odometer problem

[reddelta]

my rpm needle wave to me(go up and down) after 10 minutes ride.

any had encourter this before?

 

when start the engine everything normal, i noticed that it happen when machine are hot.

 

thaks!

[Aalex82]

my rpm needle wave to me(go up and down) after 10 minutes ride.

any had encourter this before?

 

when start the engine everything normal, i noticed that it happen when machine are hot.

 

thaks!

 

maybe the spring is weak in the meter..

therefore after sometime of usage, the spring loose its elastic, and wave around..

or check yr rpm cable if there is any..

[newcomer]

maybe the rpm cable just needs some oiling.

[Raptor]

It really be a help if you could tell us what bike are you riding, is your instrument cluster a dial gage type or digital display?

 

Odometer: Some call it the trip meter. The one you can reset to zero after you refuel so that you know how far you have travelled on that tank of gas. Driven by the speedometer drive from the front wheel.

 

Speedometer: Shows the speed of the vehicle in KPH. Also driven by the same speedometer drive from the front wheel. Sometimes in analog display but most of the modern bikes the display is digital.

 

Tachometer: Shows the engine revolutions per minute (RPM) in increments of 100 RPM. Red portion of the dial indicates that the engine is operating in a mechanically detrimental zone.

 

Always displayed in analog as digital readouts would be too fast changing for the human eye to decipher.

 

Driven by electrical output from a tachogenerator or magnet generator at the engine, tapped from either the camshaft, crankshaft or sometimes from the engine sprocket drive on the newer bikes or in the case of the older bikes.. mechanically driven via a flexible conduit by the engine.

 

As for the analog tachometer with the cable drive... the cable when connected to the meter is actually driving a magnet. As the engine rpms go up the magnet spins faster and 'drives' the indicating needle against its spring to give you the reading.

 

When the engine is turned off.. the spring will drive the needle to rest at the zero mark.

 

In order to figure out why something is not working properly... you need to understand its principles of operations in the first place and the components inside that make it work.

 

Hope this bit of info will help in your troubleshooting. Good luck.

[NL27]

It really be a help if you could tell us what bike are you riding, is your instrument cluster a dial gage type or digital display?

 

Odometer: Some call it the trip meter. The one you can reset to zero after you refuel so that you know how far you have travelled on that tank of gas. Driven by the speedometer drive from the front wheel.

 

Speedometer: Shows the speed of the vehicle in KPH. Also driven by the same speedometer drive from the front wheel. Sometimes in analog display but most of the modern bikes the display is digital.

 

Tachometer: Shows the engine revolutions per minute (RPM) in increments of 100 RPM. Red portion of the dial indicates that the engine is operating in a mechanically detrimental zone.

 

Always displayed in analog as digital readouts would be too fast changing for the human eye to decipher.

 

Driven by electrical output from a tachogenerator or magnet generator at the engine, tapped from either the camshaft, crankshaft or sometimes from the engine sprocket drive on the newer bikes or in the case of the older bikes.. mechanically driven via a flexible conduit by the engine.

 

As for the analog tachometer with the cable drive... the cable when connected to the meter is actually driving a magnet. As the engine rpms go up the magnet spins faster and 'drives' the indicating needle against its spring to give you the reading.

 

When the engine is turned off.. the spring will drive the needle to rest at the zero mark.

 

In order to figure out why something is not working properly... you need to understand its principles of operations in the first place and the components inside that make it work.

 

Hope this bit of info will help in your troubleshooting. Good luck.

 

real detailed info, thanks. i too learn another new thing for bikes

[reddelta]

Really appreciated all yr respond, Thanks guys!

 

my bike are old suzuki-gn125, about 5 years..

so is the tachometer giving me problem, thks again for correction.

 

can i detach the cable from meter to check?

Paiseh..although rode for many years, still not very sure the internal parts

of bike.

 

Thanks again!

[Raptor]

Really appreciated all yr respond, Thanks guys!

 

my bike are old suzuki-gn125, about 5 years..

so is the tachometer giving me problem, thks again for correction.

 

can i detach the cable from meter to check?

Paiseh..although rode for many years, still not very sure the internal parts

of bike.

 

Thanks again!

 

Its probably the cable binding intermittently due to the lack of lubrication or the teleflex cable could be broken and is intermittently catching to give you a fluctuating rpm reading.

 

Changing to a new tachometer cable might probably solve your problem.

[crazydj]

Sorry to dig up and ancient thread but i have the same problem.

 

My tachometer needle goes hay wire on a very hot sunny day, will jump a few RPM when i turn on my bike or switch on my lights.

 

During normal operation, the needle cannot go above 6K RPM no matter what. Doing 110km/h will only make it reach 5.5K RPM where in the past it would reach to about 8k. The needle will jump higher when i turn on my bike electrics with the headlight on but it will still jump a little if i just turn on the key.

 

I removed my tachometer unit (because it is loose) from the main meter housing (the one which holds the speedometer, odometer, fuel gauge and other lights) and there is no RPM cable attached to it. Just a bunch of wires, i think about 3 wires. The housing for the tachometer has melted a little as the light bulb has melted part of it, exposing a little of the components inside.

