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Posted

be4 i was a black . swee swee 1 , but mc for 10days notting to do den spary aft spary 1 month my bike sold . haizzz now miss my bike alots..

Posted
went mustafa.. they haf RJ.. but dun haf the black flat i want.. anywhere else selling??

 

try checking out those hardwares shop ard ur area, they might hav it.. i bought 1 jus last wk in 1 of my neighbourhood hardwares shop...

http://forum.geizhals.at/files/2455/Vfr_logo.jpg
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

hi people out there. i somehow got to get the idea of d.i.y painting but i wanna paste some stickers too. how do i do it? as in before painting/lacq.?

The street is for show, the track is for go. Put up or shut up

Posted
btw here's the artwork:

 

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/7449/dsc00203cp2.th.jpg

 

matt black

 

Wow swee...How long did it take you to paint it matt black?

 

I must find time to do mine as well...petrol stains, scratches and what not beginning to ruin my bike image liao :giddy:

Co-Moderator for IT -inerary forum

Biker nerd • Windows • Apple Mac • Android user

 

"Kick up your sidestand bro, let's ride..."

Posted
Wow swee...How long did it take you to paint it matt black?

 

I must find time to do mine as well...petrol stains, scratches and what not beginning to ruin my bike image liao :giddy:

 

 

can complete to tat stage in abt 2-3days.. depends on how hardworking u r loh.. the tough part is the sanding and making it even..

Lousy Noob Rider

Posted

There is such a thing as Flat Lacquer..Any colour you spray it over will make the colour no longer glossy..RJ pretty much everywhere have..Since you said west..Why not try West Coast area? Clementi? Jurong East? IMM?

09/07/2009 - Passed 2B TP (10th attempt)

 

I have tried to see things from your point of view..But no matter how hard I try..Or what I do..I just can't get my head that far up my butt..

Posted

hey guys, i try to sand of the faring, one Q, do i really need to sand until very gray or just need to shine of the shining lacquer and sticker?

Good things dont come cheap & cheap thing dont come good

 

-------------------------------------------------

 

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/8460/yellowpv7.jpg

Posted
hey guys, i try to sand of the faring, one Q, do i really need to sand until very gray or just need to shine of the shining lacquer and sticker?

 

ur fairing still gd condition la. u dun sand.. wasted.. unless urs is from a buang/crash.. den u wana save $ den u diy.. sand until surface smooth and even.. and make sure u cant feel ur previous paintjob sticker/etc.. then u r ready to spray.. rmb to wash it and sand wif water, den sand again to check and den wash and wipe dry den start to spray

Lousy Noob Rider

Posted

cheap and not bad quality paintwork u gotta try the one @ kallang area.. think it's called replica designs(aint sure of the exact name).. but i think it is tat one.. not bad quality, price reasonable oso.. if u wan gd quality paint.. i highly recommend yeow motor @ AMK... but of cus they oso haf lower quality range of paint..

Lousy Noob Rider

Posted
hey guys, i try to sand of the faring, one Q, do i really need to sand until very gray or just need to shine of the shining lacquer and sticker?

 

lightly roughen the surface will enable proper grip for the following coating.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x26/virusx11/Avatar/LMCDArthVader.jpg

It doesn't matter how good your bike is, but how long you can ride it

Performance doesn't lie on the bike, it boost when the ego broke!!

It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile...winning's winning..

Posted

im sorry im back to haunt again...but some topics discussed are quite disturbing i hope to clarify...before disasters happen,

 

spraypaint are ACRYLIC base.....paint shops uses POLYURETHANE 2K base paints.....ok lets put this in layman terms;

 

you CANNOT mix oil with water..correct? thats exactly it.

 

some guys here are smart enuff to say "lets get a SMALL sample get it painted in spraycan and lacquer with professional 2k!" ....SMART...but doesn't work. 1stly it will turn out nicely.(nice enuff to convince you to do it on the entire bike) but after sometime...which i juz found out from someone who tried...your CLEARCOAT will "out-live" your acrylic cheap spraycan....results? INTERNAL CRACKING(fineline...to thick..overtime) so as much as i advise this method earlier on....better not liao..hahah

 

i think the equation is simple...lets face it..you wanna DIY to save money...fair enuff. please dun expect showroom quality with spraycans....there is not "Easy way out" if there is you wouldn't be the 1st to know. (trust me) if you are goin spraycan...go for it all the way...try all the "divine" tricks, aka thin layers one over another..blah blah blah..the fact is ..it does not last...period. but hey its cheap..to hell with the rest!

