Yamaha YZF-R6

[lvin]

need abit of downslope den can 280. u don listen to him tok cok.

 

back from perling to sg max u can go is bout 272 273 down the slope through the highspeed turn b4 petrol station.. but for sure u can full throttle for the whole 20km distance back to singapore.

 

above description is for my 05r6. don flame me ok =p

 

 

u wan to try mine???? i can let u try....but once drop consider sold.... :cheeky:

[lvin]

get a ohlins damper lo i'm selling hehehe .

 

i dun wan damper but i wan to get the fork can???

[Benguin46]

looking at @lvin signature n avatar, i noticed r6 n m1 quite alike. hahah

[lvin]

looking at @lvin signature n avatar, i noticed r6 n m1 quite alike. hahah

 

the yamaha R6 is a copy of the M1 mah....u dun know huh... anyway...that bike in the siggy is a R6....

[AR2 Performance]

OMG...R6 05 can go 280? i try my R6 06 can go only 270 den the steering became very unstable den i slow down...den try for another 4 or 5 more times i can only get 262 or 265 den the steering become very unstable

 

the 06can hit above 280kmh once in a while. should not be a problem. Just need alooong road..

[HamsterZ]

Was hoping to pillion a big chested gal... so that when she hug me, can feel the rubbing! kekeke:D

 

eee i don't like.. super uncomfy man.. When they share seat lagi worst..... i got super cramped by the time i ride from bishan to 2nd link...

 

immed tell pillion don't share seat... I ride so slow also wanna share.. crazy.. somemore can get urself fined for that.!

[LamerFornica]

Hmm seems that having a damper is really important no matter your heavy or light as will not know whtat happens but jux surprise that R606/07 after 220km seems so unstable compare to other bikes without damping.

 

Ohyah AR2 sorry again so the only ones with variable adjustments are GPR and Scott's?what about sprint which is selling at bike lap?

[leo_rider]

get a ohlins damper lo i'm selling hehehe .

 

ohlins damper good.. tested.. last time i only use 14 out of max of 21 clicks..

went 280 with it..

[R46]

Was hoping to pillion a big chested gal... so that when she hug me, can feel the rubbing! kekeke:D

 

go changi village find lo there alots just spent they a bit to sit on ur bike and u will get the rubbing effect u want. hahaha

[R46]

i dun wan damper but i wan to get the fork can???

 

bty the rearshock i have check for u le , the pre load can be adjutser. fork u want i also can get for u.

[AR2 Performance]

Hmm seems that having a damper is really important no matter your heavy or light as will not know whtat happens but jux surprise that R606/07 after 220km seems so unstable compare to other bikes without damping.

 

Ohyah AR2 sorry again so the only ones with variable adjustments are GPR and Scott's?what about sprint which is selling at bike lap?

 

Important or not, basically like I mentioned... your bike setup & riding style, you determine. I never had a damper on a 6 year old '00 R1 even at top speed on NS-highway, mainly due to the worn nuah nuah suspension that soaks up stuffs easily at the expense of poorer handling. if you think you will never try stupid things.. then maybe its not necessary? (leo.. sollie huh no intention to kill your ohlin dampers sales... )

 

Even if you do stupid things, do them progressively. I learnt my lesson the hard (heng never die) way by taking out a 2 day old bike old to whack top speed w/o setup, learning its handling characteristics,power etcetc.. That is a stupidly STUPID act!

 

Yesh GPR n SCOTT have variable adjustments. But a normal one is often sufficient. Just turn the knobs and you get what u want. I personally took the SCOTTS coz I don't like to dial in & out whenever i stop or at kiosk coz i actually freq M'sia pretty often for some testings.

 

But note that having a separate adjustments might mean priceier, also more headache in tuning.

 

But then, having a damper is better than none! Its like wearing a pair of gloves is better than none, coz you duno when you will fall!

 

I once threw the right side glove into my compartment when i lost the left. Guess waht and i fell and hurt my pams... cannot type and do work in office...

 

Work our the needs and finance, then decide what you is necessary!

[Benguin46]

the yamaha R6 is a copy of the M1 mah....u dun know huh... anyway...that bike in the siggy is a R6....

