[Q&A] SBF CB400 Official Q&A Thread 2009 (PLS ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)

[onghs]

Hi,can check with you guys here,

anyone knows where to remove dent on the tank without removing the paint work?

please help,tks.

[dragonforce]

depending on how serious is your dent, normally paintwork will still be affected..

[bryan_LaZY]

1) S4 Yuasa Batt : $45 - $55 LAB Chiong! Original : $65 to 85 depending on AMP/Hr

2) Retifier : $65 (don't know where from..probably China) to $85 (Japan)

3) Magnetic Coil : $200+

4) CDI : $300+ (get secondhand one good liao!..about $90 to $120)

 

sian... kena 'kiang' e $$.... spend $500 for Rectifier, Magnetic Coil and Battery....

 

The coil blacken, got chao ta smell n cannot recharge.... hai

broke $$ to solve disaster (Chinese Translate)

:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

[Ah Pek]

sian... kena 'kiang' e $$.... spend $500 for Rectifier, Magnetic Coil and Battery....

 

The coil blacken, got chao ta smell n cannot recharge.... hai

broke $$ to solve disaster (Chinese Translate)

:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

 

This can likely happened only when rectifier short at the rectifier connector end (5 wires..3 yellow from magneto and red and green rectified output). Once rectifier fried, alternator excessive current goes right thru and overcharge thus battery oso kena burn.

 

Take care to use good eo and changed regulary..note that excessive metal residue from gears wear and tear can worn out the coil inductor winding laquered protection. But now you should be glad that all is good.

[bryan_LaZY]

This can likely happened only when rectifier short at the rectifier connector end (5 wires..3 yellow from magneto and red and green rectified output). Once rectifier fried, alternator excessive current goes right thru and overcharge thus battery oso kena burn.

 

Take care to use good eo and changed regulary..note that excessive metal residue from gears wear and tear can worn out the coil inductor winding laquered protection. But now you should be glad that all is good.

 

is gd la, can feel e power, cos full batt ma....

hai, just a S4 so many maintanence, cant imagine those maintaning bigger cc....

 

makes me having 2nd tots on getting bigger bike. :dot:

 

But i see e parts, like very simple, plug n play nia... maybe next time buy n stock up, then find some 1 to guide n install.

[Ah Pek]

Thanks Ah Pek... Your words always make sense where the pocket matters most! You are like the Guru... LOL...

 

Guru?..LOL!...no lah but thanks for the kind words. Someday when I have a bike shape glowing halo behind my head..than u can say I'm Guru.

[Ah Pek]

is gd la, can feel e power, cos full batt ma....

hai, just a S4 so many maintanence, cant imagine those maintaning bigger cc....

 

makes me having 2nd tots on getting bigger bike. :dot:

 

But i see e parts, like very simple, plug n play nia... maybe next time buy n stock up, then find some 1 to guide n install.

 

For S4, Vtec or non, its all the same as far as basic in keeping the bike in good conditional performance. Changing good eo (no one brand is better than the other) timely. You have to know what style of ride you are treating your bike with. Standard oil, regarless of vicosity grading (W) is only just as good for average commuting and routine day to day uses of your ride. But if you are the 'rough' type and bring your bike down to their knees as if you are R Valentino..well, there are some xtra things you have to do. Talk to any race mechanic and you know the eo they have in that crankcase is of their special blend.

 

Its all about full protection for the stuff in the crank case and yet gives you the max in performance when you need it..without stress to the bike. It takes a lot of pain and patient before you can come off with the ride 'formula' for your ride. No one oil, irregardless of grade, be it sync or mineral is good for any bike, you have to find the right blend.

[Ah Pek]

Hi,can check with you guys here,

anyone knows where to remove dent on the tank without removing the paint work?

please help,tks.

 

Yap..Dragonforce is right. Normally you would end up with some panel beating job and a new coat of paint. If the dent is not thats erious, even using putty filler..you still need sanding to be done and finished off with a new coat of paint job.

