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Posted

u pay 4 wat u get........good things dun come cheap.

here's one maybe of interest 4 u......http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283572

 

fc (km/l) depends on ur throttle twisting, as low as 30+km/l, as high as 26km/l.

if u want to save on fuel, dun travel speed above 60kph.

 

rw top speed is 110kph.

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Posted
u pay 4 wat u get........good things dun come cheap.

here's one maybe of interest 4 u......http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283572

 

fc (km/l) depends on ur throttle twisting, as low as 30+km/l, as high as 26km/l.

if u want to save on fuel, dun travel speed above 60kph.

 

rw top speed is 110kph.

 

im going to buy from a shop. thats why im asking, cause i dont know the normal price for it. roughly how much would a second hand one cost? a range please. for 2013 coe. very good condition.

 

 

thank you =)

Posted

just ask the shop how much they r selling, they r oblige to give u their selling price.

u dun find other shop selling daelim, only cka coz they r daelim agent.

cka sell much more expensive than private seller becoz of overhead cost n warranty.

price varies depends on insurance cost, newbie rider will cost more.

Posted

uncle soh, will the sprocket and chain alignment be affected if i change to none stock sprocket? dun want chain to derail...

 

regarding second hand rw, it may look to be in gd condition.. but definitely better to bring along a fren who more familiar with rw. i riding rw for less then half a year and im already changing chain n tires... costing me close to 500 already... my own fault for not checking properly.

racing in traffic...

:cool:

Posted

use different teeth sprockets wun be affect the alignment.

chain alignment is adjust on the rear wheel (check chain adjustment sliding block marks).

 

chain, sprockets n tires r consumables, tat mean it will wear out n replace.

Posted

Hey guys, do you think the guys at CKA would mind if I would to just go down to have a look at the Roadwin 150? I don't have my license yet but I intend to get the roadwin 150 once I get my 2B license.

Posted

i dun think any businesses willing to chase away any potential customers.

u r most welcome to visit cka n query about their bike models.

best if u can visit cka-hq at kaki bukit@shunli.

Posted
Hey guys, do you think the guys at CKA would mind if I would to just go down to have a look at the Roadwin 150? I don't have my license yet but I intend to get the roadwin 150 once I get my 2B license.

 

Hi bro....not to worry so much lah.See doesn't mean u want to buy.There is no offence lah bro.As long u don't steal it is ok bro.

 

Just drop down and have a free view...

 

:cheers:

:popcorn:
Posted

they probably allow u to test ride around the car park but tat really can't tell about the bike performance.

bear in mind tat it's illegal coz test ride is not cover by insurance. should there be any mishaps, u bear the cost.

Posted
i dun think any businesses willing to chase away any potential customers.

u r most welcome to visit cka n query about their bike models.

best if u can visit cka-hq at kaki bukit@shunli.

 

Hi bro....not to worry so much lah.See doesn't mean u want to buy.There is no offence lah bro.As long u don't steal it is ok bro.

 

Just drop down and have a free view...

 

:cheers:

 

 

Yeah, cos I dont see much Daelim Roadwin 150 on the road. So I wanna see it in real if it is what I really want.

Posted
Yeah, cos I dont see much Daelim Roadwin 150 on the road. So I wanna see it in real if it is what I really want.

 

hello i am also riding a roadwin x5. it is actually 140cc.

 

you can contact me to view at 83610113. but i am not selling it though heh.

Posted

btw uncle stsoh, i wanna sk you something regarding my bike.

 

a few weeks ago, i was riding my bike in heavy rain. it was okay. then after i ride half way, i realise i cannot go up to more than 6 rpm. it will feel like tje oil is not going into the engine kind of feeling. after a while of riding, my bike died half way. gotta push start, warm up 10 mins, move then the same thing happened.

 

i went to change my spark plug cover cause the mech saw that my spark plug cover was cracked and therefore water went into my spark plug, causing the bike to die.

 

then yesterday, the same thing happened again. but this time was after a heavy rain. but this time round after riding for a while, it went back to normal. there was not rain. i rode it only after rain.

 

it feels like when i throttle, the bike start to jerk and the feeling is like the bike has no power or the oil not eating kind of feeling, like bike going to die like that.

 

you know what is the cause?? how can i rectify this problem?

Posted (edited)

if ur spark gun cap is cracked, u did change the spark gun cap (this is the cable+cap2spark plug).

spark gun electric leakage can bypass spark plug thus engine can't fire or misfire.

 

there r many aftermarket cable+cap like NGK or splitfire tat have silicone insulator n better conducting core (means lesser ohm resistant).

 

might be somewhere else cause electric shock during wet ride or might be water in carb, ask cka to check 4 u.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

had a similar incident few days ago...

on exp, speed from 80 drop to 60 suddenly... felt like piston jam...

i didnt stop cause can still hear engine running

but only can go up to 60.. when i came to a stop, engine died.

had to rev abit while pushing start for the engine to start... and had to continue revin so it wont die.. rode back to cka batok... turns out the choke mechanism was loose and dropped out somewhere. causing a lack of fuel going into the engine.

parts were replaced and i rode off happy.

