Modifications (DIY and low costs)

[snowparang]

I happen to park next to a Varadero 1000 and noticed that the forks and calipers are exactly the same as the VFR.

 

Hence, is the top triple clamp compatible as well? This is because the Vara uses handlebars rather than clipons and if we can use it on the VFR, we can raise the hand position.

 

I believe the TP's VFR also uses a raised handle bar and an adjustable touring screen. Are they available for public sale or only police can order?

 

Anyone has any ideas? Tks!

[snowparang]

This is what I wanted...

 

Wanted to raised the handlebar position. Alternative products like Heli-bar isn't really effective.

 

However, Honda actually produce a VFR with a high position handlebar, found on their VFR800 Police bikes. Here's some pics (not very clear though)

 

http://www.pbase.com/snowparang/image/82318135/original.jpg

 

Manage to found a vendor online but it's blardy expensive! Hence anybody knows if this is available from Honda itself?

http://shopping.hobidas.com/shop/partsbox/item/hbk607a.html

 

Else, is it cheaper to manufacture this?

 

http://www.pbase.com/snowparang/image/82318081/original.jpg

[sfowner]

This is what I wanted...

 

Wanted to raised the handlebar position. Alternative products like Heli-bar isn't really effective.

 

 

Can share why the helibars not so good?

[snowparang]

Can share why the helibars not so good?

Well it's my personal opinion...

 

Because the helibars only raise the handlebars, but there is a limit considering clearance with the windshield, especially if you have a double bubble. Right now my stock bars are already almost hitting my ZG.

 

Hence for a more comfortable or upright position, the bars have to move up and backwards.

[sfowner]

I see. Thanks for the explanation.

hope u find the bars u like. Personally, i like the sporty position of my clipons, but not sure if it's the same position for every model.

[Roger1605198916]

http://www.thurn-motorsport.de/html/lenker-rc46_1.html

 

http://www.thurn-motorsport.de/49-SBKL46-gesamt.jpg

 

happen to saw this

hope this help

[snowparang]

Just to share what this guy in Singapore did to his 2000 VFR. Nice!

 

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=39186

[CKC]

I say man tat is wicked

[Echelon]

Really nice.

[GuiNNeSS]

I was led here by a fellow VFR rider friend who spotted this post. Thanks for bumping this thread from VFRD, SnowParang.

 

You may want to know that the bike is fully ready and road-worthy. I still have some engine tweaking left to do, but otherwise she runs fine without the PC2, for now.

 

I had to post that up on VFRD to pay homage to the Frankenviffer 'gurus' that show me how to go about doing the VTR SP1 front end mod. They are a goldmine of information on the 5th Gen.

 

Cheers!

 

A.

[GuiNNeSS]

Here's a peep at what the front end now looks like:

[James996]

Hi all,

 

As most of us know about vfrdiscussion forum,there seem to be alot cheap mods to enhance the performances,wirings mods,etc.

 

Did anyone actually tried it out?Reviews?

 

Let me start the ball rolling.

 

I had done:

 

1) Air box flapper valve disable.

 

Review:It seem to smoother out the low rpms riding,throttle not so snatchy.

 

2) Remove air box intake snorkel.

 

Review:Intake noise sounds good,like open pod filter.When riding,feel a flat spot at 4500rpm.Think its due to too much air.Will see if I can find a mesh wires to cover up the intake hole.

 

3) 330ohm resistors (5 cents each at Sim Lim) for O2 sensors.

 

Review:Haven ride the bike yet after this mod,will try to ride it on this weekend.

 

I will try the Blue connector ground and the monitor wire fix next.

Edited May 28, 2009 by sino74

[loufu]

4)Tips & Tricks To Help Your Charging System

 

#1 - I ran an additional 8 gauge ground from the battery neg to the connection on the frame (right side with the green wires, not at the brake valve)

#2 - I ran an additional 12 gauge ground from the new ground point to the regulator ground and commoned them (green wires on the reg plug)

#3 - I ran 2 additional 12 gauge wires from the Batt positive to the regulator charge output wires (red & red white)

credit to VFRD zam70

 

i manage to get my hand on the #3 mod.. it really does improves the charging voltage but not up to the specs yet.. mayb i shd get #1 n #2 done too.. scared tat the prob lies wif my altenator... haiz....

