[Archive] DRZ SM 2005-2010

[overcrash]

Ya lor... since when he so sensitive one.

 

john changed liao, now he's a SNAG! =D

[talkingcock]

Hi Guys,

 

For Zee tires which one is good Michelin or Perelli tires? They said Michelin Pilot power is good.

 

1) For the rear tires 150/70 R17 or 160/70 R17 which one is better.

2) Roughly how much for both front and rear tires cost.

3) Roughly which shop can get most of the accessories cheap....

 

Pls advise....tks in advance

[JoeKilat89]

Hey guys, where cn u get the white bulb for the ktm headlight? Btw bumped onto master biting point just nw at UM! Hahaha! Cool dude with his blingest zee!

 

Lol. So biting point always go UM uh..

[adamant1988]

stock carb.. delta full system. no jetting done yet. no modification to carb and airbox. stock block. so far i haven max rev all the gears and nv try top speed before. just that 4th gear wan to open more to change to 5th gear this situation happen.. like something choked, bike wont accerate. ard 3-4 secs den ok..

 

hmm mayb can try check the carb or change the spark plug first?

[Raptor]

stock carb.. delta full system. no jetting done yet. no modification to carb and airbox. stock block. so far i haven max rev all the gears and nv try top speed before. just that 4th gear wan to open more to change to 5th gear this situation happen.. like something choked, bike wont accerate. ard 3-4 secs den ok..

 

Need to rejet the carb. Stock carb comes with #22.5 pilot jet and #142.5 main jet. These jets cannot handle the greater free flow when you go more than 1/2 throttle openings with an aftermarket pipe, its meant for the stock pipe.

 

Mebbe you should go see my mechanic. You can do the jettings and modifications to the carb similar to putting a JD kit in. For the jetting and tuning it will probably cost you about $80 and you are not paying $120 for a JD kit but it runs like it has one.

[biting_point]

Meet up and ride out this Friday evening..

 

Interested forumers PM me..

Will release info only via PM..

 

Learn more and know more during meetups..

Look at other DRZ setups and decals..

[etky85]

thanks for all e replies n help.

raptor, this happened only recently.. I change my pipe for one year already.

I think i go do jetting too. Can pm me ur mech shop n number? Thanks!

[suer4vtec1]

Meet up and ride out this Friday evening..

 

Interested forumers PM me..

Will release info only via PM..

 

Learn more and know more during meetups..

Look at other DRZ setups and decals..

 

 

couldn't make it 2nite. had some things to do. do hope cn make the nxt one :sian:

[overcrash]

Some DRZ400SM stuffs can be found here

 

ThumpsUp.sg Advertiser Board @ SBF

[spenchew]

can't make it for the meetup becos batt flat again. thanks for the invite.

think have to replace batt.

someone told me removing the fuse on top of batt compartment helps prevent batt drain. any idea what is that fuse for?

anyone knows where i can buy n install kickstart kit?

[rudyra70]

Hi guys, i just bought a drz recently. Still a noob abt this bike. Can anyone recommend a good shop to service and buy neccesary accesories for the bike. Would like to join u guys often for group meetup too... Tks a lot...

[overcrash]

Hi guys, i just bought a drz recently. Still a noob abt this bike. Can anyone recommend a good shop to service and buy neccesary accesories for the bike. Would like to join u guys often for group meetup too... Tks a lot...

 

what stuffs you interested to get ? oO

 

for servicing the usual bike shops are holeshot, magix motowerkz, ah seng @ mayo, abboy @ kallang, bikewerkz etc etc

[SparkerS1]

anyone knows where i can buy n install kickstart kit?

 

hmmm, i also interested to know, any drzSM fixed this?

[biting_point]

hmmm, i also interested to know, any drzSM fixed this?

 

i know of a few who fixed this..

can buy the whole set at KS Motors at abt $250..

fixing labour costs unsure, but should be abt $30-50..

 

for those who wanna DIY..

[spenchew]

thanks,

can pm me ks motor address. searched but cannot find.

want to visit them regarding the kit

Edited May 11, 2010 by spenchew

[biting_point]

thanks,

can pm me ks motor address. searched but cannot find.

want to visit them regarding the kit

 

I dun have the actual address but they are just opposite Regina..

 

From Regina, you cross the road and follow the traffic down..

it's just after the soya milk stall..

 

do confirm the price, i may be fixing it soon too..

[JoeKilat89]

Hi guys, i just bought a drz recently. Still a noob abt this bike. Can anyone recommend a good shop to service and buy neccesary accesories for the bike. Would like to join u guys often for group meetup too... Tks a lot...

 

U could come down with me if there is a meet up.. cos im also consider new.

[sarge]

Riding techniques: anybody posted on this before?

 

I got this from supermotocanada.com

 

 

 

-"If you just ride your 'motard on the road then you can simply ride it like any other bike, but if you want to get the most out of your bike, or you want to go racing, then there are some basic techniques that are worth practising.

 

The first one is just where to sit. Under heavy acceleration, especially on wet or slippery surfaces, you need to get as much weight over the rear wheel as possible. To do this sit as far back on your seat as possible. Obviously this means you're taking a lot of weight off the front of your bike, but as the front wheel has little to do while accelerating this isn't a problem. Going into a corner, on the other hand, is another matter entirely. Just before you hit the brakes, slide your body right up to the tank so that you've got as much weight going into the front tire's contact patch as possible. Yes, this can mean you're more likely to pull a 'rolling stoppie' into the corner but just as the front tire does very little under acceleration, the rear tire does very little under braking. This seating position should also be used on aggressive standing starts.