 

on side note,

 

next day i ride. on AYE halfway i felt my bike wobble as if my tire was loose.

stop at one of the bus stop along AYE... the bolt for the rear wheel was almost all the way out. the nut on the other side dunno at where now.. whole wheel tilt one side.

called cka batok and they sent tow truck. went back to their workshop and they said lucky to be alive :) turns out the day before the mech didnt tighten the nut properly... so i wasnt charged for the towing or repairs..

 

so remember to check ur nuts... :) make sure all screws and nuts tighten even after a work shop gone thru it. their human as well, and humans make mistakes and forget sometimes..

racing in traffic...

:cool:

Posted
btw uncle stsoh, i wanna sk you something regarding my bike.

 

a few weeks ago, i was riding my bike in heavy rain. it was okay. then after i ride half way, i realise i cannot go up to more than 6 rpm. it will feel like tje oil is not going into the engine kind of feeling. after a while of riding, my bike died half way. gotta push start, warm up 10 mins, move then the same thing happened.

 

i went to change my spark plug cover cause the mech saw that my spark plug cover was cracked and therefore water went into my spark plug, causing the bike to die.

 

then yesterday, the same thing happened again. but this time was after a heavy rain. but this time round after riding for a while, it went back to normal. there was not rain. i rode it only after rain.

 

it feels like when i throttle, the bike start to jerk and the feeling is like the bike has no power or the oil not eating kind of feeling, like bike going to die like that.

 

you know what is the cause?? how can i rectify this problem?

 

I'm guessing your carb needs servicing. i experienced the same thing and then serviced my carb and replaced the petrol filter(mech says it was blocked + dirty) and everything went back to normal

Posted (edited)

1. how often to change engine oil? how much

2.how often to go for servicing? how much

3.reasons to change cab? how much

4. bad flaws about roadwin.

5. how often to clean air filter? how much

6. what major repair must be dont at cka? what can be done at any bike shop?

7. other nessasary things i should know?

 

 

sorry for bombarding this thread with so much questions.

XD i wanna make this beauty my first bike.

Edited by homer simpson
Posted (edited)

pls read previous postings, it's all there.

 

every bike have it's own faults, have fun finding out n solving it is part of riding a bike.

 

just like toyota, now everyone knows there r faults in it, nobody going to buy toyota.

 

it's the same if u know about rw faults then u wun want to buy it.

 

another example,

cbr1000rr 2004~2006 models famous for stator coil burnt.

those whom dun know about it got burnt.

 

many have been driving toyota for years n many have been riding honda for years.

if they dun know about the faults, there r no faults at all.

 

morale of this is: there r no faults if u dun know about it.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

Maximise your fuel efficiency

 

 

http://motoring.asiaone.com/Motoring/Motorworld/Motorbikes/Story/A1Story20100411-209654.html

 

 

With pump prices rising, Biker Boy gives you tips on how to make every drop of fuel count.

 

Mon, Apr 12, 2010

The New Paper

 

UNLESS your father owns an oil well, every drop of petrol counts.

 

Stretching your fuel dollar always becomes a priority every time pump prices increase.

 

Just this week, two fuel companies announced a three-cent increase in pump prices across the board.

 

Perhaps now's the time to tighten belts.

 

Here's how:

 

Low revs

 

Go easy on the throttle and brakes.

 

Riding with a ham-fisted throttle hand or over-revving is a waste of petrol.

 

On the road, there's no need to rush because you're not racing against MotoGP's Casey Stoner.

 

Practise turning the throttle and building up engine revs progressively.

 

Hard braking will instantly drop your engine revs and the bike's momentum.

 

But this means you will need to twist the throttle more to get back to speed.

 

Try anticipating traffic conditions.

 

If you do not have to stop, slow down by easing up on the throttle earlier or by letting engine-braking reduce your speed.

 

The concept is simple - low revs equal less fuel usage.

 

This is usually practised by seasoned long-distance riders who often shift up to the highest gears and maintain a constant throttle while cruising.

 

At cruising speed, they ride using the lowest possible revs, hence lowering their fuel consumption.

 

While you can't always ride this way in city traffic, you can do so on the expressways.

 

Well-oiled parts

 

Keeping your motorbike in running order is also a factor in saving fuel.

 

Moving parts like wheel bearings or chain and sprocket systems need to be well-oiled.

 

A dry or dirty chain can cause unnecessary wear.

 

It also creates friction and resistance.

 

Likewise, a broken wheel bearing or a misaligned brake disc will make it harder for your wheel to spin freely.

 

Care for your chain and sprocket system begins with lubricating them periodically.

 

More so after you've been riding in the rain.

 

Keep the chain clean by brushing away road grime.