 

If its just 'nick' dent here and there, go get some nice stickers to cover up.

 

Otehrwise, one solution that solve all..get your tank a bra!

[PaLmEr]

if the dent is not too big you may be able to approach "paintless dent remover" at Capitol Carpark at City hall

[Roy80]

hi all, anyone knows what to look out for when buying a 2nd honda spec3? how;s the engine sound like, what to look out for from the outlook of the bike. thanks . have a great day:thumb:

[FrdAuZ]

hi all,

some price and product enquiry

 

NGK iridium sparkplug how much n where the best deal? plus fixing. i dunno how to DIY.

 

Maxima Extra fully syn EO good anot? and how much?

 

Lastly, DID X ring and did sproket(if theres any) how much n where?

 

Thanks alot..hope the pros noe.. esp Ah Pek

[waadee]

yah iam looking 4 spec 3 also.. price and condition is my priority

[democalus]

There is something stuck to my header (spec III), either melted foam or melted plastic bag. How do i remove it DIY. I may have to remove the header to throughly remove it and probably also respray the header. Do i need any special tools to remove the header? Can it be DIY? Can DIY be done in 1 full day like saturday or sunday (including respray of header)? I just realise this problem. I dont have any pictures of it yet. Can anyone help?

Edited March 11, 2009 by democalus

[Ah Pek]

hi all,

some price and product enquiry

 

NGK iridium sparkplug how much n where the best deal? plus fixing. i dunno how to DIY.

 

Maxima Extra fully syn EO good anot? and how much?

 

Lastly, DID X ring and did sproket(if theres any) how much n where?

 

Thanks alot..hope the pros noe.. esp Ah Pek

 

1) Not NGK iridium sparkplug but Denso at $15 a piece at LAB (yes original)

2) No comment on eo brand..all same to me but wait till you try my own

blend.

3) DID X ring and complete sprocket set (front & back) at aunty inclusive

installation at $190..other shop $180. Never heard of DID sprocket.

[Ah Pek]

There is something stuck to my header (spec III), either melted foam or melted plastic bag. How do i remove it DIY. I may have to remove the header to throughly remove it and probably also respray the header. Do i need any special tools to remove the header? Can it be DIY? Can DIY be done in 1 full day like saturday or sunday (including respray of header)? I just realise this problem. I dont have any pictures of it yet. Can anyone help?

 

Try using a torch burner and heat till it's soft from outside and scrape it off with a flat wooden stick soak with kerosene.

[democalus]

Try using a torch burner and heat till it's soft from outside and scrape it off with a flat wooden stick soak with kerosene.

 

thanx Ah Pek

[KAWASAKl]

bros, intalling Predator face mask or windscreen isit legal or can pass inspection? sry for the noob question.

[slutgarden]

hey guys, what could be the possible problems that i might have such that my v-tec do not open up even though after 7k rpm??.. riding vtec 1 here.

 

recently just changed engine oil, clutch plate, engine case, tuning...

 

everything was fine, until I dragged my last gear till 7k rpm, and i realise that v-tec did not open (meaning the sound is like ver S, w/o the roar, but there is still power though, but not as much power when v-tec kicks in).. i then continued to drag the bike till 13k rpm, it was smooth, nothing sluggish, but the thing is v-tec did not open !!.. and vtec did not kick in on ALL gears.

 

dont ask me hw i know if it kicks in or not, because all v-tec users will know if they have rode the bike for more than half a year..

 

and i found out, there are some oil leakage at the side engine case, from the rubber linings, around the gasket area.. could that be the reason?.

 

but i doubt so, or could it be the valve at the left part somewhere under the tank?.

[Ah Pek]

hey guys, what could be the possible problems that i might have such that my v-tec do not open up even though after 7k rpm??.. riding vtec 1 here.

 

recently just changed engine oil, clutch plate, engine case, tuning...

