[Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2009 (PLS ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

[loyjwe]

Hey guys, after I changed my battery, I find it hard to start my bike.

 

Need to crank it like 5 6 times at least to start it. Like even after a day in school and it's not a cold morning.

 

mi also encounter this problem. hopefully some1 is able to help us. mi also every morning need ard 5 crank to start

[biting_point]

Very detailed Bro! Ups for you.. Anyway what is the version of the above-mentioned? Is it easy to tell this model from the rest? Tks...

 

it's not very easy to tell this version apart from Spec 1.. some mechanics also scratch heads when they saw this version..

except that it got forks tubes like Version S.. unlike Spec 1 fork tubes that got cutting..

the headlight mounting also from Version S..

only tank, tail and lower engine block from Spec 1..

[HamtaroS4]

it's not very easy to tell this version apart from Spec 1.. some mechanics also scratch heads when they saw this version..

except that it got forks tubes like Version S.. unlike Spec 1 fork tubes that got cutting..

the headlight mounting also from Version S..

only tank, tail and lower engine block from Spec 1..

Oh... Ok... How come Honda released this unknown version without naming it then? Puzzling... Now I'm like thinking if mine is Spec 1 or not... Haha... But I do feel like my Vtec will open at 6.6 to 6.7 rpm because its no longer draggy like between 80 to 100 kmph. Normal for Vtec right?

[Ah Pek]

mi also encounter this problem. hopefully some1 is able to help us. mi also every morning need ard 5 crank to start

 

Could be air filter or insufficient fuel from carbs to chamber..and could be plugs too...but very likely carb choke linkage that links to internal componet in carbs that is partially 'block'.

 

Try pulling the choke a few times while reving the engine after it starts. For a more permanent remedy, use injector premix type cleaner (mix in fuel) and do the same thing. After a tamk or two..should be alright. If not, check the other possiblities mentioned in first para.

[xXxRatedxXx]

differentiating them by license plate number also not exactly correct as some of them may keep old numbers or transfer the number to a new bike leaving a spanking new FBD plate on a Ver S..

 

Project Big 1:=

• 4-1 full system, stainless steel
  
• chrome meter cluster
  
• squarish tail light
  
• chrome round headlight.
  

______________________________________________

Version S:=

• seat opened from side, key hole at the side panel
  
• more squarish tank compared to VTEC
  
• Squarish tail light
  
• OEM headers had links in btw the 4 headers.
  

______________________________________________

Version R:=

• similar to Ver S but had a squarish headlight.
  

______________________________________________

VTEC 1, hyper vtec:=

• had a different fork tube from the rest
  
• first VTEC version
  
• had a rounder square tail light compared to the older versions.
  

______________________________________________

Spec 2:=

• similar to VTEC 1
  
• first HISS model
  
• Vtec opens earlier.
  

______________________________________________

Spec 3:=

• Sharp tail, LED tail lights
  
• clear headlight.
  
• VTEC opens the same RPM as Spec 2
  
• side panels are bigger than Spec 1/2 ones
  

______________________________________________

Revo:=

• outlook similiar to Spec3
  
• first EFI model
  
• may comes with ABS.
  

______________________________________________

 

there's a version of CB400, that looked like a Spec1 but having top block of Ver S w/o VTEC.

 

Bold'or are Spec 3 and Revo.

 

Many S4 had mod and change their outlooks.. dun be surprised that a Spec 1 can look like a Spec 3.. best is to had someone from here that know how to differentiating them to go with you..

 

any more differences, please feel free to add..

 

Wow very detailed... Thx Bitey!!! I also notice the triangle by the engine write "CB400" i guess that would be project big?

 

Looking forward tto 2A in november... Ups for CB400 community in SBF! :cheeky:

[eedwinn]

Could be air filter or insufficient fuel from carbs to chamber..and could be plugs too...but very likely carb choke linkage that links to internal componet in carbs that is partially 'block'.

 

Try pulling the choke a few times while reving the engine after it starts. For a more permanent remedy, use injector premix type cleaner (mix in fuel) and do the same thing. After a tamk or two..should be alright. If not, check the other possiblities mentioned in first para.

 

Where can I get this? Is there any recommended brands for it? Thanks Ah Pek!

[Ah Pek]

Where can I get this? Is there any recommended brands for it? Thanks Ah Pek!

 

They are all very common product these days..can easily be found at most kiosk and also at some NTUC. The two that I know is NTUC Hub AMK Central) and Festive Mall (Hougang Ave 9 I think). There are various brands..can try "Carlube" or "Coral Blue"..STP is not so good by comparison. For valve cleaner, by far "Liquid Moly" is the best..that I can get cheaper by about $2 only lah.

