Yamaha FJR1300

[kopiosatu]

any of u guys experience handlebar vibration at maybe 130 onwards? i have installed balancers... i don't remember the handlebar vibrating this much on my previous FJR.

 

or did my tolerance to vibration become lower?

[toofurious]

any of u guys experience handlebar vibration at maybe 130 onwards? i have installed balancers... i don't remember the handlebar vibrating this much on my previous FJR.

 

or did my tolerance to vibration become lower?

 

 

Yes i do, im still on stock balancers? what balancers do you have on your ride?

Base on "hear say" motovation heavy bar ends works the best to reduce handlebar vibration.

[kopiosatu]

i got myself custom made balancers which are pretty heavy too.

my previous FJR had lighter balancers and didn't vibrate that much.

 

i went to read online and it seems that alot of people have this issue, some went to re-torque some nuts...

 

if it is a problem, i'm thinking if i should bring to hong leong or back to my mechanic.

[toofurious]

what/which specific part/nuts has to be torque for this "issue"?

[kopiosatu]

what/which specific part/nuts has to be torque for this "issue"?

 

http://www.fjrowners.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=1966&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=&sid=20bc23eb8b83b8df6324d1f220629e8c

 

"I had a great decrease in my handlebar vibration on my '06 after retorquing my steering head bearings and in the process found the top clamp nut to be way under-torqued. I also adjusted the bars and made sure those bolts were properly torqued as well.

 

When shipped, I believe the bikes are secured in the shipping crate with a nut on the steering stem bolt. Dealer may not have torqued to spec after removing."

[toofurious]

thanks for the info

[africakali]

http://www.fjrowners.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=1966&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=&sid=20bc23eb8b83b8df6324d1f220629e8c

 

"I had a great decrease in my handlebar vibration on my '06 after retorquing my steering head bearings and in the process found the top clamp nut to be way under-torqued. I also adjusted the bars and made sure those bolts were properly torqued as well.

 

When shipped, I believe the bikes are secured in the shipping crate with a nut on the steering stem bolt. Dealer may not have torqued to spec after removing."

 

This is totally a brand new info to me...I feel vibration and side mirror start bluring when travelling 130km/h....so you mean a balancer can help in this case??

[Andr3w]

hi guys, i m looking to buy this bike but would like to know hows the servicing is like,maintenance and stuff..any prob occur while riding..etc thks in advance..

[kopiosatu]

This is totally a brand new info to me...I feel vibration and side mirror start bluring when travelling 130km/h....so you mean a balancer can help in this case??

 

side mirror is attached to the fairing so a balancer won't help.

the balancer is supposed to help reduce handlebar vibration.

 

for the fairing, i think adjusting the suspension should help.

there are lots of stuff we can adjust on the bike.

 

like on the front fork u can adjust the spring reloading and make is softer by turning the bolt counter-clockwise.

u can adjust rebound damping and compression damping force too.

Edited March 6, 2011 by kopiosatu

[kopiosatu]

hi guys, i m looking to buy this bike but would like to know hows the servicing is like,maintenance and stuff..any prob occur while riding..etc thks in advance..

 

looking at the manual right now...

engine oil + gear oil change @ 10,000km

oil filter + spark plug replacement @ 20,000km.

 

just changing oil itself, if a bottle costs $22-23, then it will set you back $88-92 already.

 

http://www.fjr1300.info/tuneup.html

 

possible problems are what the guys mentioned, cam tensioner, ABS...

Edited March 6, 2011 by kopiosatu

[africakali]

looking at the manual right now...

4 bottles of oil + gear oil change @ 10,000km

oil filter + spark plug replacement @ 20,000km.

 

just changing oil itself, if a bottle costs $22-23, then it will set you back $88-92 already.

 

http://www.fjr1300.info/tuneup.html

 

possible problems are what the guys mentioned, cam tensioner, ABS...

 

Usually change at my friend shop...4 bottles of AGIP engine oil and oil filter cost 95-97 bucks if not wrong..guess I need to change the shaft oil the next time round..

Edited March 6, 2011 by africakali
Oil instead of air filter

[africakali]

side mirror is attached to the fairing so a balancer won't help.

the balancer is supposed to help reduce handlebar vibration.

 

I think my handlebar will vibrate as well...feeling numb on my hand after riding for a while...where to change the balancer?? Motoworld?

[kopiosatu]

I think my handlebar will vibrate as well...feeling numb on my hand after riding for a while...where to change the balancer?? Motoworld?

 

motoworld doesn't sell big balancers anymore

they told me that i have to go get it custom made. so i called someone to do it for me.

[kopiosatu]

for those who are planning to adjust their suspension to make their ride more comfortable :

 

There are two main terms used to describe damping: compression and rebound.

 

Compression damping assists the spring in resisting bumps and loads placed on the motorcycle, which is manifested in upward wheel motion. This kind of damping does not add spring rate or make the bike carry a bigger load; it merely changes the rate at which the wheel is allowed to travel upward relative to the chassis.

