[Archive] [Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2008

[Ah Pek]

continue...

 

 

3 Poor running or no power at high speed.

 

Firing incorrect

Air filter restricted. Clean or renew filter.

 

Spark plugs fouled, defective or worn out.

 

Spark plug caps or HT wiring defective.

 

Spark plug caps not in good contact.

 

Incorrect spark plugs. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration.

 

Ignition control unit defective.

 

Ignition HT coils defective.

 

 

Fuel/air mixture incorrect

Main jet clogged. Dirt, water or other contaminants can clog the main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the in-line filter, the float chamber area, and the jets and carburettor orifices.

Main jet wrong size. Th9 standard jetting is for sea level atmospheric pressure and oxygen content.

Air bleed holes clogged. Remove and overhaul carburettors.

Air filter clogged, poorly sealed, or missing.

Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps, and renew defective parts.

Fuel level too high or too low. Check the float height.

 

Fuel tank breather hose obstructed.

 

Carburettor inlet manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or loose clamps. Renew the rubber inlet manifolds if they are split or perished.

 

 

Compression low

Spark plugs loose. Remove the plugs and inspect their threads. Reinstall and tighten securely.

Cylinder head not sufficienty tightened down. If the cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket and head

are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head nuts should be tightened to the proper torque in

the correct sequence.

Improper valve clearance. This means that the valve is not closing completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and adjust the valve clearances.

Cylinder and/or piston *vorn. Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A top-end overhaul Is necessary.

Piston rings worn, weak, broken, or sticking. Broken or sticking piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburation problem that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings. Top-end overhaul is necessary.

Piston ring-to-groove clearance excessive. This is caused by excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston renewal is necessary.

Cylinder head gasket damaged. If a head is allowed to become

loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and

combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the

head gasket may leak. Retorqulng the head is not always sufficient

to restore the seal, so gasket renewal is necessary.

Cylinder head warped. This is caused by overheating or improperly tightened head nuts. Machine shop resurfacing or head renewal is necessary.

Valve spring broken or weak. Caused by component failure or wear; the springs must be renewed.

Valve not seating properly. This is caused by a bent valve (from

over-revving or improper valve adjustment), burned valve or seat

(improper carburation) or an accumulation of carbon deposits on

the seat (from carburation or lubrication problems). The valves

must be cleaned and/or renewed and the seats serviced if possible.

Knocking or pinking

Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive

that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the

crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up.

Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and

decarbonised.

Incorrect or poor quality fuel. Old or improper grades of fuel can cause detonation. This causes the piston to rattle, thus the knocking or pinking sound. Drain old fuel and always use the recommended fuel grade.

Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled detonation indicates the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range plug.

Improper air/fuel mixture. This will cause the cylinders to run hot, which leads to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause this imbalance.

 

 

 

Miscellaneous causes

Throttle valve doesn't open fully. Adjust the throttle grip freeplay.

 

Clutch slipping. May be caused by loose or worn clutch components.

 

Timing not advancing.

 

Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one recommended in can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the engine.

 

Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary.

 

 

...to be continued

[ops-fd]

thumbs upzzzz

[Dkoh]

This is a good thread, excellent rate for u ah pek...

 

With this thread at least before going to the motordiam, can do some troubleshooting first... Or else if go straight there, the technician say until your bike can throw away liao, u LL also have to take it...

 

THUMBS UP!!!

[Ah Pek]

This is a good thread, excellent rate for u ah pek...

 

With this thread at least before going to the motordiam, can do some troubleshooting first... Or else if go straight there, the technician say until your bike can throw away liao, u LL also have to take it...

 

THUMBS UP!!!

 

 

"Or else if go straight there, the technician say until your bike can throw away liao, u LL also have to take it..."

LOL!...that's very true indeed lah that's why I tot this would serve our SS4 (Sotong Super 4) newer riders well. At least you guys can be constructively be defensive when a mech gets to rubbishly techkie!

Thanks for the vote of confidence and the others that voted too..I see stars now!

[BIKER1605199362]

:thumb:

 

Great Job ah pek ...... :cheer:

[Ah Pek]

IKER;4361415'] :thumb:

 

Great Job ah pek ...... :cheer:

 

 

..enjoy it with your

[loufu]

can some1 link the post together, i mean 1 after another at least... not seperated by those feedbacks... it would b easier to read... coz now like read abit then next post is thumbs up, upz for u & etc.... abit distracting.. ..

