Honda NSR150SP Riders

[FireGunz]

Hi firegunz, s u knw, each headlight bulb gt 2 filaments - 1 hi, 1lo. the bulb 1 side on/off (1 eye jack) is due to 2factors:

1. The filament for lo/hi for 1 bulb is spoilt. So when u toggle it, u will get 1 eye jack. (v normal case)

2. The connector (2pin round shaped) behind the bulb, 1 of the pin is not touching the bulb. So u will get tis 1 eye jack symptom even if both filaments (lo/hi) is ok.

 

For 2nd factor, I hav personally encounter it. I chk filaments ok, then when told out the connector, 1 pin is sunken in, so NT touching the bulb.

Hi Sporeknight, thank for the value info.

 

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[sporeknight]

Hi Seniors, how long do you change the clutch cable & how much does it cost also does the clutch cable snap easily less then a year or even less then 3 month? (Depends of the usage. Right?)

 

I had bought the bike less then 2 month. The occur was happen when i were riding on my way home (after work) almost reach at car park entrance. Suddenly the clutch cable got snap when I were changing gear then i pushing bike all the car park.

 

I had just replace it around $30 (normal type clutch cable) last 3 week @ Unique & it seem solve the stall engine problem while waiting at the traffic light. Now feel the clutch cable slightly loosen it again (from the clutch lever) & it seem the same problem (stall engine) come back again and I thinking the cable wouldn't last long again.

 

Any recommendations for the clutch cable or any advise will help too.

 

Thank.

 

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Hi bro Firegunz, the clutch lever adjustment is to adj the free play of yr clutch biting point. I hav adj the "biting point" at 20% "clutch in" long time ago. So when u clutch in, chg gear, let go clutch 20%, can feel the biting point. But there was a time I sent my bike for svc, the mech told me "not good" to hav a "low biting point". So he adj it to 50%. Y "no gd" nt sure. My clutch cable has nt broken for 14yr, mileage abt 105k. Nev grease it b4. So y yr cable keep snapping n loose, I really don understand. When u say loose, did yr biting point go out? Or still the same? I has a spare one which I kp under my left rear fairing. Think I bought it long long time ago at ah boy.

 

Btw, when u chg yr clutch cable, is the cable 100% SP one? Some shops they use other models which may b too long/short or diff design.

[FireGunz]

Hi bro Firegunz, the clutch lever adjustment is to adj the free play of yr clutch biting point. I hav adj the "biting point" at 20% "clutch in" long time ago. So when u clutch in, chg gear, let go clutch 20%, can feel the biting point. But there was a time I sent my bike for svc, the mech told me "not good" to hav a "low biting point". So he adj it to 50%. Y "no gd" nt sure. My clutch cable has nt broken for 14yr, mileage abt 105k. Nev grease it b4. So y yr cable keep snapping n loose, I really don understand. When u say loose, did yr biting point go out? Or still the same? I has a spare one which I kp under my left rear fairing. Think I bought it long long time ago at ah boy.

 

Btw, when u chg yr clutch cable, is the cable 100% SP one? Some shops they use other models which may b too long/short or diff design.

Hi bro Sporeknight, thank for advise.

The clutch cable whether is for SP or not I'm not very sure as I went to "Unique" for replacement. About the clutch lever I think that my lever holder (front brackets where is the adjust biting part connect to cable part which is curve in. Like a yamaha model) is does not belong/suitable for SP in long term usage. So I had got a new original set belong to SP (the holder is cable point is straight not curve) as waiting to replace by mech.

 

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Edited July 25, 2015 by FireGunz

[deespace]

Hi all,

 

I just got myself a Honda nsr150sp. I got some questions.

 

1)What is the gear to speed ratio?

2)While riding at 80-85km/h, my bike suddenly jerk foward. I saw my RPM at almost 7k. What the problem? Is it my gear and speed were inappropriate?

 

Thanks for the expertise.

[Heathx]

Hi all,

 

I just got myself a Honda nsr150sp. I got some questions.

 

1)What is the gear to speed ratio?

2)While riding at 80-85km/h, my bike suddenly jerk foward. I saw my RPM at almost 7k. What the problem? Is it my gear and speed were inappropriate?

 

Thanks for the expertise.

 

Gear to speed ratio is not accurate way to measure. A better way to gauge will be to change gears around 7k rpm. SP power kicks in around 5.5k rpm, although valve opens around 6.8k, and then again at 9k. If you change gears at 7k rpm, when you release clutch, rpm will drop to just above 5.5k usually, so still within the power band. Once in a while though, it'll be good to change gears only after you hit 8k rpm, so your rc valve gets a bit of exercise.

 

As for the jerk forward, not sure if it's an abrupt jerk, or it's the feeling that suddenly your bike is like speeding up more than usual. If it's the second, don't worry, it's natural due to rc valve opening at 6.8k and your engine suddenly more power.

[deespace]

Gear to speed ratio is not accurate way to measure. A better way to gauge will be to change gears around 7k rpm. SP power kicks in around 5.5k rpm, although valve opens around 6.8k, and then again at 9k. If you change gears at 7k rpm, when you release clutch, rpm will drop to just above 5.5k usually, so still within the power band. Once in a while though, it'll be good to change gears only after you hit 8k rpm, so your rc valve gets a bit of exercise.

 

As for the jerk forward, not sure if it's an abrupt jerk, or it's the feeling that suddenly your bike is like speeding up more than usual. If it's the second, don't worry, it's natural due to rc valve opening at 6.8k and your engine suddenly more power.

 

Hi, so your saying I should change gear at 5.5 to 7k rpm?

 

Also is 4-5k rpm at 75-85km/hr at gear 4 fine?

 

My apology, this rpm thing is new to me as I just got my license and during learning, i only look at gear and speed not rpm.

Edited July 26, 2015 by deespace

[sporeknight]

Hi, so your saying I should change gear at 5.5 to 7k rpm?

 

Also is 4-5k rpm at 75-85km/hr at gear 4 fine?

 

My apology, this rpm thing is new to me as I just got my license and during learning, i only look at gear and speed not rpm.

I too chg gear arnd 5-6.5k rpm. But I chg gear when I hear engine sound "get louder" which is silmilar to rpm. S long s u don throw clutch u shld NT feel "jerk forward" feeling. Mayb u still nt use to new bike la, I guess. Drive few wks more c HW. If NT can ask yr fren test yr bike.

[Heathx]

Hi, so your saying I should change gear at 5.5 to 7k rpm?

 

Also is 4-5k rpm at 75-85km/hr at gear 4 fine?

 

My apology, this rpm thing is new to me as I just got my license and during learning, i only look at gear and speed not rpm.

 

No need for apologies, we're all here to learn. =)

 

5.5k rpm is where your bike's power will start to come in. Thus, you should ride above 5.5k as much as possible.

 

Your rc valves will open at around 7k rpm, and open further at 9k rpm. So at these 2 points, you will feel a surge of power.

 

Generally, you should change gears around 6.5-8k rpm range. Usually i will change at 7.5k rpm.

 

For normal riding, just maintain at around 6.4k rpm. Usually 80-90kph is gear 5, 6.4k rpm. 60kmph is maybe gear 4, 6k rpm. So you match your gear to your speed and rpm.

[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, just wonder how to you do that until 9k rpm in which gear position? I did try before in gear 4 revs until 8k rpm will be around 120km/hr & feeling like going to tear down the engine (hear engine screaming). Does that normal? Also why I haven't go until 9k rpm so far.

 

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Edited July 26, 2015 by FireGunz

[Heathx]

Hi Seniors, just wonder how to you do that until 9k rpm in which gear position? I did try before in gear 4 revs until 8k rpm will be around 120km/hr & feeling like going to tear down the engine (hear engine screaming). Does that normal? Also why I haven't go until 9k rpm so far.

