[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[stsoh]

SS= Stainless Steel.

header = pipe connecting from engine to muffler.

 

normal header is made of mild steel n chromed external to look nice n shinning.

the inner sleeve will crack also due to heat expansion faster than the outer chromed layer.

nowadays u notice almost all superbikes r equiped with SS headers.

 

i use ring spanner as extension with quality alloy allen key to loosen those allen bolts.

avoid using cheap mild steel type allen key, it can be twisted when exceed it's tensile strenght.

 

avoid welding muffler to header, unless u had some better exhaust system.

Edited May 23, 2009 by stsoh

[stsoh]

hey, what's that digital thing on ur bike's handlebar?

it's IU unit.

it's for electronic toll gate ERP n will automatically deduct electronically from $$cash$$ card.

all sillypore vehicles must install this unit.

Edited May 23, 2009 by stsoh

[stsoh]

Yeah Stsoh, after warmin up of the bike (3-5 mins n trottlin 2-2.5 rpm of idlin speed for abt 2 mins or so) it really helps. But every start of the bike must do this or in the mornin when u ride?

 

yes, 4-strokers is unlike 2-strokers.

it's good to warm up engine if not u tends to wear your engine faster.

most wearing r at first crank in the cold morning.

[stsoh]

yes, if your idle speed too low, it will die off.

let your bike warm up takes about 5 min at idle speed 1.5k rpm.

throttle up a bit to 2~2.2k rpm for about 2~3 mins b4 moving off.

 

u just need to tune carb a bit richer by adjusting pilot-screw or jet-needle's eclip position.

if u r not sure how to do it, u can always ask cka mech to help u do it.

 

here my recommendation for stock carb, balance with power n economical FC:

pilot-screw set at 2.5 turns n jet-needle's eclip at 3rd slot.

 

if u want better power, just set jet-needle's eclip at 4th slot.

 

remember this, setting too rich fuel is just a waste of fuel.

it's not necessary give good power performance.

 

Thanks, but I'm not sure how to do the setting....think will have to get cka mech to do it for me altough I really wan to do it myself...

 

after your carb setup is done n still find some lacking in power.

another suggestion is to change rear sprocket from stock 42t to 44t.

cka don't have 44t rear sprocket but u can find it at any other bike shops.

it will improve pickup speed (acceleration) but will reduce top cruising speed

from 110 kph to 105 kph @ 10,000 rpm.

[Suppose]

after your carb setup is done n still find some lacking in power.

another suggestion is to change rear sprocket from stock 42t to 44t.

cka don't have 44t rear sprocket but u can find it at any other bike shops.

it will improve pickup speed (acceleration) but will reduce top cruising speed

from 110 kph to 105 kph @ 10,000 rpm.

 

possible to cruise at 10,000 rpm? my bike can barely hit 10,000 rpm without shaking. kinda scared to pull that much...whats the highest speed u guys usually cruise at with this bike?i usually go around 80km at 6,000 rpm

[lazykatak]

hey, thinking of changing to 38 teeth rear sprokets....

u guys think its worth it?

[tmcrider]

SS= Stainless Steel.

header = pipe connecting from engine to muffler.

 

normal header is made of mild steel n chromed external to look nice n shinning.

the inner sleeve will crack also due to heat expansion faster than the outer chromed layer.

nowadays u notice almost all superbikes r equiped with SS headers.

 

i use ring spanner as extension with quality alloy allen key to loosen those allen bolts.

avoid using cheap mild steel type allen key, it can be twisted when exceed it's tensile strenght.

 

avoid welding muffler to header, unless u had some better exhaust system.

ok. Understood.

Thanks for tips.

[phantomintheair]

Just now around 12am was along Bedok reservoir rd n deres a bunch of bikers(total of 8 bikes wif a few of em wif their gf behind) with diff bikes, from rxz to super4, wif cls2a sprts bike as well came to a halt at the traffic light dat I'm in. In fact most of em stop at my side n some in front but all starin at my bike.. (felt so great). When the light turns green, I can say dat my acceleration is faster. They might not be in their 100% but I'm juz wonderin wad cka did to this bike? Went to refill my petrol n found out my bike is runnin at around 25.6km/l which is very fuel economically unfrenly compare to most of the guys here. Any way to help me?

