[Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2009 (PLS ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

[soma]

Ok, a stupid question....just got myself a S4 Version S, the choke lever on the left handle bar, pull towards myself or push away from myself is open choke? Thanks for the advice

[inspire85]

Can't really feel it. The sudden surge is very minor, you need to really concentrate.

 

Alright, one question. What are the two lil round round thing that can be "pulled" out from below the seat.Don't know how to explain. Near the back seat.

 

Bro try dragging at gear 2, u shld experience a sudden pull after 6krpm.. At gear 6 i oso dun really feel the pull, except the exhaust suddenly get louder.. :cheeky:

[sadxjr]

okay then. thanks bros for all the info. cheers ! have a good night. man u won the carling cup though ..

[meDaniel]

Bro try dragging at gear 2, u shld experience a sudden pull after 6krpm.. At gear 6 i oso dun really feel the pull, except the exhaust suddenly get louder.. :cheeky:

 

I know, I tried that already. And its not that loud.

[Exu]

Erm hi.. i'm riding spec 1 and recently i'm experiencing this problem ..

 

When my bike is on the move everything is normal but when i allow it to "free-wheel" meaning let go off my throttle.. i will be able to hear this "clinging" sound it seems to be coming from my gear or chain which i've no idea which...

 

I've sent it to my bike shop for servicing and the mechanic shorten my chain .. i just got back my bike today but i'm still experiencing the same problem..

 

Any seniors here can advice me on what seem to be the problem or have anyone experience the same problem? I'm seriously beginning to get worried..

 

Hopefully someone can help me here!

 

Thanks in advance..

[bigboystoys]

just change my clutch...here are some problem.

when engine in gears, try to start the engine with clutch engaged, Im not able to start, whats the problem.

If you have always NOT been able to start when clutch-in and in-gear, then your clutch-in switch may be damaged. You can take it out and check.

However, if all along you can start with clutch-in and in-gear, then it could be linked to your 2nd problem.

 

2nd problem. after overnite parked, engine start normal, but when engage 1st gear, bike will jump as if clutch still engage....

any theory? before I send back to shop?

 

Im sure its not the type of engine oil, tried both, no help.

thanks bro...ah pek pls suggest.

 

A worn out clutch will have a relatively high clutch-in biting point (fully released clutch lever is 'high, fully clutched-in lever is 'low'). My guess is with your newly changed clutch, the mechanic did not readjust your clutch lever to compensate for the 'lower' clutch-in position. So what's happening is, you're NEVER fully clutching-in and the clutch packs are constantly rubbing and slipping. Your problem is made worse when it's cold and the oil viscosity is much higher.

Just adjust your clutch lever so that the biting point of clutch is nearer to the 'high' position. Do it quickly so you don't kill your new clutch packs with the constant rubbing/slipping.

 

[Ah Pek]

just change my clutch...here are some problem.

when engine in gears, try to start the engine with clutch engaged, Im not able to start, whats the problem.

 

2nd problem. after overnite parked, engine start normal, but when engage 1st gear, bike will jump as if clutch still engage....

any theory? before I send back to shop?

 

Im sure its not the type of engine oil, tried both, no help.

thanks bro...ah pek pls suggest.

 

Hmmm...as for the clutch switch, may be the mech did not have it connected back properly. If it was working before, this would likely be the case.

 

About gearing in and the bike jumps..bigboystoys has a good point. But if after adjusting the biting point and still persist, better go back to the same mototiam to have it resolve. Got a feeling that the assembly is not done right..did you chnage clutch housing? There is a part in it that mech tends to have it wrongly "orientated". My concern is also if the part used are for S4.

 

Do keep us posted so we can learn from your experience. Thanks.

[bigboystoys]

I think tried the second one...where is the location of clutch in switch?

thanks for the input...:shades:

 

Look at your clutch lever. There should be 2 wires with 90deg female spade connectors connected to your clutch lever housing. Disconnect the 2 wires by just pulling them out. You should see 2 male spades of the clutch-in switch exposed then.

Remove your clutch lever from the housing first. Then using a flathead screwdriver, push the clutch-in switch out of the housing. The switch is a spring-actuated normally-open kind that is housed within a plastic capsule. You can open it by twisting the housing. Just becareful not to break the housing.