 

everything was fine, until I dragged my last gear till 7k rpm, and i realise that v-tec did not open (meaning the sound is like ver S, w/o the roar, but there is still power though, but not as much power when v-tec kicks in).. i then continued to drag the bike till 13k rpm, it was smooth, nothing sluggish, but the thing is v-tec did not open !!.. and vtec did not kick in on ALL gears.

 

dont ask me hw i know if it kicks in or not, because all v-tec users will know if they have rode the bike for more than half a year..

 

and i found out, there are some oil leakage at the side engine case, from the rubber linings, around the gasket area.. could that be the reason?.

 

but i doubt so, or could it be the valve at the left part somewhere under the tank?.

 

Sound like your lost of oil preesure or oil pressure sensor not working. Vtec mode is avtivated when you reach after 6k rpm depending on model of Vtec. Go back to where you last visit and check with the mech. About oil leaking, likely the nuts that locks your cover is not properly secure or could be damaged (when cross thread, the 11 out of 10 mech won't tell you) from the work done.

[slutgarden]

thanks ahpek, well will it be advisable to send the bike to boonsiew?.

how come i hear nobody ever send their honda's to boonsiew for such services?.

would it be better to send it back to agent?.

 

hrmmm

[tng2377]

thanks ahpek, well will it be advisable to send the bike to boonsiew?.

how come i hear nobody ever send their honda's to boonsiew for such services?.

would it be better to send it back to agent?.

 

hrmmm

 

Can it be the yoshi pipe system that why u cant feel the V-TEC kick in?

Dont mind can update us what has been done to the v-tec issue after your repair.

Tks

[Ah Pek]

thanks ahpek, well will it be advisable to send the bike to boonsiew?.

how come i hear nobody ever send their honda's to boonsiew for such services?.

would it be better to send it back to agent?.

 

hrmmm

 

We call them "Company bikes" in the old days just because we buy it direct from Boon Siew. These days, it's brought in by others and Boon Siew shares the Container space...and to identify the difference, company bikes comes with a Boon Siew custom stickers on it.

 

It cost more to have your bike done at Boon Siew but at least you know you are assure of a quality job back by some warranty period. You can join their members (discount on parts and service) if the bike is bought from them or anywhere else that as long as the bike is 'redistributed' by Boon Siew.

 

Outside shop atitude is that, more bike done in a day, more $s make. Some are monthly paid mech or some are share-holder-mech. They are still human and they work from 9:30 am to 7:30pm mostly. Most of them don't ride or won S4 to really know the bike..its by repairing them.

[Ah Pek]

Can it be the yoshi pipe system that why u cant feel the V-TEC kick in?

Dont mind can update us what has been done to the v-tec issue after your repair.

Tks

 

Think not as he mentioned "recently just changed engine oil, clutch plate, engine case, tuning..."..nothing about pipes.

[sadxjr]

hi bros. when i start my engine early in the morning, it feels like the engine sound feels like choking, having asthma. after awhile, then it sounds alright to me. but whenever i off the engine, then 5 mins later went to start again, the asthma came back. is it normal? please advice. thanks in advance!

[slutgarden]

Can it be the yoshi pipe system that why u cant feel the V-TEC kick in?

Dont mind can update us what has been done to the v-tec issue after your repair.

Tks

 

well not really, because tuning all done, and bike was in tip top condition..

 

went to mech, found out there was leackage ard the engine case area, sealed with new gasket and rubber tubings..

 

still v-tec doesnt kick in, although there is no power loss..

 

opened up the valve, found loads of carbon packed, cleared everything, but still vtec doesnt kick in..

 

now all scratching head, even the mech now trying to trial and error..

 

could be 1) valve worn out

2) vacuum nt really working, air escaping. (but this is just a plausible thing as there is not much power loss.)

 

 

timing and firing all okay, no pop pop or whatever..

 

will update again tomorrow , will be sending bike back to the same shop and see what we can do.