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Posted

actually... if u feel difficulty in loosening the nut... dun force as it may round the nut. try reverse-engineering... spray WD40... then TIGHTEN the nut a bit and try loosening it. more often than not will work.

I am The Great Cornholio!

And a Gringo...

I have no Bunghole...

  • 3 months later...
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Posted

Had bleed my brake at Planet recently

 

Did not see the mech tighten the brake nipple back...

 

Will anything happen if it is not tighten?

 

But i nv see any brake fluid flow out...

 

Anyone can advised

Honda NSR150 SP : Feb 04 - Feb 05

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Posted
Originally posted by aH_gUAn@May 22 2006, 12:23 PM

Had bleed my brake at Planet recently

 

Did not see the mech tighten the brake nipple back...

 

Will anything happen if it is not tighten?

 

But i nv see any brake fluid flow out...

 

Anyone can advised

if not tighten fluid will cum out.. if u are unsure, juz tighten it urself lo..

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

It took me a few times reading this and checking the original article before I spotted a very important part in section 3 which is rare/original compared to other online guides: "Pour a few ounces of fresh brake fluid into the container. This will seal the open end of the line and prevent air from siphoning back into the system." Of course, the tube would have to extend to the bottom of container below the level of the fresh brake fluid to be effective.

 

This makes this simple method a true "one man brake job" without requiring a second person to hold the brake lever down while you tighten the bleeder screw. It also seems to remove the necessity for (1) expensive MityVac (2) Speedbleeders - which I almost bought and (3) one-way valves to fit inside the clear hose - which I was trying to find in Singapore!

 

The extra brake fluid in the container acts as the "one way valve" preventing air back into the system. Thanks Darren for sharing the article.

 

Anyone know where to get Valvoline Syntetic Brake/Clutch fluid or similar synthetics at a good price?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
Originally posted by iliew@Jun 21 2006, 02:30 PM

It also seems to remove the necessity for (1) expensive MityVac (2) Speedbleeders - which I almost bought and (3) one-way valves to fit inside the clear hose - which I was trying to find in Singapore!

Have u ever thought of using a big syringe ???

Same actions performed. Suck out old fluid without letting air back in.

Also a 1 man operation ! Cheap too !

 

Cheers !

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My Bike Outside The Immigration Checkpoint of Mae Sod(Thai Mynmar Border), Mae Sod, Thailand

25th Dec 2005 to 9th Jan 2006

Singapore - Malaysia - Thailand

Total Distance Covered ~ 7000+ km

  • 1 month later...
Posted

can someone explain no.5 in details?

as i dun get wat they are tokking abt in technical jargon.

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

Can I check if this procedure can apply if i DIY change the brakelines?

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Dec00 - Aug03 : Honda Phantom TA150

Aug03 - Feb06 : Honda CBR400RR L-model

Oct03 - Mar04 : Honda NC35 RVF400RR

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Sep07 - Now : Alfa Romeo 147 1.6 T.Spark

Posted
Originally posted by rAjOaNa@Sep 8 2006, 09:43 PM

can someone explain no.5 in details?

as i dun get wat they are tokking abt in technical jargon.

5. Pump the lever while keeping an eye on the master cylinder. Top off the master cylinder with fresh fluid whenever the level drops to the add mark. Don't forget to check your catch can occasionally. It's easy to overflow it with old fluid and create a real mess.

 

 

Bottom of the brake line, you have the "catch" which is a bottle connected to collect the dirty fluid.

 

At the top, you have the "master cylinder", where brake fluid is to be poured in during the bleed process.

 

Basically, it's like this: To flush away the old fluid, pour some fluid into the master cylinder. Doing so would push the fluid down the brake line and into the catch.

 

The author also stated that to completely flush away the old fluid, you need to force [the liquid inside the brake line] down as well. Pump the brake lever (squeeze it, let-go, squeeze it, let-go) while you pour the brake fluid capful by capful.

 

Stop when all the dirty fluid is flushed out and new fluid starts to come out from the bottom "catch" without any bubbles. Quickly tighten the bleed screw -- that will stop any more fluid from flowing out, implying that you're done with the whole bleeding process.

