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Posted
thank u madman for the reply man. cuz i jus now abit as though at wits end. esp i got sth impt tmr. so i presume it is safe for me to tune down the carb abit and cont for riding temporaily and not send to service IMMEDIATELY right? thanks.

 

yes it is ok to tune it down. tune down too much idling, engine go to sleep. then tune up abit more will do, you can hear from engine sound one la.

 

this thing of your ride not starting is not a major repair... dun tink too much.

 

most is change battery (take the dry cell type so no need top up water etc, easy maintenance) or worst wiring problem which cause batt to go flat (will need time to rectify for this, but nothing major, only headache for mech). lastly, can be battery not charging (sorry, 4got name of part that charge up batt, too late, brain not working now).

http://www.nutrition4u.sg/images/coaches/VicNette02.jpg

 

Contact me at 9858 6442 (madman) 9845 6442 (Babycakes)

Visit me at www.Fat2FitChallenge.com or add me in FB nutrition4u.sg

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Posted

recently experienced this problem...

 

my signal light dun blink, even though i just changed my blinker relay like lass than a month ago...

 

usually after parking, i will just turn e key to off e lights n engine... but today, when i turn e key, only lights when out, engine still on! had to use e engine stop button to stop it...

 

hope u guys have an explanation or solution... :) thanks in advance bros... :)

Posted
recently experienced this problem...

 

my signal light dun blink, even though i just changed my blinker relay like lass than a month ago...

 

usually after parking, i will just turn e key to off e lights n engine... but today, when i turn e key, only lights when out, engine still on! had to use e engine stop button to stop it...

 

hope u guys have an explanation or solution... :) thanks in advance bros... :)

 

hmmm....most likely is the ignition switch, try turning on the switch and start the bike, if it can be started but no lights or whatsoever being able to turn on then its confirm the ignition key switch spoilt or no contact....

Go as far as you can see; when you get there, you'll be able to see farther.

J. P. Morgan

Posted

Hi,

I went to the FNO after getting my bike last mth and everyone adviced on changing the stock horn to louder ones. So I bought a pair and got everything fixed up except for the power supply wire leading to relay pin 30. I've searched the past posts but can't find where to tap the power source.

Help anyone?

Pl lemme know where exactly to lead the wire from, cos I'm new to bike.

TIA!

Posted
Hi,

I went to the FNO after getting my bike last mth and everyone adviced on changing the stock horn to louder ones. So I bought a pair and got everything fixed up except for the power supply wire leading to relay pin 30. I've searched the past posts but can't find where to tap the power source.

Help anyone?

Pl lemme know where exactly to lead the wire from, cos I'm new to bike.

TIA!

 

I used the old wires leading to the old stock horn.

Motorcyclist are the nicest people on the road, try not to kill us.

Posted
Hi,

I went to the FNO after getting my bike last mth and everyone adviced on changing the stock horn to louder ones. So I bought a pair and got everything fixed up except for the power supply wire leading to relay pin 30. I've searched the past posts but can't find where to tap the power source.

Help anyone?

Pl lemme know where exactly to lead the wire from, cos I'm new to bike.

TIA!

 

if u had stock horns, u sld only have 2 wires which is only enough for 1 horn is tt right? since each horn will need 2 wires, 2 horns will need 4, dont tink there sld be any remaining

Posted

I followed nuttybing's relay diagram. The 2 stock horn wires went to relay pin 85 & 86, and splitted a pair of outlet from pin 87 to the 2 new horns. Grounded the horns to the mounting point.

Last remaining pin 30 requires power source, but I don't know where to tap this power from. At this setup when I press the horn button, I can hear a click sound.

So meanwhile, while the new horn is not in working order yet, I'm still plug into the stock horn which I didn't remove.

Posted
I followed nuttybing's relay diagram. The 2 stock horn wires went to relay pin 85 & 86, and splitted a pair of outlet from pin 87 to the 2 new horns. Grounded the horns to the mounting point.

Last remaining pin 30 requires power source, but I don't know where to tap this power from. At this setup when I press the horn button, I can hear a click sound.

So meanwhile, while the new horn is not in working order yet, I'm still plug into the stock horn which I didn't remove.

 

for the primary power connector (30), draw the power from your fusebox.

 

connect in this manner:

 

fusebox (live) >>> a fuse >>> relay pin 30

 

:cheers:

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted
Hi Victor,

Tis Jack.

Where is the fusebox?

 

the right rear chrome cover, where your toolkit is supposed to be... the fuse box is separated into red zone (live) and black zone (neutral)... just be careful not to touch both zones at the same time...

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted
Thanks man. Is there any particular wire I'm suppose to tap from? Or any wire that is no-go ?