 

ah pek, mayb next time u reserved a few post then can edit in those infos later on... juz my 2cents sugesstion...

[Ah Pek]

can some1 link the post together, i mean 1 after another at least... not seperated by those feedbacks... it would b easier to read... coz now like read abit then next post is thumbs up, upz for u & etc.... abit distracting.. ..

 

ah pek, mayb next time u reserved a few post then can edit in those infos later on... juz my 2cents sugesstion...

 

 

LOL!...I knew this gonna happened but not much I can do leh. May be the mod can do some wonders here to line them out in order..errr...somehow.

 

In the meantime..will try your suggestion. Anyway..what best you can do is snipped the text from the post you need and paste it on your doc for reference need..that's while edition is doing.

[melvintay]

Hi guys, I'm a new rider of Spec 1. I got a few qns, pardon me if these are noob qns...

 

Q1. How do I know if my bike has hit reserve and how long more can I ride when this happens?

 

Q2. My side stand seems so low that the bike tilts a lot, more than the normal Super 4s I've seen, is there a way to adjust myself? If adjust it at bikeshop, how much estimated?

 

Q3. At N-gear and my clutch is fully realeased, I hear some noise, not sure if it's caused by the clucth plates, it's like some rubbing noise in the engine. Anyone knows what's the prob?

 

Q4. Just bought a 1-way alarm from the CMO, anyone know's how to fix or recommend any cheap place to fix?

 

Thanks in advace for any advice. quite new to CB400, appreciate any guidances.

[Ah Pek]

Hi guys, I'm a new rider of Spec 1. I got a few qns, pardon me if these are noob qns...

 

Q1. How do I know if my bike has hit reserve and how long more can I ride when this happens?

 

Q2. My side stand seems so low that the bike tilts a lot, more than the normal Super 4s I've seen, is there a way to adjust myself? If adjust it at bikeshop, how much estimated?

 

Q3. At N-gear and my clutch is fully realeased, I hear some noise, not sure if it's caused by the clucth plates, it's like some rubbing noise in the engine. Anyone knows what's the prob?

 

Q4. Just bought a 1-way alarm from the CMO, anyone know's how to fix or recommend any cheap place to fix?

 

Thanks in advace for any advice. quite new to CB400, appreciate any guidances.

 

 

What S4 is that anyway and how old? My answers are only genenic.

 

1. Your reserve tank carries about 3 litre. If your comsumption is about say 19km/litre...3x19= 57km. when you hit reserve..normally about 230km to 320km..your bike starts to jerk as if starving off from fuel feed...eventually engine will cease.

 

2. Like Jade on the open market...no fixed market value..you like it...you pay for what is demand. If you wanna DIY..take it off..one end clamp to a vice and the other end..use a solid metal hollow pipe to slot into the other end till the point you wanna bend off a little to straighten it.

 

3. Insufficient engine oil or low in vicosity...but likely clutch housing problem if its coming from gear box clutch side. If engine..may be..say may be..psiton ring loose liao.

 

4. Should have asked the ppl you bought from to do it or recommend you at least...again...any $$s!..you like you pay.

[melvintay]

What S4 is that anyway and how old? My answers are only genenic.

 

1. Your reserve tank carries about 3 litre. If your comsumption is about say 19km/litre...3x19= 57km. when you hit reserve..normally about 230km to 320km..your bike starts to jerk as if starving off from fuel feed...eventually engine will cease.

 

2. Like Jade on the open market...no fixed market value..you like it...you pay for what is demand. If you wanna DIY..take it off..one end clamp to a vice and the other end..use a solid metal hollow pipe to slot into the other end till the point you wanna bend off a little to straighten it.

 

3. Insufficient engine oil or low in vicosity...but likely clutch housing problem if its coming from gear box clutch side. If engine..may be..say may be..psiton ring loose liao.

 

4. Should have asked the ppl you bought from to do it or recommend you at least...again...any $$s!..you like you pay.

 

thanks for ur reply. my S4 is a FT plate Vtec1.

 

Vtec 1 uses an electronic fuel gauge. Is there a fuel knob like normal bikes to switch from main fuel tank to reserve? if not, what's the indication on the electronic meter when it has hit reserve?

[Ah Pek]

thanks for ur reply. my S4 is a FT plate Vtec1.

