[Group] SBF Yamaha Spark135

[Ah_Ben]

Repairs done... but at a whopping 1480.

lol

[FTW]

Anyone keen in changing the front brake hose to venhill?

80 bucks per piece.

Comment if cheap or expensive please. I haven't do market research yet.

 

Price is acceptable. Save a lil more and go for Swageline by Plot, found at Motoworld which IMO is the best.

 

Repairs done... but at a whopping 1480.

lol

 

SGD or RM? Care to list down the items changed?

[Ah_Ben]

SGD or RM? Care to list down the items changed?

 

SGD lah. Personally, I feel going to JB is a chore.

 

Erm... items changed covers 2 pages of the job sheet.

Like Crankcase, Crankcase cover, Crankshaft, Crankcase Number engraving, Conrod, Engine Block, Piston, Piston pin, Piston Ring, Gaskets, Bearings, Spark Plug, EO, Coolant, Front Brake Switch, etc. Also change the clutch plates since everything was stripped.

 

Of course I ask them help me go inspection also since they are at it.

 

Basically, a new engine less the top and gears in the gearbox.

[Ah_Ben]

Anyone keen in changing the front brake hose to venhill?

80 bucks per piece.

Comment if cheap or expensive please. I haven't do market research yet.

 

Price is acceptable. Save a lil more and go for Swageline by Plot, found at Motoworld which IMO is the best.

 

Those serious, kindly PM and I'll consolidate the order before submitting. I'm getting the blue as mine is going 4 years so gonna change it. Do note price does not include installation thou.

[FTW]

SGD lah. Personally, I feel going to JB is a chore.

 

Erm... items changed covers 2 pages of the job sheet.

Like Crankcase, Crankcase cover, Crankshaft, Crankcase Number engraving, Conrod, Engine Block, Piston, Piston pin, Piston Ring, Gaskets, Bearings, Spark Plug, EO, Coolant, Front Brake Switch, etc. Also change the clutch plates since everything was stripped.

 

Of course I ask them help me go inspection also since they are at it.

 

Basically, a new engine less the top and gears in the gearbox.

 

Good to know that they got those done without any delay, or is it still in the shop?

 

So, on stock bore or the usual 57mm?

 

Those serious, kindly PM and I'll consolidate the order before submitting. I'm getting the blue as mine is going 4 years so gonna change it. Do note price does not include installation thou.

 

All the best, most of the regulars from here have already changed.

[bam-bino]

So, on stock bore or the usual 57mm?

 

57mm? 81mm laa seyyyy...... Baru shiok! Ada fight...

 

 

 

Sent from Belakang icebox rumah Makcik Keropokâ„¢

[FTW]

57mm? 81mm laa seyyyy...... Baru shiok! Ada fight...

 

 

 

Sent from Belakang icebox rumah Makcik Keropokâ„¢

 

67mm bore with 6mm upstroke on the rod any day ~

[Ah_Ben]

57mm only. Me no lacer plus me is chicken, dun dare go fast fast.

 

Usual stuff, compared to the other spankers here i suppose.

[FTW]

57mm only. Me no lacer plus me is chicken, dun dare go fast fast.

 

Usual stuff, compared to the other spankers here i suppose.

 

Last i saw you, you were going quite fast and you did admit whacking your bike.

 

Spankers name R.I.P bro due to childish behavior by someone, copyright issues uh.

[Ah_Ben]

67mm bore with 6mm upstroke on the rod any day ~

 

Intake Stroke, Compression Stroke, Combustion Stoke, Exhaust Stroke.

 

Higher Upstroke = Higher Compression. I personally have very bad experience with this as my first spark keeps breaking the exhaust valve. (Bad Mechanic I guess)

 

To full utilise the engine, I approach from a different angle by having a higher octane fuel with a more precise spark plug firing. To time the ignition of the mixture when the compression stroke is as close to Top Dead Centre as possible.

 

Higher Octane means fuel is less prone to burning. (Not to be confused with ignition) With a higher octane fuel means the fuel mixture (petrol & air) that goes into the cylinder is less prone to succumb to the extreme heat in the chamber and only allow to be ignite by the spark plug. Thus more precision firing of the engine. Those who have been to high altitude area will notice the available octane level at pump stations might be as low as 89, this is due to the "thin" air in higher altitudes.

[Ah_Ben]

Last i saw you, you were going quite fast and you did admit whacking your bike.

 

Spankers name R.I.P bro due to childish behavior by someone, copyright issues uh.

 

Nevertheless, me still chicken... How I see the big boys going down the long front straight at full bore and only braking after the 150 marker before entering turn 1... Super Respect.

[duo]

57mm? 81mm laa seyyyy...... Baru shiok! Ada fight...

