Honda NSR150SP Riders

[sporeknight]

Hi Bro or Senior, about "Fuel Tap" again. does any of you counter this occur before as I did notice that, if I didn't turn off the "Fuel Tap" for over night (around 6 hour or more). It feel like the fuel will be leaking abit by abit from the bike stand underneath (base on the floor under bike stand got a very small oil patch) & slowly days by days go by it seem the bike stand will be oily too.

 

Does this normal? As I'm turn off the "Fuel Tap" again for around 8 hour to see does this occur will happen it again. Due to worry about the "Fuel Tap" if keep on turn on & off will make it loose the tap. (worry that will cause the tap in off position when it is loose).

 

Which I leave it at the "ON" position at all the way even parking at overnight (more the 6 hour).

 

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Hi bro, sori to hear tat. But my bike for 14years(Fuel tap alwys ON), only had 1 time tis issue. Susp someone steal my petrol cos there is some petrol stain on the floor. Aft I take out my tank inspect wher the leak(I can't find), I assemble bk, no such prob ever happen again.

For yr case I sugg u inspect wher the leak. Take out yr tank n clean yr tank exterior so nxt time leak u knw where it is. Yes there is a overflow tubing. But tat one is from fuel tank ( link from the top of yr fuel tank - petrol overflow, top up too much). For yr case, I think most likely from the fuel tap (inlet or outlet side). Outlet side: There shld b a c-clip to tighten the tubing(outlet side) else too loose yr petrol may leak Fr there. Inlet side u hav to trace the leak.

 

Nev ever turn the fuel tap ON, OFF, RES too freq though there r some bros advising doin tis. I always put ON, no prob kick start the bike. Cold start (3-5days) : 10-15kicks whch I feel is normal. By alwys turning the fuel tap, it may bcom loose n cause fuel "passing" or leaks into yr carb. Then u will hav a prob.

 

Yr side stand hav petrol leaks is v dangerous. May catch fire. Above is mu own opinions. Pls update us if u hav found the source.

[sporeknight]

Does anyone know anything abt sprockets & its effects? What is the stock teeth number of the front & rear sprocket?

 

I noticed my rear sprocket quite big. Ive seen someone's sp is much smaller. The KRR150 parked in my mscp level also small. Not sure if big sprocket is stock or the smaller one is stock.

 

Thinking of increasing my front sprocket 1-2 teeth & rear sprocket reduce 2 teeth. Is it good idea? Any effects?

Hi bro. There is a time I went svc I met a bro whose rear sprocket is v small. The chain Almost touching the "silver block" due to small sprocket. I ask him n he say: Top speed higher than big sprocket, but fuel consumpt also higher la. It is better for long or short dist traveling, I forgot which. The torque is also related.

 

For me regarding machinery parts i jus preferred use stock stuffs beside those decorative stuffs lik stickers, screws etc. By chging the sprockets sizes or other mechanical movable parts, will it affect the lifespan or perfm of the bike in long term? Think abt it. Engineers n designers hav numerous times test the specs of SP b4 they cfm wat specs is best for tis model n send for production.

[sporeknight]

Hi bro, sori to hear tat. But my bike for 14years(Fuel tap alwys ON), only had 1 time tis issue. Susp someone steal my petrol cos there is some petrol stain on the floor. Aft I take out my tank inspect wher the leak(I can't find), I assemble bk, no such prob ever happen again.

For yr case I sugg u inspect wher the leak. Take out yr tank n clean yr tank exterior so nxt time leak u knw where it is. Yes there is a overflow tubing. But tat one is from fuel tank ( link from the top of yr fuel tank - petrol overflow, top up too much). For yr case, I think most likely from the fuel tap (inlet or outlet side). Outlet side: There shld b a c-clip to tighten the tubing(outlet side) else too loose yr petrol may leak Fr there. Inlet side u hav to trace the leak.

 

Nev ever turn the fuel tap ON, OFF, RES too freq though there r some bros advising doin tis. I always put ON, no prob kick start the bike. Cold start (3-5days) : 10-15kicks whch I feel is normal. By alwys turning the fuel tap, it may bcom loose n cause fuel "passing" or leaks into yr carb. Then u will hav a prob.

 

Yr side stand hav petrol leaks is v dangerous. May catch fire. Above is mu own opinions. Pls update us if u hav found the source.

Sori fellow bros. Since I rarely seldom adjust the fuel tap, it is always at "RES". I wrote wrongly. I always use until near empty for max mileage. Think abt it: If near "reserve" tank, It is troublesome to adjust the tap n risky of stall bike when put to "ON".

[FireGunz]

Hi Bro or Senior, about "Fuel Tap" again. does any of you counter this occur before as I did notice that, if I didn't turn off the "Fuel Tap" for over night (around 6 hour or more). It feel like the fuel will be leaking abit by abit from the bike stand underneath (base on the floor under bike stand got a very small oil patch) & slowly days by days go by it seem the bike stand will be oily too.

