[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[mjbs64]

PLEASE PLEASE make your payment asap for me to purchase order the items and also NOT to have those who made payment waiting for their items.

Thank you for your understanding!! ...

 

 

MO Xado Products for May/June 2011 .....

 

 

 

Name : Items : Qty

 

1: O'Ren : Xado mini turbo lube eo conditioner x3 ($5 x 3=$15) / Xado Revitalizant x2($21x2=$42) / Tora Tora (dailyHP) x1($9) /Tora Tora Meslo x2($6x2=$12) / Rubber Damper for rear brake: 1 set ($10) ....

Total: $88 + $5

 

2: mfk74 : Xado Revitalizants x1($21) / Tora Tora (dailyHP) x1($9) /Tora Tora Meslo x2 ($6x2=$12)

Total: $42 + $5 >> PAID

 

3: Fiddy : Tora Tora (daily HP) x1($9) / Tora Tora Meslo x 1($6)

Total: $15 + $5

 

4: Fizhlmocca : Xado Revitalizant x 1($21) / Xado mini turbo lube x 1($5) / Tora Tora (dailyHP) x1($9),

Total: $35 + $5 ..... PAID

 

5: Ah-pet : Xado Revitalizant x 1 ($21)

Total: $21 + $5

 

6: Pandancake: Xado Revitalizants x1 ($21) / Tora Tora (dailyHP) x1 ($9) / Tora Tora Meslo x1($6)

Total: $36 + $5

 

7. irahc78 : xado revitalizant x 1($21) , anti carbon x 4 ($6 x 4=$24)

Total: $45 + $5 ..... PAID

 

8: husher : chain stabiliser x 1 ($7)

Total: $7 + $5

 

9: Alvin : Xado Revitalizant x 1 ($21)

Total: $21 + $5 ... PAID

 

 

Note:

Please note the $5 is the shipping cost! ... and

Tora Tora daily upgrade to Daily HP (MG1367T)

 

 

[ORen]

http://sg.news.yahoo.com/blogs/singaporescene/two-porean-women-detained-strip-searched-m-sia-153412363.html

 

Mother fcukers

 

The ladies are a bit stupid too.. in which dream world do you cross a country's border without official approval ?? Your passport isn't stamped, you park your car and sit at the customs until someone shows up, you don't drive in !!!!!!

[fizhlmocca]

PLEASE PLEASE make your payment asap for me to purchase order the items and also NOT to have those who made payment waiting for their items.

Thank you for your understanding!! ...

 

 

MO Xado Products for May/June 2011 .....

 

 

 

Name : Items : Qty

 

1: O'Ren : Xado mini turbo lube eo conditioner x3 ($5 x 3=$15) / Xado Revitalizant x2($21x2=$42) / Tora Tora (dailyHP) x1($9) /Tora Tora Meslo x2($6x2=$12) / Rubber Damper for rear brake: 1 set ($10) ....

Total: $88 + $5

 

2: mfk74 : Xado Revitalizants x1($21) / Tora Tora (dailyHP) x1($9) /Tora Tora Meslo x2 ($6x2=$12)

Total: $42 + $5 >> PAID

 

3: Fiddy : Tora Tora (daily HP) x1($9) / Tora Tora Meslo x 1($6)

Total: $15 + $5

 

4: Fizhlmocca : Xado Revitalizant x 1($21) / Xado mini turbo lube x 1($5) / Tora Tora (dailyHP) x1($9),

Total: $35 + $5 ..... PAID

 

5: Ah-pet : Xado Revitalizant x 1 ($21)

Total: $21 + $5

 

6: Pandancake: Xado Revitalizants x1 ($21) / Tora Tora (dailyHP) x1 ($9) / Tora Tora Meslo x1($6)

Total: $36 + $5

 

7. irahc78 : xado revitalizant x 1($21) , anti carbon x 4 ($6 x 4=$24)

Total: $45 + $5 ..... PAID

 

8: husher : chain stabiliser x 1 ($7)

Total: $7 + $5

 

9: Alvin : Xado Revitalizant x 1 ($21)

Total: $21 + $5 ... PAID

 

 

Note:

Please note the $5 is the shipping cost! ... and

Tora Tora daily upgrade to Daily HP (MG1367T)

 

 

 

O$P$...hehehe

[ORen]

PLEASE PLEASE make your payment asap for me to purchase order the items and also NOT to have those who made payment waiting for their items.

