KYMCO Xciting 300/400/500

Jn · April 12, 2014

It has 1 1/2cm gap between the support bar against the tail light cover.

The reason i go for this is because i dont want the ugly bar like givi.the only support that can be thinking of

Unfortunately Jan, here in Malaysia we do not have either Coocase or Givi just yet... Original kymco bar is too pricey, around usd220 per piece... This custom only cost me aound usd58...

1 1/2cm is maybe enough?

At the moment I am not sure of the stiff geometric from that bar with corner

So I will advise you to temporary make a soft protection in between the scoot and that bar with corner.

But like you said then next you also have to giving it some time to try

Kymco rack has also the ugly bars like Givi.

If we talk about "aesthetic beauty" for me that also was not acceptable.

But I found out that the Kymco plate it self was very stiff and I including a couple of extra nuts onto the bottom to make it good/strong enough to not using those ugly bars.

Yeah the price of that original Kymco rack is very high but I like quality and Kymco's rack is quality.

Prices of Kymco accessories are everywhere expensive so not only in Malaysia.

As last I like the strong quality of the plate u used... that seems to be stiff and strong.

Kind regards,

Jan

adierms · April 12, 2014

Ya Jan... Planning to put soft rubber to protect the tail light cover. Kymco plate made of stainless steel, that why the price a bit high.. They r low in weight... Maybe you can share after tried with your 47L case, is it b47 or v47? Thanks for the opinion... Really appreciate it...

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Jn · April 12, 2014

Having Monokey V47 and I am busy to spray the topcase cover into Xciting Yellow

And the plate/rack is not from stainless, but from a special kind of alloying, aluminum, it's a heavy kind of aluminum and then next originally they put powder-coating (powder paint) on it....that makes it more nice.

Good to share info... have a nice weekend

aminbp · April 12, 2014

1 1/2cm is maybe enough?
At the moment I am not sure of the stiff geometric from that bar with corner
So I will advise you to temporary make a soft protection in between the scoot and that bar with corner.
But like you said then next you also have to giving it some time to try

Kymco rack has also the ugly bars like Givi.
If we talk about "aesthetic beauty" for me that also was not acceptable.
But I found out that the Kymco plate it self was very stiff and I including a couple of extra nuts onto the bottom to make it good/strong enough to not using those ugly bars.
Yeah the price of that original Kymco rack is very high but I like quality and Kymco's rack is quality.
Prices of Kymco accessories are everywhere expensive so not only in Malaysia.

As last I like the strong quality of the plate u used... that seems to be stiff and strong.

Kind regards,

Jan

@ aminbp

For Alarm I also NOT NEVER cut into original wires... in fact there's no need to do that, and you not lose warranty if you do it the way like I can ex-plane to you.
So everything is untouched and just fine.
I can understand that people that not 100% doesn't have the know-how are afraid of loosing warranty
The professional way without damaging original wires is based on solder onto the pin's into the original connectors, so removable without any damage etc.

If there's still need Your always free to ask, I'm a freak, freak, freak, frequent visitor of this site he he

If using a decent/proper way everything will be just fine

Hi Jan,

Hawakalarms also have the same type of alarm that you've mentioned and they have responded to me that they have the wiring tips for xciting. I also not keen to use the auto start feature. Can you share how you connect to the ECU relay? I had a bad experience with diy car alarm with immobiliser before where the starter relay goes bad. Can't start my car but it happens when I am home. Don't want such risks with the xciting when it happens outside where I don't have my toolbox around. Do you add additional bypass switch to prevent immobiliser relay fault? Thanks in advance.

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Jn · April 12, 2014

aminbp asking

Do you add additional bypass switch to prevent immobiliser relay fault?

Jan said

NOPE, just connect to the relay that cut off ECU power

This relay cut off everything from the ECU, it's also connected to the side stand.

Side stand down = Engine Cut Off

Alarm trickered = Engine Cutt Off (using the same connection as the side stand)

Only this way off connections guaranty 100% ECU error free.

My next message contain screenshot with the right wire to @ and photo location of relay.

Will prepare screenshots to explane to you in the next view hours.

Jn · April 12, 2014

With you to explain

First of all your alarm always having 2 wires to (dis) or connect for creating "Cut Off ECU" or "Cut Off Ignition"

We are going to use "Cut-Off ECU" because "Cut-Off Ignition" will result into ECU error !!!!