 

 

 

Sent from Belakang icebox rumah Makcik Keropokâ„¢

Fierce. I hope you get the original made in Indonesia one later Mr Yamaha unfriend you.

[FTW]

Nevertheless, me still chicken... How I see the big boys going down the long front straight at full bore and only braking after the 150 marker before entering turn 1... Super Respect.

 

:thumb:

 

Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk

[h4hahak1m]

Intake Stroke, Compression Stroke, Combustion Stoke, Exhaust Stroke.

 

Higher Upstroke = Higher Compression. I personally have very bad experience with this as my first spark keeps breaking the exhaust valve. (Bad Mechanic I guess)

 

To full utilise the engine, I approach from a different angle by having a higher octane fuel with a more precise spark plug firing. To time the ignition of the mixture when the compression stroke is as close to Top Dead Centre as possible.

 

Higher Octane means fuel is less prone to burning. (Not to be confused with ignition) With a higher octane fuel means the fuel mixture (petrol & air) that goes into the cylinder is less prone to succumb to the extreme heat in the chamber and only allow to be ignite by the spark plug. Thus more precision firing of the engine. Those who have been to high altitude area will notice the available octane level at pump stations might be as low as 89, this is due to the "thin" air in higher altitudes.

 

Higher upstroke doesn't mean higher compression. The compression ratio is determined by the [Volume of AF mixture @ BDC] : [Volume of AF mixture @ TDC]. Example, volume at TDC is 10cc, so naturally the volume at BDC would naturally be volume of TDC, plus vol of cylinder, let's say 100cc. The CR would then be [100+10] : [10], which is 11:1. Then we take the same cylinder, with a different head, which has a volume of 20cc, so the CR would be [100+20] : [20], which is 6:1. See how the volume in the head affects the compression ratio?

 

Long ago when they designed the Internal Combustion Engine, pistons were flat and the cutout shape of the head was basically a dome. So they found out that a higher compression ratio equates to better combustion, but too high a CR would incur problems such as knocking, or pre-detonation where the AF mixture ignites before the spark plug is fired. so to speak. How they went around increasing the compression ratio was by increasing the height of the piston (then came about high compression done pistons) and through the use of squish bands.

 

A squish band can be seen on the first picture here, which is a piston at TDC. What it basically does, like i said, is to reduce the volume at TDC, rather than just a plain old dome. The picture shows a 2 stroke head which is easier to understand, rather than a 4 stroke head which is more complicated with valves and stuff.

 

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/h4hahak1m/squish1.jpg

 

Now imagine a head with just a dome, without the squish band, the volume would be more right? So follow the equation on top, you'd see that be reducing the volume via squish band would yield a higher CR. Another way would be to increase the dome on the piston, to "fill" the volume of the head. Like you can see in the picture below, the piston on the left is a stock and the one on the right is a higher compression piston. That's a K20A piston fyi. Mmm.

 

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/h4hahak1m/htup_0511_22_ok24_engine_block_k20_cylinder_head_buildpiston_comparison.jpg

 

Again, imagine using that squish band picture on top, you increase the height of the piston. Isn't it decreasing the volume at TDC?

 

Then again, to run high compression ratios would incur problems such as knocking or pre-det like i mentioned earlier. An easy way to solve this would be to run fuels of higher octane. The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites. Layman terms, lower octane fuels can handle lower compression before igniting.

 

Then we come to ignition timing. To make more power, we usually advance ignition timing. Ignition timing is the point where the spark plug fires in the whole 2/4 stroke engine cycle. The reason is simple. Fuel and air needs time to burn, and in the internal combustion engine, fuel and air is used to create controlled "explosions" to propel the piston down, to create motion. Getting a firing point at tdc is fine, but it won't make power. We advance ignition timing so that the spark ignites before TDC. Why? So it has time to burn before it reaches TDC, where it propels the piston down. If you ignite at TDC, the mixture will start burning at TDC and "explode" somewhere on the way down, so you're wasting that "explosive power" to propel the piston down. Advance ignition timing too much and you get knocking, or pre-det like i said on top. This can cause serious damage to the engine. So this is where engine management comes into play. We use CDIs or ECUs to control ignition timing. These gadgets come with maps that set ignition points on the stroke cycle. It depends on the maps but general rule is, the higher the RPMs are, the more advanced the ignition point is. This is because, like i said, fuel and air needs time to burn, so the faster the engine goes, the sooner you need to ignite to maximise that "explosive" power. Maps vary, and different maps can give different amounts of power at different points of the RPM range.

 

A simpler way to advance the ignition timing but still using the same map would be to reposition the stator coil near the magnet. This is the "sensor" that tells the CDI where the engine is on the stroke cycle. It's that small black thing that's near the magnet. 4 stroke bikes don't do this, it's usually done on 2 strokes, and this is done in degrees. Same principal, too advance and ignition timing you get knocking, too retard you don't make power.