Thank you for your understanding!! ...

 

 

MO Xado Products for May/June 2011 .....

 

 

 

Name : Items : Qty

 

1: O'Ren : Xado mini turbo lube eo conditioner x3 ($5 x 3=$15) / Xado Revitalizant x2($21x2=$42) / Tora Tora (dailyHP) x1($9) /Tora Tora Meslo x2($6x2=$12) / Rubber Damper for rear brake: 1 set ($10) ....

Total: $88 + $5

 

 

 

 

I'm really sorry MJ, I kept forgetting to pay . Just made the transfer, transaction Ref: 6820503305

Thank you for your patience, and I apologize for taking so long to send the money !

[ORen]

the physical wire may be going in different direction but when u draw the circuit on a paper, if the positive and negative wire touches at some point without any load(component) in between them, then that's called a short..

 

yeh look out wires out side the battery or from where you have tapped the power from.. trace them (follow them literally) to find whether they are meeting at some point before going in to a component,

 

next is see whether any component has been attached in a reverse manner, meaning to say that +ve with -ve and -ve with +ve rather than +ve of the wire to the +ve of the component and the -ve of the wire with the -ve side of the component... this logic is just like you reverse the polarity of a battery in a battery operated equipment and it would not work.

 

next best way to tell whether a circuit is short is.. the moment u switch on the the power if any component turns really hot in a very very short period of time (say 5-15 sec) then its definitely shortened n switch off immediately.. do touch them momentarily at your own risk... but if it takes some time to get heat up then it shouldn't be an issue as it is a normal heating up of a circuit...

 

That's exactly what happens !

Thank you to both you and Alvin for all the advice and directions. I will have a look in a bit, today was busier than I expected and I couldn't do it earlier. Now I'll move the bike under a carpark light and shall investigate

[ORen]

Here .. we are bikers!! .... no politics here!! ... no racists here !! ... PLEASE LAH!!!

 

 

Ironhide: Why are we fighting to save the humans? They're a primitive and violent race.

 

Optimus Prime: Were we so different? They're a young species. They have much to learn. But I've seen goodness in them. Freedom is the right of all sentient beings. You all know there's only one way to end this war: we must destroy the Cube. If all else fails, I will unite it with the spark in my chest.

 

Ratchet: That's suicide! The Cube is raw power, it could destroy you both!

 

Optimus Prime: A necessary sacrifice to bring peace to this planet. We cannot let the humans pay for our mistakes. It's been an honor serving with you all.

 

 

 

Agree with the non transformers part ! (the transformers part I can't comment on, MJ is in his own world haha..).

We can debate Yhang about racism and discrimination when we gather for drinks and food.

But true what Gaban says.. it is everywhere, not just Malaysia. It's up to each one of us to not fall in the trap and always remember to treat others with an open mind, fairness and kindness, regardless what they look like, what their name is, or what they ride, even if they ride kup kias

 

Peace and happiness people !

[fizhlmocca]

The ladies are a bit stupid too.. in which dream world do you cross a country's border without official approval ?? Your passport isn't stamped' date=' you park your car and sit at the customs until someone shows up, you don't drive in !!!!!![/quote']

 

Yup its a serious offence under the immigration act......maybe the lure of cheap petrol and cigarettes is too much for them to handle so they decided to risk it all....hehe

[ORen]

back to bikes, do u all use two different products ? one to clean ur chain while another to lube?

 

You don't have to use 2 products: clean the chain with water and soap if you don't have anything else, then use newspaper to take off the grim.