 

oh ic.. yer siggy is a r6 ah? i didnt noe. haha!

[eyz]

AR2, any idea wat's the rough pricing for all the available dampers?

[R46]

oh ic.. yer siggy is a r6 ah? i didnt noe. haha!

 

u dun disturb out racer i tell wait he take parang and chase u ah.

[Benguin46]

huh? i where got disturb??

[AR2 Performance]

AR2, any idea wat's the rough pricing for all the available dampers?

 

I don't retail dampers, so I don't actually know.

 

I only know the non locally available SCOTTs (coz i aimed & saved for 6mths to get it , then can ride faster.. hehe) is at the region of $700~$800 depending on where you import, shared freight charges & exchange rates. But with US rates still low.. its a good time to get any damper!!

 

Rough price can?

 

Ohlins is at the highest as always definitely more than $780. Bitubo (MEZZO INTERNATIONAL PTE Ltd) & hyper-pro (MotoWorld) would be prob be close at the high 600s? Not sure... drop them a call.

 

Sprint (dunno where to get except import?) I heard was the cheapest.. but dunno the price wor... (Can check with luciferwayne? Think I saw sprint on his bikey)

 

Ain't informative, but it helped a liiiitle bit... paiseh...

[Steve O]

Is there a delay in shipment for Yamaha bikes? I've waited for mine about 1 months +, yet still not here.

[Luciferwayne]

AR2, any idea wat's the rough pricing for all the available dampers?

 

i am selling my bitubo.. call me if u wan it~

[R46]

Who is the R6 rider who ask about race faing the other time can u pls PM me.

[R46]

Hi guys the mass order is up on galfer brake disc is up pls add ur name if you like to purchase. Here the link

 

Galfer Brake Disc Mass Order

[Steve O]

Is there a delay in shipment for Yamaha bikes? I've waited for my 07 about 1 months +, yet still not here.

[icepurple]

get a ohlins damper lo i'm selling hehehe .

 

haha...thinking of getting 1 but i wanna scotts...haha...any way got to do some repair on my bike and change my pipe to akra 1st den can start saving for damper...

[R46]

haha...thinking of getting 1 but i wanna scotts...haha...any way got to do some repair on my bike and change my pipe to akra 1st den can start saving for damper...

 

Gd choice on the exhaust .

[Saint21]

must have damper.. i kena tankslap many time already.

 

1. The “tankslapper” is a very frightening experience. Usually occuring when accelerating hard over bumpy pavement, a tankslapper ensues when the front tire becomes airborne, then regains traction outside the rear tire’s alignment. The resulting deflection bounces the tire off to one side, followed by another bounce in the opposite direction as it contacts the pavement again. Unless the bike’s steering geometry is able to damp out the deflections quickly, the resulting oscillations from the front tire as it bounces back and forth will swiftly gain in strength, causing the bars to swap from side to side with increasing ferocity. The oscillations can be violent enough to rip the bars out of your hands, and fling your feet off the pegs. You can guess what happens next.

 

2. The easy cure for this problem is a steering damper. Many sportbikes now come stock with one, as the radical steering geometry needed for quick handling can otherwise cause some instability in certain situations. While a steering damper is an easy fix, it shouldn’t be a cure-all; if you’re forced to adjust the steering damper’s stiffness (if available) until you can barely turn the bars in order to keep the bike’s handling stable, there is a problem somewhere in your chassis setup. A too-stiff steering damper can also cause handling problems by itself; if your steering damper is adjustable, and you find that your bike won’t hold a line (especially in slower corners), or gets into a small wobble or oscillation in high speed corners, try backing off the stiffness a little and see if it helps.

 

3. Not all sportbikes need a steering damper, however. Many have steering geometry setups that offer quick handling, while still providing the necessary stability to damp out any front-end oscillations. In most cases, one of the biggest contributors to a tankslapper is your body positioning and grip on the bars. Some people ride in a more upright position when carving corners, but when accelerating over bumpy pavement, that upright body position puts even more weight transfer to the rear, which causes the front end to get lighter. Also, the more upright torso means that your grip on the bars is tighter in order to stabilize your upper body. That firmer grip feeds more input into the front end, something it doesn’t need while it’s busy trying to damp out the inputs from the bouncing front tire. It actually forms a vicious circle: you grip the bars tighter because they’re starting to flap back and forth, but that only feeds more input into the front end, compounding the problem further.

