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Posted
must have damper.. i kena tankslap many time already.

 

1. The “tankslapper” is a very frightening experience. Usually occuring when accelerating hard over bumpy pavement, ...............

 

 

Good quote. More info can read here --> http://www.sportrider.com/ride/RSS/113_0206_motorcycle_tankslappers/

It includes other riding skills

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

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Posted

other than keeping a relaxed grip on the handle bar, does releasing the throttle helps to ease off the tankslap?

 

i think some of ya might had seen the video, speed on 2 wheels where 1 part of the video shows a rider demonstrating how a tankslap recovered itself, as long as the throttle is maintained constant (i think the bike was installed with cruise control), even if ya hands are off the throttle grips.

 

on contrary, if the throttle is released, the weight of the bike will be shifted from the rear to the front wheels, and this will put more stability into the front wheel on the road.

 

so, i'm actually quite confused here :giddy:

 

to throttle or to off the throttle. hehe

 

must have damper.. i kena tankslap many time already.

 

1. The “tankslapper” is a very frightening experience. Usually occuring when accelerating hard over bumpy pavement, a tankslapper ensues when the front tire becomes airborne, then regains traction outside the rear tire’s alignment. The resulting deflection bounces the tire off to one side, followed by another bounce in the opposite direction as it contacts the pavement again. Unless the bike’s steering geometry is able to damp out the deflections quickly, the resulting oscillations from the front tire as it bounces back and forth will swiftly gain in strength, causing the bars to swap from side to side with increasing ferocity. The oscillations can be violent enough to rip the bars out of your hands, and fling your feet off the pegs. You can guess what happens next.

 

2. The easy cure for this problem is a steering damper. Many sportbikes now come stock with one, as the radical steering geometry needed for quick handling can otherwise cause some instability in certain situations. While a steering damper is an easy fix, it shouldn’t be a cure-all; if you’re forced to adjust the steering damper’s stiffness (if available) until you can barely turn the bars in order to keep the bike’s handling stable, there is a problem somewhere in your chassis setup. A too-stiff steering damper can also cause handling problems by itself; if your steering damper is adjustable, and you find that your bike won’t hold a line (especially in slower corners), or gets into a small wobble or oscillation in high speed corners, try backing off the stiffness a little and see if it helps.

 

3. Not all sportbikes need a steering damper, however. Many have steering geometry setups that offer quick handling, while still providing the necessary stability to damp out any front-end oscillations. In most cases, one of the biggest contributors to a tankslapper is your body positioning and grip on the bars. Some people ride in a more upright position when carving corners, but when accelerating over bumpy pavement, that upright body position puts even more weight transfer to the rear, which causes the front end to get lighter. Also, the more upright torso means that your grip on the bars is tighter in order to stabilize your upper body. That firmer grip feeds more input into the front end, something it doesn’t need while it’s busy trying to damp out the inputs from the bouncing front tire. It actually forms a vicious circle: you grip the bars tighter because they’re starting to flap back and forth, but that only feeds more input into the front end, compounding the problem further.

 

4. The easiest way to avoid tankslappers while accelerating over bumpy pavement is to—believe it or not—keep a relaxed grip on the bars. Relaxing your grip on the bars means you must lean forward in order to assist in keeping your torso stabilized. This helps put more weight on the front end, which keeps the front tire on the pavement. Since you’re not using your arms to stabilize your upper body, get your weight onto the footpegs so that you can get your body as far forward as possible; this also allows you to grip the tank with your knees for more stability.

 

If you do get into a tankslapper, keep your weight forward and—as hard as this sounds—maintain a relaxed grip on the bars. Let the motorcycle’s chassis deal with damping out the oscillations. Don’t try to be a human steering damper; you’ll only make the problem worse. Tankslappers can definitely soil your undies; but if you’re able to deal with them correctly, you’ll usually ride through them before you know it.

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Posted

Damper good to have..

But its not necessary if ur budget is tight..

The R6 i feel have great handling..plus u can use ur upper body to counter the Headshake tankslapper..

But if ur goin on a NShighway highspeed happy ride..then get one..it helps lah..

But if ur heading for track..u don need one..unless ur fast & doin 1.40's & below @ PG..heheheheh

 

Juz my point of view..others might beg to differ.

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Posted
Damper good to have..

But its not necessary if ur budget is tight..

The R6 i feel have great handling..plus u can use ur upper body to counter the Headshake tankslapper..

But if ur goin on a NShighway highspeed happy ride..then get one..it helps lah..

But if ur heading for track..u don need one..unless ur fast & doin 1.40's & below @ PG..heheheheh

 

Juz my point of view..others might beg to differ.

 

I totally agree with you. Till now i still dun have a damper.

 

NSH i ended up on the grass patch btw the railing and the road(center of the highway). The tankslap stop when i was on the grass but as soon i pull the bike back to the road i kena tangslap again. 2 tankslap in less than a minutes. The speed i was traveling was above 200km/h. Crazy.... I was really lucky....