 

Vtec 1 uses an electronic fuel gauge. Is there a fuel knob like normal bikes to switch from main fuel tank to reserve? if not, what's the indication on the electronic meter when it has hit reserve?

 

Sorry..need those of similar S4 type to answer this..know they do not need a switch. Fuel gauge are the same as non-vtec..I think.

[NewUrbanMale_LSM]

Hi Super4 riders, i'm currently a NSR150 SP rider. I'm planning to upgrade to Super4 in 2 months time. But i've got a few questions to consult the people here. Spare me 5minutes? Here goes.........

 

 

 

 

 

1. How much is the machine price of a brand new Super4?

 

2. Which insurance company did you guys buy the insurance for your S4?

 

3. Which category of insurance is more suitable for a bike like S4? 3rd party? 2nd? 1st?

 

4. Full tank how many litres? Main tank how much? Reserve how much?

 

5. Average riding style, changing gear at 4000rpm, fully stock. 1 litre can go how many clicks?

 

6. What is the latest Spec?

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks all!

[Ah Pek]

continue...

 

 

4 Overheating

 

Engine overheats

 

1) Coolant level low. Check and add coolant.

 

2) Leak In cooling system. Check cooling system hoses and radiator for leaks

and other damage. Repair or renew parts as necessary.

 

3) Thermostat sticking open or closed. Check.

 

4) Faulty radiator cap. Remove the cap and have it pressure tested.

 

5) Coolant passages clogged. Drain and flush the entire system, then refill

with fresh coolant.

 

6) Water pump defective. Remove the pump and check the components.

 

7) Clogged radiator fins. Clean them by blowing compressed air through the

fins from the backside.

 

8) Cooling fan or fan switch faulty.

 

 

Firing incorrect

 

1) Spark plugs fouled, defective or worn out.

 

2) Incorrect spark plugs.

 

3) Ignition control unit defective.

 

4) Faulty ignition HT coils.

 

 

Fuel/air mixture incorrect

 

1) Main jet clogged. Dirt, water and other contaminants can clog the main

jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the fuel pump in-line filter, the float chamber

area and the jets and carburettor orifices.

 

2) Main jet wrong size. The standard jetting is for sea level atmospheric

pressure and oxygen content.

 

3) Air filter clogged, poorly sealed or missing.

 

4) Air filter housing poorly sealed. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and

renew or repair.

 

5) Fuel level too low.

 

6) Fuel tank breather hose obstructed.

 

7) Carburettor inlet manifolds loose. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or loose

clamps. Renew the rubber inlet manifold joints if split or perished.

 

...to be continued

[Ah Pek]

1. How much is the machine price of a brand new Super4?

 

Which model? Revo is approx $14K...Spec 3 is 13K.

 

2. Which insurance company did you guys buy the insurance for your S4?

 

Depend on you..NTUC sue not to take in but now yes..and Mitshu (sp?)

 

3. Which category of insurance is more suitable for a bike like S4? 3rd party? 2nd? 1st?

 

1st party Comprehensive recommended for new bike unless you gots $s...buy cash on bike and pay cheap cheap for 3rd party..but kenna stolen become Lan_Lan!...and if accident your fault..have to pay your own damages until arsehole Koyak! Go figure mannn!

 

4. Full tank how many litres? Main tank how much? Reserve how much?

 

18 litres full tank...main tank 15litre...reserve?...do your maths.

5. Average riding style, changing gear at 4000rpm, fully stock. 1 litre can go how many clicks?

 

No fix rule..ride like that oso no use..such the forum...toms of answers as to why. All I can say here is ride the way you find most comfortable with and whatever..and be adopt defensive riding if you need to speed occassionaly.

 

6. What is the latest Spec?

 

No more call "Spec"..its "REVO" with ECU.

[Marcheline]

Wah Ah Pek, it wont be surprising if you are able to strip the S4 down to the last component and put it back together again without the manual!

 

Great trouble-shooting tips from a very helpful S4 lao jiao!

[Ah Pek]

Wah Ah Pek, it wont be surprising if you are able to strip the S4 down to the last component and put it back together again without the manual!

 

Great trouble-shooting tips from a very helpful S4 lao jiao!

 

 

LOL!...no lah. There are three types of bike enthusiast...