 

Does this normal? As I'm turn off the "Fuel Tap" again for around 8 hour to see does this occur will happen it again. Due to worry about the "Fuel Tap" if keep on turn on & off will make it loose the tap. (worry that will cause the tap in off position when it is loose).

 

Which I leave it at the "ON" position at all the way even parking at overnight (more the 6 hour).

 

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Hi Seniors, as above that topic. I think that is not the leaking from the Fuel Tank / Tube. The reason is when I touch the very small "Black" oil patch on the floor (where is near around the bike stand) & it feel like a oil base which doesn't had the fuel / petrol smell as I suspect it should be the 2T oil & I think not from the 2T pump container.

 

So do you think that possible?

 

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Edited September 12, 2015 by FireGunz

[jbdoggy]

Hi Seniors, as above that topic. I think that is not the leaking from the Fuel Tank / Tube. The reason is when I touch the very small "Black" oil patch on the floor (where is near around the bike stand) & it feel like a oil base which doesn't had the fuel / petrol smell as I suspect it should be the 2T oil & I think not from the 2T pump container.

 

So do you think that possible?

 

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black oil patch - take a peep at your engine from the fairing openings. Does the engine & chassis have black stains here & there? Either runny stains or spray stains? If so, then it could be your exhaust manifold leaking. Need to change the gasket. Thats how i discovered i had that problem.

 

If dont hv, take a peep at the bottom of your fairings if there are any oil stains there. If have, maybe leak from the gear box oil disposal port. Either the lining there need to change or the nut need to tighten.

[sporeknight]

Hi Seniors, as above that topic. I think that is not the leaking from the Fuel Tank / Tube. The reason is when I touch the very small "Black" oil patch on the floor (where is near around the bike stand) & it feel like a oil base which doesn't had the fuel / petrol smell as I suspect it should be the 2T oil & I think not from the 2T pump container.

 

So do you think that possible?

 

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Wa Lao. Bro. All the while u mention "fuel leaks bit by bit" n fuel tap in yr prev post. Ok, nvm. NW u hav clarify n verify wat oil stain is it. Fuel, EO, 2T, brake oil? Since u mention black color oil stain, v likely is EO. EO initially is light gold but aft bike run for some time,it bcom dark color. 2T is green color for me, brake oil is light red wif a abrasive feeling, fuel is v ez to detect (smell).

Folo wat Bro jbdoggy mention. Hope u can detect the leak. Quite risky if EO leaks s NT enught yr bike engine bcom v hot.1 question did yr bike come out smoke from the centre when bike running? If no, most likely cm from yr engine bottom side. Ever encounter a bro whose engine block (on top of engine) gt pin hole puncture. So when running the EO leaks n due to high temp it bcom white smoke. V v funny s I saw it personally. Whole bike smoke out!

 

Pls find the source n update us accordingly. Try to tighten the bolt screw for the engine oil drain point (near yr side stand area, left side of bike). C if it still happen. Try to take out the bolt screw n make sure surface of screw n contact part of the hole of the screw(engine side) is smooth n free of sand. Could b when chg EO, mech did NT tighten enugh or surfaces gt debrises. Try to rectify ez ones 1st. Let us knw.

[FireGunz]

Wa Lao. Bro. All the while u mention "fuel leaks bit by bit" n fuel tap in yr prev post. Ok, nvm. NW u hav clarify n verify wat oil stain is it. Fuel, EO, 2T, brake oil? Since u mention black color oil stain, v likely is EO. EO initially is light gold but aft bike run for some time,it bcom dark color. 2T is green color for me, brake oil is light red wif a abrasive feeling, fuel is v ez to detect (smell).

Folo wat Bro jbdoggy mention. Hope u can detect the leak. Quite risky if EO leaks s NT enught yr bike engine bcom v hot.1 question did yr bike come out smoke from the centre when bike running? If no, most likely cm from yr engine bottom side. Ever encounter a bro whose engine block (on top of engine) gt pin hole puncture. So when running the EO leaks n due to high temp it bcom white smoke. V v funny s I saw it personally. Whole bike smoke out!

 

Pls find the source n update us accordingly. Try to tighten the bolt screw for the engine oil drain point (near yr side stand area, left side of bike). C if it still happen. Try to take out the bolt screw n make sure surface of screw n contact part of the hole of the screw(engine side) is smooth n free of sand. Could b when chg EO, mech did NT tighten enugh or surfaces gt debrises. Try to rectify ez ones 1st. Let us knw.

 

Paiseh... given a wrong info about the previous post. It dark oil under the bike it could be the "E.O" as what I suspect but think will send it to the shop to check again in few day.

