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hey, what if i were to do hard-run in, well hard run ins are usually good as compared to the orthodox way of running in.

 

you will somehow stress the engine and the piston seals will fit rather better than normal running in of the bike. of course hard-run ins have a method.

 

it will increase FC and power in some sense.

 

btw, speaking of using the Dynojet, what about the heat factor?. will there be a fan somewhere around there to play as the WIND?.

 

hard break ins also need to take the heat cycle in mind.

For every 7 pounds you lose, you gain one horsepower.

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hey, what if i were to do hard-run in, well hard run ins are usually good as compared to the orthodox way of running in.

 

you will somehow stress the engine and the piston seals will fit rather better than normal running in of the bike. of course hard-run ins have a method.

 

it will increase FC and power in some sense.

 

btw, speaking of using the Dynojet, what about the heat factor?. will there be a fan somewhere around there to play as the WIND?.

 

hard break ins also need to take the heat cycle in mind.

yup, some pp prefers hard run ins and heard some even do it at track to load the engine to desired "running" scenarios. fast, cheaper and also shiok... but may get damage if not done properly or chiong too much lor.

another risk factor... how well has the mechanic done the overhaul job?

another factor... small bikes like phantom or pulsar? super bikes like R1 or CBR? different needs

 

read this: Run It Hard! ... author is someone who advocates hard run ins. the article wrote about the 3 types of run ins and also piston ring sealing. its up to us to form our own opinion how we want to run-in our beloved bikes :thumb:

 

Dyno run-ins basically do the run-in in a "lab" like environment. instead of running bike on the road, strap bike and run it on something like a track mill, following a predetermined procedure. electronic and computerised gadgets are fitted to monitor bike's performance such as torque, vibrations, FC, temperature, etc. there should be some fans to help maintain desired bike temperatures.

i haven't done a dyno before... all reading stuffs :p

 

many things last time didn't study before, me now still learning :D

may all be well and happy

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  • 1 month later...

Anyone knows what the recommended rev & speed caps to maintain to run-in an FJR the traditional way? I've been reading and it says to rev till abt 5,000rpm, but my mechanic mentioned not to exceed 100km/hr. On an FJR at 4th gear, I already hit 80km/hr at 3,000rpm. And at 5th gear, I hit 100km/hr comfortably at 3,000rpm. So which one to stick to? Not more than 100km/hr or 5,000rpm?

 

I also read elsewhere in this forum an extract from magazines that there is no need to stick to any such limits and we should just ride normally, but avoid redlining it.

 

Advise anyone?

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i feel that not exceeding speed limit is abit contradicting. not hitting above 5rpm seem logical...

 

not hitting certain rpm is because since you are RUNNING IN, it is advisable not to stress your engine. well since your normal ridding is around there (as in not those drag drag until prolong rpm) .. I believe it is fine.. jus how i feel la.

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  • 2 weeks later...

hi to whoever is around... I wishes to know should i send in my KR150 for overhaul, estimated price for workmanship is how much? i would say exclude those parts need to be changed... And how do we know our machine need to go for a overhaul instead of a basic servicing like change EO and spark plug... sry for this "stupid" question as I'm still pretty new to the bike world... thanks in advance to those who reply to me... ^_^

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
i tink he means, what are the places to go to do run-in, like run around CTE-PIE-SLE-TPE-SLE-PIE-CTE- etc etc i tink . lol

 

Actually, running those expressways won't necessarily be effective. Run-in should involve the use of all gears, not just your top gear. For best results that is. But some pple still do the cross-country trips from expressway to expressway to run-in their bikes.

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  • 2 months later...

wow... mileage so good??!!! 350km b4 reserve??? Mine 220 max b4 reserve!!! sianz...

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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for the intake and exhaust valve to be faulty, which factors are the main causes?

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/5048/10304130.jpg

"But it ain't about how hard ya hit. It's about how hard you can get hit and keep moving forward. How much you can take and keep moving forward. Now if you know what you're worth then go out and get what you're worth."

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  • 2 weeks later...

my sp sick oso.

when rpm is around 5 or 6k, my whole bike will vibrate.

when reach 7 or 8k, needless to say, vibrate more jialat

went to my mechanics. he say need overhaul.

cos the "bearing" inside engine sot liao. [real not?]

 

anyone can recommand me wat shop to go for overhaul?

and agar agar how much?

 

riding NSR SP.