 

After 1 to two tank full..it certainly helps and to maintain..use "Green Oil" premix with fuel. Just sharing my personal experience.

[loyjwe]

my choke cannot pull 1 ley. why? haha

[eedwinn]

What do you mean by cannot pull? Stuck there and no matter use how much strength also cannot pull out?

[Ah Pek]

my choke cannot pull 1 ley. why? haha

 

Its quite common lah..hardly use at all that's why and over a long period of time, very dry. Anyway, you can remove it if you want but have to use a long nose plier to grip the choke linkage bad just above the carbs.

 

 

For Vtec, its a bit inner and hard for the thumb and index fingers to grip the edge to pull out..non vtech is easier as it protrude out more. As for me, I took away the choke cable..and its easy to pull the linkage bar to open the flaps inside.

 

To answer you, use a long nose plier and forcefully pull it..oso you may have to do away the choke cable or get a new one...or may be dislodge it and lubricate it. Much like the clutch cable, the end of the cable is a stud that catch on to the choke linkage. Remove tank to do it.

[biting_point]

using of so much "oil" and "additives" really helps your bike???

 

how many types of products you used per tank?

with these petrol saving products, how much you spent per tank to save on petrol??

 

does it means i dun need to wash carb and change engine oil if i use all these products you mentioned??

 

for your advice please..

Edited February 17, 2009 by biting_point

[loyjwe]

What do you mean by cannot pull? Stuck there and no matter use how much strength also cannot pull out?

 

yup.

 

Its quite common lah..hardly use at all that's why and over a long period of time, very dry. Anyway, you can remove it if you want but have to use a long nose plier to grip the choke linkage bad just above the carbs.

 

 

For Vtec, its a bit inner and hard for the thumb and index fingers to grip the edge to pull out..non vtech is easier as it protrude out more. As for me, I took away the choke cable..and its easy to pull the linkage bar to open the flaps inside.

 

To answer you, use a long nose plier and forcefully pull it..oso you may have to do away the choke cable or get a new one...or may be dislodge it and lubricate it. Much like the clutch cable, the end of the cable is a stud that catch on to the choke linkage. Remove tank to do it.

 

means i need the long nose plier pull the cable between the choke n carb issit? if spoil i still able to start bike n ride?

[Ah Pek]

using of so much "oil" and "additives" really helps your bike???

 

how many types of products you used per tank?

with these petrol saving products, how much you spent per tank to save on petrol??

 

does it means i dun need to wash carb and change engine oil if i use all these products you mentioned??

 

for your advice please..

 

Not sure who you are asking as there is no quote on your post but anyway..

 

1) "using of so much "oil" and "additives" really helps your bike???"..what do you meant by "so much oil"?

 

These are not "additives"..that sound lame as with gimmick additive of yester years..like "Power Punch"..etc. They materialised to work for what they are intend for and it does work base on my personal long term uses. These are R&D products, approved and endorsed by reputable organisations. Have you tried X-1R? There are many user in this forum..may be you can concurred with them..better still, try it yourself..you get a better statement.

 

2) "how many types of products you used per tank? "

 

As with most product, never mixed any two product in one. Each has their own purpose. To be effective, one at a time for which they are meant for.

 

3) "with these petrol saving products, how much you spent per tank to save on petrol??"

 

You getting the wrong "notion" what all this product is for. It does not save you petrol or better fc..the result shows after and its a benefit..something that aids or promotes well-being of the machine engine or other components that it was intented for. Example..a bottle of "green oil" premix in your tank...it does provide better response and smoother ride..taht say, it makes the user happy. Each bottle has 60ml and every 10ml is use for 10 litres of petrol, in all, for $5.00 you can have 3 tankful of usaged base on 18 litres (give and take 2 litres short for S4). Someone may say that they are better off with $5 worth of extra petrol which give more mileage. There is a point here but what is missing is that, there is no benefit having the engine running smoother, better respond and cleaner each time...which all finally equates to better consumption. Green oil as an example is like 2T for a 4 stroke. It lubricates the cylinder wall as immediate. Moreover, it has cleaning properties.

 

In short, you get better return end of the day..cleaner and more responsive engine and fuel saving (note that FC is very subjective matter here..depend on how the ride is handle and other factors of a bike). One can stop using it when all is well till you need it again. Again, there are user, including myself has positive result. There are much to say and references to be made but I deem not necessary here. Try it..be patient, think of it as a long term investment that worth the keep of your bike condition.

 

4) "does it means i dun need to wash carb and change engine oil if i use all these products you mentioned??".