If you have kerosen, use that. If you have WD40, use that. If not, water soap and a brush will do.

Then when its dry, lube it with your choice of chain oil

[ORen]

Yup its a serious offence under the immigration act......maybe the lure of cheap petrol and cigarettes is too much for them to handle so they decided to risk it all....hehe

 

You're always at Tuas ? what will be your shift this Friday (isa) ? It would be cool if you stamped our passport on the way out for our trip !

[m0bIlEnErD]

let's not get into Politics, Religion or Women here.

wars have started with these topics.

 

peace!!! and murtabak !!!

[m0bIlEnErD]

@O'Ren : finally the big day is near. hope you sorted your bike out and let's all meet up on wednesday.

[m0bIlEnErD]

@O'Ren : finally the big day is near. hope you sorted your bike out and let's all meet up on wednesday.

[fizhlmocca]

You're always at Tuas ? what will be your shift this Friday (isa) ? It would be cool if you stamped our passport on the way out for our trip !

 

it's my night shift....morning and night shift i will not be doing immigration or customs clearance...i'll will be in my lab analysing stuff (secret cannot say one)....only on certain afternoon shift i will do immigration or customs clearance

[alvinyansg]

this week whole week busy...got an adventure camp to conduct on fri to sat...

busy preparing can't come 2ml...

[revhappy]

I just got a letter from LTA stating that the ERP gantry couldn't read my IU properly. No fine has been imposed, its just an advisory. When I put the card in the IU, it shows the remaining balance. I am wondering if my IU is gone. It is out of warranty, somemore

[Fredd]

i juz saw a TP riding a gilera..and is girl..oh so hot..hehehe

[ORen]

@O'Ren : finally the big day is near. hope you sorted your bike out and let's all meet up on wednesday.

 

Have to wait for Thursday, meeting the Vietnamese guide who's dropping by SG.

And still trying to figure out what's up with the electric stuff. Read more below

[ORen]

Ok so here's what I found out when looking more closely into my bike's wires:

 

- no positive wire ever touches a negative wire. No wires touching each other except through the positive plate of the fuse box but that's normal, like wires on the positive bolt of the battery.

 

- the first switch I used for the aux lights had one of its wires completely rusted at the pin connection. The wire going from that pin was burned right after the pin. The other wire is perfectly ok.

 

- the second switch I used for the aux light had the same symptoms, except the wire going from the rusted pin was not burned, but after cutting in I saw the metallic wire inside was all fried.

 

- my bullets switch has the exact same symptoms. Rusted/burnt on one wire from one pin. I checked it out of curiosity and I think in a week or so it would have gave up, the wire from the rusted pin was completely burnt inside but somehow the rusted metal threads managed to keep the current flowing.

 

- although I can't ruled it out completely, I don't think any water got inside: all switches were wired with connectors with a plastic cap. On top of that, each switch was encapsulated in heat shrinking tube going far beyond the connectors of the wires. The switches were then covered by several layers of electrical tape. A layer of ziplock bag was then zip tied on top of it.

 

 

Questions:

1. What can cause wires to fry to the point of rusting, if not a pos/Meg touching ?

2. I measured 3A on average on my battery and my wires everywhere on the bike. Is that normal ?

3. It's always the wire connecting the switch to the fuse box that fried, never the one after the switch, going to the accessory. Yet, I don't know what can be the cause, anyone has ideas ?

4. Besides checking the wires, the voltage and amperage, what other simple tests can I do to check my wiring before plugging it again ?

 

I'm going to google how wires fry and what can explain burning wires, because unless I understand what's causing this, there's no point in re-wiring...

[alvinyansg]

Ok so here's what I found out when looking more closely into my bike's wires:

 

- no positive wire ever touches a negative wire. No wires touching each other except through the positive plate of the fuse box but that's normal, like wires on the positive bolt of the battery.

 

- the first switch I used for the aux lights had one of its wires completely rusted at the pin connection. The wire going from that pin was burned right after the pin. The other wire is perfectly ok.