 

So mr ben, higher upstroke doesn't necessarily mean higher compression. And to everyone else, higher octane does not make more power or save more fuel. There's a recommended octane level for all vehicles. Dyno testing has been done and it's proven that the engine loses power when using fuel with an octane level too high. Put it simply, you don't put high octane race fuel into a stock engine and expect more power. There's still alot more we can learn everyday, even me

 

Nevertheless, me still chicken... How I see the big boys going down the long front straight at full bore and only braking after the 150 marker before entering turn 1... Super Respect.

 

Yes that one, respect.

[FTW]

Higher upstroke doesn't mean higher compression. The compression ratio is determined by the [Volume of AF mixture @ BDC] : [Volume of AF mixture @ TDC]. Example, volume at TDC is 10cc, so naturally the volume at BDC would naturally be volume of TDC, plus vol of cylinder, let's say 100cc. The CR would then be [100+10] : [10], which is 11:1. Then we take the same cylinder, with a different head, which has a volume of 20cc, so the CR would be [100+20] : [20], which is 6:1. See how the volume in the head affects the compression ratio?

 

Long ago when they designed the Internal Combustion Engine, pistons were flat and the cutout shape of the head was basically a dome. So they found out that a higher compression ratio equates to better combustion, but too high a CR would incur problems such as knocking, or pre-detonation where the AF mixture ignites before the spark plug is fired. so to speak. How they went around increasing the compression ratio was by increasing the height of the piston (then came about high compression done pistons) and through the use of squish bands.

 

A squish band can be seen on the first picture here, which is a piston at TDC. What it basically does, like i said, is to reduce the volume at TDC, rather than just a plain old dome. The picture shows a 2 stroke head which is easier to understand, rather than a 4 stroke head which is more complicated with valves and stuff.

 

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/h4hahak1m/squish1.jpg

 

Now imagine a head with just a dome, without the squish band, the volume would be more right? So follow the equation on top, you'd see that be reducing the volume via squish band would yield a higher CR. Another way would be to increase the dome on the piston, to "fill" the volume of the head. Like you can see in the picture below, the piston on the left is a stock and the one on the right is a higher compression piston. That's a K20A piston fyi. Mmm.

 

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/h4hahak1m/htup_0511_22_ok24_engine_block_k20_cylinder_head_buildpiston_comparison.jpg

 

Again, imagine using that squish band picture on top, you increase the height of the piston. Isn't it decreasing the volume at TDC?

 

Then again, to run high compression ratios would incur problems such as knocking or pre-det like i mentioned earlier. An easy way to solve this would be to run fuels of higher octane. The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites. Layman terms, lower octane fuels can handle lower compression before igniting.

 

Then we come to ignition timing. To make more power, we usually advance ignition timing. Ignition timing is the point where the spark plug fires in the whole 2/4 stroke engine cycle. The reason is simple. Fuel and air needs time to burn, and in the internal combustion engine, fuel and air is used to create controlled "explosions" to propel the piston down, to create motion. Getting a firing point at tdc is fine, but it won't make power. We advance ignition timing so that the spark ignites before TDC. Why? So it has time to burn before it reaches TDC, where it propels the piston down. If you ignite at TDC, the mixture will start burning at TDC and "explode" somewhere on the way down, so you're wasting that "explosive power" to propel the piston down. Advance ignition timing too much and you get knocking, or pre-det like i said on top. This can cause serious damage to the engine. So this is where engine management comes into play. We use CDIs or ECUs to control ignition timing. These gadgets come with maps that set ignition points on the stroke cycle. It depends on the maps but general rule is, the higher the RPMs are, the more advanced the ignition point is. This is because, like i said, fuel and air needs time to burn, so the faster the engine goes, the sooner you need to ignite to maximise that "explosive" power. Maps vary, and different maps can give different amounts of power at different points of the RPM range.

 

A simpler way to advance the ignition timing but still using the same map would be to reposition the stator coil near the magnet. This is the "sensor" that tells the CDI where the engine is on the stroke cycle. It's that small black thing that's near the magnet. 4 stroke bikes don't do this, it's usually done on 2 strokes, and this is done in degrees. Same principal, too advance and ignition timing you get knocking, too retard you don't make power.

 

So mr ben, higher upstroke doesn't necessarily mean higher compression. And to everyone else, higher octane does not make more power or save more fuel. There's a recommended octane level for all vehicles. Dyno testing has been done and it's proven that the engine loses power when using fuel with an octane level too high. Put it simply, you don't put high octane race fuel into a stock engine and expect more power. There's still alot more we can learn everyday, even me

 

 

 

Yes that one, respect.