[stsoh]

help in which way????

if u want power, it will burnt more fuel.

if u want economical, it will be less power.

set carb lean to stock setting.

don't ride above 70kph.

don't rush from point to point, u can save fuel too.

 

my fc is avg 26km/l, it's norm if your carb r tuned rich.

 

if u r thinking of ways to save fuel, u can try convert to small size tires.

change your tire rims to smaller size if it can fix on.

then u can use smaller tires like front 80 width n rear 100 width.

as u can see most other class 2b bikes r using.

big tires use a lot of power to drive, thus high fc.

u will be the first converting to smaller tires.

Edited May 24, 2009 by stsoh

[stsoh]

hey, thinking of changing to 38 teeth rear sprokets....

u guys think its worth it?

 

not if your rw is 200cc n u don't weight more than 50 kgs.

 

my weight is 75 kgs n my current bike config is

130/70 with 15t/43t can bearly rev up to 9.6k rpm.

 

i've tried other config like

130/70 with 14t/42t can bearly rev up to 9.8k rpm.

130/70 with 15t/42t can bearly rev up to 9.5k rpm.

140/70 with 15t/42t can bearly rev up to 9.2k rpm.

140/70 with 15t/40t can bearly rev up to 8.5k rpm.

 

speed-wise all tops at 110+ kph.

vib-wise reduce coz of lower rpm.

acceleration-wise (pickup), lesser rpm = lesser torque,

lesser power = lesser drive = lower acceleration (pickup).

 

if u got a 10 speed bicycle, try to understand by switch thru all it's gears.

 

one tooth up in front sprocket is almost equal to 2.5 teeth down for rear sprocket.

 

more revolutions generates more torque = more work per minutes = more horsepower.

 

stock 140/60 with 14t/42t r designed just enough drive output to go above 10k rpm.

 

u can try 38t n feel the ride, tell us about your bike performance.

 

since 14t/42t = 15t/45t is the same ratio.

i prefer rear tire size 130/70 with 15t/46t (with x-rings chain) or 14t/43t (with norm/o-rings chain),

so tat i can use bike's engine fullest potential, it will generates more vibs due to high rpm.

 

note:

x-rings chain restricted to use 15t front sprocket,

becoz of bigger links, pls refer to previous posting to find root problem.

Edited May 24, 2009 by stsoh

[stsoh]

possible to cruise at 10,000 rpm? my bike can barely hit 10,000 rpm without shaking. kinda scared to pull that much...whats the highest speed u guys usually cruise at with this bike?i usually go around 80km at 6,000 rpm

 

all manufacturers will not recommend drive or ride above redline.

but as human there is always a urge to do ridiculous andrenalin stupid things.

on expressway keeping up with traffic on first lane at 110 kph, second lane at 90 kph.

don't forget, rw speedometer have 10% read error.

it means 120 kph is 108 kph, 110 kph is 99 kph n 90 kph is 81 kph.

Edited May 24, 2009 by stsoh

[lazykatak]

not if your rw is 200cc n u don't weight more than 50 kgs.

 

my weight is 75 kgs n my current bike config is

130/70 with 15t/43t can bearly rev up to 9.6k rpm.

 

i've tried other config like

130/70 with 14t/42t can bearly rev up to 9.8k rpm.

130/70 with 15t/42t can bearly rev up to 9.5k rpm.

140/70 with 15t/42t can bearly rev up to 9.2k rpm.

140/70 with 15t/40t can bearly rev up to 8.5k rpm.

 

speed-wise all tops at 110+ kph.

vib-wise reduce coz of lower rpm.

acceleration-wise (pickup), lesser rpm = lesser torque,

lesser power = lesser drive = lower acceleration (pickup).

 

if u got a 10 speed bicycle, try to understand by switch thru all it's gears.

 

one tooth up in front sprocket is almost equal to 2.5 teeth down for rear sprocket.

 

more revolutions generates more torque = more work per minutes = more horsepower.

 

stock 140/60 with 14t/42t r designed just enough drive output to go above 10k rpm.

 

u can try 38t n feel the ride, tell us about your bike performance.

