Product : Engine Oil Discussion

[Mark C.]

and me too too

[Mark C.]

Originally posted by stsoh@Feb 9 2005, 09:31 PM

did the max-cycle motorcycle oil price went up (last oct'04 was S$16)?

 

if u ask for my opinion, i still say RP max-cycle motorcycle oil is the best for my bike.

 

i used RP max-cycle motorcycle until my recommended oil change at 4000 km n it felt at time of oil change just like castrol R4 (when new).

 

currently trying out silkolene fuchs 4t pro plus, not as slick but still new oil, running for about 1000 km now.

 

my advise don't use oil for cars (motor oil), they r not design for bike usage, spend a little bit more n it is worth the amount.

if u really want to save $$$, use semi-syn oil for bikes rather then use motor oil.

 

Note of caution: Motor oil do not contains zinc and phosphorous, as these metals are hard on your car's catalytic converters. They're substituting molybdenum disulfide, which lowers friction and improves gas mileage. It also causes problems for people with wet clutches, that is most motorcycles.

hi stsoh,

so now u tryin fuchs pro 4 huh?

which 1 u prefer, Rp max cycle or pro 4?

can give commend on this 2? Btw, where u buy yr Rp and how much?

Thanks!!

[stsoh]

Originally posted by Mark C.@Feb 26 2005, 03:56 PM

hi stsoh,

so now u tryin fuchs pro 4 huh?

which 1 u prefer, Rp max cycle or pro 4?

can give commend on this 2? Btw, where u buy yr Rp and how much?

Thanks!!

i still prefer Royal Purple Max-Cycle Motorcycle Oil, it is much smoother/slicker than fuchs and pls don't use RP motor(car) oil for ur bike.

[sg]

Any engine oil for motor bike carries 15W 40 and 20W 40? Where to get them? Thanks.

[stsoh]

Originally posted by sg@Feb 26 2005, 05:13 PM

Any engine oil for motor bike carries 15W 40 and 20W 40? Where to get them? Thanks.

from ur description, u can buy any motorcycle oil tat end with '40' from any bike shops.

the front digit stands for 'winter' which don't really matters for our climate.

 

'W' stands for winter, for example:

5W is able to pour(flow) at temp. -25 deg C

15W is able to pour(flow) at temp. -10 deg C

20W is able to pour(flow) at temp. -0 deg C, this grade oil will frozen solid if temp fall below 0 deg.

 

last digit '40' at operating temp. >100deg C, flow is at 40 viscosity.

as for '50' is thicker, stands for 50 viscosity flow rate at operating temp.

[RxzDelux]

Originally posted by sg@Feb 26 2005, 05:13 PM

Any engine oil for motor bike carries 15W 40 and 20W 40? Where to get them? Thanks.

What bike u riding?

 

15W40 can get the Castrol Power1 4T with the picture of David BeckHam on the bottle.

 

20W40 can try the SPC 4T EXTRA 20W40 or SPC 4T PLUS 20W40 or SPC 4T Super 20W40.

 

For Castrol Power1 4T I guess a lot of workshops got sell dat.

 

For SPC 4T can get at all SPC petrol kiosks.

 

 

Good Luck bro....

[sg]

hey thanks alot.

[Bunta]

Originally posted by HondaSF@Sep 10 2004, 08:40 PM

If i not wrong, TOTAL is not fully syn. Its semi syn. Gd & Cheap...

 

Heard from most of e bike shop said that

new bike is better 2 use fully syn(5-40/50,10-40/50)

older bike use semi syn(10-40/50,15-40/50)

10yrs bike semi syn or normal syn(15-40/50,20/50)

 

Correct me if wrong...

Help guys !

 

Anyone knows what happened to Carrefour's Total Semi-syn 4T that's selling below $5 ??

 

I went there, and surprised to see them selling Total Racing 2T only. My only source of cheap Semi-syn oil is gone.... anyone knows any where to get cheap Semi-syn oil ? Thanks !!!

[Mark C.]

Originally posted by stsoh@Feb 26 2005, 05:01 PM

i still prefer Royal Purple Max-Cycle Motorcycle Oil, it is much smoother/slicker than fuchs and pls don't use RP motor(car) oil for ur bike.

so where did you get yr RP, and the price?

may like to try..

thks!

[suix]

Could anyone kindly tell me where to get the FUCH Pro 4 Plus Engine Oil?

[william_liu]

http://www.fuchs.com.sg/fuchsshop/default.asp

 

[sg]

I always found that it is difficult to find the best oil if these three factors are always not match by the makers (At your own choice):

 

1. Makers Brand;

2. Fully Synthetic, Synthetic and Non Synthetic;

3. Vecoscity Index.

 

Does anyone uses a Castrol 15W 40 oil before? How it is like? Thanks.