 

Rebound is the opposite. After the wheel has hit a bump, the spring tries to force the suspension and wheel back toward the ground. As you might guess, rebound damping controls the rate at which the wheel is allowed to extend.

 

Spring Preload : The quality of the ride will suffer with a spring that is either too soft or too stiff. The spring with a rate that's too soft will dive and bottom easily because the spring doesn't provide enough additional force as it gets deeper into the travel. The spring that has a very stiff rate will feel harsh, like it's hitting a barrier or very stiff spot.

[kopiosatu]

damn, i lost the guy's number on my phone.

 

the custom made balancers set me back $100.

 

let me go adjust the fork and shock absorber assembly first.

i'll come back with test results, hahaha~

Edited March 6, 2011 by kopiosatu

[Vuitton]

Guys, Just bought 2011 model and waiting for its arrival. Wish to know a full tank mileage. How many litres of engine oil to change ?

[kopiosatu]

Guys, Just bought 2011 model and waiting for its arrival. Wish to know a full tank mileage. How many litres of engine oil to change ?

 

about 220+ miles when it touches reserve tank

220miles = 354km

 

4 litres of oil if u change oil filter

3.8 without oil filter change

[Andr3w]

Usually change at my friend shop...4 bottles of AGIP engine oil and oil filter cost 95-97 bucks if not wrong..guess I need to change the shaft oil the next time round..

 

 

will it be a hassle to change the cam tensioner or abs actuator etc?

as in diff to get parts ?

how much does it cost actually?

anyone done them b4?

 

as for the oils, which rating is recommended? 40w or 50w?

[Andr3w]

Guys, Just bought 2011 model and waiting for its arrival. Wish to know a full tank mileage. How many litres of engine oil to change ?

 

bro , where u bought your FJR? from HL? care to share how much is OTW plus insurance. thks man

[kopiosatu]

will it be a hassle to change the cam tensioner or abs actuator etc?

as in diff to get parts ?

how much does it cost actually?

anyone done them b4?

 

as for the oils, which rating is recommended? 40w or 50w?

 

order from HL

 

ABS issue, i don't think it has been fully resolved, i think u gotta check the history of this discussion thread.

 

40w-50w can be used, as stated in the manual

i dun think that's an issue for us unless we are living in a cold country.

it's just the viscosity of the oil in cold temperatures.

just make sure its synthetic oil.

 

and u can even refuel RON 91.

[HolyBoy]

will it be a hassle to change the cam tensioner or abs actuator etc?

as in diff to get parts ?

how much does it cost actually?

anyone done them b4?

 

as for the oils, which rating is recommended? 40w or 50w?

 

 

Hi Andr3w, I changed my cam tensioner, timing chain, spark plug and gasket seal (its like a rubber) total cost is about 380. I did mine at Bikeworkz and he's very good ! =) I got my bike back in about 2 days!

[HolyBoy]

order from HL

 

ABS issue, i don't think it has been fully resolved, i think u gotta check the history of this discussion thread.

 

40w-50w can be used, as stated in the manual

i dun think that's an issue for us unless we are living in a cold country.

it's just the viscosity of the oil in cold temperatures.

just make sure its synthetic oil.

 

and u can even refuel RON 91.

 

Bro, Loois actually recommended me semi-syn during my last oil change. Would you recommend fully syn or semi syn? =)

[kopiosatu]

Bro, Loois actually recommended me semi-syn during my last oil change. Would you recommend fully syn or semi syn? =)

 

if you don't redline your bike all the time. semi-synthetic will do. lol~

 

for the FJR, API service SG type or higher / JASO standard MA will do.

as long as the oil is meant for high friction usage, it can be used.

 

the difference between mineral oil, synthetic oil and semi-synthetic is just the viscosity at different temperatures.

[kopiosatu]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil

 

"Many motorcycles have a wet clutch, where the clutch plates are immersed in oil. Some oils make the friction plates in the clutch slippery so that the clutch doesn't engage properly when shifting gears, or the clutch slips when the engine exceeds a certain torque. Some oils contain friction reducing chemicals. One element of the JASO-MA standard is a friction test designed to determine suitability for wet clutch usage. An oil that meets JASO-MA is considered appropriate for wet clutch operations. Oils marketed as motorcycle-specific will carry the JASO-MA label. A properly specified motorcycle oil will still allow for the appropriate lubrication and cooling of a motorcycle clutch, whilst maintaining 100% of the drive to be transmitted by the clutch, even under arduous operating conditions."

[kopiosatu]

Transmission lube:

 

Multi-viscosity oils contain viscosity improver chemicals known as VIs that keep the oil from becoming too thin at high temperatures. The VIs are large chemicals that tend to shear between the cogs of a motorcycle transmission. That can have the effect of reducing a 10W-40 oil to a 10W-30 in a relatively short number of miles.

 

One solution to shearing is to use single weight oils, which do not have VIs and aren't susceptible to degradation in the transmission. However, single weight oils do not flow well in cold conditions, reducing overall lubrication until the oil has warmed up. An alternative is to use a synthetic oil. Synthetic oil are designed to have good cold-flow properties yet maintain high viscosity with fewer VIs.