 

Hope this helps.

Co-Moderator for IT -inerary forum

Biker nerd • Windows • Apple Mac • Android user

 

"Kick up your sidestand bro, let's ride..."

Posted

bleeding both brakes lines together?

Yesterday is history, Tomorrow is a mystery, Today is a gift

 

2001 phantom 200

2003 super4 Hyper vtec 1

2004 Nsr150 sp

2005 Blackbird Cbrxxx

2006 Super4 vtec 1

2008 R6

 

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  • 2 months later...
Guest @h_püi™
Posted

where can i discard all the old brake fluid?

Posted

a new brake fluid is abt $5-$6, so how much would it be to get it done at shops?

heard most shops would ask you to change the hose as well when u change the fluid. it is necessary?

Posted
Originally posted by LimHammett@January 11, 2007 12:08 pm

how long does it takes to do bleeding when changing the brake hoses??

abt a hour plus..

unless u hav the equipment, if not u hav to do very very slowly..

:smile:

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2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
Originally posted by thepunkz@January 11, 2007 10:54 am

a new brake fluid is abt $5-$6, so how much would it be to get it done at shops?

heard most shops would ask you to change the hose as well when u change the fluid. it is necessary?

not really necessary unless your rubber hoses are showing signs of wearing out...

Iron Horses... Let's Rock and Roll!!!

Posted
Originally posted by Aalex82@January 12, 2007 08:22 am

abt a hour plus..

unless u hav the equipment, if not u hav to do very very slowly..

:smile:

hmm..

 

bro.. bleeding wat type of equipment they use to speed it up??

Posted
Originally posted by LimHammett@January 12, 2007 01:09 pm

hmm..

 

bro.. bleeding wat type of equipment they use to speed it up??

some bike shop hav a equipment that they connect to the air hose..

the fluid is then pump into the hose straightaway..

:smile:

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2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
Originally posted by Aalex82@January 13, 2007 08:15 am

some bike shop hav a equipment that they connect to the air hose..

the fluid is then pump into the hose straightaway..

:smile:

air hose?? u mean the bleeding hole issit??

Posted

Hmmm.... just so happened the Galfer steel braided brake hoses I ordered for my DRZ was DHL to me today. Will be swopping out the lines tomorrow.

 

The fastest way to 'prime' a newly fitted brake line is to just open the bleed valve and keep pumping on the brake lever. The level in the brake reservoir will drop very fast so you would want to keep an eye on that, you want to keep topping up the reservoir to maintain a full level. If you let the reservoir dry out... you will introduce air into the brake lines and the 'bleeding' process is going to take you quite a while and will use up alot of brake fluid.

 

Once there is a bubble free flow of brake fluid from the bleed valve, indicating that the lines are now 'primed' with brake fluid... you close the bleed valve and start bleeding the brakes.

 

While priming the lines or bleeding the brakes... it is advisable to cover the brake reservoir temporarily with the cap.. or else a little geyser of brake fluid is going to fly up and splash all over the bike during the return stroke.

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Posted
Originally posted by LimHammett@January 13, 2007 12:28 pm

air hose?? u mean the bleeding hole issit??

nope..

is the bike shop air hose where they insert their compress gun to open super tight nuts..

or use the compressed air to blow away dirt when they wash yr carb..

:smile:

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

It's all good advice that has been posted here, I would like to add a couple of things, most manufacturers recommend changing the barke fluid every two years. It draws in water and can cause the fulid to boil under hard braking as well as causing corrosion in the system. If you get air into the system bleed as already described, often you will find it can be really difficult to get all of the air out. If this is the case here is a handy tip that really works, with the system in its normal condition, ie bleed nipple closed and system topped up with fluid, cable tie or tie wrap the brake lever back to the handle bars, or as far as you can get it and leave it overnight. In the morning simple cut the cable tie free and you will often see air bubbles pass through to the master cylinder. remember to cut off the cable tie as starting off in the morning with the front brake full on just isnt funny! Except for any bystanders.

Current Ride Yamaha R1, Kawasaki H2 750

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