[standlee]

Originally posted by william_liu@Feb 28 2005, 10:15 AM

http://www.fuchs.com.sg/fuchsshop/default.asp

 

u tried odering from them b4??? cos i have this phobia of online transaction.

[william_liu]

Can order through phone as well if I'm not mistaken!

[standlee]

Originally posted by william_liu@Feb 28 2005, 05:01 PM

Can order through phone as well if I'm not mistaken!

its sillypore based??

[william_liu]

Yup!

[standlee]

Originally posted by william_liu@Feb 28 2005, 05:31 PM

Yup!

ok, ll give it a try

[Leewee]

so end of the day? which is better ? RP max cycle or motul ? how's the difference in performance anyone? anyone tried these 2? if pickup faster on the castrol R4? I don't mind paying a few dollars more just to keep my bike in good condition and performing better

[redname]

Originally posted by Leewee@Apr 9 2005, 08:10 PM

so end of the day? which is better ? RP max cycle or motul ? how's the difference in performance anyone? anyone tried these 2? if pickup faster on the castrol R4? I don't mind paying a few dollars more just to keep my bike in good condition and performing better

out of the 3 choices u gave, motul is better

[BikeLover]

Need some of your wise words. Heard some mechanics say thick oil is good for 4T engine. Some say thin is better. So much contradiction. Quite interesting.

[frz]

thick oil provide more protection and heat up slowly. thin oil provide lesser protection but provide better accelation thus heat up faster.

hope this help

[stsoh]

most bike manufacturers recommends 10w-40 grade for singapore climate but in cold climate will be 0w-30. here an article about viscosity:

 

================================

WHAT IS VISCOSITY?

 

Viscosity is defined as resistance to flow. It is the ability of the oil to stick to a metal surface, especially when the engine is turned off. Viscosity breakdown is when the oil gets so dirty, thin or sludged up, that it can't cling to metal surfaces anymore when the engine is not running or when it is hot. Oddly enough, oil does not wear out, it just gets dirty and loses its ability to stick to the metal components of the engine. This is why oil needs to be changed at regular intervals.

 

Viscosity is rated at 0° F, represented by the number preceding the "W" [for Winter]) and at 212° F (represented by the second number in the viscosity designation). Motor oil thins as it heats and thickens as it cools. So, with the right additives to help it resist thinning too much, an oil can be rated for one viscosity when cold, another when hot. The more resistant it is to thinning, the higher the second number. Within reason, thicker oil generally seals better and maintains a better film of lubrication between moving parts.

 

At the low-temperature end, oil has to be resistant to thickening so that it flows more easily to all the moving parts in your engine. Also, if the oil is too thick the engine requires more energy to turn the crankshaft, which is partly submerged in a bath of oil. Excessive thickness can make it harder to start the engine, which reduces fuel economy. A 5W oil is typically what's recommended for winter use. However, synthetic oils can be formulated to flow even more easily when cold, so they are able to pass tests that meet the 0W rating.

 

 

Viscosity is defined as resistance to flow. It is the ability of the oil to stick to a metal surface, especially when the engine is turned off. Viscosity breakdown is when the oil gets so dirty and thin that it can't cling to metal surfaces anymore when the engine is not running.

 

The worst wear on an engine is when it is first started. When oil gets old and dirty, it loses its ability to stick to engine surfaces when the engine is shut off, probably the most important function of oil. All the oil leaves the engine metal surfaces and runs to the bottom of the engine into the oil pan. When the engine is restarted, it can take several seconds, or more of the oil is old and dirty, for the oil to be sent back up through the engine, especially to the top part of the engine farthest from the pan. In this short period of time, severe damage can be done, and it is multiplied every time the engine is started with the old, dirty oil.

 

Another critical problem is that oil removes heat from the engine. If the oil is thin or dirty, the heat buildup starts gluing the old, dirty oil to parts of the engine creating what is called sludge. This sludge blocks the movement of the oil through the engine. It clogs up the oil flow channels which can be as small as a sewing needle, causing further problems, until the wear is so bad that the engine, whole or part, fails.

[BikeLover]

Thanks bros. Quite chim. Now, finally I know the W stands for, and it is not watts... kekeke.

[redname]

Originally posted by BikeLover@Apr 10 2005, 04:51 PM

Thanks bros. Quite chim. Now, finally I know the W stands for, and it is not watts... kekeke.

huh? u mean u thot it was watts ah? haha, great imagination

 

last time i didn't know also didn't tink so far

[standlee]

infomative