For Spy alarm the 2 wires are colored: Pink wire and Grey wire

I have no clue what colors they use for other brand alarm but it are always 2 wires!! (see Alarm manual to found the 2 Ã‡ut-Off wires)

Short explanation:

* Alarm OFF the 2 alarm wire's having continuity (ECU is working)

* Alarm ON and trickered the 2 wire's are dis-connected. (ECU is cut off)

* The same dis-connection happen when you put down Kymco's 'side stand'

Remove the luggage box carefully so you don't damage the lugage-box light!!

Location from ECU relay (see red arrow)

http://www.freebits.nl/images/490DSC00801_1600x1200_.jpg

Kymco wiring diagram screenshot from ECU relay wire color to use: Y/G = (yellow/green) (see red arrow)

http://www.freebits.nl/images/458ECURelay.jpg

Remove the white connector from the ECU Relay (see red arrow), and next remove pin/wire Y/G out of the connector.

http://www.freebits.nl/images/201DSC00798_1600x1200_.jpg

How to remove a pin out of a connector:

Get your self a toothpick or tiny clip and stick it into the front side of the connector.

Stick it into the narrow open space next besides the pin that is connected with the Y/G wire.

While holding the toothpick into the front side, Pull out the wire from the backside. (universal example)

http://www.pcpartsandcables.com/support/images/pininsertion.jpg

Same but instead using toothpick you can use also a super tiny watch-screwdriver. (universal example)

http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/obd1.pin_removal.jpg

After removal that Y/G wired pin out of the "ECU Relay connector" you can click-on that pin into (picture A) and connect that to your Alarm wire.

The other alarm wire you stick into the ECU Relay connector by using (picture B)

Picture A

http://hyperelectron.com/image/cache/data/FN23-1-500x500.jpg

Picture B

http://www.hi-line.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/PIDG-Recepticle-500x500.jpg

Now everything is fine and you didn't damage any wire.

So if you have plan to sell the Xciting and disconnect/remove the alarm.

You only have to just remove the alarm wires and stick back the Y/G wired pin into the original Kymco ECU Relay connector.

Now nobody ever found out that you touched the wires.

Something not clear, just ask me !!

Wish you all the luck you need.

Edited April 12, 2014 by J@n

adierms · April 13, 2014

Having Monokey V47 and I am busy to spray the topcase cover into Xciting Yellow
And the plate/rack is not from stainless, but from a special kind of alloying, aluminum, it's a heavy kind of aluminum and then next originally they put powder-coating (powder paint) on it....that makes it more nice.

Good to share info... have a nice weekend

Wow, v47 surely will look nice & gorgeous on our xct... But its a bit heavier than monolock boxes... Im planning to get B47 because of its weight. By the way, thanks Jan for the sharing... Mind to share the pic of your case once it's ready...

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Advrider · April 13, 2014

Bi-Weekly Meet Up

Details as follows:

Date : 18-04-14

Location : Mr Teh Tarik Cartel @ East Coast

Time : 2030hrs onwards

All are welcome to join, hope to see all friends....

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Advrider · April 13, 2014

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/13/tutu2yqe.jpg

Don't say bo jio hor.... To those who say want to come please come

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Jn · April 13, 2014

Hi Jan,
Hawakalarms also have the same type of alarm that you've mentioned and they have responded to me
that they have the wiring tips for xciting.

Hawakalarms = Hawk alarms

All manuals for Hawk alarm ......: http://www.hawkcaralarm.com/Manuals.aspx

Hawk HA-X40 alarm (Note all other wire having same colors, just like Honda)

http://www.freebits.nl/images/811HaWK.jpg

I found all pdf's on the www, are we talk about this alarm system HA-X40 alarm ?

If yes, for immobilizer you should try both "red arrow marked wires".

I have no clue why they having a 3e immobilizer wire, but everything

should be fine by using White/Black and Black/White wires.

Besides Hawk advise to use the fuel-pump to immobilize.

That's a regular advise they giving by each alarm, but I show you

in screenshots below from Kymco's wiring diagram why it's okay to instead using ECU relay. (fuel-pump also maybe give ECU error)

Just follow the Y/G wire in my screenshot and you will notice that the Y/G wire goes from ECU Relay to the side-stand switch... over there the side-stand switch doing the same trick as immobilizer from any alarm.

http://www.freebits.nl/images/598SideStand.jpg

....Mind to share the pic of your case once it's ready...