 

My switch didn't work too and when I opened to check, the spring was broken due to corrosion and the contacts were also coated with oxide that they barely can conduct. I replaced with a spring from the push-on-push-off pen. Haha. Just make sure when you reassemble it, put in lots of grease to the spring.

 

 

[HamtaroS4]

Erm hi.. i'm riding spec 1 and recently i'm experiencing this problem ..

 

When my bike is on the move everything is normal but when i allow it to "free-wheel" meaning let go off my throttle.. i will be able to hear this "clinging" sound it seems to be coming from my gear or chain which i've no idea which...

 

I've sent it to my bike shop for servicing and the mechanic shorten my chain .. i just got back my bike today but i'm still experiencing the same problem..

 

Any seniors here can advice me on what seem to be the problem or have anyone experience the same problem? I'm seriously beginning to get worried..

 

Hopefully someone can help me here!

 

Thanks in advance..

I'm no senior but I've experienced it before too... Thought it was my chain(possibly spoilt or loose) but it was not... In the end I let it go on until one day suddenly there was a PoP! sound and my bike wobbled on TPE on its rear... And I knew the rear wheel bearings had popped....

 

So my diagnosis was the sound came from the worn out ball bearings rubbing against each other... When the mechanic took out the ball bearings, whats left were rusty metal shavings... After he changed them, there was no more such sounds...

 

Your 'clinging' sounds are difficult to detect as in the source it came from? Sounds like metal grinding? Then maybe your problem is similar to mine... Just sharing...

[stRobe]

I'm no senior but I've experienced it before too... Thought it was my chain(possibly spoilt or loose) but it was not... In the end I let it go on until one day suddenly there was a PoP! sound and my bike wobbled on TPE on its rear... And I knew the rear wheel bearings had popped....

 

So my diagnosis was the sound came from the worn out ball bearings rubbing against each other... When the mechanic took out the ball bearings, whats left were rusty metal shavings... After he changed them, there was no more such sounds...

 

Your 'clinging' sounds are difficult to detect as in the source it came from? Sounds like metal grinding? Then maybe your problem is similar to mine... Just sharing...

 

bro how old were those bearings??

[MUSHA]

bro how old were those bearings??

 

I feel that moving parts cannot be measured in terms of time frame. Mileage used is more accurate.

[HamtaroS4]

bro how old were those bearings??

I dunno how old they were but the bearing's oil seals were broken and water seeped in thats why they rusted....

[bryan_LaZY]

Hi,

Like to check out the market prices for

1) S4 Yuasa Batt

2) Retifier

3) Magnetic Coil

4) CDI

 

Thanks.

My bike is down... nw dunno which is e prob. Hopefully is Battery Flat

[Ah Pek]

1) S4 Yuasa Batt : $45 - $55 LAB Chiong! Original : $65 to 85 depending on AMP/Hr

2) Retifier : $65 (don't know where from..probably China) to $85 (Japan)

3) Magnetic Coil : $200+

4) CDI : $300+ (get secondhand one good liao!..about $90 to $120)

[bryan_LaZY]

1) S4 Yuasa Batt : $45 - $55 LAB Chiong! Original : $65 to 85 depending on AMP/Hr

2) Retifier : $65 (don't know where from..probably China) to $85 (Japan)

3) Magnetic Coil : $200+

4) CDI : $300+ (get secondhand one good liao!..about $90 to $120)

 

wow, thanks man ah pek.

Always there whenever i needed info.

 

I try push start and it works, but need to rev like crazy at traffic light to prevent it from stalling...

Was at Demsey, then ride thru orchard, ppl tot i crazy, all @_@

But still die off b4 entering PIE, the RPM just drop to 0 and bike dies off

 

 

But bike when switch to on, got light, but cant hear e cranking start sound. What could be issue?

My trip meter, Time all reset.

I suspect is Battery, but might lead to rectifier and magnetic coil....

 

 

Thanks for all advices.

[akirajo]

Does anybody know if i were to modifield my ver s the whole meter to the vtec kind, can it be done? If possible what is needed to change?

[eedwinn]

wow, thanks man ah pek.

Always there whenever i needed info.