 

Much like car these days..not much people would do that. If so, it's a matter of taking of the airfiletr housing.then reving the engine and fine spraying jet and carbs vapour cleaner. Its best to avoid factory setup when at all possible. If have too, its only to replace wear and tear of carbs internal componts. Fuel these days have cleansing agent blended that works great and seldom do we see sticky residues and sludge form from clogged fuel that sit in. Fuel injector cleaner premix in petrol is ideal enough to clear jetting nozzles in occassional frequency usage. Per bottle at about $5.00 to $7.00 beats a workshop job of so call "carb servicing" at $80 and another $40 for a carb tunning where the factory setting is meddle with. So..if one still want to dismantle carbs and have it wash, still can but why would you want to do that and spend $$$s while you do not have to. In short, its not a statement of "don't have to wash carbs".

 

 

I had my carbs opened up once only and for the fact that I want my needles set and fron't inlet manifold (rubber) to engine changed. The carb was very clean and no serious sign of clogged fuel residues..and its a 11 yrs old bike at that time. What does it says..yes, those products works.

 

Liquid Moly valve cleaner and one other Blue Coral product..it helps soften and breaks up the harden carbon sitting behind the valves effectively and out tthrough the exhaust during valves opening status after combustion. Again try it, thisone is almost immediate teh first 5 km..do feel the easy breathing of the engine and the live it brings to your engine.

 

Change of engine oil is a definite must. I have yet to hear or see any instruction that says one don't have to. Frequency rate of change likely but not "don't have to"..where you heard that from?

 

When viscosity breaks down thinner, the eo has to be replaced..that any T_D_&_H knows. Say if you X-1R and viscosity enhancer, you still have to but frequency change rate takes a longer stretch...again, there are user here and myself have done that and no problem with our bikes.

 

I never believe in 3000 km mileage or which comes first like 3 months. If I use the bike regulary and ride the way a bike should, at 3000 km, I'll changed. But what if I ride hard and continous everyday?..yes, I'll changed sooner as the oil viscosity breaks thin faster. As for the 3 months, If I used the bike for 3 weeks over a 3 months stretch..it doesn't make sense for the period interval change.

 

Well..hope what I'm sharing here makes sense to your question, again..its all living example and still occurring.

[Ah Pek]

>>means i need the long nose plier pull the cable between the choke n carb issit? if spoil i still able to start bike n ride?

 

Can oso like lah but you gonna kink the cable part where the pilers bite unless you are very careful. What I meant is use the pliers to grip the carb's linkage bar from the right side and pull all the way out till it stop..about2-3 inches. That would move your cable too. If cable still jammed, guess you ahve to get the cable lube somehow or change a new one. Me?..I thrown mine away years ago...LOL!

[loyjwe]

haha. k thanks pek. will try the pull the choke from right side see how. even if spoil also no problem 1 rite. thanks

[Ah Pek]

haha. k thanks pek. will try the pull the choke from right side see how. even if spoil also no problem 1 rite. thanks

 

Better not spoil the linkage part..cable is ok. If you are passing by back to home, why not drop by..I help you get it done.

[inspire85]

Was wondering how long do i need to wash and tune my carburetor?

[loyjwe]

ok thanks ah pek. see when if passing by will give u a call see u free anot. thanks

[arsonist]

where to get a good quality L shaped tyre valve? and it is ard how much?

[HamtaroS4]

Bridgeport Tyre Valves at Unique Motorsports! $60 per pair with installation.. Many colours to choose from...

 

Their thread... http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185195

 

Cheers...

[syarif]

u guys shld pump N2 in your tyres. maintainance free, just check the pressure every 2 weeks. N2 tyres are used in racings. yeap. so if its good for races, shld be good on the road. and tyre life last longer too.

[sLapshock]

Passed my TP, now looking for shop to survey.

 

Looking for S4 Revo, only shop i called is Bike Production that quote me 13.8k for 24 years old with 4 years experience.

 

Can anyone give me any other shop for me to reccomend?

[- MaMaN -]

Try ASPhoon Serangoon. Look for Ah Siang.

[Nozumi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nozumi

[Q]

I'm looking to add 2 additional side box to my S4 SpecIII - how much will it cost? Where to get it done? Currently, has a 45L box on the rear. Thanks

 

Price varies...depend on what type of sidebox u want...

 

 

Thanks, got a quote & will be installing them next month before my Thailand trip in Apr.

[Revouis]

i think 13.8 is ok lehz though i bought at bike production at 13.2 when i just passed 2a i buy liao...but i bought with 2more forumers