Sure

Kind regards,

Jan

Edited April 13, 2014 by J@n

SGGH · April 13, 2014

Hawakalarms = Hawk alarms

All manuals for Hawk alarm ......: http://www.hawkcaralarm.com/Manuals.aspx

Hawk HA-X40 alarm (Note all other wire having same colors, just like Honda)
http://www.freebits.nl/images/811HaWK.jpg

I found all pdf's on the www, are we talk about this alarm system HA-X40 alarm ?
If yes, for immobilizer you should try both "red arrow marked wires".
I have no clue why they having a 3e immobilizer wire, but everything
should be fine by using White/Black and Black/White wires.
Besides Hawk advise to use the fuel-pump to immobilize.
That's a regular advise they giving by each alarm, but I show you
in screenshots below from Kymco's wiring diagram why it's okay to instead using ECU relay. (fuel-pump also maybe give ECU error)

Just follow the Y/G wire in my screenshot and you will notice that the Y/G wire goes from ECU Relay to the side-stand switch... over there the side-stand switch doing the same trick as immobilizer from any alarm.

http://www.freebits.nl/images/598SideStand.jpg

Sure

Kind regards,

Jan

****. i might not be so technical to understand the diagram. but it looks good. haha. wonder what's the longest range for a bike remote alarm to ring?

Jn · April 13, 2014

Depend on the aerial location onto bike and also the quality of the build-in transceiver, and also depend on open-feeld or inner-city with many obstacles.

If my remote batt is full mine gotta pretty nice average range

b.t.w.

Even without knowledge it;s easy to follow the Y/G wire from ECU Relay to Side Stand SW

I only show that second diagram to proof you that I know what I tok about.

I am also not a electronic dude, but know from everything something

Cheers Jan

aminbp · April 14, 2014

Hawakalarms = Hawk alarms

All manuals for Hawk alarm ......: http://www.hawkcaralarm.com/Manuals.aspx

Hawk HA-X40 alarm (Note all other wire having same colors, just like Honda)
http://www.freebits.nl/images/811HaWK.jpg

I found all pdf's on the www, are we talk about this alarm system HA-X40 alarm ?
If yes, for immobilizer you should try both "red arrow marked wires".
I have no clue why they having a 3e immobilizer wire, but everything
should be fine by using White/Black and Black/White wires.
Besides Hawk advise to use the fuel-pump to immobilize.
That's a regular advise they giving by each alarm, but I show you
in screenshots below from Kymco's wiring diagram why it's okay to instead using ECU relay. (fuel-pump also maybe give ECU error)

Just follow the Y/G wire in my screenshot and you will notice that the Y/G wire goes from ECU Relay to the side-stand switch... over there the side-stand switch doing the same trick as immobilizer from any alarm.

http://www.freebits.nl/images/598SideStand.jpg

Sure

Kind regards,

Jan

Hi Jan,

At first I plan to buy the xa-x40 unit but I purchase the simple one without immobiliser and auto start. Easy Fit Motorcycle Scooter Trike Quad Alarm. Still waiting for the shipment. Shipping to my country is a bit different, sometimes the customs charge extra tax and require additional permit. I am trying to ship the cheapest one first to see if it passes customs. Later go for more complex stuffs...

Hey Jan... you really knows your stuffs... even can read my mind...

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Jn · April 14, 2014

Dear aminbp,

to be honest I even didn't know nothing about the brand "Hawakalarms", but google re-directed me too "Hawk alarms".

And then next a short study from me onto several Hawk wire diagrams showed me that they all are using the same wire color connections

I can understand If you feel better to buy a simple alarm.

But you have to know that Spy distributing and selling in over 30 countries for example, USA, Spain, Russia and, Singapore, bla bla bla

I guess if it comes from Singapore customs in Malaysia will be much more easy.

I am using Spy for about 5 years and it never let me down, so that's also good to mention.

Wish you all the luck, and if you ever have questions just feel free to ask, (maybe I can advise)

Kind regards,

Jan

parotae · April 14, 2014

With you to explain

First of all your alarm always having 2 wires to (dis) or connect for creating "Cut Off ECU" or "Cut Off Ignition"
We are going to use "Cut-Off ECU" because "Cut-Off Ignition" will result into ECU error !!!!