 

Thank you!! Hehehehee.

 

Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk

[Ah_Ben]

h4hahak1m, detail explanation is always very much appreciated. I believe it gives reader lots of knowledge which is usually the purpose of a forum.

 

My bad for not stating the fine prints and I had assume in my previous post was based on if all conditions remains the same but only with an increased in upstroke. Won't that increase compression ratio?

A+X:X where

A is cylinder volume (constant value)

X is a decreasing value. (vol at TDC)

 

With regards to the piston head/crown/top, this I must concur that it has advanced to another level of technology. Some with circular grooves / dimpled impressions which "GENERALLY" increases combustion efficiency because of managing the incoming airflow. Some with protrusion which "GENERALLY" give higher compression.

 

If we drill down to just the piston, "I" would be looking at 3 basic and 1 advance aspect.

 

Basic

Construction basically looks at materials used in making the piston. Generally playing around with amount of silicone content mixture. Weight and Thermal Management and often key in this phrase. Looking at reducing expansion, managing inertia.

Design is what's all the discussion as above. Basically getting a good air and fuel mix for efficient combustion. Moving the mixture closer to the plug for easier ignition. Reducing the distance between tip of plug and furthest pocket of mixture that needs to be burnt. Reducing events of uneven combustion / detonation of the mixture and better heat distribution.

Coating is self explanatory but benefits include increased power, reduced emissions, better response and resistance to failures.

 

Advance

Being the ability to comprehend the 3 basic and applying it to a street vehicle or a primary race vehicle. Reality is often hurting but common users often are looking at a dual street/track vehicle. Looking at a combination of torque, power, efficiency, resistance and reliability.

 

 

Of course than again, one thing leads to another and maybe we'll then switch to another topic like piston ring, coefficient and correlation of the piston to the cylinder (Engine Block).

 

I'm no guru but if anyone's keen to know more, I guess Google is everyone's best friend.

Edited May 18, 2012 by Ah_Ben

[Ah_Ben]

Damn the double posting!!

Edited May 18, 2012 by Ah_Ben

[kaii69]

Anyone can teach me? Which brand de big bore better?

And among all street legal is yoshi de best? And does swage do de brake hose

Specially for spark?

[charlxx]

$170++ to fix a damage fork? Or shop trying to carrot me?

[kaii69]

Good to know that they got those done without any delay, or is it still in the shop?

 

So, on stock bore or the usual 57mm?

 

 

 

All the best, most of the regulars from here have already changed.

 

BRO u said de swage got do for spark? use which bike de for it? cos i cannot find haha

[sparkz83]

$170++ to fix a damage fork? Or shop trying to carrot me?

 

what happen to your fork ? try getting quote from other shops and dan compare ?

[leman]

Spankers name R.I.P bro due to childish behavior by someone, copyright issues uh.

 

lanchiao to that person u noe. puuuiiiikkkk.. lack of parental love i guess.. all efforts down the drain.. sial.. lol...

[baojian1990]

hello guys~ let me know if i am doing to correct way ,

i run in on the factory enginer oil for 500km(below 100km/h & not to drag gear) then i change to mineral engine to run in for another 500km(can start to drag abit and whack the bike often to loosen up engine part) then change to fully synetic oic n change the oil at every 3000km??

i have been pumping V power for me bike ever since i took the bike. if anything i said is wrong pls correct me n i can i change my tires after my 500km mark to battlex?? wat is the best fully synetic engine for our spark??

[Ah_Ben]

hello guys~ let me know if i am doing to correct way ,

i run in on the factory enginer oil for 500km(below 100km/h & not to drag gear) then i change to mineral engine to run in for another 500km(can start to drag abit and whack the bike often to loosen up engine part) then change to fully synetic oic n change the oil at every 3000km??

i have been pumping V power for me bike ever since i took the bike. if anything i said is wrong pls correct me n i can i change my tires after my 500km mark to battlex?? wat is the best fully synetic engine for our spark??

 

Kindly read the owner manual prior to operation the machine. It will teach you how to run in your engine as well as periodical preventive measures required for your motorcycle. It will even state the requirements/specification of the engine oil, fuel and etc.

 

Engine Oil:

Type: SAE20W40 or SAE20W50

Recommended engine oil grade: API service SF, SG type or higher. JASO MA

 

The owner manual is usual found in the storage compartment within the motorcycle. Alternatively, you may download a copy from the below link.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/24733157/Yamaha-T135-Owners-Manual

[charlxx]

what happen to your fork ? try getting quote from other shops and dan compare ?

 

I kiss a taxi backside, so the fork went in. Unable to ride to other shop to get a quote.