 

4. The easiest way to avoid tankslappers while accelerating over bumpy pavement is to—believe it or not—keep a relaxed grip on the bars. Relaxing your grip on the bars means you must lean forward in order to assist in keeping your torso stabilized. This helps put more weight on the front end, which keeps the front tire on the pavement. Since you’re not using your arms to stabilize your upper body, get your weight onto the footpegs so that you can get your body as far forward as possible; this also allows you to grip the tank with your knees for more stability.

 

If you do get into a tankslapper, keep your weight forward and—as hard as this sounds—maintain a relaxed grip on the bars. Let the motorcycle’s chassis deal with damping out the oscillations. Don’t try to be a human steering damper; you’ll only make the problem worse. Tankslappers can definitely soil your undies; but if you’re able to deal with them correctly, you’ll usually ride through them before you know it.

[R46]

must have damper.. i kena tankslap many time already.

 

1. The “tankslapper” is a very frightening experience. Usually occuring when accelerating hard over bumpy pavement, a tankslapper ensues when the front tire becomes airborne, then regains traction outside the rear tire’s alignment. The resulting deflection bounces the tire off to one side, followed by another bounce in the opposite direction as it contacts the pavement again. Unless the bike’s steering geometry is able to damp out the deflections quickly, the resulting oscillations from the front tire as it bounces back and forth will swiftly gain in strength, causing the bars to swap from side to side with increasing ferocity. The oscillations can be violent enough to rip the bars out of your hands, and fling your feet off the pegs. You can guess what happens next.

 

2. The easy cure for this problem is a steering damper. Many sportbikes now come stock with one, as the radical steering geometry needed for quick handling can otherwise cause some instability in certain situations. While a steering damper is an easy fix, it shouldn’t be a cure-all; if you’re forced to adjust the steering damper’s stiffness (if available) until you can barely turn the bars in order to keep the bike’s handling stable, there is a problem somewhere in your chassis setup. A too-stiff steering damper can also cause handling problems by itself; if your steering damper is adjustable, and you find that your bike won’t hold a line (especially in slower corners), or gets into a small wobble or oscillation in high speed corners, try backing off the stiffness a little and see if it helps.

 

3. Not all sportbikes need a steering damper, however. Many have steering geometry setups that offer quick handling, while still providing the necessary stability to damp out any front-end oscillations. In most cases, one of the biggest contributors to a tankslapper is your body positioning and grip on the bars. Some people ride in a more upright position when carving corners, but when accelerating over bumpy pavement, that upright body position puts even more weight transfer to the rear, which causes the front end to get lighter. Also, the more upright torso means that your grip on the bars is tighter in order to stabilize your upper body. That firmer grip feeds more input into the front end, something it doesn’t need while it’s busy trying to damp out the inputs from the bouncing front tire. It actually forms a vicious circle: you grip the bars tighter because they’re starting to flap back and forth, but that only feeds more input into the front end, compounding the problem further.

 

4. The easiest way to avoid tankslappers while accelerating over bumpy pavement is to—believe it or not—keep a relaxed grip on the bars. Relaxing your grip on the bars means you must lean forward in order to assist in keeping your torso stabilized. This helps put more weight on the front end, which keeps the front tire on the pavement. Since you’re not using your arms to stabilize your upper body, get your weight onto the footpegs so that you can get your body as far forward as possible; this also allows you to grip the tank with your knees for more stability.

 

If you do get into a tankslapper, keep your weight forward and—as hard as this sounds—maintain a relaxed grip on the bars. Let the motorcycle’s chassis deal with damping out the oscillations. Don’t try to be a human steering damper; you’ll only make the problem worse. Tankslappers can definitely soil your undies; but if you’re able to deal with them correctly, you’ll usually ride through them before you know it.

 

Gd info .