Jump to content

About This Club

Welcome Tmax riders of all generations
  1. What's new in this club
  2. Hi newbie here. Just bought a pre-owned Tmax 530 DX 2017 model. Can anyone kind enough to advice where can I install steel braided hose? I already bought a set of hoses with all the accessories. Need someone or a workshop to set it up. Thanks in advance.
  3. Exhausts There are few brands of Street Legal Exhaust for Tmax DX/SX to choose from. All Tmax exhaust are full system due to the stock exhaust system being in one big piece. Akraprovic (Tmax OEM) Termignoni SC Project Arrow
  4. Factory Recalls Firstly I need to apologies that my knowledge is only updated on 2017 DX models as it's the model I am riding.. Currently there's 4 recalls on the Gen 6 model as what I recalled.. ECU Recall (R2019030682) - this recall is fairly simple; go down to Hong Leong to have the ECU reflashed. This recall is to eliminate some engine cut off issues. Drive Belt Recall (R2019030681) - Hong Leong will change a new belt for you... The older belt will wear prematurely. The new belt is improved and can be identified with blue wordings. (see attached photo for reference) Main Stand Recall (R2020030833) - Main stand is not welded properly, thus might break prematurely. A new improved one will be changed. Brake Switch Recall (R2021020941) - Cruise control not working due to a faulty batch of brake switches. All recalls are to be done for free and no payment is needed. Do call HL and enquire then book your slots for the recall to be done. This below photo shows the newer version of the drive belt. Old vbelt had all RED fonts, new belt will have BLUE and RED fonts, or you can check the serial number as below.
  5. CVT/Torque Driver Issues and upgrades Do religiously maintain your CVT as the V belt can break from over usage. Recommended mileage is 20,000km (12,500miles) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Most scooters will have the V belt indicators lighted up when the mileage is reached. Before this indicator lighted up, you should have prepare the consumables for your CVT servicing. If you are using stock variator, the following are needed: V belt (Different years will have different part numbers) Rollers aka weights (Different years will have different part numbers depicting different weight) U-clips aka sliders (same thru out all 530 to 560 models) Right side Round filter (same thru out 530 to 560 models) Left side square filter (2012-2016 are different from this attached photo, 2017 till present is the same) The left and right filters are commonly left out, these 2 filters gets quite dirty. Above photo shows the left side CVT filter. This side there's no reusable one, this piece costs $40 without GST. However the right side round piece have after market one that washable and reusable. This filter have minimal performance indication, the purpose for these filters are just to cool down your CVT and prevent debris from going in. Costing $40 for OEM, it's definitely economical to buy this Malossi one at about $80.. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Aftermarket Variators Currently to my knowledge, there's Jcosta, Malossi and Polini in the market for 530 and 560.
  6. Engine Check Light (ECL) issues One of the most common issue is the O2 (Oxygen) Sensor, the other issue will be the wheel sensor. Scenario can reset 1. Forget connect O2 sensor during CVT change 2. O2 sensor dirty (stuck lean) 3. Error reading Scenario cannot reset 1. Broken circuitry (due to heat) 2. Wires broke during CVT change With ECL lighted up, there's no way to go into menu at all for Gen 6 and above models. Not all shops have the diagnostic tool to erase the ECL. Most of the time, the replacement of the O2 sensor will solve the problem. HL is selling the new sensor at $240 without GST and installation.. Hit me up if you have this problem, I have a cheaper option and have the tool to reset the fault code.
  7. i just done some research.. not just only these differences in visual.. 560 had a better cooling, new engine block with additional water cooling.. Throttle body, manifold, injectors and throttle position sensor are all removeable unlike SX/DX models.. better transmission ratios..
  8. Primary Pulley Greasing Some of you had PM me asking me why should we use the proper grease for our primary pulley.. let me explain in detail.. This Yamaha Grease J is specially formulated for penetration and will turn lower viscosity when heated.. our primary pulley will be very hot once you start rolling.. then will penetrate the gearing teeth to lubricate and remove heat.. the high temp blue grease that most of you think that's working, will not turn into lower viscosity fluid like Grease J during high temperature.. it will just be centrifuged out, thus the blue grease wouldn't be able to lubricate the inner gears teeth of the primary pulley.. The blue grease not only will not lubricate the primary pulley, it will cause the shaft to get rusty and thus making it shear on