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Posted
other than keeping a relaxed grip on the handle bar, does releasing the throttle helps to ease off the tankslap?

 

i think some of ya might had seen the video, speed on 2 wheels where 1 part of the video shows a rider demonstrating how a tankslap recovered itself, as long as the throttle is maintained constant (i think the bike was installed with cruise control), even if ya hands are off the throttle grips.

 

on contrary, if the throttle is released, the weight of the bike will be shifted from the rear to the front wheels, and this will put more stability into the front wheel on the road.

 

so, i'm actually quite confused here :giddy:

 

to throttle or to off the throttle. hehe

 

Throttle up.. cos that make the bike go straight and relax grip. I guess thats what i did when i kena tankslap. try my best to brave myself to open up throttle but at that time my eye ball almost pop out of my eye pocket already and my balls already at my throat....hahahaha.....

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Posted
Damper good to have..

But its not necessary if ur budget is tight..

The R6 i feel have great handling..plus u can use ur upper body to counter the Headshake tankslapper..

But if ur goin on a NShighway highspeed happy ride..then get one..it helps lah..

But if ur heading for track..u don need one..unless ur fast & doin 1.40's & below @ PG..heheheheh

 

Juz my point of view..others might beg to differ.

 

ya i agree with u too.. the shaking handle bar on track is fun!!!

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jun 04 - mar 05------>Yamaha Wr200 FQ3550Z

jun 05 - sept 06------>Honda RVF 399cc NC35 FP 658 Y

sept 06 - may 08------>Yamaha R6 600cc '06 FBA8609M

may 08 - dec 08 ----------> Honda CBR600RR '08 & Honda Wave I

Posted

I need help from u guys??? Anyone knoe wer to get batt 4 ur r606 besides bike shop coz mine went dead a lot of time already this wk.....N much better if u noe the price...Thnks a million...

Posted
I need help from u guys??? Anyone knoe wer to get batt 4 ur r606 besides bike shop coz mine went dead a lot of time already this wk.....N much better if u noe the price...Thnks a million...

 

If i am not wrong it shld be a yusa batt

 

1. automachinery

2. eversucess

3. KS (directly opp Regina)

4. ah boy (dunno got original japan one boh)

 

not sure abt the price. but the last cheapest yuasa batt a fren bght was the cheapest at KS

 

Hope it helps.

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

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Posted
I need help from u guys??? Anyone knoe wer to get batt 4 ur r606 besides bike shop coz mine went dead a lot of time already this wk.....N much better if u noe the price...Thnks a million...

 

huh... so fast dead?

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jun 04 - mar 05------>Yamaha Wr200 FQ3550Z

jun 05 - sept 06------>Honda RVF 399cc NC35 FP 658 Y

sept 06 - may 08------>Yamaha R6 600cc '06 FBA8609M

may 08 - dec 08 ----------> Honda CBR600RR '08 & Honda Wave I

Posted
I need help from u guys??? Anyone knoe wer to get batt 4 ur r606 besides bike shop coz mine went dead a lot of time already this wk.....N much better if u noe the price...Thnks a million...

 

Buy from R46 he selling it at $110. hehehe :cheeky:

Looking For R6 08 anyone selling?

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Posted
R we forming a "visit team"

 

yup we should.

Looking For R6 08 anyone selling?

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Posted

hi guys..jus to check..if right b4 parking..the temp is around 100 and the fan is runnin...is it advisable to jus switch off the engine?or let the bike cool down to 98 and let the fan off b4 switching the bike off?

 

heard 2 sides to the story..let fan run till cool down..batt flat the next time try 2 start bike...other story is if neva let the bike to cool down = spoilin parts..pls suggest

 

for the past week or so..if the fan is still runnin when im about to park..i switch off the engine and on ignition again jus to let the fan run(engine off though)

 

pls advise..thanx

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Posted

guys how u all break in ? i found from other threads... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

advise changing oil for first 20mile(34km)

recc using Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least

2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.

After that use your favorite brand of oil.

 

anyone follow tt method ?

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Posted
hi guys..jus to check..if right b4 parking..the temp is around 100 and the fan is runnin...is it advisable to jus switch off the engine?or let the bike cool down to 98 and let the fan off b4 switching the bike off?

 

heard 2 sides to the story..let fan run till cool down..batt flat the next time try 2 start bike...other story is if neva let the bike to cool down = spoilin parts..pls suggest

 

for the past week or so..if the fan is still runnin when im about to park..i switch off the engine and on ignition again jus to let the fan run(engine off though)

 

pls advise..thanx

 

 

Our motorcycle fan(s) is activated to reduce the rate of increase of temp gains within our cooling system when the engine is running, in an effort to prevent heat from building up past the "danger zone". But when your eng is killed, the source (of heat) is eliminated and there will not be increase of heat generation. Note your temp gauge digits might still rise up, mainly because heat of transfer is not lightning affect, neither are your temp sensors.

 

"heard 2 sides to the story..let fan run till cool down..batt flat the next time try 2 start bike."

