the protect it with something more permanent.. like maybe hammerite but then I quite like the chrome part shiny also so also considering a high-temperature clear coat as well.

[fatboypin]

Thanks bro. I haven't used anything at the moment... I was thinking of removing the rust via sandpapering and the protect it with something more permanent.. like maybe hammerite but then I quite like the chrome part shiny also so also considering a high-temperature clear coat as well.

 

I think Autosol can remove rust and then polishes to a nice shine (used to polish my school badge with it). But as for protection, I think maybe not much cos the school badge will tarnish after a few days.

 

Do share if the Hammerite works.

 

Where can we find the high temp paint/spray?

[Sadnewbie]

I think Autosol can remove rust and then polishes to a nice shine (used to polish my school badge with it). But as for protection, I think maybe not much cos the school badge will tarnish after a few days.

 

Do share if the Hammerite works.

 

Where can we find the high temp paint/spray?

 

I'm pretty sure Hammerite will work because even normal paint should seal the exposed metal pretty well and rust needs water and oxygen to happen, and since hammerite is specially formulated to paint on rust it should work well.. the downside is probably only that you can't see the metal below (for example chrome) if you like how it originally looked.

 

As for a high temp clear coat, I haven't start looking for it but pretty sure they can be found though perhaps not easily. In the worst senario can always try a normal clear coat and if it doesn't work out then can still spray hi temp black over it as last resort.

[Hydher]

Thanks pandora for the review on the product.

Ive been wanted to do them on my pillion Footrest, some nuts and bolts and the heel shifted i just had welded on.

Its always better to sand it off. A cheaper alternative would be applying primer followed by an enamel paint.

A small can of enamel is $2.50 and primer i assume would cost about as much.

 

I dont know about applying on an exhaust though. Probably the above products shared are not high temp approved. It will smell funky for the next 1-2k kms at junctions. hahaha

About using selleys, prob just like the wd40, the thin oil will evaporate over time and your parts will rust twice as fast. Its frustrating. Engine oil will run off quick too. Waxing might help. I'm currently using meguiars mag and alu polish. Its less abrasive then auto sol and works better. Its hell expensive though. Like $20 for the darned can.

 

Wd40 may be good to remove gum and tar but ultimately, strips your metal from everything and the oily film attracts dust.

[CSV]

meguairs scracthx 2.0. anyone use that to remove scratches? does it work?

[fatboypin]

Thanks pandora for the review on the product.

Ive been wanted to do them on my pillion Footrest, some nuts and bolts and the heel shifted i just had welded on.

Its always better to sand it off. A cheaper alternative would be applying primer followed by an enamel paint.

A small can of enamel is $2.50 and primer i assume would cost about as much.

 

I dont know about applying on an exhaust though. Probably the above products shared are not high temp approved. It will smell funky for the next 1-2k kms at junctions. hahaha

About using selleys, prob just like the wd40, the thin oil will evaporate over time and your parts will rust twice as fast. Its frustrating. Engine oil will run off quick too. Waxing might help. I'm currently using meguiars mag and alu polish. Its less abrasive then auto sol and works better. Its hell expensive though. Like $20 for the darned can.

 

Wd40 may be good to remove gum and tar but ultimately, strips your metal from everything and the oily film attracts dust.

 

Hard to find a suitable protective layer for hot surfaces. Funky smell is the issue, and some smoke too.

[fatboypin]

Hard to find a suitable protective layer for hot surfaces. Funky smell is the issue, and some smoke too.

 

After trying around, I guess I have no choice but to use sandpaper and then spraying a layer of oil as a stop-gap measure. No choice.

[jayz]

hi. wat about crash bar? will the hammerite work on it? mine is chrome and rusty now. was thinking of self spraying it with blue color. if it works then all i do is buy hammerite(blue color, if there it blue) then apply it on, spray it with blue color spray and thats it? no need sanding? anw i just posted a QnA in the s4 QnA thread on how to self spray, then i saw this thread. alamak.

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

hi. wat about crash bar? will the hammerite work on it? mine is chrome and rusty now. was thinking of self spraying it with blue color. if it works then all i do is buy hammerite(blue color, if there it blue) then apply it on, spray it with blue color spray and thats it? no need sanding? anw i just posted a QnA in the s4 QnA thread on how to self spray, then i saw this thread. alamak.

 

Can. Use hammerite paint on rusted surfaces first, then use metal primer on the whole crashbar. Lastly do your top coats.

 

If you need hammerite don't buy, get from me FOC. One can of hammerite can use on many bikes.

 

I will also be doing hi temp exhaust painting soon and will be buying metal primer also. Can share.

 

Sent from my hong kong gangsta phone using Tapatalk

[jayz]

Can. Use hammerite paint on rusted surfaces first, then use metal primer on the whole crashbar. Lastly do your top coats.

 

If you need hammerite don't buy, get from me FOC. One can of hammerite can use on many bikes.

 

I will also be doing hi temp exhaust painting soon and will be buying metal primer also. Can share.

 

Sent from my hong kong gangsta phone using Tapatalk

 

oh good. then u can help me with my crash bar too. pm or sms me when you plan to do it? we could meet up. but i dont hv all the necessary items and tools yet. eg. the paint. and i dunno how to take out my crash bar too. btw i would like to join ur fri night group riding this fri. sms me 96756494

[Pandoras Kitten 3]

Ok look forward to meeting your VTEC1 later this week. I'm getting the supplies tonight and will sms you what's available colour-wise for hi temp paint. I'm presuming your S4 crashbars are the 'form fitting' type which sits very closely to the engine block. If so, you definitely need hi-temp paint for the bars.

 

Hammerite by itself is not hi-temp rated but we've used it successfully for S4 headers and ah pek bike (LC125, TA200) frame and exhaust. Strangely, it seems to survive hi temperatures perfectly.