 

I try push start and it works, but need to rev like crazy at traffic light to prevent it from stalling...

Was at Demsey, then ride thru orchard, ppl tot i crazy, all @_@

But still die off b4 entering PIE, the RPM just drop to 0 and bike dies off

 

 

But bike when switch to on, got light, but cant hear e cranking start sound. What could be issue?

My trip meter, Time all reset.

I suspect is Battery, but might lead to rectifier and magnetic coil....

 

 

Thanks for all advices.

 

That time I had the same problem as you too, there were lights, but there was no cranking sound and trip meter and time all reset.

 

Only difference is that after I push start, I didn't have to keep revving to keep the engine alive.

 

Mine was the problem with the battery. Changed it and problem solved! Which version of S4 are you riding? If Vtec II or III the meter should swipe once when you switch on the ignition and another time when you crank the engine, this is an indication that your battery is weak.

[HamtaroS4]

Hi guys,

 

Just wanna know from former or current users of Bitubo suspensions w/o canisters for Super 4. I just bought a 2nd hand one which was bought in end 2006. Need to know the following:

 

1) Maintenance - Can I wash them with soap and water? Need anything else like WD40? Anything to avoid? How to know if leaking?

 

2) Mounting - The hardness setting from soft to hard is mounted inwards or facing outwards? Which is the best setting for the hardness from 1 to 5 for regular riding sometimes with pillion? Is it good to extend the springs to the maximum length or is there a recommended setting?

 

3) Servicing - How often must I send them for servicing? Where can I go to other than Mezzo? How much is normally charged for servicing with or w/o rebuilding?

 

The rubber O rings on the ones I bought are ok but its the rubber washers on the exterior that are worn out or torn.. Will affect performance?

 

Really appreciate any answers or opinions.. Sorry if these Qs have been asked before but I really can't find time to look thru every post... Thanks in advance...

[bryan_LaZY]

That time I had the same problem as you too, there were lights, but there was no cranking sound and trip meter and time all reset.

 

Only difference is that after I push start, I didn't have to keep revving to keep the engine alive.

 

Mine was the problem with the battery. Changed it and problem solved! Which version of S4 are you riding? If Vtec II or III the meter should swipe once when you switch on the ignition and another time when you crank the engine, this is an indication that your battery is weak.

 

i saw ur post also. did some read up.

Seems like mine is battery flat... hopefully is...

Mine a Vtec 1.

 

Only can hear e cranking sound becoming weaker, like gg to 'kaput' tt sound.... then need to rev n rev, else will die off. i also worry if rev too much, might spoil other parts also.

 

nw at e bikeshop, wait til monday. If aft change batt, n e batt is nt charging... then :cry:

[limited ed]

[Q] Any of you riding a super four spec III who has an original paintwork( gunmetal/grey/red) and wants to go for a paintwork, im willing to pay you $40 and trade with my coverset(yellow) n ill DIY the whole process.

 

Pls PM me.

[Ah Pek]

i saw ur post also. did some read up.

Seems like mine is battery flat... hopefully is...

Mine a Vtec 1.

 

Only can hear e cranking sound becoming weaker, like gg to 'kaput' tt sound.... then need to rev n rev, else will die off. i also worry if rev too much, might spoil other parts also.

 

nw at e bikeshop, wait til monday. If aft change batt, n e batt is nt charging... then :cry:

 

Yes..have your battery changed first and see how. The fault could be initiated from a melted or burned out rectifier connector. If this is the case..the three phase alternator incoming point to the rectifier might have fried your rectifier by now. In short, battery and rectifier has to be replaced and os is the hardness bramch rectifier connector. This 'problem' is common for any aged bikes.

 

If the above does not work well, may have to have an alternator check to determine if it could be the alternator at fault itself..like one coil not working and thus affect charging. If you need help, pm me..can do a check for you.

[Ah Pek]

Hi guys,

 

Just wanna know from former or current users of Bitubo suspensions w/o canisters for Super 4. I just bought a 2nd hand one which was bought in end 2006. Need to know the following:

 

1) Maintenance - Can I wash them with soap and water? Need anything else like WD40? Anything to avoid? How to know if leaking?

