Product : Engine Oil Discussion

[superspeed123]

I believe Belray and Synergy are also ester based EO.

[slayer2cool]

I believe Belray and Synergy are also ester based EO.

 

Brands that makes ester based magic oil:

1) Motul - French and one of the most pricest

2) Maxima - USA and one of the cheapest ester based with tonnes of ZDDP. API SG only though

3) Ipone - French and smells nice and mid level price range

4) Belray - USA and can be quite expensive, close to motul price range. Has both good and bad reviews

5) Redline - USA and one of the most affordable ester based stuff similar to Maxima, according to the site, has tonnes of ZDDP too but somehow API specs are higher

6) Xrev - I have no idea, is it local? think its quite new in the market, has a few good reviews but could just be gimmick, quite good pricest too.

7) Synergy - I have no idea also. Heard of them before but i think poor marketing

Edited August 1, 2013 by slayer2cool

[Isopropyl]

Most good quality synthetic oil will contain some ester. Even mobil 1 and amsoil contain ester. As mentioned, ester does not magically turn the oil into something special and it the whole package that count. Alot of company just use ester as an marketing tool. Redline and maxima is the well know ones that is truly majority ester oil base.

 

Anyway, I have not seem any convincing evidence that synthetic oil perform better then conventional oil for most situation. I will be happy to pay more for the oil if there is. Until then, I sticking to my $7-$8 oil:cheeky:

[slayer2cool]

Most good quality synthetic oil will contain some ester. Even mobil 1 and amsoil contain ester. As mentioned, ester does not magically turn the oil into something special and it the whole package that count. Alot of company just use ester as an marketing tool. Redline and maxima is the well know ones that is truly majority ester oil base.

 

Anyway, I have not seem any convincing evidence that synthetic oil perform better then conventional oil for most situation. I will be happy to pay more for the oil if there is. Until then, I sticking to my $7-$8 oil:cheeky:

 

I agree esters are good but it's not a miracle cure. Though I firmly believe that synthetic offer so much more compared to mineral. Maybe for us we can't really appreciate it cos we don't really push our bike to the extreme. Hahaha and not to mention the extended drain interval.

[naim]

true la. most conventional oil works just fine. its just that most riders follow their "butt-dyno" and paying over $30 a litre makes them feel better that they are feeding their bikes with the best. and most of us change oils too early anyway, thus not taking advantage of the synthetic oil.

[Isopropyl]

yeah. synthetic really shine with the following conditions. i doubt most of us will ever need it.

 

1) Protection under heavy load

2) extreme temperature (Hot or cold)

3) Extended oil drain interval

 

but well, anything that make you feel good is money well spend:thumb:

[Isopropyl]

i think Group III isnt so bad nowdays, has come a long way and improved alot but i think too much of a good thing can be bad too so maybe that why motul dont really use that much ester hahaha. and i guess psychologically when you see the word motul, castrol or maxima on race competition bike, you really would think it be the best stuff but honestly i dont know why but i feel american company cant really make good high tech oils. lol

 

group III is very close to and can match other base oil especially with gas to liquid group III base oil. it have reach a stage where it is hard to tell the differences.

 

limiting the amount of ester is mainly due to technical and cost limitation. also, unless we are flying an aeroplane, having full ester oil simply make no sense when even mineral oil should do fine for us.

[Isopropyl]

double post

[slayer2cool]

yup agreed with the Group III oils. that why im tempted to switch to castrol cos i can get it cheap hahaha but the only wt 50 oil they have is their so called full synthetic line. im still contemplating with switching to full synthetic on my new rotax engine. i suppose I dont really want to stick to mineral cos my day to day commute to and fro work will place my bike in heavy traffic and my radiator fan gets turn on quite frequently and my engine always feel extra hot. of course my bike has an oil cooler but somehow my oil gets destroyed quite well hahaha. maybe just stick to semi will do. at least i can have drain interval similar to a full synthetic.

[Isopropyl]

decent oil should be able to handle up to 150C and most engine is design to run it oil at 100C.

 

of course if in prolong state of high-temperature, there is no doubt that synthetic is the way to go. generally, synthetic does not really lower operation temperature when all else being equal compare to mineral oil. it advantage is it handle high temperature much better. once i read some calculation done by a tribologist on the thermal conductivity of both mineral and synthetic and the different is in the 2nd decimal place which is pretty insignificant. synthetic hold a very slight lower coefficient of friction advantage due to it uniform molecular structure but nothing to shout about.