its own gears.. the replacement is a easy $2k for the shop as the engine needs to be tear apart to change out the primary shaft. Agent is charging $120 for greasing service, and another $40-60 for cleaning out that wrong grease u using.. Do not use other grease except for Yamaha Grease J!! Some shops use similar brown grease but does not have the same function at all.. Greasing should be done as a maintenance job yearly due to our SG climate as water and heat will wear the grease. Attached video is showing the primary shaft that's badly damaged by using the blue grease (blue grease had been cleaned out), pay attention to the sharp teeth.. primary pulley.mp4 Attached photo is showing a primary shaft that's on Grease J and the primary pulley being detached without any cleaning done yet! notice the gear teeth are not sharp.. This last photo shows a comparison between the good teeth and the sharpened bad teeth.. feel free to PM me if any of you need a greasing good time..
  9. @biting_point arh, now I get it, as I only know 2 version of it. Thanks for sharing
  10. @JJBuBBle no no.. I’m not using the pro.. I’m using the pro racing, it’s the highest spec of the 3 different versions for tmax.. which is limited production and no longer available in the market! the best for my Max..!! Haha Manual says change at 20k km.. EO depends on individual, I personally change EO at 3k km.. so it’s about 7 EO changes to a full cvt belt and rollers change..
  11. @Xmaxer For Xmax manual you can go over to Xmax group for the manual---> Xmax 300 manual
  12. thanks bro for ur input. dunno where i put my manual so i will have to go and find it haha.... im thinking to do 1:3.. every 3 servicing then do the full belt change. hope this will be sufficient. i am not doing delivery or commercial now but i might start part time to pay off bike loan
  13. In general check your Xmax manual. Conditions are also consideration on duration of ride and riding style. For commercial use it will be wise to change earlier due to prolong riding. Still its subjective to individual rider.
  14. hi bros, how often you change your belting for every engine oil change? is it change oil 2x then change belt 1x? or change oil 3x then change belt 1x? i see facebook many workshops saying to chance every 5k whole set like this. is it too excessive?
  15. @biting_point woo.... pro is the best of what you can get version.
  16. Mine is special Pro Racing. Limited production. Only the best for my ride.. haha 560 had a totally different clutch, CVT and engine.. not sure if anyone tried before.. but clutch plates are interchangeable.. in fact, 560 friction plates have over write 530 part numbers as they are the improved version..
  17. @biting_point guess it also depend on how hard the rider ride. So you change to Pro or XRP, what your damage. BTW 530 can change to 560 Clutch system too?
  18. Changed as a set.. belt, rollers and cleaning.. I changed clutch once when I switched to Jcosta housing before my solo Thailand trip. Many tmax had experienced clutch slip thus they changed their clutch plates as early as about 10k plus.. but possible to last quite long as much as 20-30k km.. new clutch plates (560 ones) have more friction plates and comes thicker..
  19. Your is super sport touring scooter, cross 2 board one. btw @biting_pointyou just change the belt or as a sets with pulley and clips. Also, how about your clutch? Seldom see people tok abt it and I have not much info on that too.
  20. On manual is 20k km already changed 3 times on my Tmax.. not yet on Xmax..
  21. @snsd555 Maintenance in general will cost more (bigger cc mah) BUT it all depend on how your ride and take care it. It's a simple bike, In basic, Fully Syn EO change is the regular affair after 8km or 10km for me (max 6 months or 10K), depend on your riding environment condition and how long per ride and how hard you ride, the usual practices apply to all motor. When you ride long enough, you can feel the respond and engine, so just change when needed. Drive belt is expensive as the belting is constructed with metal wires so it's more durable (very durable to my knowledge) 20KM replace or when needed, but you can doing maintenance every month to check the D belt condition and alignment (Just try not to remove the drive belt case for riding as the case protects the D Belt while riding and from dirt, water & whatever can go in). Some bike climb to 25k or higher before change. Book mention CVT at 20KM, if you do CVT cleaning and lub in between and condition is still good, you can drag on a little more. All bike is more or less the same, you feel them when riding so take care of your bike and it will take care of you. To me Tmax do carry a high maintenance cost as a maxi scooter (which class 2 power bike maintenance is cheap ) but than is not the scary part, the accessories are the one you should worry about, prices is way higher then Xmax.
  22. Bro @biting_point, how often you change the CVT belt on your XMAX and TMAX?

  • Create New...