[Archive] [Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2008

[PaLmEr]

Its not a protector but you be using it as...LOL!

 

Anyway...its an "anti skip" matt. Sold in small rolls too..if you are staying in AMK..can go to the DIY shop at NTUC Hub (just outside NTUC). They have it.

 

those are usually not heat resistant.

[PaLmEr]

den dont buy lor..

buy 1st hand.. zero mileage.. hehehe

ppl like me stay west but work changi even worst about 63k n not even 2 years..

muz travel to jb freq sumore pump petrol..

bring sumone experienced to recky wif u lah

 

even brand new bikes are not zero milage. 50k is not that high.

[4DToToBig Sweep]

Thanks bro !

 

But 52,000 seemed really alot for a 2year old ++ bike

 

Take your time Bro... Dont rush things... maybe theres better ones around?

If cant find any, then i think this bike is worth the buy :)

 

:deal:

[I_Ride_A_Bike]

A picture of the circuit of Braking system(1) and radial pump design vs conventional brake pump(2).. I've two parts to share. One is the use of normal master pump against radial master cylindrical pumps, the other being the effect of master cylinder piston size (like brembo offering something like 19x20) on the performance of the braking system.

 

Q: Any difference between a radial designed master-cylinder brake pump against that of the conventional ones that we have on our bike?

 

(Note: S4 is using the right pump in the attached picture. Brembo or other aftermarket brake pumps are usually designed similiar to the left pump picture.)

 

A: (I quote from Paul Dean in his write-up in CycleWorld Nov'07 with some rephrasing and add ons...)

Having seen several different claimed benefits of radial-pump master-cylinder such as increased leverage or the ability to have larger piston diameter, these qualities could have easily been built onto conventional designs.

But really, the only significant advantage of the radial type is their greater resistance to Flexing.

 

When you squeeze the lever on a conventional master cylinder(the right pump in attached picture), the forced applied with your hand is inward and towards the handlebar; the piston, however, is oriented parallel to the handlebar. Thus, the lever has to turn your squeezing force about 90 degrees to the left.

 

This causes the entire master-cylinder assembly to flex, since it is mounted to the handlebar only on a relatively narrow perch (a bar or peg on which something is hung). In fact, if you wanted to design a mechanism intended to flex such a mount as easily as possible, it would be hard to outdo a conventional master-cylinder arrangement.

 

A radial-pump design, however, eliminates practically all of that flex. The force you apply to the lever with your hand still is inward, obviously, but so is the force applied to the master-cylinder piston, which is perpendicular to the handlebar rather than parallel to it.

In fact, the piston is 'trapped' between the lever and the bar, with all of the forces acting in the same direction. Consequently, none or very little of your squeezing force is lost to the flexing of the master-cylinder mount, giving the brakes a more positive, solid feel.

(Unquote)

 

Next question, if i change to an aftermarket radial designed master-cylinder brake pump, will it definitely help in braking and the overrall increase performance in my bike's braking system?

 

One will have to contemplate on balancing a bigger piston size(S4 is using 16mm if i'm not wrong) resulting in a lessened pressure throughout the brake system but on the other hand will pump or move more fluid for any given stroke of the brake lever. Till next time... Principles of Hydraulics.

[joajas]

If the maintenance of the bike is tip top, and all parts are serviced and changed according to manufacturer guidelines or degree of wear, then total mileage is no longer an issue.

 

If a 2 year bike has only 10000km clocked, but that no maintenance was done at all, it will be worse that one that has been maintained properly.

 

Just me 2c.

[PaLmEr]

If the maintenance of the bike is tip top, and all parts are serviced and changed according to manufacturer guidelines or degree of wear, then total mileage is no longer an issue.

 

If a 2 year bike has only 10000km clocked, but that no maintenance was done at all, it will be worse that one that has been maintained properly.

 

Just me 2c.

 

agreed. seen some S4s with >100k km in great condition.

[Energizer]

Hi everyone,

 

I was wondering if the Spec 3 Signal cover (white-original) can be use to replace for Spec 1 Signal cover (orange-original) with out having to change the Black holder... Please advise.

 

Thanks,

Ash

 

size are different and i just brought a whole spec3 signal light frm LAB.... it cost $60....

[Energizer]

Hi everyone,

 

I was wondering if the Spec 3 Signal cover (white-original) can be use to replace for Spec 1 Signal cover (orange-original) with out having to change the Black holder... Please advise.

 

Thanks,

Ash

 

size are difference and i just brought a whole spec 3 signal light, front n behind frm LAB.... it cost $60

[Advrider]

There are a few basic forces at work in any fork or shock that must be understood before you can make successful changes from the stock settings.

 

The first thing a tuner needs to understand is that for the most part, SPRINGS primarily just hold the bike up. They return the bike to a pre-set "height" or "sag" any time the suspension is compressed. Springs are NOT the POWER in a suspension system! Using normal springs or replacing the stock with stiffer ones only changes the "sag". The "sag" can be tailored to different rider weights by changing the spring either stiffer or softer, but really only affects the "ride-height" or "sag", nothing more!