 

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[jbdoggy]

Hi bro. There is a time I went svc I met a bro whose rear sprocket is v small. The chain Almost touching the "silver block" due to small sprocket. I ask him n he say: Top speed higher than big sprocket, but fuel consumpt also higher la. It is better for long or short dist traveling, I forgot which. The torque is also related.

 

For me regarding machinery parts i jus preferred use stock stuffs beside those decorative stuffs lik stickers, screws etc. By chging the sprockets sizes or other mechanical movable parts, will it affect the lifespan or perfm of the bike in long term? Think abt it. Engineers n designers hav numerous times test the specs of SP b4 they cfm wat specs is best for tis model n send for production.

 

thks bro.

 

I also did some research on such things. V v cheem for me. But basically all tis is abt changing the overall bike gearings. Increase front sprocket 1-2 teeth and/or reduce rear sprocket 1-2 teeth you get more topspeed but at the expense of torque (acceleration decrease), do it the other way round you get more acceleration but less top speed.

 

The cheem part is the thing abt certain combinations being too short or too tall gearing. Whatever that means.....eg my plan of increase front by 2 & reduce rear by 2 results in too tall gearing & our stock 1st gear is known to be short. dunno lah....my brain too small too understand these terms.

[Heathx]

Sprocket general rule

big front small rear = high topspeed low acceleration low fuel consumption at cruising

small front big rear = high acceleration low topspeed high fuel consumption at cruising

Some people also play 520 or 428 hub also. 520 is stock SP, heavier chain, heavier hub, better for acceleration. 428 is lighter chain, lighter hub, good for top speed.

 

As for the fuel tap, to me, if the tap is meant to be opened and closed, then it will be made to take that kind of abuse. If it's not meant to be opened and closed, then why put tap there? just my 2 cents lah. lol...

 

If fuel leak, check the stain on the ground. If under engine, and light colour, then it's petrol. Dark means EO. If black behind exhaust means your spent 2T drip from your endcan, nothing to worry.

[FireGunz]

As for the fuel tap, to me, if the tap is meant to be opened and closed, then it will be made to take that kind of abuse. If it's not meant to be opened and closed, then why put tap there? just my 2 cents lah. lol...

 

If fuel leak, check the stain on the ground. If under engine, and light colour, then it's petrol. Dark means EO. If black behind exhaust means your spent 2T drip from your endcan, nothing to worry.

Noted. Thank Bro Heathx, that will make much easier for me to identify base on the oil dripping on the floor position & colour.

 

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Edited September 13, 2015 by FireGunz

[FireGunz]

Sprocket general rule

big front small rear = high topspeed low acceleration low fuel consumption at cruising

small front big rear = high acceleration low topspeed high fuel consumption at cruising

Some people also play 520 or 428 hub also. 520 is stock SP, heavier chain, heavier hub, better for acceleration. 428 is lighter chain, lighter hub, good for top speed.

 

Hi bro, how to know (identify) that the current bike using the sprocket is which type "520" or "480".

 

 

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[jbdoggy]

Sprocket general rule

big front small rear = high topspeed low acceleration low fuel consumption at cruising

small front big rear = high acceleration low topspeed high fuel consumption at cruising

Some people also play 520 or 428 hub also. 520 is stock SP, heavier chain, heavier hub, better for acceleration. 428 is lighter chain, lighter hub, good for top speed.

 

Thks Bro

 

But what does 520 actually mean? Been googling round & seems to be talking more abt the chain design & weight?? Do they also refer to the front & rear sprocket teeth number??

 

I think stock sp sprockets is 14 teeth front & 40 rear?? Maybe if i just change front to 15 teeth, wont lose so much acceleration, in gaining a bit more high end speed??

 

No wonder 1 sp bro here whom i went riding with 1 day, commented my 1st gear acceleration v powerful. His rear sprocket much smaller then mine. On msia highway he probly will leave me far behind!! lol.

[Heathx]

This is the original 520 hub.

 

 

This is the 428 hub that does not originally come with SP.

 

 

"lighter chain = less rotating mass = better power delivery due to less hp lost to wheel"

 

But it's not say jin big difference. The bigger difference is your sprocket sizes. I can't remember what i used for front, but my rear was 42.

[FireGunz]

This is the original 520 hub.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]327891[/ATTACH]

 

This is the 428 hub that does not originally come with SP.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]327892[/ATTACH]

 

"lighter chain = less rotating mass = better power delivery due to less hp lost to wheel"

 

But it's not say jin big difference. The bigger difference is your sprocket sizes. I can't remember what i used for front, but my rear was 42.

Wa... awesome...

Now at least I know how it look like also picture will tell thousand words.

Thank bro for the value info,

 

By the way, does the inspection will pass if change sprocket sizes for front & rear to 428 hub?