 

try to tap directly from the fuse box... horn wire is the wire carrying the greatest current in the entire bike... connected wires or wires that are too thin might result in fire...

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted
Ok, will go get it done now. Will Post the outcome later. Thanks for your help!

 

have fun with your DIY! :cheeky:

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted

Bought a 2nd hand TA200 here early this month.

Just overhauled it yesterday at Lim Ah Boy shop.

 

Pricelist:

 

Wide Crashbar with mounting points for spotlights - $65

Large EVO box - $80

Air filter - $10

Rear brake plate w/ pad - $28 (originally $56, promotion sets left few only)

Rear brake pad - $15

Gold chain, front & rear honda sprockets - $120

A pair of rear eagle footrest - $30

Engine oil - 2 x $8 (used 1 and 1/4 bottle)

OGK Rain coat - $70

 

The same type of engine oil selling $8 at LAB is selling RM19 at M'sia.

LAB's price really comparable with M'sia. :thumb:

 

Learnt from LAB technicians that this bike need to change 4T oil at 1000+-2000 km or else the engine can't last long, may jam like the one I saw there under repairing. The whole engine of the bike was removed out.

Posted

Forget to add:

 

Stebel Electric horn with nice hidden installation under front chrome cover- $25

Posted
Bought a 2nd hand TA200 here early this month.

Just overhauled it yesterday at Lim Ah Boy shop.

 

Pricelist:

 

Wide Crashbar with mounting points for spotlights - $65

Large EVO box - $80

Air filter - $10

Rear brake plate w/ pad - $28 (originally $56, promotion sets left few only)

Rear brake pad - $15

Gold chain, front & rear honda sprockets - $120

A pair of rear eagle footrest - $30

Engine oil - 2 x $8 (used 1 and 1/4 bottle)

OGK Rain coat - $70

 

The same type of engine oil selling $8 at LAB is selling RM19 at M'sia.

LAB's price really comparable with M'sia. :thumb:

 

Learnt from LAB technicians that this bike need to change 4T oil at 1000+-2000 km or else the engine can't last long, may jam like the one I saw there under repairing. The whole engine of the bike was removed out.

 

huh... I only see a list of replacement items... not overhaul...

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted

The horn is now working! & very loud too! Thanks Vic, for the quick replies!

 

I also "discover" the pack of tools hidden in the tiny compartment, thick with ancient dust.

 

Next mod thinking of wider handle bars, cos it gives the impression of a more relax riding position. But got a bit doubt, don't know whether I can handle the bike after that. Anybody has experience on the handling after changing?

Posted

i figured out why i take out key e engine wont stop, cause on e left chrome cover underneath got one wire disconnected... haha... connect back then its ok now...

 

i got another qn... i fixed LED n some spotlights... i connected e red wire to the red wire under e left chrome cover then e black wire i connect to my bike... so now even when my key not connected, i can off n on e lights... where should i connect so that e lights can only b off n on when i switch on e key? thank u... :)

Posted

i suggest irc fire edition for your rear tires.. using almost a year. Nr skid before..

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad44/jtzx/Image0020_JROT42b4_edited.gif?t=1246004022

Posted
The horn is now working! & very loud too! Thanks Vic, for the quick replies!

 

I also "discover" the pack of tools hidden in the tiny compartment, thick with ancient dust.

 

Next mod thinking of wider handle bars, cos it gives the impression of a more relax riding position. But got a bit doubt, don't know whether I can handle the bike after that. Anybody has experience on the handling after changing?

 

wide handle is not a problem definitely..

mine's very wide, nd its super comfy otr..

first u turn might be alil problem only, tht's if you'r using my kinda handlebar, th wide-ness..

 

oh yes... wide handlebars are sooo comfortable... it felt really awkward for me when I ride a stock phantom nowadays... :cheeky:

 

dun worry about the handling... you will get used to it real quickly :smile:

 

i figured out why i take out key e engine wont stop, cause on e left chrome cover underneath got one wire disconnected... haha... connect back then its ok now...

 

i got another qn... i fixed LED n some spotlights... i connected e red wire to the red wire under e left chrome cover then e black wire i connect to my bike... so now even when my key not connected, i can off n on e lights... where should i connect so that e lights can only b off n on when i switch on e key? thank u... :)

 

yes it is best that you tap the LED's power from the taillight... so your primary light switch on the left side of your handlebar can control all the lights on your bike... and... itchy fingers won't be able to switch on your LED when you are away from the bike...

 

:cheers:

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted

irc tires are actually quite gd... been riding on bad condition roads in jurong island and such but it works fine... some say it was made for thailand roads... so need to be tough

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