 

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You can go 9k rpm in any gear, gears 1-3 is easy. The question is, you dare go 9k rpm in gear 4-6 on Singapore roads or not? =D

 

If you want to go to 9k rpm, you have to consider 2 things. 1) your engine condition, 2) your comfort level. If your engine has not been well-maintained and you don't know it well, don't do it. 7k rpm is enough to exercise the rc valve and also to 'blow' out the 2T. Everyone also has a psychological barrier when it comes to pushing the bike limits. If you have been riding at 6k rpm normally, you will naturally fear for going up to 9k rpm even for a short while because it's an unknown area.

 

Your engine screaming and my engine screaming definition and sound may be different, so i can't tell if it's ok or not. My previous SP go 9k rpm also screaming, but it's screaming in glee... Some other people's bikes 7k rpm screaming in pain. So really very hard to say unless i'm there to see and hear for myself. hahaha...

 

Btw, nobody rides at 9k rpm for extended periods unless at the track. The wear and tear is too much for the engine to take if extended period. Usually i go up to 7.5k or 8k rpm before changing gears for gears 1-4, then from 4-5 and 5-6 i'll change at 7.2k rpm. Normal riding i'll maintain between 6.3k - 7k rpm. This range is generally most petrol-saving. Once rc valve open at 7k rpm, your petrol consumption will increase. Only once in a blue moon will i open up to 9k rpm and beyond (highway in bolehland). I dare to push the bike because i take very good care of it and i know the engine condition well, i use top-end 2T, and i have confidence there will be no problem even if i push.

[FireGunz]

You can go 9k rpm in any gear, gears 1-3 is easy. The question is, you dare go 9k rpm in gear 4-6 on Singapore roads or not? =D

 

If you want to go to 9k rpm, you have to consider 2 things. 1) your engine condition, 2) your comfort level. If your engine has not been well-maintained and you don't know it well, don't do it. 7k rpm is enough to exercise the rc valve and also to 'blow' out the 2T. Everyone also has a psychological barrier when it comes to pushing the bike limits. If you have been riding at 6k rpm normally, you will naturally fear for going up to 9k rpm even for a short while because it's an unknown area.

 

Your engine screaming and my engine screaming definition and sound may be different, so i can't tell if it's ok or not. My previous SP go 9k rpm also screaming, but it's screaming in glee... Some other people's bikes 7k rpm screaming in pain. So really very hard to say unless i'm there to see and hear for myself. hahaha...

 

Btw, nobody rides at 9k rpm for extended periods unless at the track. The wear and tear is too much for the engine to take if extended period. Usually i go up to 7.5k or 8k rpm before changing gears for gears 1-4, then from 4-5 and 5-6 i'll change at 7.2k rpm. Normal riding i'll maintain between 6.3k - 7k rpm. This range is generally most petrol-saving. Once rc valve open at 7k rpm, your petrol consumption will increase. Only once in a blue moon will i open up to 9k rpm and beyond (highway in bolehland). I dare to push the bike because i take very good care of it and i know the engine condition well, i use top-end 2T, and i have confidence there will be no problem even if i push.

Hmmm... agree.

Thank Heathx, will take your advice & the guide about shifting gear & the RPM.

 

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[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, I'm just curious about does those modified the headlight into angel eyes, can it pass the inspection?

 

Also does it possible using the LED (white colour) as replace the normal blubs for the headlight & will it able to pass the inspection too?

 

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[Heathx]

Hi Seniors, I'm just curious about does those modified the headlight into angel eyes, can it pass the inspection?

 

Also does it possible using the LED (white colour) as replace the normal blubs for the headlight & will it able to pass the inspection too?

 

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Angel eyes no pass. LED white light i don't know, but i don't think it pass either...

[wait4me]

Hi Seniors, I'm just curious about does those modified the headlight into angel eyes, can it pass the inspection?

 

Also does it possible using the LED (white colour) as replace the normal blubs for the headlight & will it able to pass the inspection too?

 

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comfirm no pass, dun waste time doing it or changing it.

[FireGunz]

Ok. Seem the "Angel Eyed" is unable to pass then what about the normal headlight bulbs change to "LED" white colour & will the inspection pass too?

 

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[Heathx]

Ok. Seem the "Angel Eyed" is unable to pass then what about the normal headlight bulbs change to "LED" white colour & will the inspection pass too?

 

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Think Wait4me just confirmed both also no pass. I thought angel eyes was nice also, but decided not to do anything to my stock lights. Rather not be bothered by LTA...

[wait4me]

Think Wait4me just confirmed both also no pass. I thought angel eyes was nice also, but decided not to do anything to my stock lights. Rather not be bothered by LTA...

 

actually more like 50 - 50 ,

but hor we are not bmw 5 series , which LTA approve angel eyes.

 

think of the hassle u need to go through if fail ?

go back work shop

put the lamp , put the faring , ride back to inspection , inspect already

go back to bike shop , take out everything again , put back

 

then 11 months later rinse and repeat

[sporeknight]

actually more like 50 - 50 ,

but hor we are not bmw 5 series , which LTA approve angel eyes.

 

think of the hassle u need to go through if fail ?

go back work shop

put the lamp , put the faring , ride back to inspection , inspect already

go back to bike shop , take out everything again , put back

 

then 11 months later rinse and repeat

 

I think LED white light shld b able to pass. But mus get the LTA approved type la. Meaning cannot get those "too glaring types" ones la. Gt certain specs. On the road alot of LED white lights even bikes. At most worse cm worst jus take out bulb n chg bk the orig yellow lights lor. NT much hassle wat. If u really lik the white LED lights, jus put in, but kp yr orig yellow bulbs arnd. Tis kind of small thing don think TP will catch on the road. More for inspectn. If wori, inspectn standby yr orig. B4 start of inspectn, jus ask the mech. If say cannot, jus put bk orig lor. Simple s tat. Or jus go thru the inspectn wif yr LED, c if can pass. Those mech also bikers la. They wont b so unreasonable until ask u pay 2nd inspectn. LED lights brighter so more safer on the road. My fren car gt put those "eye lids". The mech told him to take out n cm bk later show him. No 2nd inspectn charge.

 

But 1 thing take note. I hav tried tis white LED light long time ago. It was so hot until my front lights sockets melt n fuse wif the bulb. Abt 2-3mths later. LL hav to chg whole front unit. The mech told me tis LED v hot. Abt 45$ tat time. Of course chiong one la.

[wait4me]

I think LED white light shld b able to pass. But mus get the LTA approved type la. Meaning cannot get those "too glaring types" ones la. Gt certain specs. On the road alot of LED white lights even bikes. At most worse cm worst jus take out bulb n chg bk the orig yellow lights lor. NT much hassle wat. If u really lik the white LED lights, jus put in, but kp yr orig yellow bulbs arnd. Tis kind of small thing don think TP will catch on the road. More for inspectn. If wori, inspectn standby yr orig. B4 start of inspectn, jus ask the mech. If say cannot, jus put bk orig lor. Simple s tat. Or jus go thru the inspectn wif yr LED, c if can pass. Those mech also bikers la. They wont b so unreasonable until ask u pay 2nd inspectn. LED lights brighter so more safer on the road. My fren car gt put those "eye lids". The mech told him to take out n cm bk later show him. No 2nd inspectn charge.

 

But 1 thing take note. I hav tried tis white LED light long time ago. It was so hot until my front lights sockets melt n fuse wif the bulb. Abt 2-3mths later. LL hav to chg whole front unit. The mech told me tis LED v hot. Abt 45$ tat time. Of course chiong one la.

 

bikes that not original LED wil not pass but still depend on luck . if lucky pass and go home ,

[vtec88]

Hi Guys,

 

i selling used SP parts / BROQUET Fuel Charger if u need any.

