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Posted

any kind souls out there to teach me for bumpy course?

tips i mean.

 

):

it's killing me.

though i went thru once only.

it felt as if i've 10more lessons for bumpy course before i could pass. :cry:

18th June 2008 (2B)

21st April 2009 (3)

4th August 2009 (2A)

28th September 2010 (2)

 

with what you've put me through, still i love you.

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Posted

first learn to stand up properly on the bike first, maybe don't try with the bumps first, just stand up and ride around

 

instructor will usually teach you the throttle and brake method... that one i find impossible to do cause every time i open throttle somehow i open it too much then the bike has too much power and goes like bumpbumpbumpbump :cheeky:

 

if it's hard for you to do with that method, why don't you try using the clutch only instead? use the clutch to cut off the engine (not clutch in totally, instead just bring it to a bit before biting point) before you reach the bump, then clutch out a bit to give your bike a bit of power to clear the bump, once bump is cleared clutch back to before biting point again. so the bike sounds a bit like vroom.... vroom.... vroom

 

not sure whether its clear or not from this explanation... but it's very hard to explain la... need to show then it's easier to understand... maybe can ask the instructors if they can show you how to use clutch for bumpy course...

boring rider. with a boring bike.

too old to want to appear interesting anymore.

Posted

just wondering how come bumpy course is only for class 2a and above? does this mean that class 2b riders never face this kind of situation after passing? hmmm...

http://simonnunis.smugmug.com/photos/684724736_fuDoa-M-1.jpg
Posted

i would say if you keep to the singapore road you seldom find this kind of situation leh...

 

cause even if there's a plank in the road or what you will just stand up to keep your weight low and give it more gas right? you won't want to see how slow you can go over it leh...

 

and standing up and giving gas is way easier than going over slowly imo...

boring rider. with a boring bike.

too old to want to appear interesting anymore.

Posted

This was the course that gave me bruises for more than 2 months and made me repeat my lesson 1 six times :D

 

The following is from our in-house instructor Corse:

 

Technique invlovles 1stly, the right standing posture to balance the bike.

 

Lots of riders stands up with back side sticking out behind, and the body weight is on the foot rest. even though ur hanldebar is straight, if u shift ur weight slightly right of left, even ur head also move left or right, u will put some weight on one side of the foot rest and THAT will cause the handlebar to turn. Distribute ur weight some to the fuel tank. Lean ur body inclined forwars slightly, like as though ur whole body weight is supported on the fuel tank an handle. Example of weight disribution, Footpegs-25%, Fueltank-50%,handle bars-25%. NOT 80%-10%-10%.

 

2ndly, Timing of ur thottle brake and clutch. Use ur throttle and clutch when ur front tyres needs to move up the kerb. if u're fast enough, then its ok.

 

But my stlye is that, if there are 9 kerbs, i throttle up with releasing of clutch 9 times. After clearing the kerb, to slow down, u can pull clutch slight with some rear brake if necessary.

 

Too many riders when using the clutch, then to move it to release and pull too much. Try not to release the clutch fully then when u wanna slow down DONT pull in fully. it takes a longer time and harder to find the bititng point when u wanna release. even when u quickly release the clutch to find the biting point, the bike may jerk forward. Just pull and release and the biting area will be enough. About 1 - 2 cm of clutch level movement.

 

For class 2A should be easier, compared to Class 2.

For starters, go abit faster to feel the bumpy course and get momentum.

Sometimes after a while, u will natural learn how to go slower.

 

To me, posture and clutch control are very important. Get the posture right and you can stabilise the bike. Get the clutch control right and you can go over the bumps smoothly.

 

Good luck!

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/176/382836949_9f10369d74.jpg
Posted

you must hold tightly on the bike, and throttle to let the bike move forwards, just let it jerk and move up/down by holding tightly on the handlebar "full force" then u won't "skid"

 

another thing is position your bike correctly, must be very straight from first bump to last bump.

 

PS: I skidded once when it's raining, and position is not too straight.. damn.. I think I lost confident once I saw the instructor i disliked standing there

 

they don't really care about ur butt position (half standing) as long as they can see clearly u are not sitting.. :)

http://koenigsegg.hotcars4.us/wp-content/uploads/2007/06/stig1.gif

 

Class2,2A,2&3. Demerit 12 Pts.

2006-2008 -NSR150SP

2008-2009 -GRS400

2009-2012 -Piaggio X9

2012-Present-FZ16ST

Posted
This was the course that gave me bruises for more than 2 months and made me repeat my lesson 1 six times :D

 

The following is from our in-house instructor Corse:

 

 

 

To me, posture and clutch control are very important. Get the posture right and you can stabilise the bike. Get the clutch control right and you can go over the bumps smoothly.

 

Good luck!

 

thanks for the tips! :thumb:

-_-

Posted

bumpy course is one of my favourite....the tactic is that use half clutch all the way, no braking at all, if got no power open throttle a bit..go slow from start...lean forward a bit..

 

another tactic which i find useful, use your left thumb to support and gain control of your steering since left hand is half clutch all the way..all the best bro!

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/hafizjap/BannerFull--.jpg

 

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/hafizjap/bikecombine3.jpg

 

Remember with great power comes great responsibility and greater $$$

Posted
thanks for the tips! :thumb:

 

eh since when u taking 2a??

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/hafizjap/BannerFull--.jpg

 

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/hafizjap/bikecombine3.jpg

 

Remember with great power comes great responsibility and greater $$$

Posted
This was the course that gave me bruises for more than 2 months and made me repeat my lesson 1 six times :D

 

The following is from our in-house instructor Corse:

 

 

 

To me, posture and clutch control are very important. Get the posture right and you can stabilise the bike. Get the clutch control right and you can go over the bumps smoothly.

 

Good luck!

 

I was abt to look for my past post, but you've already found it. Thanks...

http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/625498_10151506336500777_489049580_n.jpg

 

Bikes Ridden & Riding Currently.

Yamaha YZF125 - 2001

Super 4 Spec II - 2002

Ducati S4 / Harley Softail - 2003

Ducati 999 / