[Archive] [Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2008

[mr suave]

My speedometer SUDDENLY died on me. Whats the problem and how much to fix it? Pls advise. Thanks

 

:giddy:

[Ah Pek]

continue...

7 Abnormal engine noise

Knocking or pinking

1) Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that will

dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston crown and

chamber is the easiest way to remove the buildup. Otherwise, the cylinder

head will have to be removed and decarbonised.

2) Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper fuel can cause detonation.

This causes the pistons to rattle, thus the knocking or pinking sound.

Drain the old fuel and always use the recommended grade fuel.

3) Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates that

the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow plug,

raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range plug.

4) Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to run hot and lead

to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause this imbalance.

 

 

Piston slap or rattling

1) Cylinder-to-piston clearance excessive. Caused by improper assembly.

Inspect and overhaul top-end parts.

2) Connecting rod bent. Caused by over-revving, trying to start a badly

flooded engine or from ingesting a foreign object into the combustion

chamber. Renew the damaged parts.

3) Piston pin or piston pin bore worn or seized from wear or lack of

lubrication. Renew damaged parts.

4) Piston ring(s) worn, broken or sticking. Overhaul the top-end.

5) Piston seizure damage. Usually from lack of lubrication or overheating.

Renew the pistons and bore the cylinders, as necessary.

6) Connecting rod upper or lower end clearance excessive. Caused by

excessive wear or lack of lubrication. Renew worn parts.

Valve noise

1) Incorrect valve clearances. Adjust the clearances.

2) Valve spring broken or weak. Check and renew weak valve springs.

3) Camshaft or cylinder head worn or damaged. Lack of lubrication at high

rpm is usually the cause of damage. Insufficient oil or failure to change the

oil at the recommended intervals are the chief causes. Since there are no

replaceable bearings in the head, the head itself will have to be renewed if

there is excessive wear or damage.

 

 

Other noise

1) Cylinder head gasket leaking.

2) Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection. Caused by improper fit

of pipe(s) or loose exhaust flange. All exhaust fasteners should be

tightened evenly and carefully. Failure to do this will lead to a leak.

3) Crankshaft runout excessive. Caused by a bent crankshaft (from over-

revving) or damage from an upper cylinder component failure.

4) Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten all engine mount bolts.

5) Crankshaft bearings worn.

6) Camshaft drive gear assembly defective. Renew.

...to be continured...

[way_ne]

ah pek when having ur real live show teck ghee talk?

skulli teck ghee sq full hse....

[Ah Pek]

Coming this 7th Ghost month...all riders from hades oso come ...really full house...can open at least 50 tables and with Kor_Tai liao

[way_ne]

Coming this 7th Ghost month...all riders from hades oso come ...really full house...can open at least 50 tables and with Kor_Tai liao

 

haha...i say real wan u tell mi ghost month...

long time no gathering liao mah...

[I_Ride_A_Bike]

Always

- use a Plug that is of proper heat range and reach(thread size, depth..); improper plug will lead to engine damage or poor performance

- proper torque to tighten plug

- clean area before removing Plug as dirt will enter cyclinder

 

To obtain an accurate reading from a new spark plug:

1. Accelerate at full throttle on a straight

2. Push the engine stop button and pull the clutch lever in to release the clutch

3. Coast to a stop

4. Remove the spark plug

 

Attached picture :

(1) Porcelain Insulator

(2) Center Electrode

(3) Side Electrode

 

The porcelain insulator (1) around the center electrode (2) should appear clean and colorless with a gray ring around the center electrode where it exits the porcelain. Metallic specks indicate lean jetting that is removing metal from the piston. Black sooty streaks on the porcelain indicate rich jetting.

 

Normal - Plug should appear WHITE (no color change) with light gray ring that depicts a Correct Mixture

Overheating - Extreme WHITE with aluminium specs indicate a Lean Mixture

Wet - Plug appears wet or sooty indicates that there's a Rich Mixture

 

In addition to improper jetting :

 

1) A lean condition can be caused by air leaks in the inlet tract or exhaust system, passing of too much air because of the use of the wrong air filter, use of a less-restrictive aftermarket exhaust system, or leaks in the air box.