 

My sales thread

 

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vtec88-Used-Bike-Parts-Broquet-Fuel-Charger/415899711838681

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/235030-lt-CMO-gt-BROQUET-Fuel-Charger-(UK)-gt-Save-Fuel-Increase-Power!-Different-Preown-Parts?highlight

 

 

whatapps 82007665 Derek the SP parts that u need . Thanks!

[FireGunz]

Think Wait4me just confirmed both also no pass. I thought angel eyes was nice also, but decided not to do anything to my stock lights. Rather not be bothered by LTA...

 

I think LED white light shld b able to pass. But mus get the LTA approved type la. Meaning cannot get those "too glaring types" ones la. Gt certain specs. On the road alot of LED white lights even bikes. At most worse cm worst jus take out bulb n chg bk the orig yellow lights lor. NT much hassle wat. If u really lik the white LED lights, jus put in, but kp yr orig yellow bulbs arnd. Tis kind of small thing don think TP will catch on the road. More for inspectn. If wori, inspectn standby yr orig. B4 start of inspectn, jus ask the mech. If say cannot, jus put bk orig lor. Simple s tat. Or jus go thru the inspectn wif yr LED, c if can pass. Those mech also bikers la. They wont b so unreasonable until ask u pay 2nd inspectn. LED lights brighter so more safer on the road. My fren car gt put those "eye lids". The mech told him to take out n cm bk later show him. No 2nd inspectn charge.

 

But 1 thing take note. I hav tried tis white LED light long time ago. It was so hot until my front lights sockets melt n fuse wif the bulb. Abt 2-3mths later. LL hav to chg whole front unit. The mech told me tis LED v hot. Abt 45$ tat time. Of course chiong one la.

 

 

bikes that not original LED wil not pass but still depend on luck . if lucky pass and go home ,

Wah...

Then better stick to original.

To prevent those unnecessary troubles (time & money)...

Thank to all senior that sharing those experience & info.

 

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Edited July 30, 2015 by FireGunz

[Heathx]

My SP i kept to stock as much as possible. Only things i did that is visible is the brake pump, steel-braided brake hose, and the racing footrest. Lights all these i kept to stock. You could use a bulb with higher wattage, but it may melt your connectors. Singapore road bright enough actually, don't really matter you use LED, HID or stock lights.

[sporeknight]

.....But 1 thing take note. I hav tried tis white LED light long time ago. It was so hot until my front lights sockets melt n fuse wif the bulb. Abt 2-3mths later. LL hav to chg whole front unit. The mech told me tis LED v hot. Abt 45$ tat time. Of course chiong one la.

$45 I refer to the whole front lighting sockets unit. Nt LED bulb. Bulb shld b quite cheap la.

[sporeknight]

Hi Guys,

 

i selling used SP parts / BROQUET Fuel Charger if u need any.

 

My sales thread

 

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vtec88-Used-Bike-Parts-Broquet-Fuel-Charger/415899711838681

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/235030-lt-CMO-gt-BROQUET-Fuel-Charger-(UK)-gt-Save-Fuel-Increase-Power!-Different-Preown-Parts?highlight

 

 

whatapps 82007665 Derek the SP parts that u need . Thanks!

Bro, yr SP parts all old? No new ones? So if sell old, does it mean it will v cheap? U deliver or we colec? Do u fix for us?

[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, what is the size of the bulbs?

1. Headlight is "H6" 12v - 30/30w

 

2. Brake/Taillight is "??" 12v - 5/18w

 

3. Signal light for front / rear is "??" 12v - 10/10w

 

Also where do I get this bulbs for stock? Same usual place/shop that selling the original part & what is the price for each bulbs cost?

 

By the way, does any of you change the Engine Oil (Transmission oil) done by yourself alone before?

 

If yes, what is the tools you need & how do you disposal the "Old" Engine Oil after drain out from the bike.

 

Thank

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Edited July 30, 2015 by FireGunz