For Spy alarm the 2 wires are colored: Pink wire and Grey wire
I have no clue what colors they use for other brand alarm but it are always 2 wires!! (see Alarm manual to found the 2 Ã‡ut-Off wires)

Short explanation:
* Alarm OFF the 2 alarm wire's having continuity (ECU is working)
* Alarm ON and trickered the 2 wire's are dis-connected. (ECU is cut off)
* The same dis-connection happen when you put down Kymco's 'side stand'

Remove the luggage box carefully so you don't damage the lugage-box light!!
Location from ECU relay (see red arrow)
http://www.freebits.nl/images/490DSC00801_1600x1200_.jpg

Kymco wiring diagram screenshot from ECU relay wire color to use: Y/G = (yellow/green) (see red arrow)
http://www.freebits.nl/images/458ECURelay.jpg

Remove the white connector from the ECU Relay (see red arrow), and next remove pin/wire Y/G out of the connector.
http://www.freebits.nl/images/201DSC00798_1600x1200_.jpg

How to remove a pin out of a connector:
Get your self a toothpick or tiny clip and stick it into the front side of the connector.
Stick it into the narrow open space next besides the pin that is connected with the Y/G wire.

While holding the toothpick into the front side, Pull out the wire from the backside. (universal example)
http://www.pcpartsandcables.com/support/images/pininsertion.jpg

Same but instead using toothpick you can use also a super tiny watch-screwdriver. (universal example)
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/obd1.pin_removal.jpg

After removal that Y/G wired pin out of the "ECU Relay connector" you can click-on that pin into (picture A) and connect that to your Alarm wire.
The other alarm wire you stick into the ECU Relay connector by using (picture B)

Picture A
http://hyperelectron.com/image/cache/data/FN23-1-500x500.jpg

Picture B
http://www.hi-line.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/PIDG-Recepticle-500x500.jpg

Now everything is fine and you didn't damage any wire.
So if you have plan to sell the Xciting and disconnect/remove the alarm.
You only have to just remove the alarm wires and stick back the Y/G wired pin into the original Kymco ECU Relay connector.
Now nobody ever found out that you touched the wires.

Something not clear, just ask me !!

Wish you all the luck you need.

Give that man @J@n a beer/lager/draught

aminbp · April 14, 2014

Give that man @J@n a beer/lager/draught

Its against my religion to drink beer... but I can buy teh tarik till you drop.. LOL.

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Advrider · April 14, 2014

Its against my religion to drink beer... but I can buy teh tarik till you drop.. LOL.

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aminbp

Come come this Friday.....

We buy you till you drop....

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aminbp · April 14, 2014

aminbp

Come come this Friday.....

We buy you till you drop....

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Adriver...

Haven't got my ride yet.. still awaiting JPJ a.k.a DMV registration. Hopefully by Saturday... and I am in KL and "ministry of home affairs" forbids going outside KL... maybe if I got the ride then can convince her... haa haa...

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SGGH · April 14, 2014

Give that man @J@n a beer/lager/draught

Parotae! i think i don't know have to ask you already!

Jn · April 14, 2014

Give that man J@n a beer/lager/draught

http://cdni.wired.co.uk/1920x1280/k_n/Like.jpg

aminbp · April 15, 2014

Aminbp, just showing you the pics of the rack we r using.

Do note that at a speed of 130 n above u do feel de drag of de box. I guess its de size of de box. Have ridden it at 140 - 150 on de nshw. You'll feel the front is abit floating but i have a pillion and luggage. Dunno if its de same with 1 up. My wife has rested on de back rest all the way. So far so good but i asked her to grip of the hand rest just in case too.

[ATTACH]302545[/ATTACH][ATTACH]302546[/ATTACH]

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Hi Kongfu,

Just checking the rack that you are using is it made by Coocase? Any model number that I can refer to?

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nikorfan · April 16, 2014

this is piston kit from Powroll and Arias for Xciting 500. and brake lever come from Taiwan NHRC. they also send me aftermarket rear shocks. i will upload photos later. thanks.

kongfu · April 16, 2014

[ATTACH=CONFIG]303158[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]303157[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]303156[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]303159[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]303160[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]303161[/ATTACH]

NiCe but i wud prefer a rectangular reservoir instead...

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nikorfan · April 16, 2014

thanks. i know i dont like it eather. i order from dimotiv. the good ones is the shockw absorbers! it is the same as Kymco gives as aftermarket. and very good quality.

Jn · April 16, 2014

Xciting 500

Nice update Nikorfan, but is your OEM piston worn-out?

And if yes after how many kilometers.

kind regards

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