[slayer2cool]

decent oil should be able to handle up to 150C and most engine is design to run it oil at 100C.

 

of course if in prolong state of high-temperature, there is no doubt that synthetic is the way to go. generally, synthetic does not really lower operation temperature when all else being equal compare to mineral oil. it advantage is it handle high temperature much better. once i read some calculation done by a tribologist on the thermal conductivity of both mineral and synthetic and the different is in the 2nd decimal place which is pretty insignificant. synthetic hold a very slight lower coefficient of friction advantage due to it uniform molecular structure but nothing to shout about.

 

Yeah. Alot of ppl has a misconception that using synthetic literally gives the engine better cooling. But its most likely cos the synthetic lowers the internal friction of the engine better than mineral.

[Motor]

is fully synthetic engine oil definitely better than partially synthetic oil?

[Isopropyl]

is fully synthetic engine oil definitely better than partially synthetic oil?

 

depend on what properties of the oil you are comparing with.

[naim]

is fully synthetic engine oil definitely better than partially synthetic oil?

 

Depends. Base oil us one thing, additives also play a big part in the oil's performance.

[Hydher]

Ok, well, let me share something i found.

 

Contrary to many who believes that rimula is a repackaged rotella, it is NOT.

Im really really new to the subject of engine oil technical data sheets.

 

Basically, i believe rimula is not rated API S because the sulphated ash levels are at 1.44%.

Rotella is max 1%

Most oils that are rated API S is at max 1%.

Unlike diesel oils which is a max of 2%

A high SA oil means a high level of metals aka detergents right?

 

 

Please correct me if i am wrong.

 

Im concerned of running the rimula on bike although i have bought it.

 

+1, Do not use schnell 5w40 sold at giant.

It gave me clutch slips.

[slayer2cool]

Ok, well, let me share something i found.

 

Contrary to many who believes that rimula is a repackaged rotella, it is NOT.

Im really really new to the subject of engine oil technical data sheets.

 

Basically, i believe rimula is not rated API S because the sulphated ash levels are at 1.44%.

Rotella is max 1%

Most oils that are rated API S is at max 1%.

Unlike diesel oils which is a max of 2%

A high SA oil means a high level of metals aka detergents right?

 

 

Please correct me if i am wrong.

 

Im concerned of running the rimula on bike although i have bought it.

 

+1, Do not use schnell 5w40 sold at giant.

It gave me clutch slips.

 

Sulphated ash acts like a detergent if I'm not wrong and higher levels just meant its bad for emission and your cat converter. Not sure if there is any other effect of it on clutch and what not though. However it does goes to show that API S specs is just meant to meet emission standard and thus old oil may not be as lousy as some think. Though it could also mean that the newer oil like API SM or what is just so much better, it doesn't need as much as those sulphur, zinc and phosphorus additives.

[Hydher]

Thank you slayer for your time.

 

 

Best read for motorcycle oils

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

 

I just bought 24 oil filters and

10L of schaeffers 7000k 15w40(lubezone singapore).

Hehehe

[naim]

Thank you slayer for your time.

 

 

Best read for motorcycle oils

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

 

I just bought 24 oil filters and

10L of schaeffers 7000k 15w40(lubezone singapore).

Hehehe

 

Power! Enough OCI to renew COE twice la. haha!

[MERCENARY]

Thank you slayer for your time.

 

 

Best read for motorcycle oils

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

 

I just bought 24 oil filters and

10L of schaeffers 7000k 15w40(lubezone singapore).

Hehehe

 

This is semi synthetic right for 7000k?

[Hydher]

yes correct. Its group 2 oils.

[slayer2cool]

Where do you keep 10 liter worth of oil hahaha

[HimQQ]

Update, previously I asked around about importing of Motor Oils from overseas, as I'm contemplating to buy from Amazon U.S.

I've ordered from Amazon, awaiting delivery, or any news from Singapore Customs.

[naim]

Do update us!

[MH66]

just change eo to elf roadstar 10/40w,bottle indicate made in spore so i assume its meant for our city/urban riding and i gv it a try.after a day bike super smooth n its only 10bucks.give it a try guys n gals.

[superspeed123]

just change eo to elf roadstar 10/40w,bottle indicate made in spore so i assume its meant for our city/urban riding and i gv it a try.after a day bike super smooth n its only 10bucks.give it a try guys n gals.

 

Where u change it ???