 

Keeping parts moving freely inside your bike's engine is also important.

 

Pouring too thick an oil into your engine can 'slow down' the internal engine components as thicker oil increases drag.

 

Test a few different engine oils and find one that maintains throttle and gearbox responsiveness.

 

But be warned.

 

Oil that's too slick may cause clutch systems to fail.

 

Smaller rear sprockets

 

Sometimes you will chance upon motorbikes with big rear sprockets, almost the size of a small plate.

 

There are also riders who reduce the size of their front sprockets.

 

Bikers make these changes to get more punch during acceleration.

 

But doing so limits your top speed and overworks the engine when it reaches its rev limit all too quickly.

 

If you're only concerned with commuting to work and back, consider using a smaller rear sprocket.

 

You will lose some torque, but the transformation will make it easier on the engine, especially during highway usage, where all you need are lower revs.

 

Tyre pressure

 

Tyres are often overlooked by those who want greater fuel economy.

 

As long as there is air in them, they're good to be ridden, some might argue.

 

But you can feel the difference when you have wrong tyre pressures.

 

Both over or under-inflated tyres wear out quicker.

 

Too much air can cause you to lose traction and make your journey uncomfortable over bumps.

 

Too little air deforms the tyre carcass and makes cornering unstable.

 

It also makes the wheel harder to spin, expending more fuel in the process.

 

Refer to the tyre manufacturer's guide for optimum tyre pressures.

 

Fuel additives and chargers

 

They come in many forms.

 

Some require you to mix additives with your fuel, while others need you to place 'chargers' inside your fuel tank.

 

They boast a cleaner 'burn' and noticeable fuel savings.

 

We've tested one of them last year, the FP60.

 

On a 4-stroke 200cc dirtbike, there was a 10 to 15 per cent increase in mileage for both city and highway riding.

 

But you'll be spending an extra $0.80 when you pour a 15ml dose of FP60 for every 10 litres of fuel.

 

Ride light and small

 

Remove unnecessary junk in your motorcycle box.

 

The more weight your bike carries, the more fuel will be used to get you going.

 

If you are likely to perform only transport duties, perhaps it is wise to buy a 4-stroke, small capacity motorcycle.

 

These bikes may not accelerate like comets, but they consume less petrol per kilometre.

 

They're also fun to ride and agile in city traffic.

Posted

Went to the CKA branch at Kaki Bukit. I must say, I am very impressed with the lady's attitude. (I didn't catch her name but she is about middle age).

When I told her that I am not buying, just looking, she told me its ok and went on to explain my every questions politely. Even explain to me what I am looking at when it comes to buying a bike. Gave me a insurance quotation etc even though she knows I haven't even book my TP date yet.

 

I am convinced that Daelim X5 is the bike I want. Just deciding between 1st hand or 2nd hand. She quote me about 5k for a 2nd hand, 7.5k otr for a 1st hand. Ronnie quote me 2k-4k for a 2nd hand via email.

 

Whats OTR btw guys?

Posted

OTR

On The Road if im not wrong. meaning the total cost for putting the bike on the road, hence being road worthy.

stuff like road tax, insurance, machine price, etc..

 

o ya, anyone experiencing problems with suspension? my bike been feeling weird lately. like something keep causing the bike to jerk occassionally while riding on expway, engine wise ok, smooth accln and not much vibration felt. any idea what causing the jerks? i suspect maybe the suspension too stiff...

racing in traffic...

:cool:

Posted (edited)

wat do u mean by jerking when riding??? this shouldn't be happening!!!

 

pls learn how to do basic maintenance like chain inspect n lub every 1,000 km.

too loose chain can derail n cause accident.

read the owner's manual on how to adjust, inspect chain n sprockets conditions.

 

rear shock suspension (non-adjustable) can't be causing any jerking motions,

up n down motion is bouncing, not jerking.

 

i think the rear shock absorber is design for avg weight of 75kgs.

if u r lighter than 75kgs, it will be hard.

if u r heavier than 75kgs, it will be soft.

 

if u r unsure wat causes ur problem, pls visit cka for advise n help.

dun put ur life at risk.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

hmm... definitely not chain or sprocket cause just changed recently and regularly oiled.

how bout the front fork? a friend of mine advised to apply fork oil... dunno if it helps..

shall be heading to cka hq soon for servicing..

racing in traffic...

:cool:

Posted

so it's not jerk tat u felt??

was it walloping as u go around fast corner??

tat means the front is a bit shaky when going around corner very fast.

this happens with stock fork setup (267ml of fork oil), it's soft setting.

i used to have couple washers added to stiffen it but can felt very bit of road bumps.

when i had bi-year maintenance schedule fork n brake oil change,

added more fork oil to 300ml for each leg instead of manual stated 267ml.

this solved the walloping effect while going around fast corner.

 

or maybe it's ur clutch handle adjustment screw/nut too much tat allow clutch engagement to slip.

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