Yes this point is absolutely correct... you kill your batt lifespan. Leaving the fan on (with bike eng killed) will make subtle difference compared to leaving it on, at the expense of your battery. No point.

 

if you have a multimeter, check your batt volage when the fan is running. Definitely way below 12.~12.5V

 

 

 

other story is if neva let the bike to cool down = spoilin parts..

This "cool down and spoil of parts" is commonly a mis-interpretation. The indication of "overheating" temp is to tell us "hey... any higher you EO is going to boil/breakdown faster" or its going to be harmful for normal operation.

 

When your engine is killed, there is no more heat generation but left over heat not transfered and read by your temp gauge. I will not be surprised even with the fan switched on, it will rise up a little first before dropping.

 

Cooling down of motorcycle components will never be a 1/2 hour job, with or without the fan. Leave you bike for 2 hours, it will still be hot and warm if not scorching. How long do you want to switch on your fan to cool it to let say 85deg. 20 minutes?

 

Letting the bike cool down by itself would be the best bet. But never pour water directly to a hot bike because that is worst (you just accelerate heat fatigue):thumb:

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

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Posted
guys how u all break in ? i found from other threads... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

advise changing oil for first 20mile(34km)

recc using Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least

2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.

After that use your favorite brand of oil.

 

anyone follow tt method ?

 

This is a very sensitive issue. There is no right or wrong at this point. Many swear by soft run in (I did too). If you read and try to understand the mechanics & logic behind it, you will understand why I choose it.

 

Dyno run in would be the safest and prob the best you can follow their exact mileages. It also puts you at a safer scenerio as doing it on public roads is dangerous.

 

Yup.. I did very similar methods that right after the minute i collect my bike. Due to riding on public road constraints, I can't follow the exact mileages. But as long the basic idea of what hard run-in is, it cans till be done. Here's the best that i can do :-

 

1) Rode out at 1st gear all the way up n down the rpm range from collection (8pm) till office (tuas) abt 10km.. note the speed is already past legal limits...

2)Waited till 930pn, hit NS highway to full use up the other gears, taking in mind to run through the whole rpm range.

3) Went back to change EO & coolant (approx 110km)

4) went in the day day to max rpm (not on 6th due to tankslap accident)

 

EO for the favourite EO, use anything cheap and mineral. You are gonna drain it anyways. :cool:

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

http://www.raceshield.com/images/raceshieldmotorbikekits.jpg

 

RACEshield URL - > http://www.raceshield.com

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Posted
Our motorcycle fan(s) is activated to reduce the rate of increase of temp gains within our cooling system when the engine is running, in an effort to prevent heat from building up past the "danger zone". But when your eng is killed, the source (of heat) is eliminated and there will not be increase of heat generation. Note your temp gauge digits might still rise up, mainly because heat of transfer is not lightning affect, neither are your temp sensors.

 

"heard 2 sides to the story..let fan run till cool down..batt flat the next time try 2 start bike."

Yes this point is absolutely correct... you kill your batt lifespan. Leaving the fan on (with bike eng killed) will make subtle difference compared to leaving it on, at the expense of your battery. No point.

 

if you have a multimeter, check your batt volage when the fan is running. Definitely way below 12.~12.5V

 

 

 

other story is if neva let the bike to cool down = spoilin parts..

This "cool down and spoil of parts" is commonly a mis-interpretation. The indication of "overheating" temp is to tell us "hey... any higher you EO is going to boil/breakdown faster" or its going to be harmful for normal operation.

 

When your engine is killed, there is no more heat generation but left over heat not transfered and read by your temp gauge. I will not be surprised even with the fan switched on, it will rise up a little first before dropping.

 

Cooling down of motorcycle components will never be a 1/2 hour job, with or without the fan. Leave you bike for 2 hours, it will still be hot and warm if not scorching. How long do you want to switch on your fan to cool it to let say 85deg. 20 minutes?

 

Letting the bike cool down by itself would be the best bet. But never pour water directly to a hot bike because that is worst (you just accelerate heat fatigue):thumb:

 

I agree to it. :thumb:

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Posted
This time round, very jialat. He is no a transformer.

 

U go visit him already ah..how ah bro??

Recovery time given??

Or least can go out hospital when?:( :(

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Posted
U go visit him already ah..how ah bro??

Recovery time given??

Or least can go out hospital when?:( :(

 

WW, R46 & me are visiting him today at TTSH, ward 5A, bed 26, about 8~830pm

Interested parties can make their way there, or drop me a buzz at 96950802 by 730pm..

Thank You.

 

Regards,

AR2 Performance

 

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Posted
U go visit him already ah..how ah bro??

Recovery time given??

Or least can go out hospital when?:( :(

 

Ya, went to see him last night. He need at least 18week of rest and i think other 20week to fully recover.i think he still need to go for at least one more operation.

Posted

AR2: tks 4 e wise advise,still doing more research ! i check out mah showroom today,seriouslly cant wait to get it after tp. cheers

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