 

The second thing is Hydraulics. This is really easy to understand as long as you remember that a fluid will NOT compress like a gas will, so a fluid is always going to be constant. Take for example a syringe with a needle on the end. The needle represents a "valve". The bigger the needle, the FASTER you can push the plunger, and the smaller the needle, the SLOWER you can push the plunger. Its all about the SPEED at which the plunger, or forks, can be pushed. The valving in your forks work the same way as the needle. It restricts the flow of the fluid. In a fork or shock that is externally adjustable, all your doing by turning adjusters, is increasing, or decreasing the TIME it takes to push a given volume of fluid through the valve. If you change to a thicker weight fluid, but leave the valve size as before, it will take LONGER to pass the same amount of fluid through the valve as before with a thinner weight fluid or oil. This works in both directions as in the "compression" and the "rebound" strokes. On most modern forks and shocks these "valves" are adjustable with the "clickers". (Ohlins, Bitubo? WP? HyperPro, Wilburs...) Remember that it's all about the SPEED at which the suspension compresses or re-bounds.

 

 

If the forks or shock COMPRESS too FAST, then they will "bottom out". If they compress too SLOW, then they wont use the full stroke, causing a rough ride, and a "push" in the front-end when your turning.

 

REBOUND is really misunderstood by a lot of people. Rebound controls the SPEED at which the forks or shock returns to its pre-set ride-height or "sag," after it compresses. If the forks rebound too FAST, then the bike will "push" in a turn. If the rear rebounds too FAST, then the rear of the bike will "kick-up" sometimes throwing the rider over the bars, or at least, smacking him in the bump. The object to setting rebound is to get the wheel back on the ground as soon as possible, WITHOUT adverse effects.

 

Experiment with your suspension and expect excellence. Just remember what does what and know what you're trying to fix before you start "throwing money" at it. (Although an Ohlins suspension can look darn good and solid, and you just 'die' w/o it =]) Almost all suspension problems can be fixed with very little money and some trial and error. Remember that "it's all about the SPEED at which things happen". If you think about it like that then you will be able to identify what needs to be fixed.

 

Good suspension really only has one job, it needs to give the rider the plushest(most comfortable) ride possible, over varying terrain, while allowing total control. Anything else is NOT acceptable!

 

I've left out point number 3 which is about "Air-Spring" -the amount of Air between the oil and the top cap/cover inside the fork/shock. This stiffness can be changed by lowering or raising oil levels within the fork. This consideration/portion is pretty complex so i've thought to leave it out for the time being.

 

 

Bro this is very cheem. Don't really understand what they say. Is it possible to summarise.

[Celtic]

Are there other meters that has fuel indication other then stock meter?which bike shop has?

[FrdAuZ]

I saw somewhere in this forum about a metal cover that cover the metal handle for the pillion on the back..u noe when u remove the handle theres 2 screw..i want to cover that screw..u noe what i mean? where got sell n how much?

[SMR]

I saw somewhere in this forum about a metal cover that cover the metal handle for the pillion on the back..u noe when u remove the handle theres 2 screw..i want to cover that screw..u noe what i mean? where got sell n how much?

 

Are you riding Spec3? I think you meant this...

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3260364&postcount=29

[FrdAuZ]

Are you riding Spec3? I think you meant this...

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3260364&postcount=29

 

 

 

YUP2..thanks bro... u think can spray the metal plate to same color of my bike?

[I_Ride_A_Bike]

Bro this is very cheem. Don't really understand what they say. Is it possible to summarise.

 

never mastered the art of doing summary since sec sch..

basically its a brief explanation of how rear shock works. gas, oil, piston, spring; the write up tried to put these pieces together.

 

ever hear of compression damping and rebound damping? its all related and would give the rider more awareness on what capability his suspension can do or is doing..

 

just did a 380km travel in 1day at very uneven roads at m'sia. my rear shocks really gave me a 'plush' ride.

[MrQuan]

which is the best place to change clutch plate .. n hw much is it ..

[biting_point]

A picture of the circuit of Braking system(1) and radial pump design vs conventional brake pump(2).. I've two parts to share. One is the use of normal master pump against radial master cylindrical pumps, the other being the effect of master cylinder piston size (like brembo offering something like 19x20) on the performance of the braking system.

 

Q: Any difference between a radial designed master-cylinder brake pump against that of the conventional ones that we have on our bike?

 

(Note: S4 is using the right pump in the attached picture. Brembo or other aftermarket brake pumps are usually designed similiar to the left pump picture.)

 

A: (I quote from Paul Dean in his write-up in CycleWorld Nov'07 with some rephrasing and add ons...)

Having seen several different claimed benefits of radial-pump master-cylinder such as increased leverage or the ability to have larger piston diameter, these qualities could have easily been built onto conventional designs.