 

2) Mounting - The hardness setting from soft to hard is mounted inwards or facing outwards? Which is the best setting for the hardness from 1 to 5 for regular riding sometimes with pillion? Is it good to extend the springs to the maximum length or is there a recommended setting?

 

3) Servicing - How often must I send them for servicing? Where can I go to other than Mezzo? How much is normally charged for servicing with or w/o rebuilding?

 

The rubber O rings on the ones I bought are ok but its the rubber washers on the exterior that are worn out or torn.. Will affect performance?

 

Really appreciate any answers or opinions.. Sorry if these Qs have been asked before but I really can't find time to look thru every post... Thanks in advance...

 

1. Yes you can..but DO NOT use WD40. After washed..get a bottle of Silicon spray like those of (example only) Maxima SC1 ($17.50)..or just about any other brand that price around $7.50 to $10.00 per can. It protects the surface from environmental corrosion and keeps things shiny and gaps 'lubricated'.

 

2. Hard is always better but too much is of no use. As long as the setting gives you no back tyre wobble..it works great. If you riding single does not wobble but with pillion does..you have to go a notch harder.

 

When things set to hard..the actual thing happening is that the spring has better return rebound..meaning..pushes the dip back up faster..or in actual bike talk term..rate of rebound is faster. This is most useful at fast bend at low corners.

 

3. No such things as suspension servicing when there is nothing wrong with it. If your spring is weak or lube oil content worn of status condition..its time to replace them. Of course if you feel like doing it if there's nothing wrong, I ain't got no comment on that. My suspension has been rebuild once and it has last me 8 long years without the so call "servicing". Go to a suspension specialist like Teck Thye..asked for David (12 Braddell Road..tel: 62803138/62826564). Tell him the guy if the shinny PB1 recommended you so he won't anyhow charge. Just as a reference, to rebuild a pair of SHOWA back shocks..it coast $240 inclusive of a spring coil spacer that up the rebound rate. This covers fork oil, external rubber damper if damages, seals, nitrogen gas refilled (for canister only), spacer..whatever that is out of specs. If non of this is done..better settle with him what is to be done ONLY and HOW MUCH..FIRST?

 

If there is nothing wrong with your suspension, don't do any servicing. If it leaks out oil (seal gone) or internal parts worn (caused by lack of oil and metal filings)..than a one time rebuild is a better decision.

 

Again, he may have or may not have the parts for Bitubo..asked first for the "the rubber washers on the exterior that are worn out or torn.."..he may have compatible 3rd party parts that are even better.

 

Good luck.

Edited March 8, 2009 by Ah Pek

[bryan_LaZY]

Yes..have your battery changed first and see how. The fault could be initiated from a melted or burned out rectifier connector. If this is the case..the three phase alternator incoming point to the rectifier might have fried your rectifier by now. In short, battery and rectifier has to be replaced and os is the hardness bramch rectifier connector. This 'problem' is common for any aged bikes.

 

If the above does not work well, may have to have an alternator check to determine if it could be the alternator at fault itself..like one coil not working and thus affect charging. If you need help, pm me..can do a check for you.

 

thanks man ah pek.

can PM me ur no?

 

if nt tt ok, will ride down n drink 'kopi' with u.

[HamtaroS4]

Thanks Ah Pek... Your words always make sense where the pocket matters most! You are like the Guru... LOL...

[rayhunter]

3. No such things as suspension servicing when there is nothing arong with it. If your spring is weak or lube oil content worn of status condition..its time to replace them. Of course if you feel like doing it if there's nothing wrong, I ain't got no comment on that. My suspension has been rebuild once and it has last me 8 long tears without the so call "servicing". Go to a suspension specialist like Teck Thye..asked for David (12 Braddell Road..tel: 62803138/62826564). Tell him the guy if the shinny PB1 recommended you so he won't anyhow charge. Just as a reference, to rebuild a pair of SHOWA back shocks..it coast $240 inclusive of a spring coil spacer that up the rebound rate. This covers fork oil, external rubber damper if damages, seals, nitrogen gas refilled (for canister only), spacer..whatever that is out of specs. If non of this is done..better settle with him what is to be done ONLY and HOW MUCH..FIRST

 

really excellent!! my suspension after going through wat ah pek had mentioned above, works beyond my expectation!!