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb62/ya0s89/26092010103-1.jpg

Yao's Pinky ;)

Riding NSR, Need Some Respect

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Hi guys.. am curious about the price for overhualing my spark 135.. anyone did an overhual for their spark 135 before? What is the workmanship costs.. tat means without counting the parts costs.. let's say workmanship costs plus replacing piston & etc.. wat would be an average reasonable price? Tks:)

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seriously... all 2B bike... I'll recommend you to go JB for overhaul.. but go with a couple of friend... and lastly... remember to go around 1pm ask the bike shop to overhaul for you and remember.. say YOU will be around til mid-night to collect later... caz the bike shop will need 1 mechi to attend to you bike for the whole day.. remember.. you need 1-2 days to over haul and you must be around your bike at all times unless you hungry den go nearby to eat and go back after your makan...

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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my sp sick oso.

when rpm is around 5 or 6k, my whole bike will vibrate.

when reach 7 or 8k, needless to say, vibrate more jialat

went to my mechanics. he say need overhaul.

cos the "bearing" inside engine sot liao. [real not?]

 

anyone can recommand me wat shop to go for overhaul?

and agar agar how much?

 

riding NSR SP.

 

for your case... I'll refer you to ah chiong to see... ask him is it true... at ubi there... planet ah chiong... :angel:

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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  • 1 year later...

bro.. this is old thread, but i'd like to bring it up again.

 

I just bought a rather average condition bike from a fellow member here, its a NSR 150 Honda SP, and probably poor condition to others. Well, i had a very tight budget and it's more of a transport bike than doing anything fanciful. I don't mind flaws, as long as it gets me going without killing me too easily. But definitely, after buying it then i realized it's not really a worthy bike even at a steal price as there's multiple problems. Well, i guess new bikers tend to love whatever bike they can and willing to make some compromise. I know the problems as below may sound quite "cui" or "jialat", but i just love the first bike like everyone. :)

 

My garang mechanic and uncle did mention that the condition of the piston set is not too good, but i'd just like to hear more technical opinions.

 

1. At static, revving the engine to about 4000rpm will start to produce some "coughing" sound from the exhaust. Is this normal?

 

2. This "coughing" sound gets worsen when i hit the road. I feel uneasy with the sound, maybe because i've rode on proper bikes in SSDC and this is my first bike, i don't know if the sound is normal. If i go on slow constant speed, maybe 30-40km/h in the heartland, the sound is good. But if i do some fast throttling when changing lanes or speeding up, or just feel like being a brat to play with the throttle, the coughing sound will sound off again. Can the engine still be saved? :D

 

3. When i'm accelerating, i keep hearing a ringing sound, sounded as though there's a ring vibrating and hitting against its surrounding elements. Does it mean the ring is already loose?

 

4. I hit 5000rpm very easily, at any gear, any speed (probably above 30). Does it mean that somewhere on the bike is not running efficiently enough? Yesterday was the first time i hit the road on the expressway of SLE-CTE, on my way to Sim Lim Square. I'm not sure if it's just because i've yet to get used to the bike, or there's some underlying problem, or the bike's nature is so. After gearing up and running at about 70-80km/h, i'm already at gear 5. Just when the traffic demands me to go faster, using the method of slow throttling up taught by the school doesn't really help, it just maintain the speed or with higher revving but minimal speed increment. I've to really open the throttle hard, where i felt the uneasy torque with my mum behind me (i want it to be as safe as possible for her), before i see good increment in speed.

 

5. I've also realized that mild and slow throttling will cause more severe coughing, while hard throttling will make the sound, sound more like an engine (:D), but both vibrates rather hard with the ringing sound.

 

Hope someone can talk technical to me, and tell me what i need. :D

 

Last but not least, can someone tell me what's the run-in process, how do we record and analyze the results, and what do we need to do after doing the run-in? I know what it's for as described above, i know the conventional way is to run the bike around expressways, but so what? How does it help? Confused, help! :)

Edited by Maestro-

Regards,

Maestro

 

April 30, 2009 : Passed Class 2B

May 13, 2009 : Bought NSR150 Honda SP, laid up

June 12, 2009 : Purchase Insurance / Road Tax - FS4*3*R

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When riding behind my friend's SP, whenever his bike never warm up long enough, can hear this low, coughing sound. "Pom-Pom-Pom", like low pitched fart. When he accelrates, got a stronger, "Pratt-Pratt-Pratt" like someone farting. If you hear this sounds then i suppose it is normal. But his bike alot of white smoke like smokescreen like that. My YBR and I can hide under his smoke screen. I always joke that he always wanna kill me. ;)

 

Anyway, my YBR mileage is about 87k(87,000.0km). The engine sounds much better than those at CDC. But do i have to do an overhaul after the odometer reaches the end? If i do have to do an overhaul, should i do top overhaul or full overhaul? How much would this cost for a YBR? Thanks.

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

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