 

if you decided to get a paintjob that last...save up and get it done properly....simple

 

and please dun even try rubbing compound with spraycan clear....its not meant for spraycan...because non polyurethane base coats cannot be buffed / sanded / and polished back to nice shine. 2k based clear consists of mixtures of reducer and catylst....which hardens the coat enuff to enable rubbing compound / wet sanding (colour sanding) to take place before you polish as the "wax" fills in the sanded surface and shines nicely.

 

i guess i made my point hope its clear...please take it as advice and TRY to believe the facts...im not trying to be a snob...i have 7yrs of automotive paint experience under my belt...and i hope my knowledge can clarify the doubts. if you insist i cannot stop you also.....like it affects me!? HAHA

 

have a good weekend.

Posted
im sorry im back to haunt again...but some topics discussed are quite disturbing i hope to clarify...before disasters happen,

 

spraypaint are ACRYLIC base.....paint shops uses POLYURETHANE 2K base paints.....ok lets put this in layman terms;

 

you CANNOT mix oil with water..correct? thats exactly it.

 

some guys here are smart enuff to say "lets get a SMALL sample get it painted in spraycan and lacquer with professional 2k!" ....SMART...but doesn't work. 1stly it will turn out nicely.(nice enuff to convince you to do it on the entire bike) but after sometime...which i juz found out from someone who tried...your CLEARCOAT will "out-live" your acrylic cheap spraycan....results? INTERNAL CRACKING(fineline...to thick..overtime) so as much as i advise this method earlier on....better not liao..hahah

 

i think the equation is simple...lets face it..you wanna DIY to save money...fair enuff. please dun expect showroom quality with spraycans....there is not "Easy way out" if there is you wouldn't be the 1st to know. (trust me) if you are goin spraycan...go for it all the way...try all the "divine" tricks, aka thin layers one over another..blah blah blah..the fact is ..it does not last...period. but hey its cheap..to hell with the rest!

 

if you decided to get a paintjob that last...save up and get it done properly....simple

 

and please dun even try rubbing compound with spraycan clear....its not meant for spraycan...because non polyurethane base coats cannot be buffed / sanded / and polished back to nice shine. 2k based clear consists of mixtures of reducer and catylst....which hardens the coat enuff to enable rubbing compound / wet sanding (colour sanding) to take place before you polish as the "wax" fills in the sanded surface and shines nicely.

 

i guess i made my point hope its clear...please take it as advice and TRY to believe the facts...im not trying to be a snob...i have 7yrs of automotive paint experience under my belt...and i hope my knowledge can clarify the doubts. if you insist i cannot stop you also.....like it affects me!? HAHA

 

have a good weekend.

 

great chunk of infos.. :thumb: i still feel if wan nice and lasting the bike shld go to paintshop.. diy is for temp basis..

Lousy Noob Rider

Posted
im sorry im back to haunt again...but some topics discussed are quite disturbing i hope to clarify...before disasters happen,

 

spraypaint are ACRYLIC base.....paint shops uses POLYURETHANE 2K base paints.....ok lets put this in layman terms;

 

you CANNOT mix oil with water..correct? thats exactly it.

 

some guys here are smart enuff to say "lets get a SMALL sample get it painted in spraycan and lacquer with professional 2k!" ....SMART...but doesn't work. 1stly it will turn out nicely.(nice enuff to convince you to do it on the entire bike) but after sometime...which i juz found out from someone who tried...your CLEARCOAT will "out-live" your acrylic cheap spraycan....results? INTERNAL CRACKING(fineline...to thick..overtime) so as much as i advise this method earlier on....better not liao..hahah

 

i think the equation is simple...lets face it..you wanna DIY to save money...fair enuff. please dun expect showroom quality with spraycans....there is not "Easy way out" if there is you wouldn't be the 1st to know. (trust me) if you are goin spraycan...go for it all the way...try all the "divine" tricks, aka thin layers one over another..blah blah blah..the fact is ..it does not last...period. but hey its cheap..to hell with the rest!

 

if you decided to get a paintjob that last...save up and get it done properly....simple

 

 

have a good weekend.

 

:thumb: hmmm. Well, chemically bond paint is the Polyurethane - compound + curing, this u need some skills in application, thats why it is a bit expensive done in shops. Even when PU is applied ontop of the spray can-acrylic, it is just waste of effort n $$ b'cos of the integrity of both paint are not compactible. U will not see the failure thereafter, be prepared later due to weather or watever.