But really, the only significant advantage of the radial type is their greater resistance to Flexing.

 

When you squeeze the lever on a conventional master cylinder(the right pump in attached picture), the forced applied with your hand is inward and towards the handlebar; the piston, however, is oriented parallel to the handlebar. Thus, the lever has to turn your squeezing force about 90 degrees to the left.

 

This causes the entire master-cylinder assembly to flex, since it is mounted to the handlebar only on a relatively narrow perch (a bar or peg on which something is hung). In fact, if you wanted to design a mechanism intended to flex such a mount as easily as possible, it would be hard to outdo a conventional master-cylinder arrangement.

 

A radial-pump design, however, eliminates practically all of that flex. The force you apply to the lever with your hand still is inward, obviously, but so is the force applied to the master-cylinder piston, which is perpendicular to the handlebar rather than parallel to it.

In fact, the piston is 'trapped' between the lever and the bar, with all of the forces acting in the same direction. Consequently, none or very little of your squeezing force is lost to the flexing of the master-cylinder mount, giving the brakes a more positive, solid feel.

(Unquote)

 

Next question, if i change to an aftermarket radial designed master-cylinder brake pump, will it definitely help in braking and the overrall increase performance in my bike's braking system?

 

One will have to contemplate on balancing a bigger piston size(S4 is using 16mm if i'm not wrong) resulting in a lessened pressure throughout the brake system but on the other hand will pump or move more fluid for any given stroke of the brake lever. Till next time... Principles of Hydraulics.

 

Most CL2B bikes are 8 or 10mm.

 

Most CL2A bikes are 12mm.

 

Most CL2 bikes are 16mm. maybe the italians and euros comes with 18mm/19mm..

 

i started using OEM 12mm, then 16mm, then 19mm.. did not feel much diff btw 12 and 16.. but 19mm is totally different..

[teokw]

Hi Bros

My left fork is leaking..may I know how much to repair ah?

[Ah Pek]

Hi Bros

My left fork is leaking..may I know how much to repair ah?

 

Normally from $90 to $150..depend on fork oil type use and workmanship quality. The cost includes labour for washing and cleaning, replace fork oil and a pair of seals..if the bushing is rusted or damage..have to replace..xtra $$s.

[teokw]

Normally from $90 to $150..depend on fork oil type use and workmanship quality. The cost includes labour for washing and cleaning, replace fork oil and a pair of seals..if the bushing is rusted or damage..have to replace..xtra $$s.

 

Hi Ah Pek, I heard someone said before that if one side spoiled, have to do both sides in order to be "balanced"..... the "level?" must be same like 50/50....not 20/80 or 40/60....hmmnn....err...u understand me?

[PaLmEr]

Hi Ah Pek, I heard someone said before that if one side spoiled, have to do both sides in order to be "balanced"..... the "level?" must be same like 50/50....not 20/80 or 40/60....hmmnn....err...u understand me?

 

that cost includes servicing for both sides.

[Ah Pek]

Hi Ah Pek, I heard someone said before that if one side spoiled, have to do both sides in order to be "balanced"..... the "level?" must be same like 50/50....not 20/80 or 40/60....hmmnn....err...u understand me?

 

The word "balance" is right but not the way you define it here as a whole statement. Take not much thinking to have the oil be changed on both side..otherwise..vicosity is not the same. As for the seal..it need to be changed one side and need not too the other side..but if the oil has to be drained..the working seal has to be taken out..thus puting it back is not as effective as a new one. Don't get caught in a "peny wise pound foolish" situation too.

[rxgn]

like to check something..

 

today while riding, i felt that is very difficult to change gear, be it kick up or down, esp at gear one to gear two..

 

example: at traffic light, once green you kick to gear one, throttle on, then when you try to kick to '2' it will go to N, if kick up or down, it will have a loud 'thug' sound

 

other gears also a bit hard, not as smooth as before.. '1' to '2' more serious..

 

at first i thought is engine oil, but after changing, it's still the same..

 

mech said might be clutch plate gone case..

 

fellow forumers, other than engine oil and clutch plate, what might be else?

[mr suave]

I have my chain tighten and since, there is always a screeching sound when I'm moving? What could possibly be the problem(s)?

[SMR]

like to check something..

 

today while riding, i felt that is very difficult to change gear, be it kick up or down, esp at gear one to gear two..

 

example: at traffic light, once green you kick to gear one, throttle on, then when you try to kick to '2' it will go to N, if kick up or down, it will have a loud 'thug' sound

 

other gears also a bit hard, not as smooth as before.. '1' to '2' more serious..

 

at first i thought is engine oil, but after changing, it's still the same..

 

mech said might be clutch plate gone case..

 

fellow forumers, other than engine oil and clutch plate, what might be else?

 

 

When was the last time you lub your chain?

[kasogi]

how many litres the volume of oil fo rS4 year 1997 ?? with oil filter change ?? without change ?