 

Now we come to the best thing about riding a supermotard bike - sliding it into corners. If you ride a two-stroke 'motard you'll find this technique very difficult indeed, but on four-strokes it's actually pretty easy ... once you've got over the fear of sliding a bike around, anyway, as it goes against every road rider's idea of how to ride. The first thing you need to do is find a nice quiet road with little, if any, traffic that, preferably, has a side road for you to slide in to. Now, ride up to the corner and take the racing line into it. Hopefully this corner is a first or second gear turn. If it isn't take a line in to it that makes it one as you don't won't to be going too fast at this point. When you're happy with your racing line, again race up to this corner, but this time leave your braking until pretty late so that you're taking the turn in a racing manner. As you approach the turn you want to be in at least one gear higher than you need. As you hit the brakes (both of them, not just the front) select the gear for the corner and then release the clutch lever - no going through each separate gear or blipping the throttle between changes ala road racing - and you should feel the rear start to slide controllably.

 

You shouldn't need much rear brake as you want the wheel to continue to turn as it slides sideways. If you feel the rear wheel juddering (you'll instantly recognise the feeling if/when it happens) then you're in too low a gear for your entry speed - feather the clutch slightly and it will go away. And that's it. Overcome your fear of sliding, add a little practise and you too can look like Stephane Chambon. Hey, I said look, not be as quick as...

 

There's one more thing to talk about now and that's how to stick your foot out while cornering. Yes, I know it seems stupid but there are a couple of things to remember if you do it. The first thing is not to dig your foot into the floor as you corner - your foot should be above the surface and only touch down if the bike slides. You also want to make absolutely certain that your foot is pointing the same way you're travelling, which is the same direction your front wheel is pointing. If you do have a slide you want your foot to kick the bike up, but you also want your leg to only move in its natural plain of travel. If your foot's pointing slightly sideways then, if you're unlucky, your foot could grip the surface and twist in an unnatural direction that can end in anything from a sore ankle or knee to utterly shattering your leg. And because the break's caused by a sideways force you're not just looking at a bad break, but a spiral break which is the type of injury that almost cost multi World GP500 Champion Mick Doohan his leg. And don't forget to make sure your toes are hard against the engine casings when you put your foot back on the pegs as you don't want them digging into the tarmac if you loose control just after the apex or if you hit one of the conveniently placed tire/hay bale walls as this could also result in your foot being spun sideways with the same possible results as mentioned above."

[spenchew]

thanks B-Point, will check with them n update over here

[FinG]

u guys drzers rocks:)

[biting_point]

We are going Kulai for Nasi Lemak this friday..

For details, PM me..

[konspire]

haiz....i've got problem with my engine start button contacts. somehow the contact to the lights r not good. occur last time n went to UM n they spray wd40 n it works. now it comes again, worse, shake shake the button oso cannot get lights. at least last time shake shake a bit can get. anyone has this problem?

[biting_point]

haiz....i've got problem with my engine start button contacts. somehow the contact to the lights r not good. occur last time n went to UM n they spray wd40 n it works. now it comes again, worse, shake shake the button oso cannot get lights. at least last time shake shake a bit can get. anyone has this problem?

 

go get it check again.. if the contact spoilt, may needa change..

change to DRC one loh..

[Raptor]

Riding techniques: anybody posted on this before?

 

I got this from supermotocanada.com

 

 

There's one more thing to talk about now and that's how to stick your foot out while cornering. Yes, I know it seems stupid but there are a couple of things to remember if you do it. The first thing is not to dig your foot into the floor as you corner - your foot should be above the surface and only touch down if the bike slides. You also want to make absolutely certain that your foot is pointing the same way you're travelling, which is the same direction your front wheel is pointing. If you do have a slide you want your foot to kick the bike up, but you also want your leg to only move in its natural plain of travel. If your foot's pointing slightly sideways then, if you're unlucky, your foot could grip the surface and twist in an unnatural direction that can end in anything from a sore ankle or knee to utterly shattering your leg. And because the break's caused by a sideways force you're not just looking at a bad break, but a spiral break which is the type of injury that almost cost multi World GP500 Champion Mick Doohan his leg. And don't forget to make sure your toes are hard against the engine casings when you put your foot back on the pegs as you don't want them digging into the tarmac if you loose control just after the apex or if you hit one of the conveniently placed tire/hay bale walls as this could also result in your foot being spun sideways with the same possible results as mentioned above."

 

Just knee down road race style. If the bike slides, push the bike back up again using your knee to prop and the knee sliders.

 

But if you do conitnue to go down and lose it... because of the knee down method, your lower body will be pulled clear of the bike as it slides off the track, with very little chance of your foot being caught and dragged along. Let the handlebar go and you will be sliding along on your butt in a sitting position next to your bike.

 

Tested and proven method coz I have lowsided on a motard 14 times already on the tracks.

 

But if you insist on doing the dirt bike style of leg out... make sure your boots are supermotard boots. Supermotard boots differ from normal dirt boots in that they have a hard plastic sole which is very slippery to walk on. The hard plastic sole allows you to put alot of weight on it but still continue sliding.

 

If you use a motocross type boots with soft rubber soles, putting your foot down on the track at high speed will result in an instant grab which will yank your foot in the opposite direction of your slide.

Edited May 13, 2010 by Raptor

[biting_point]

Tested and proven method coz I have lowsided on a motard 14 times already on the tracks.

 

yupzz... done that 3 times too.. the last one was at Malacca..

 

pick up and continue!!!