Product : Engine Oil Discussion

[tealeaf]

where is retailing redline engine oil?

[stsoh]

Originally posted by tealeaf@May 17 2005, 09:14 AM

where is retailing redline engine oil?

Get them at MotorX, 230 Tanjong Katong Road.

[redname]

Originally posted by tealeaf@May 17 2005, 09:14 AM

where is retailing redline engine oil?

contact il4 thru pm, he got lobang also

[overcrash]

any place up north or central to get this royal purple brand ?

i staying in hougang.

thanks

[tealeaf]

Originally posted by redname@May 17 2005, 10:47 AM

contact il4 thru pm, he got lobang also

his lobang cheaper then motoX?

[tealeaf]

Originally posted by stsoh@May 17 2005, 10:03 AM

Get them at MotorX, 230 Tanjong Katong Road.

they moved?

 

where's tanjong katong road, near any major landmark?

[stsoh]

Originally posted by tealeaf@May 18 2005, 12:37 PM

they moved?

 

where's tanjong katong road, near any major landmark?

i think is share with a pet shop, read this on how to get there.

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/index....dpost&p=1761462

[redname]

Originally posted by tealeaf@May 18 2005, 12:32 PM

his lobang cheaper then motoX?

i dnt know motorx sell how much

[ko_thet]

please tell me..sth.. if i use full syn (any) instead of using 4T, will it be effected to my engine performance?? thanks!

cheers !

[stsoh]

Originally posted by ko_thet@May 24 2005, 10:06 AM

please tell me..sth.. if i use full syn (any) instead of using 4T, will it be effected to my engine performance?? thanks!

cheers !

if u r comparing semi-syn to full-syn, it is the quality of oil tat is make from.

full-syn provides better protections n performance for ur engine.

most full-syn eo based on POA, ester or poly ester (best n most expensive).

don't buy those hydrocrack type tat claim to be full-syn, these r only dino oil based, it is the same as semi-syn (castrol r famous to have use this method for manufacturing their full-syn eo).

[Wen Qiang]

help, my krr150 coolant water seal i think is broken and it drips water into my engine oil. any idea hw much would it cost to repair and where moto-tiam does this? thanks alot.

[il4]

...........................

Edited February 17, 2016 by il4

[stsoh]

Originally posted by ko_thet@May 24 2005, 10:06 AM

please tell me..sth.. if i use full syn (any) instead of using 4T, will it be effected to my engine performance?? thanks!

cheers !

This one i pickup from ELF:

 

Why choose a synthetic oil ?

Semi-synthetic and synthetic oils are made from non-conventional bases using sophisticated chemical processes which confer special properties to the finished product. First, the high level of viscosity of the base oils used gives the finished lubricant remarkably stable viscosity whatever the temperature. This property is one of its major advantages over mineral oils, made from conventional bases which require a greater number of additives in order to improve viscosity. The stability of lubrication in all temperatures guarantees optimum efficacy in the cold starting phase which is particularly demanding on the engine ? as well as under conditions of extreme heat. Synthetic-based lubricants show greater resistance to oxidation, which gives them longer effective life thus guaranteeing longer engine life. The use of non-conventional bases, finally, permits the elaboration of more fluid lubricants, without being more volatile; resulting in a reduction of oil consumption.

 

Therefore, choosing a synthetic based oil is the technologically advance choice, for greater efficacy, longevity and controlled oil consumption.

[stsoh]

Another pointer pickup from ELF FAQ:

 

Can I use car engine oil in my motorcycle ?

No, because motorcycle four-stroke engines do not operate under the same conditions as those of cars (higher engine rpm and temperature). The engine lubricant can also be used to lubricate the gearbox and the clutch, which requires a formula with EXTREME-PRESSURE ADDITIVES. On the other hand, passenger vehicle lubricants contain DETERGENT ADDITIVES with a high ash content. In motorcycle engines, these cause deposits to form on the valve train and the piston crowns, which can result in valve burning or piston perforation (piston perforation means piston burnt-a-hole).

[stsoh]

Mineral vs. Synthetic: The Facts

 

European oils use different additives because they have to meet European (ACEA) specifications that US oils do not. Any oil that meets the requirements listed in the bike's manual is good enough. Engine failure is rarely caused by oil failure, usually due to lack of oil or dirty oil. To paraphrase a previous thread: Fresh oil is better than Dirty Oil which is better than No Oil.