2) A rich condition can be caused by a plugged or dirty air filter, use of a more-restrictive aftermarket exhaust system, a clogged catalytic system, or excessive oil on the air cleaner/filter. Excessive smoking may occur with this condition.

 

=]

[rayhunter]

Q: where can i find that protector which looked like sand paper for the pillion to step on so that it will not scratch the exhaust?

[Ah Pek]

:giddy:

 

May be you wanna have a look at your fuse box housing and look for the fuse that link the supply to your meter...likely its blown perhaps.

[Ah Pek]

Q: where can i find that protector which looked like sand paper for the pillion to step on so that it will not scratch the exhaust?

 

Its not a protector but you be using it as...LOL!

 

Anyway...its an "anti skip" matt. Sold in small rolls too..if you are staying in AMK..can go to the DIY shop at NTUC Hub (just outside NTUC). They have it.

[Advrider]

Q: where can i find that protector which looked like sand paper for the pillion to step on so that it will not scratch the exhaust?

 

Saw the new Revo the exhaust has a guard on the foot peg. Think should be able to fit to our bikes, plug and play.

[rayhunter]

Saw the new Revo the exhaust has a guard on the foot peg. Think should be able to fit to our bikes, plug and play.

 

ever brought that idea to sengkwang even with pic attached intend to custom made the same but too bad,after hearing all the negative comments,advises and the unbelievable price quoted from the boss..i dropped that idea..

[rayhunter]

Its not a protector but you be using it as...LOL!

 

Anyway...its an "anti skip" matt. Sold in small rolls too..if you are staying in AMK..can go to the DIY shop at NTUC Hub (just outside NTUC). They have it.

 

thanks for the tips...do u know if it is able to withstand the exhaust heat? peel off will it leave a melted mark on the exhaust?

[Ah Pek]

thanks for the tips...do u know if it is able to withstand the exhaust heat? peel off will it leave a melted mark on the exhaust?

 

I used it about 15 yrs ago....LOL! Tough stuff.. Before you stick the under surface to your exhaust...make sure the muffler surface is clean of oil and any oil residue. When clean...give it a code of wax before sticking it on. The adhesive is heavy duty and really bites..suppose too! It can take the heat anytime...no melted marks..may need adhesive remover to do it..I used benjine (liquid fuel for flint lighters) the last time.

[rayhunter]

I used it about 15 yrs ago....LOL! Tough stuff.. Before you stick the under surface to your exhaust...make sure the muffler surface is clean of oil and any oil residue. When clean...give it a code of wax before sticking it on. The adhesive is heavy duty and really bites..suppose too! It can take the heat anytime...no melted marks..may need adhesive remover to do it..I used benjine (liquid fuel for flint lighters) the last time.

 

:thumb: code of wax on it and it still able to stick soooo well..really power..i think i better leave the exhaust alone..got scratch mark still can polish off..but i feel that this ''little anti slip mat'' is like too permanent..

[I_Ride_A_Bike]

There are a few basic forces at work in any fork or shock that must be understood before you can make successful changes from the stock settings.

 

The first thing a tuner needs to understand is that for the most part, SPRINGS primarily just hold the bike up. They return the bike to a pre-set "height" or "sag" any time the suspension is compressed. Springs are NOT the POWER in a suspension system! Using normal springs or replacing the stock with stiffer ones only changes the "sag". The "sag" can be tailored to different rider weights by changing the spring either stiffer or softer, but really only affects the "ride-height" or "sag", nothing more!

 

The second thing is Hydraulics. This is really easy to understand as long as you remember that a fluid will NOT compress like a gas will, so a fluid is always going to be constant. Take for example a syringe with a needle on the end. The needle represents a "valve". The bigger the needle, the FASTER you can push the plunger, and the smaller the needle, the SLOWER you can push the plunger. Its all about the SPEED at which the plunger, or forks, can be pushed. The valving in your forks work the same way as the needle. It restricts the flow of the fluid. In a fork or shock that is externally adjustable, all your doing by turning adjusters, is increasing, or decreasing the TIME it takes to push a given volume of fluid through the valve. If you change to a thicker weight fluid, but leave the valve size as before, it will take LONGER to pass the same amount of fluid through the valve as before with a thinner weight fluid or oil. This works in both directions as in the "compression" and the "rebound" strokes. On most modern forks and shocks these "valves" are adjustable with the "clickers". (Ohlins, Bitubo? WP? HyperPro, Wilburs...) Remember that it's all about the SPEED at which the suspension compresses or re-bounds.