[vfrT]

Improving / Quickening the handling. The VFR is long and heavy and takes a little more effort than I like to initiate a lean or change in direction. To quicken the handling, I dropped the triple clamps and let the fork stick out about 7mm from the top of the triple clamp. This improved the handling tremendously and makes it easier to flick through traffic.At high speed say, above 220kmh (on the meter) - not advised on public road, it is very slightly less stable. It is easily reversible, free and takes only 15 mins.

 

I think this simple "mod" can make a big diff to those who perceives a vfr as heavy and slow as compared to a sport bike.

[James996]

credit to VFRD zam70

 

i manage to get my hand on the #3 mod.. it really does improves the charging voltage but not up to the specs yet.. mayb i shd get #1 n #2 done too.. scared tat the prob lies wif my altenator... haiz....

 

I did #1 to my bike already...the #2 and #3 haven yet....so far,so good.

[James996]

Improving / Quickening the handling. The VFR is long and heavy and takes a little more effort than I like to initiate a lean or change in direction. To quicken the handling, I dropped the triple clamps and let the fork stick out about 7mm from the top of the triple clamp. This improved the handling tremendously and makes it easier to flick through traffic.At high speed say, above 220kmh (on the meter) - not advised on public road, it is very slightly less stable. It is easily reversible, free and takes only 15 mins.

 

I think this simple "mod" can make a big diff to those who perceives a vfr as heavy and slow as compared to a sport bike.

 

Is it 7mm after the fork ring marking?I might want to try that.

[James996]

3) 330ohm resistors (5 cents each at Sim Lim) for O2 sensors.

 

Review:Managed to ride the bike over the long weekend...Tried to find as many traffic jams as possible(Its not really hard nowadays).The flat spot at 4500rpm is fine tune,high gears,low rev improves alot. Well worth my time is doing it.

[vfrT]

Is it 7mm after the fork ring marking?I might want to try that.

 

Using any reference point, just drop it by the required amount. Mine is 5th gen and does not have any markings on the tube unless you are refering to the stop ring above the handle bar pinch bolt, in which case you can use that as a reference also. You may want to experiment with your own settings as 7mm i good for me. Try starting with 5mm. Be careful not to drop too much in case your lower clamps hit the fender at hard braking.

[snowparang]

O2 sensors don't bother me (cos mine is a 5th gen? not sure) but I was plague with electrical problems.. Even right now.

 

Read: http://snowparang.blogdrive.com/archive/96.html

 

Did the ground wire mod but no noticeable difference. I highly recommending adding a voltmeter though to moniter your bike's electrical health.

 

On a side note, I have this weird problem which I think is wiring related. With the headlight on after some time, the right turn signal do not work. Instead, a buzzing sound is heard when I signal right and the high beam/right signal indicator lamp with light up faintly. Problem persist after I switch off the headlight. However, things return to normal after I shut the bike off. The main problem, however, is that this issue is intermittent and sometimes do not appear, which makes trouble shooting worse. Anyone has similiar experience?

[vfrT]

On a side note, I have this weird problem which I think is wiring related. With the headlight on after some time, the right turn signal do not work. Instead, a buzzing sound is heard when I signal right and the high beam/right signal indicator lamp with light up faintly. Problem persist after I switch off the headlight. However, things return to normal after I shut the bike off. The main problem, however, is that this issue is intermittent and sometimes do not appear, which makes trouble shooting worse. Anyone has similiar experience?

 

Let me try (Pls indemnify me;-): These are in order of tediousness, so try each at a time to see if it works before going to the next. Of course you can do them all if you like. Note the pics and diagnosis is based on a 5th gen (non-vtec)factory manual but I think they are similar.