 

 

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Edited September 14, 2015 by FireGunz

[jbdoggy]

This is the original 520 hub.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]327891[/ATTACH]

 

This is the 428 hub that does not originally come with SP.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]327892[/ATTACH]

 

"lighter chain = less rotating mass = better power delivery due to less hp lost to wheel"

 

But it's not say jin big difference. The bigger difference is your sprocket sizes. I can't remember what i used for front, but my rear was 42.

 

Thnks bro

 

 

By the way, does the inspection will pass if change sprocket sizes for front & rear to 428 hub?

 

On the externals, they seem more more anal on smoke & racing footpegs. That is if you did not do mods to your lightings as well.

[Heathx]

By the way, does the inspection will pass if change sprocket sizes for front & rear to 428 hub?

 

So far my inspection all pass. But if really die die go by book, anything that is not original fail. Even paintwork. Stupiak, but true.

[sky 1605199488]

after so many years, the topic on 520 428 still around ah? lol

[jbdoggy]

Sorry if this is a stupid question.

 

I just discovered at lo beam, bike is 2 eyed. But at Hi beam it is 1 eyed. Is it like that or also supposed to be 2 eyed?

 

I suspect my left bulb may need to change liao! Please confirm...

[FireGunz]

Sorry if this is a stupid question.

 

I just discovered at lo beam, bike is 2 eyed. But at Hi beam it is 1 eyed. Is it like that or also supposed to be 2 eyed?

 

I suspect my left bulb may need to change liao! Please confirm...

Hi bro jbdoggy, about the headlights as I think it should be the both eyed even for Hi beam as our is a old bike just like bro Heathx mentioned it before.

 

 

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Edited September 20, 2015 by FireGunz

[wait4me]

Sorry if this is a stupid question.

 

I just discovered at lo beam, bike is 2 eyed. But at Hi beam it is 1 eyed. Is it like that or also supposed to be 2 eyed?

 

I suspect my left bulb may need to change liao! Please confirm...

 

low 1 eye

high 2 eye

 

but u can twit wht ever u need eg. low for 2 eye

[sporeknight]

Sorry if this is a stupid question.

 

I just discovered at lo beam, bike is 2 eyed. But at Hi beam it is 1 eyed. Is it like that or also supposed to be 2 eyed?

 

I suspect my left bulb may need to change liao! Please confirm...

 

Bro, low hi beam both is 2 eyes. To verify, v simple. For the 1 eye, swapped wif the other side c if it is 1 or 2 eyes. If still 1 eye, most likely yr filament blow. If tat 2 eye swap to the other side bcom 1 eye, the 1 eye side connector faulty.

[jbdoggy]

Thks bros firegunz & sporeknight.

 

This weekend i go & chk it out. Most likely i think its the bulb. I'll also get my passing button fixed. Doesnt work.

[HOLYCRAP]

how does the kick start helps to start the bike! i have to turn the ignition off and kick for at least 5 times before switching it on and spam kicking the bike.

sometimes i need to have luck to kick start the bike

[sporeknight]

how does the kick start helps to start the bike! i have to turn the ignition off and kick for at least 5 times before switching it on and spam kicking the bike.

sometimes i need to have luck to kick start the bike

 

For my bike: For everyday travel, kick abt 5-8x. For 3-5days, kick abt 10-15x in order to manage to kick start it. But whatever it is, u ND to pull up the choke. When u pull manage to start it wif choke pulled up, u will c rpm abt 3-4. When press down, it will b abt 1-2rpm. Make sure u c the diff to chk if yr choke works. 2nd, off yr lightings so its ezier. 3rd chk yr Batt is working fine.

 

The above 3pts make sure u chk properly. Let us knw the findings.

[jbdoggy]

For my bike: For everyday travel, kick abt 5-8x. For 3-5days, kick abt 10-15x in order to manage to kick start it. But whatever it is, u ND to pull up the choke. When u pull manage to start it wif choke pulled up, u will c rpm abt 3-4. When press down, it will b abt 1-2rpm. Make sure u c the diff to chk if yr choke works. 2nd, off yr lightings so its ezier. 3rd chk yr Batt is working fine.

 

The above 3pts make sure u chk properly. Let us knw the findings.

 

wow...5-8x??? What was actually the problem causing this? Mine usually fires up 1-2x only, w/o choke & everything swee. But funny thing is last 2 weeks I can still start in 1-2x but need tam pok choke a bit later for few secs, otherwise engine idling too low & eventually die. Dunno if haze has dirtied the carb or not? Or some vacuum leak somewhere, cos i will once in a while hv this problem if try to blip throttle while warming up, the engine will make croaking sound & if persist with that throttle level, engine will die. Sign of too much air. choke seems to cure this problem also tho. But this croaking problem improved a bit after i gv carb air screw quarter turn in.

 

But dont understand why from no need choke last time to need choke now.