 

- the second switch I used for the aux light had the same symptoms, except the wire going from the rusted pin was not burned, but after cutting in I saw the metallic wire inside was all fried.

 

- my bullets switch has the exact same symptoms. Rusted/burnt on one wire from one pin. I checked it out of curiosity and I think in a week or so it would have gave up, the wire from the rusted pin was completely burnt inside but somehow the rusted metal threads managed to keep the current flowing.

 

- although I can't ruled it out completely, I don't think any water got inside: all switches were wired with connectors with a plastic cap. On top of that, each switch was encapsulated in heat shrinking tube going far beyond the connectors of the wires. The switches were then covered by several layers of electrical tape. A layer of ziplock bag was then zip tied on top of it.

 

 

Questions:

1. What can cause wires to fry to the point of rusting, if not a pos/Meg touching ?

2. I measured 3A on average on my battery and my wires everywhere on the bike. Is that normal ?

3. It's always the wire connecting the switch to the fuse box that fried, never the one after the switch, going to the accessory. Yet, I don't know what can be the cause, anyone has ideas ?

4. Besides checking the wires, the voltage and amperage, what other simple tests can I do to check my wiring before plugging it again ?

 

I'm going to google how wires fry and what can explain burning wires, because unless I understand what's causing this, there's no point in re-wiring...

 

try this out...

remove the fuse box and connect direct then see(do only if you have spare switches)

isolate away the fuse box 1st...

then add in with the fuse box without another other things connected to it only your aux lights...

then slowly add in the other connections...

[-Gu0Zz-]

Ok so here's what I found out when looking more closely into my bike's wires:

 

- no positive wire ever touches a negative wire. No wires touching each other except through the positive plate of the fuse box but that's normal, like wires on the positive bolt of the battery.

 

- the first switch I used for the aux lights had one of its wires completely rusted at the pin connection. The wire going from that pin was burned right after the pin. The other wire is perfectly ok.

 

- the second switch I used for the aux light had the same symptoms, except the wire going from the rusted pin was not burned, but after cutting in I saw the metallic wire inside was all fried.

 

- my bullets switch has the exact same symptoms. Rusted/burnt on one wire from one pin. I checked it out of curiosity and I think in a week or so it would have gave up, the wire from the rusted pin was completely burnt inside but somehow the rusted metal threads managed to keep the current flowing.

 

- although I can't ruled it out completely, I don't think any water got inside: all switches were wired with connectors with a plastic cap. On top of that, each switch was encapsulated in heat shrinking tube going far beyond the connectors of the wires. The switches were then covered by several layers of electrical tape. A layer of ziplock bag was then zip tied on top of it.

 

 

Questions:

1. What can cause wires to fry to the point of rusting, if not a pos/Meg touching ?

2. I measured 3A on average on my battery and my wires everywhere on the bike. Is that normal ?

3. It's always the wire connecting the switch to the fuse box that fried, never the one after the switch, going to the accessory. Yet, I don't know what can be the cause, anyone has ideas ?

4. Besides checking the wires, the voltage and amperage, what other simple tests can I do to check my wiring before plugging it again ?

 

I'm going to google how wires fry and what can explain burning wires, because unless I understand what's causing this, there's no point in re-wiring...

 

Funny uh. it's very unlikely that the wires have burnt unless there's a high current surge for a good amount of time. most likely the heat generated by the wires melted the plastic insulation. most wires should fall below .1 Ohms which means u need alot of current to generate enough heat to be able to melt things.

 

Try checking the resistance of the burnt wires and pins? Electrolysis might have occured on parts which might happen to be exposed to water, causing O2 to form which then reacts with the exposed metal to air and then causing it to rust.

[ORen]

Thanks Alvin, I was coming to that conclusion as well. Been trying to avoid having to do it - but it what it is.