 

1) that reads a lot and are knowledgeable theorist - idealist

 

2) that has all the tools and hands-on exprience - mechanic

 

3) and a bit of both 1 & 2 - adviser

 

Me?...a typist who like to type what you all like to know about your bike and problems that comes what may

 

Enjoy ur read for knowledge of bike trouble-shoot-ing!

[wubefrub]

wah like this, no need to go motodiam already in the future. any problem, i bring my bike to teckghee find you.

 

thanks pek!

 

btw, i think am the 4th kind of bike enthusiast:

 

that reads and reads but still dun understand - lost

[Ah Pek]

....continue from No.4 "Overheating"

Compression too high

Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. Use of a fuel additive that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston crown and chamber Is the easiest way to remove the buildup. Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and decarbonised.

 

Improperly machined head surface or installation of incorrect gasket during engine assembly.

Engine load excessive

1) Clutch slipping. Can be caused by damaged, loose or worn clutch

components. Refer to Chapter 2 for overhaul procedures.

2) Engine oil level too high. The addition of too much oil will cause

pressurisation of the crankcase and inefficient engine operation. Check

Specifications and drain to proper level.

3) Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than the one

recommended can damage the oil pump or lubrication system as well as

cause drag on the engine.

4) Brakes dragging. Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake

piston seals, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary.

Lubrication inadequate

1) Engine oil level too low. Friction caused by intermittent lack of lubrication

or from oil that is overworked can cause overheating. The oil provides a

definite cooling function in the engine. Check the oil level frequently

whenever you can on pre-ride.

2) Poor quality engine oil or incorrect viscosity or type. Oil is rated not only

according to viscosity but also according to type. Some oils are not rated

high enough for use in this engine. Refer to Chapter 1 Specifications and

change to the correct of.

Miscellaneous causes

Modification to exhaust system. Most aftermarket exhaust systems cause the engine to run leaner, which make them run hotter. When installing an accessory exhaust system, always rejet the carburettors.

To be continued...

[Ah Pek]

5) Clutch problems

 

 

Clutch slipping

 

1) Insufficient clutch cable freeplay. Check and adjust.

 

2) Friction plates worn or warped. Overhaul the clutch assembly.

 

3) Plain plates warped.

 

4) Clutch springs broken or weak. Old or heat-damaged (from slipping clutch)

springs should be renewed.

 

5) Clutch release mechanism defective. Renew any defective parts.

 

6) Clutch centre or housing unevenly worn. This causes improper engagement

of the plates. Renew the damaged or worn parts.

 

 

Clutch not disengaging completely

 

1) Excessive clutch cable freeplay. Check and adjust.

 

2) Clutch plates warped or damaged. This will cause clutch

drag, which in turn will cause the machine to creep.

Overhaul the clutch assembly.

 

3) Clutch spring tension uneven. Usually caused by a sagged

or broken spring. Check and renew the springs as a set.

 

4) Engine oil deteriorated. Old, thin, worn out oil will not

provide proper lubrication for the plates, causing the clutch

to drag. Renew the oil and filter.

 

5) Engine oil viscosity too high. Using a heavier oil than

recommended can cause the plates to stick

together, putting a drag on the engine. Change to the

correct weight oil.

 

6) Clutch housing bush seized on mainshaft. Lack of

lubrication, severe wear or damage can cause the guide to

seize on the shaft. Overhaul of the clutch, and perhaps

transmission, may be necessary to repair the damage.

 

7) Clutch release mechanism defective. Overhaul the clutch

cover components.

 

8) Loose clutch centre nut. Causes housing and centre

misalignment putting a drag on the engine. Engagement

adjustment continually varies. Overhaul the clutch

assembly.

 

..to be continued

[I_Ride_A_Bike]

wah like this, no need to go motodiam already in the future. any problem, i bring my bike to teckghee find you.

 

thanks pek!

 

btw, i think am the 4th kind of bike enthusiast:

 

that reads and reads but still dun understand - lost

 

haha..

 

ah pek is i guess the 1st kind of bike enthusiast..

-type type answer answer!!

 

way2go la wills... keep an open view man..

[Hondaman]

Good Info. Keep it up ah pek!

[FrdAuZ]

can PM me how much to do replace fork seal all..cos mines leaking. only one side is leaking

[NewUrbanMale_LSM]

Is there any offical Honda website to see the specifications of the bike?

[smiley73]

upz the rate ....