 

since 14t/42t = 15t/45t is the same ratio.

i prefer rear tire size 130/70 with 15t/46t (with x-rings chain) or 14t/43t (with norm/o-rings chain),

so tat i can use bike's engine fullest potential, it will generates more vibs due to high rpm.

 

note:

x-rings chain restricted to use 15t front sprocket,

becoz of bigger links, pls refer to previous posting to find root problem.

 

 

ouh okay,

cause im thinking of, reducing my rpm at speed of 90..

currently rpm is at 8k at 90kmh..

feel sorry for the bike la.. hehehe...

so thinking of lowering the numbers in the rear...

so far now, my pick up is bettr then my friends bike.. so i guess i will try, ans share with u guys... any shop can do rite??

[phantomintheair]

help in which way????

if u want power, it will burnt more fuel.

if u want economical, it will be less power.

set carb lean to stock setting.

don't ride above 70kph.

don't rush from point to point, u can save fuel too.

 

my fc is avg 26km/l, it's norm if your carb r tuned rich.

 

if u r thinking of ways to save fuel, u can try convert to small size tires.

change your tire rims to smaller size if it can fix on.

then u can use smaller tires like front 80 width n rear 100 width.

as u can see most other class 2b bikes r using.

big tires use a lot of power to drive, thus high fc.

u will be the first converting to smaller tires.

 

For me, I'm alr very hanppy wif the power dat my rw is runnin at rite now, its really weird to go for smaller wheels but maybe will ride around 70kph to see how the fc goes next tym round. I'm happy wif everything just dat the fc really needs to improve by a little.. I'll be happy if it can hit 27-28km/l

[stsoh]

in tat case, u can set your carb leaner.

 

wat's your setting now??

 

for 27~28km/l fc, try this:

1) move up jet-needle's eclip one slot from your current.

2) set pilot-screw at 2 1/4 turns.

[kakarow]

Hi uncle Soh,

thanks for all the info that u have given me will think about it. once again thanks. will buy u coffee if i see u at cka Ok

[kakarow]

Yo Yo,

 

Good Morning Everyone this coming sunday convoy time... interested pls help urself already have 50++ bikes

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237732&highlight=wedding+convoy

[Suppose]

weird..my bike doesn't seem to have the fuel reserve lever..i cant seem to find it anywhere

[stsoh]

fuel petcock is underneath the tank (left side).

 

lever position pointing down = 'ON' = open

lever position at horizontal = 'OFF' = close

lever position pointing up = 'RES' = reserve

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=101310&d=1240630878

Edited May 26, 2009 by stsoh

[Suppose]

what is this tube sticking out from under the petrol tank? it was hanging loose near the engine part and i sort of flipped it over and it just came out like that..

 

 

[stsoh]

tat's the tank top drain tube, it is connected to the fuel filling cap area in case when over spill during top up.

tube suppose to be route at the back of the engine with other drain tubes eg. carb n airbox.

there is a something like a bracket welded at the swing-arm to hold these tubes together.

[xishuo]

Hi Uncle Soh,

 

Do you happen to know this problem that I'm about to mention? I suddenly turns my throttle faster than usual and the engine immediately cuts itself. (Turning the throttle fiercely becomes like switching off my bike T_T)

 

Any clues or not is greatly appreciated. =)

[stsoh]

i'm assuming tat u r just playing with throttle.

when u do tat, the throttle cable r pulling up two things.

one is the throttle valve n the other is the accelerator pump.

the quick open n close throttling coz the engine to die.

becoz accelerator pump will squeak more fuel into the engine when full open.

sudden close will cut off air supply.

too much fuel + no air = no fire = engine die off.

this won't happen when u r riding.

[xishuo]

Actually I realised this not when I was playing with the throttle, but when a bus was getting very close up when i was in stationary position. It gave me a shock and i throttled forward, then the engine dies.

 

So in this case, I didn't close the throttle at all. Does the above logic still applies?

 

Btw, the bus scared the sh!t out of me.. T_T

[stsoh]

is your idling speed getting low??

set to 1.5k rpm when engine is hot.

[xishuo]

Yeah, the rpm is getting real low. Idling at 1k when cold. -_-

I'll go fix it up this weekend then. Thanks uncle Soh. Very appreciated.