 

After reading a bit about this, I understand a bit better a few things :

 

- any connector not tight enough, any loose connection, or any possibility for humidity to reach a wire is likely sooner or later to cause wires to burn or fuse to blow

 

- the more stuff added to an electrical circuit, the more resistance is created on the circuit. This causes the wires to overheat.

 

- thicker wires can take more stress (mainly amps drawn), but they won't make up for a flimsy connection.

 

I found this page which is really good to understand how a bike wiring works and also has more general bike stuff : http://www.btinternet.com/~jhpart/bkwirec.htm

 

I'm gonna redo all my connections and troubleshoot the fuse box like you suggested.

[ORen]

Funny uh. it's very unlikely that the wires have burnt unless there's a high current surge for a good amount of time. most likely the heat generated by the wires melted the plastic insulation. most wires should fall below .1 Ohms which means u need alot of current to generate enough heat to be able to melt things.

 

Try checking the resistance of the burnt wires and pins? Electrolysis might have occured on parts which might happen to be exposed to water, causing O2 to form which then reacts with the exposed metal to air and then causing it to rust.

 

I don't know how to check the resistance, when I put the voltmeter on the ohm symbol it only tells me if the wire is faulty or not, is that what you mean by checking resistance ?

 

What causes electrolysis ?

 

Agree with you on why the burning/melting but for now the only plausible reason would be bad connectors, although really I usually don't do a quick job at it, I make sure they are well done and insulated so I don't know...but I'll redo them nonetheless..

 

Oh and how about the 3A I registered at the battery and on my wires? Is that normal ? It can't be, if I have accessories that only need 1 A ?

[-Gu0Zz-]

Thanks Alvin, I was coming to that conclusion as well. Been trying to avoid having to do it - but it what it is.

 

After reading a bit about this, I understand a bit better a few things :

 

- any connector not tight enough, any loose connection, or any possibility for humidity to reach a wire is likely sooner or later to cause wires to burn or fuse to blow

 

- the more stuff added to an electrical circuit, the more resistance is created on the circuit. This causes the wires to overheat.

 

- thicker wires can take more stress (mainly amps drawn), but they won't make up for a flimsy connection.

 

I found this page which is really good to understand how a bike wiring works and also has more general bike stuff : http://www.btinternet.com/~jhpart/bkwirec.htm

 

I'm gonna redo all my connections and troubleshoot the fuse box like you suggested.

 

actually. the resistance added to the circult doesn't cause it to over heat. but additional components draws more current. that's what that causes joule heating in wires.

for Vehicles, vibrations against a sharp edge could also be a cause that severs wires. my 04-R1 actually had this problem.

U dont really need thicker wires, just more strands connected in parallel.

[SC Gaban]

i juz saw a TP riding a gilera..and is girl..oh so hot..hehehe

 

nahh,d chicks at bbdc are even hotter. oohohoho!! btw, i went there to cancel my class 2.

 

at fb u mentioned about my rear tyre sound. i did checked up dis evening, it could be the place around d spoket or worse, inside the engine. gona go bike shop 2moro to c wats going on, guess that time when my clutch cable snapped, i had to force shift gears. the result could be a damage to the inner engine. i pray its not.

[-Gu0Zz-]

I don't know how to check the resistance, when I put the voltmeter on the ohm symbol it only tells me if the wire is faulty or not, is that what you mean by checking resistance ?

 

What causes electrolysis ?

 

Agree with you on why the burning/melting but for now the only plausible reason would be bad connectors, although really I usually don't do a quick job at it, I make sure they are well done and insulated so I don't know...but I'll redo them nonetheless..

 

Oh and how about the 3A I registered at the battery and on my wires? Is that normal ? It can't be, if I have accessories that only need 1 A ?

 

electrolysis is caused by current flowing in a electrolytic medium, which can also mean water. it causes metal ions to be discharged, or in the case of H20, it causes h2 and O2 to be discharged.

3A is alot actually ! it means your bike consumes 36Watts of power with nothing on??

To check resistance, u need a multi meter.