 

The problems sounds like a short somewhere along the common circuit shared by the hi-beam indicator, turn signal relay, and headlight relay. These are connected by 4P connector (in the fairing) and through the left handle bar turn signal switch. So try

1. Firstly, spraying WD40 into the turn signal switch on the handle bar or better yet open it up and clean it out. If this dont work try ..

2. Open up the head fairing and clean out the 4P connector (see pic) and reconnect. If it dont work, ...

3. Test the turn signal relay to see if its working (see pic). If not replace the relay.

 

Good luck.

[loufu]

O2 sensors don't bother me (cos mine is a 5th gen? not sure) but I was plague with electrical problems.. Even right now.

 

Read: http://snowparang.blogdrive.com/archive/96.html

 

Did the ground wire mod but no noticeable difference. I highly recommending adding a voltmeter though to moniter your bike's electrical health.

 

On a side note, I have this weird problem which I think is wiring related. With the headlight on after some time, the right turn signal do not work. Instead, a buzzing sound is heard when I signal right and the high beam/right signal indicator lamp with light up faintly. Problem persist after I switch off the headlight. However, things return to normal after I shut the bike off. The main problem, however, is that this issue is intermittent and sometimes do not appear, which makes trouble shooting worse. Anyone has similiar experience?

 

i tot ur charging prob fixed after u changed ur altenator? read ur post on VFRD tat u cahnged ur altenator...

[snowparang]

Let me try (Pls indemnify me;-): These are in order of tediousness, so try each at a time to see if it works before going to the next. Of course you can do them all if you like. Note the pics and diagnosis is based on a 5th gen (non-vtec)factory manual but I think they are similar.

 

The problems sounds like a short somewhere along the common circuit shared by the hi-beam indicator, turn signal relay, and headlight relay. These are connected by 4P connector (in the fairing) and through the left handle bar turn signal switch. So try

1. Firstly, spraying WD40 into the turn signal switch on the handle bar or better yet open it up and clean it out. If this dont work try ..

2. Open up the head fairing and clean out the 4P connector (see pic) and reconnect. If it dont work, ...

3. Test the turn signal relay to see if its working (see pic). If not replace the relay.

 

Good luck.

That's what I guessed too. Still trying to find a day to open up the front cowl (it takes about 3 hrs of realistic time to open, troubleshoot, close up and clean up...sigh..).

 

Actually, I had already troubleshoot once. I've done the check on the headlight relays and connectors and they are good. As for the signal relay, can we assume it's good as well? Cos the signal works normally when I don't switch on the headlights. Anyway, I tried the 'shorting grey and black wire and turning the signal light on) and actually my fuse blow, so will be hesistant to try that again. You have a spare signal relay to lend?

 

So during my first troubleshoot (when the problem wasn't intermittent but consistent), I realise that if I bypass the ground wire on the right hand side headlight, everything is fine. I guessed that a short somewhere hidden in the harness caused this and thus bypass that ground wire permanently. But the problem return and it's intermittent now.

 

i tot ur charging prob fixed after u changed ur altenator? read ur post on VFRD tat u cahnged ur altenator...

Yes I changed the coil and the RR as well. It solved the charging problem but the problem I'm having now is different.

 

Also, I get melted connectors at the RR to coil side. The OEM connector melted in 1 day, which I replace with the connectors used for household lighting. That lasted longer but I've also replaced that one (when the voltmeter suddenly shows a drop in voltage). In both cases, the melting was quite severe. But at least the voltmeter saved me from getting stuck somewhere with a flat battery!

[loufu]

 

Yes I changed the coil and the RR as well. It solved the charging problem but the problem I'm having now is different.

 

Also, I get melted connectors at the RR to coil side. The OEM connector melted in 1 day, which I replace with the connectors used for household lighting. That lasted longer but I've also replaced that one (when the voltmeter suddenly shows a drop in voltage). In both cases, the melting was quite severe. But at least the voltmeter saved me from getting stuck somewhere with a flat battery!

