Jump to content
SingaporeBikes.com Telegram Now LIVE! Join NOW for the Last Reviews, News, Promotions & Offers in Singapore! ×
  • Join SingaporeBikes.com today! Where Singapore Bikers Unite!

    Thank you for visiting SingaporeBikes.com - the largest website in Singapore dedicated to all things related to motorcycles and biking in general.

    Join us today as a member to enjoy all the features of the website for FREE such as:

    Registering is free and takes less than 30 seconds! Join us today to share information, discuss about your modifications, and ask questions about your bike in general.

    Thank you for being a part of SingaporeBikes.com!

Recommended Posts

Posted

Biker bros out there i'm riding a cbr125r 07 model... recently i realised there r times when my gears will disengage on its own and engage back after 2 seconds..my rmp will shoot up high and i find that very disturbing..is this what we call clutch slippage? And i find my tyre grip on e road is not as strong already.. its just a 3 mth old bike leh..

  • Replies 15
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

What grade of oil are you using? Too thin, eg 10W40 might cause clutch slip. Try 20W50 oil and avoid the full synthetics if possible.

 

Also it can be your clutch cable is adjusted too tight, ie no free play. Should have about 1-2mm free play at the lever. Too tight and its like riding with half clutch.

 

The last possibility is... your clutch plates are worn out.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1208-1.jpg

 

FAA licenced motorcycle mechanic :angel:

 

Add me: http://www.facebook.com/raptormotorsports

Posted

if ur bike takes hard effort to return to neutral..ur plates are worn. need to change em.

Yamaha 125Z-Oct 2006 to OCT 2010

HONDA CB400 SPEC 1 - OCT 2010..

Posted

hard effort returning to neutral means more force exerted to kick it back to neutral or hard to find neutral. meaning Kick 1st gear kick 2ndgear kick 1st gear kick 2nd gear... cant get neutral position.

http://gadgets.boingboing.net/gimages/lego-cycle-helmet.jpg this is not me! :cheeky:
Posted

for the tires, perhaps u should warmed up ur tires abit by going few rounds, worst get ur rear tire change.

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/5048/10304130.jpg

"But it ain't about how hard ya hit. It's about how hard you can get hit and keep moving forward. How much you can take and keep moving forward. Now if you know what you're worth then go out and get what you're worth."

Posted

If the free-play of my clutch is alot (like 5cm), will it cause any damages?

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/IMG_4518-1-1.jpg
Posted
If the free-play of my clutch is alot (like 5cm), will it cause any damages?

 

Can you engage first gear without the bike wanting to move forward ie clutch dragging? If it does so... you are prematurely wearing down your clutch plates.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1208-1.jpg

 

FAA licenced motorcycle mechanic :angel:

 

Add me: http://www.facebook.com/raptormotorsports

Posted

Ok, maybe I overestimated. Max is around 3cm I guess. But nope, the bike doesn't move forward when I engage to first gear. So it doesn't have any effects right?

 

I guess I have to get it adjusted soon anyway.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/IMG_4518-1-1.jpg
Posted
Biker bros out there i'm riding a cbr125r 07 model... recently i realised there r times when my gears will disengage on its own and engage back after 2 seconds..my rmp will shoot up high and i find that very disturbing..is this what we call clutch slippage? And i find my tyre grip on e road is not as strong already.. its just a 3 mth old bike leh..

 

Two ways to test if clutch is slipping / shot.

 

Static test.

1. Start engine and warm to operating temperature.

2. Apply brakes or butt front wheel against a wall to prevent forward movement

3. Clutch in and Engage 1st or 2nd gear.

4. Rev engine up to about 4000rpm and GRADUALLY let out the clutch.

 

If the engine sputter on and does not die immediately, its clutch slip. If it dies immediately. clutch is ok.

 

Dynamic test.

1. With bike in motion, grab a handful of throttle.

2. If the engine speed goes up without corresponding increase in speed, its slipping. DO THIS IN A DESERTED ROAD AND SAFELY. If yours is a powerful bike, make sure its not the rear wheel spinning under power ;-)

 

cheers.

Posted
Two ways to test if clutch is slipping / shot.

 

Static test.

1. Start engine and warm to operating temperature.

2. Apply brakes or butt front wheel against a wall to prevent forward movement

3. Clutch in and Engage 1st or 2nd gear.

4. Rev engine up to about 4000rpm and GRADUALLY let out the clutch.

 

If the engine sputter on and does not die immediately, its clutch slip. If it dies immediately. clutch is ok.

 

When we gradually let out the clutch, do we still apply the brakes or do we release them before revving?

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/eedwinn89/IMG_4518-1-1.jpg
Posted

i am having the same problem now.. but adjust the clutch cable can le.. auto move zzz

2007-=Honda NSR 150sp=-FR

2008-=Honda CBR 400=-FP

2008-=Suzuki GSXR 400=-FK

2009-=Yzf-R1 2004=-FX

2010-=Yzf-R1 2010=-FBE

2011-=Suzuki Gsxr 600 K7=- FBB

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z110/ahcongie/merge2.jpghttp://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z110/ahcongie/merge3.jpg

Posted
what if bike moves abit forward when engaging 1st gear from neutral?

 

that initial jerk when changing from neutral to gear is ok. Continue with the test.

 

 

When we gradually let out the clutch, do we still apply the brakes or do we release them before revving?

 

Yes, the idea is to prevent the bike from moving (in the static test) so as to provoke stalling - hence you can apply the brake or put the bike wheel up against an immovable structure ... like a wall. The way the engine stall tells the diff between a good and a slipped clutch.

Posted
that initial jerk when changing from neutral to gear is ok. Continue with the test.

 

so every day got the jerk, and just now from work, from neutral to 1st gear, no jerk. but engine DIE. haha. why eh?? first time experience.

 

Yes, the idea is to prevent the bike from moving (in the static test) so as to provoke stalling - hence you can apply the brake or put the bike wheel up against an immovable structure ... like a wall. The way the engine stall tells the diff between a good and a slipped clutch.

 

if doesnt stall its slipped? and moving off from gear 2 is slipped as well right? cos i dont think gear 2 can move off? thanks!

Posted

got my clutch cable changed , everything is fine now^^

2007-=Honda NSR 150sp=-FR

2008-=Honda CBR 400=-FP

2008-=Suzuki GSXR 400=-FK

2009-=Yzf-R1 2004=-FX

2010-=Yzf-R1 2010=-FBE

2011-=Suzuki Gsxr 600 K7=- FBB

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z110/ahcongie/merge2.jpghttp://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z110/ahcongie/merge3.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • DAIS_ShellBAU2024_Motorcycle_SingaporeBikesBanner_300x250.jpg

     
×
×
  • Create New...