 

I went to my mech and he said that since i was not feeling any performance difference in my bike, it must be the tachometer spoil. He say replace the whole meter unit(speedo, tacho, etc) would cost $120. Is there a way just to fix tachometer?

 

I'm riding an FBA YBR125 by the way and i need help regarding this.

[crazydj]

Bumpity-Bump!

[crazydj]

Bumpity-bump!

[crazydj]

Anyone has any ideas?

[xXxRatedxXx]

Riff.... post pictures..lots of them. Lets have a look at it.

[areal]

er..go ask other shops for a 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th opinion lor..otherwise live with it?

anyway hope chris can help u with ur ongoing prob.

[crazydj]

Riff.... post pictures..lots of them. Lets have a look at it.

 

Bro, i thought my explanation was very clear already man.

 

1) When key is turned to "ON" position:-

-RPM needle jumps to 2.5k-3K RPM, then jumps back to 0K RPM.

-RPM needle jumps higher to 4k-5K RPM when headlights are turned on, then jumps back to 0K RPM.

 

2) When throttle is opened wide without any load on the engine:-

-RPM needle cannot go more than 6K RPM, even though the engine sounds super loud.

 

3) When at 80km/h or more:-

-RPM needle is stuck between 5.5K-6K RPM.

 

4) On a hot day, after hard riding or riding for a long time:-

-RPM needle may get "stuck" at a certain RPM, 6K, 7K or 8K, even after slowing down and throttle closed fully.

-Headlights have to be switched off, then needle goes back to idling speed. -It may come back to the "certain" RPMs when headlight i switched back on when bike is idle.

 

5) Under normal riding conditions:-

-RPM needle cannot go over 6K even though the engine revolutions is way past that.

 

A couple of mechs told me to replace the WHOLE METER UNIT, but i think it is unnecessary as i suspect it may be:-

1) A short in the wiring.

2) The tachometer needle spring needs to be replaced

3) The tachometer needle needs some oiling.

4) The whole tachometer is screwed and needs to be replaced.

 

If you guys have any ideas or can recommend me a good mech that can repair electrical components, please do!

 

If not, Chris, take me to the junkyard!

[xXxRatedxXx]

A couple of mechs told me to replace the WHOLE METER UNIT, but i think it is unnecessary as i suspect it may be:-

1) A short in the wiring.

2) The tachometer needle spring needs to be replaced

3) The tachometer needle needs some oiling.

4) The whole tachometer is screwed and needs to be replaced.

 

If you guys have any ideas or can recommend me a good mech that can repair electrical components, please do!

 

If not, Chris, take me to the junkyard!

 

That's why la.... i want to see if the circuit board component is already screwed and burnt out... cos you said one place melted??? It probably shorted out.... If inside jialat already then no hope..... That's why i want to see the pictures to judge.

 

If its a short.... and it can be rectified? Why not take out the whole thing....rewire and re solder again? Save you time and money....

 

But if i'm you heck care la!! Speedo don't spoil can already.

 

Seeing is believing my brother....

[crazydj]

That's why la.... i want to see if the circuit board component is already screwed and burnt out... cos you said one place melted??? It probably shorted out.... If inside jialat already then no hope..... That's why i want to see the pictures to judge.

 

If its a short.... and it can be rectified? Why not take out the whole thing....rewire and re solder again? Save you time and money....

 

But if i'm you heck care la!! Speedo don't spoil can already.

 

Seeing is believing my brother....

 

Haha. Its actually the bulb that touched the tachometer housing, melting a hole in it. I just covered it up with electrical tape and put the tachometer unit back into its socket.

 

But damn ma fan ah, if i need to see the whole thing, i have to remove my head fairing to remove the who leter unit. One day if free ah then i go and open it up. I know damn leceh. My mech got open it before need to take some time one.

 

Anyway Chris, where is this junkyard which you keep talking about?

[xXxRatedxXx]

Haha. Its actually the bulb that touched the tachometer housing, melting a hole in it. I just covered it up with electrical tape and put the tachometer unit back into its socket.

 

But damn ma fan ah, if i need to see the whole thing, i have to remove my head fairing to remove the who leter unit. One day if free ah then i go and open it up. I know damn leceh. My mech got open it before need to take some time one.

 

Anyway Chris, where is this junkyard which you keep talking about?

 

Take out the whole head la... change to RxZ head!! Hhahaha...

 

http://www.thebikeyard.com

[crazydj]

Take out the whole head la... change to RxZ head!! Hhahaha...

 

http://www.thebikeyard.com

 

Link is dead bro.

[Ash36]

Hi guys, i have with me an Rxk 135 meter assy and im trying to restore it back. . Anyone knows where to find the replacement speedometer, tachometer and fuel face here in singapore? And does anyone have any leads on fuel gauge pointer repair? Cos its broken.. thx guys..

[pufferfis]

Hi guys, i have with me an Rxk 135 meter assy and im trying to restore it back. . Anyone knows where to find the replacement speedometer, tachometer and fuel face here in singapore? And does anyone have any leads on fuel gauge pointer repair? Cos its broken.. thx guys..

 

you can try automachinery at rowell road....

[tanghao]

can i detach the cable from meter to check?

Paiseh..although rode for many years, still not very sure the internal parts

of bike.