 

icic.. when ur altenator burnt, it is totally no charging or the charging voltage not high enuff?? coz my prob now is idling can get 14V but then when riding only get ard 13.5V...

[vfrT]

That's what I guessed too. Still trying to find a day to open up the front cowl (it takes about 3 hrs of realistic time to open, troubleshoot, close up and clean up...sigh..).

 

Actually, I had already troubleshoot once. I've done the check on the headlight relays and connectors and they are good. As for the signal relay, can we assume it's good as well? Cos the signal works normally when I don't switch on the headlights. Anyway, I tried the 'shorting grey and black wire and turning the signal light on) and actually my fuse blow, so will be hesistant to try that again. You have a spare signal relay to lend?

 

So during my first troubleshoot (when the problem wasn't intermittent but consistent), I realise that if I bypass the ground wire on the right hand side headlight, everything is fine. I guessed that a short somewhere hidden in the harness caused this and thus bypass that ground wire permanently. But the problem return and it's intermittent now.

 

Yes I changed the coil and the RR as well. It solved the charging problem but the problem I'm having now is different.

 

Also, I get melted connectors at the RR to coil side. The OEM connector melted in 1 day, which I replace with the connectors used for household lighting. That lasted longer but I've also replaced that one (when the voltmeter suddenly shows a drop in voltage). In both cases, the melting was quite severe. But at least the voltmeter saved me from getting stuck somewhere with a flat battery!

 

Afraid I dont have spare signal relay.

 

Given the added symptoms you mentioned in the last para, it sounds like yr rectifier may be on the blink. The symptoms for this varies but has some similarities like meters, lights charging current going haywire. In my case, when I use the turn indicator, the tachometer needle flicks in rythm with the indicator, the engine dies, the tripmeter reset to zero, battery also flattens and wont crank the engine, can push-start. On examining the rectifier, I find the black dielectric packing on the rear of the rectifier has cracked. In your case, you might see some bubbling with signs of wiring telegraphing thru the soften dielectric since its still in early throes of demise.

There are some fellow riders here who keep spare ones for trips - if any of you hv, perhaps u can loan for test? I have a spare for my '99er which I bght used, which I am not confident is in good nick (it has the telegraphing wiring I mentioned above), which I understand will not fit the vTec directly, which you can try if you like.

[snowparang]

icic.. when ur altenator burnt, it is totally no charging or the charging voltage not high enuff?? coz my prob now is idling can get 14V but then when riding only get ard 13.5V...

When my alternator burnt, it is totally no charging but prior to it being burn, if I had installed a voltmeter then, I should be seeing some weird voltage numbers. AFAIK, the coil/RR won't break down in a split second, so there's usually some method of recovery. The point is to detect the onset of the problem.

 

My bike gives 14.2V when idling w/o headlights. With headlghts, it's actually 12.5V. On the move w/headlights it's 14-14.1 V. When fan turns on the voltage drops to 13.6V. So when I see any numbers that are different I quickly ride home and check the RR and wiring.

 

Afraid I dont have spare signal relay.

 

Given the added symptoms you mentioned in the last para, it sounds like yr rectifier may be on the blink. The symptoms for this varies but has some similarities like meters, lights charging current going haywire. In my case, when I use the turn indicator, the tachometer needle flicks in rythm with the indicator, the engine dies, the tripmeter reset to zero, battery also flattens and wont crank the engine, can push-start. On examining the rectifier, I find the black dielectric packing on the rear of the rectifier has cracked. In your case, you might see some bubbling with signs of wiring telegraphing thru the soften dielectric since its still in early throes of demise.

There are some fellow riders here who keep spare ones for trips - if any of you hv, perhaps u can loan for test? I have a spare for my '99er which I bght used, which I am not confident is in good nick (it has the telegraphing wiring I mentioned above), which I understand will not fit the vTec directly, which you can try if you like.

Didn't realise that a dmg RR can cause weird symptoms. I do have a spare RR (all VFR owners should have one...hehe...). But the voltmeter reading I'm getting seems perfectly normal. Anyway will do the check tomorrow.