 

Synthetic vs. Mineral Oil:

 

Back in 1998, Mobil filed suit against Castrol for falsely advertising Syntec oil as synthetic, when in fact it contained a highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil instead of a chemically synthesized basestock. Due to the amount that the mineral oil had been chemically changed, the judge decided that Mobil lost that suit. As a result (except in Germany), any oil containing this highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil (currently called Group III basestock by the American Petroleum Institute) can market themselves as a synthetic oil. Since the original synthetic basestock (polyalphaolefin or PAO) costs approximately 3 times as much as the Group III basestock, most of the oil blenders switched to the Group III basestock, which significantly increased their profit margins (the price of synthetic oils didn't drop, as I recall, to accommodate this cheaper basestock, which makes up >70% of a bottle of oil). In Europe, blenders still need to use some PAO in order to meet the toughest ACEA specs. In the US, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Red Line and Royal Purple are the only ones I am SURE OF still using PAO. If you can get a material safety data sheet (MSDS) for the oil you are interested in, look for PAO or polymer or oligomer of 1-decene as a component for a tip-off. Synthetic blends contain some amount (not defined, as far as I know) of synthetic basestock. The small amount of viscosity modifier present in most multi-grade oils probably fulfils this requirement, making synthetic blends another profit centre for the oil blenders.

 

Blending Oils:

 

PAO-based and mineral oil-based oils are compatible. There are a few synthetics that are not (these are ester-based oils, not suitable for or sold for everyday driving). Again, check the MSDS. However, there are at least 4 different companies that provide the additive packages that are blended into oils. Mixing these 4 different additive technologies can be bad (at least long-term). I am assuming that if you stay with the same brand/company's oil (Synth vs. Dino) there shouldn't be too much problem, but mixing oils is not a good practice.

 

Synthetic basestocks:

 

There are 4 major PAO producers: BP Chemical (merchant supplier), Chevron-Phillips Chemical (merchant supplier), Neste (European merchant supplier), Exxon-Mobil (mostly internal use by Mobil). Of course, most of the big oil companies (and a few others) produce the highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil synthetic.

 

 

PAO Advantages:

Extremely good low temperature viscosity (in case you want to start your bike at -40C or -40F).

Clean engine internals (downside: can also clean up crud from damaged seals in older engines, possibly allowing damaged seals to leak).

Low volatility (have to top up oil less).

More stable at extremely hot temperatures.

 

 

Group III (Dino) advantages:

Better profit margin for blenders, but can still be marketed as synthetic

Meets minimum oil specifications (as do regular oils)

Low volatility.

May be better (in some cases) to break in a new/rebuilt engine

 

 

Regular engine oils:

Meet all warranty specifications (be sure to read your manual for specifics)

Less expensive

Less protection in EXTREME use

 

 

Energy-conserving:

Avoid them in wet clutch motorcycles!

[calyban]

Here's my short report of ELF fully syth on my s4 ver s:

 

-smoothness is not comparable to R4, though gear shifting is softer and acceleration feel more torquy, powerful (but could be just cos i changed my plugs).

-heat transfer definitely not too gd, cos not hot when riding, but once u stop (engine off) after a 15 min rid, the bike starts cooking, and i really mean balls-sizzling hot (not gd when u have frequent start/stops). Guess all the heat's trapped in the engine when its running, but starts gushing out all over when the radiator fan stops.

 

btw i did slightly over 1000km only.

[CCK]

Originally posted by Tyrian@Sep 6 2004, 03:08 PM

motobest engine oil

 

heard dat one of my colleague bought it, his fren heard the engine sound, he oso bought the engine oil...

 

http://www.cni.com.my/cni/prodInfo.do?acti...prodSubCat=0406

I am now using it and it seem good to me. Still moniting the EO now. So far so good.

[299]

which EO can use for more mileage?

[seekie]

hi all,

 

just a small update.

just went to tai hee at tanjong pagar there to get royal purple eo for bikes.

but its out of stock! i asked them when restock then the fella not sure if want to restock cos price increase to abt $18, so they dunno want to take in or not.

but if its the $10 eo for car still a lot.

 

hope this info helps.

[alanhim]

So for 2 stroke bike is it better to user fully syn oil or gear oil ha? Anyone? Any advice Pls?

[duckit]

hmm so what engine oil u guys recommand for spec 1 ? newbie here .

= )

[alanhim]

Anyone help Pls.? For 2 stroke bike is it better to use fully syn oil or gear oil? Any difference?

[newbie04]

Hmm so which EO consider the BEST tat gives engine the best protection? oso provide the best smoothness...

FUCH Sikolene Pro 4?

Motul 300v?

Castrol R4?

Maxima extra?

Esso gold?

Redline?

 

btw is castrol r4 izit a Group III (Dino) oil?

[ET]

I just changed my engine oil to maxima extra 10w 40, i TELL YOU ITS THE BEST ENGINE OIL I HAVE CHANGED SO FAR...even smoother than fuch to some extend from the start, so what i can say is i will review it after i reach 3000km and see whether the roughness is there or not...

[alanhim]

Originally posted by ET@Aug 10 2005, 09:00 PM

I just changed my engine oil to maxima extra 10w 40, i TELL YOU ITS THE BEST ENGINE OIL I HAVE CHANGED SO FAR...even smoother than fuch to some extend from the start, so what i can say is i will review it after i reach 3000km and see whether the roughness is there or not...

Is you bike 2 stroke or 4 stroke ha? Where you change from ha and how much did you pay for your EO?

Thanks.