 

Normal spray can application, you still can go with the acrylic 'clear' paint as final n glossy. Proper control of the spray can also required to avoid sagging(too thick of paint at 1 area) and good finishing it depend of applicator control, weather-try to avoid windy area, n try not to apply late afternoon or after rain - cool time. This will slower the curing time and even it will not gloss at times.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x26/virusx11/Avatar/LMCDArthVader.jpg

It doesn't matter how good your bike is, but how long you can ride it

Performance doesn't lie on the bike, it boost when the ego broke!!

It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile...winning's winning..

Posted
im sorry im back to haunt again...but some topics discussed are quite disturbing i hope to clarify...before disasters happen,

 

spraypaint are ACRYLIC base.....paint shops uses POLYURETHANE 2K base paints.....ok lets put this in layman terms;

 

you CANNOT mix oil with water..correct? thats exactly it.

 

some guys here are smart enuff to say "lets get a SMALL sample get it painted in spraycan and lacquer with professional 2k!" ....SMART...but doesn't work. 1stly it will turn out nicely.(nice enuff to convince you to do it on the entire bike) but after sometime...which i juz found out from someone who tried...your CLEARCOAT will "out-live" your acrylic cheap spraycan....results? INTERNAL CRACKING(fineline...to thick..overtime) so as much as i advise this method earlier on....better not liao..hahah

 

i think the equation is simple...lets face it..you wanna DIY to save money...fair enuff. please dun expect showroom quality with spraycans....there is not "Easy way out" if there is you wouldn't be the 1st to know. (trust me) if you are goin spraycan...go for it all the way...try all the "divine" tricks, aka thin layers one over another..blah blah blah..the fact is ..it does not last...period. but hey its cheap..to hell with the rest!

 

if you decided to get a paintjob that last...save up and get it done properly....simple

 

and please dun even try rubbing compound with spraycan clear....its not meant for spraycan...because non polyurethane base coats cannot be buffed / sanded / and polished back to nice shine. 2k based clear consists of mixtures of reducer and catylst....which hardens the coat enuff to enable rubbing compound / wet sanding (colour sanding) to take place before you polish as the "wax" fills in the sanded surface and shines nicely.

 

i guess i made my point hope its clear...please take it as advice and TRY to believe the facts...im not trying to be a snob...i have 7yrs of automotive paint experience under my belt...and i hope my knowledge can clarify the doubts. if you insist i cannot stop you also.....like it affects me!? HAHA

 

have a good weekend.

 

This is true people... I have experienced it on my bicycle already (luckily not on my bike yet!). And please do not think that "... if I park my bike in the MSCP instead of the under the sun then it'll probably be okay?" No. My bicycle is parked in my bedroom, I only ride it about once a month and I get paint cracking too. It's not obvious from far but looks like scales up close.

 

I have worked with automotive paints as well and they are indeed different. Take forum_user's advice: "if you decided to get a paintjob that last...save up and get it done properly....simple".

 

Good luck in finding a suitable paintwork for your beloved bikes. :thumb:

Guest Valarie
Posted

Since 5 years ago, Ive been spraying from Mountain Bikes to Motorcycles. D.I.Y on spray job will save your hard earn money and its fun. U will gain lots of experience from it plus you can design of your imagination. Below are my method of D.I.Y spraying.

 

Items needed for respraying:

1)Paint remover & gloves (Paint remover is corrosive)

2)Glass paper from rough to smooth course surface

3)Stainless steel scrub

4)Nippon Pylox Spray or R.J Spray cans (Color of your choice,primer and lacquer)

 

My spraying methods on metal base surface:

1) Apply the old surface paint with paint remover

2) Scrub off the paint after its loosen up due to the corrosive paint remover

3) Use rough glass paper to generalize the surface

4) Use smooth glass paper to detail the surface

5) Wash and rinse. Let through dry.

6) Spray Primer coating.1 coats. Let dry in between coats. Apply thin layers.

7) Spray base coating. White preferable for most colors. 2 coat. Let dry in between coats. Apply thin layers.

8) Spray desired colors. 3 coats. Let dry in between coats. Apply thin layers.

9) Spray lacquer 3 coats. Let dry in between coats. Apply thin layers.

 

The above spraying needs to be done in a hot/warm and dry condition. Be patient. Approximately, 45mins per thin coat. Proper drying before another coat will ensure lasting effects and no cracks in the future. Have fun!!!

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