 

 

If the forks or shock COMPRESS too FAST, then they will "bottom out". If they compress too SLOW, then they wont use the full stroke, causing a rough ride, and a "push" in the front-end when your turning.

 

REBOUND is really misunderstood by a lot of people. Rebound controls the SPEED at which the forks or shock returns to its pre-set ride-height or "sag," after it compresses. If the forks rebound too FAST, then the bike will "push" in a turn. If the rear rebounds too FAST, then the rear of the bike will "kick-up" sometimes throwing the rider over the bars, or at least, smacking him in the bump. The object to setting rebound is to get the wheel back on the ground as soon as possible, WITHOUT adverse effects.

 

Experiment with your suspension and expect excellence. Just remember what does what and know what you're trying to fix before you start "throwing money" at it. (Although an Ohlins suspension can look darn good and solid, and you just 'die' w/o it =]) Almost all suspension problems can be fixed with very little money and some trial and error. Remember that "it's all about the SPEED at which things happen". If you think about it like that then you will be able to identify what needs to be fixed.

 

Good suspension really only has one job, it needs to give the rider the plushest(most comfortable) ride possible, over varying terrain, while allowing total control. Anything else is NOT acceptable!

 

I've left out point number 3 which is about "Air-Spring" -the amount of Air between the oil and the top cap/cover inside the fork/shock. This stiffness can be changed by lowering or raising oil levels within the fork. This consideration/portion is pretty complex so i've thought to leave it out for the time being.

[Advrider]

ever brought that idea to sengkwang even with pic attached intend to custom made the same but too bad,after hearing all the negative comments,advises and the unbelievable price quoted from the boss..i dropped that idea..

 

Forget about customisation just buy the original plug and play.

[rayhunter]

Forget about customisation just buy the original plug and play.

 

ever checked with boon siew but they dun have it yet..Will drop by FJT and check if they have it..or maybe any revo bros intend to sell? haa..but i think only for those who had changed to aftermarket exhaust then they do not need it..

[Advrider]

ever checked with boon siew but they dun have it yet..Will drop by FJT and check if they have it..or maybe any revo bros intend to sell? haa..but i think only for those who had changed to aftermarket exhaust then they do not need it..

 

Forget about getting any parts from BS. Get the part number from them and go down to FJT or Chong Aik.

 

Don't think you can get it from the Revo brothers or Sisters just yet, cos there's no exhaust homolagated yet.

[rayhunter]

Forget about getting any parts from BS. Get the part number from them and go down to FJT or Chong Aik.

 

yup..BS are for parts number reference only..hope i'll be able to get it soon.

[Advrider]

yup..BS are for parts number reference only..hope i'll be able to get it soon.

 

Good luck in your search.

[Ah Pek]

Woah!...interesting Bro!!!...now while you excuse me..got some fork thingy to do and make my ride more plushish!

[inspire85]

Anyone can teach me aga aga how to adjust the throttle freeplay? Mine a bit loose and feel like tightening it..

[Ah Pek]

Anyone can teach me aga aga how to adjust the throttle freeplay? Mine a bit loose and feel like tightening it..

 

Take off your tank..follow the "pull" throttle cable run to near the top of the carbs. There is a lock nut..just loosen it and turn the main pull throttle bolt stalk anti-clockwise..one little bit turns makes a lot of different.

 

Good luck.

[inspire85]

Take off your tank..follow the "pull" throttle cable run to near the top of the carbs. There is a lock nut..just loosen it and turn the main pull throttle bolt stalk anti-clockwise..one little bit turns makes a lot of different.

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks !! I have another question, my throttle feels a bit stiff also, where can i apply WD40 to makes it more smooth?

[Ah Pek]

Thanks !! I have another question, my throttle feels a bit stiff also, where can i apply WD40 to makes it more smooth?

 

Anywhere or part that comes in contact with each other and that moves..there is friction..use WD40 to remove any drid greasy stain or rust..than use Silicon spray..don't have silicon..use proper thin lubrication oil like "Singer"(for sewing machine. WD40 is not a true lubricant.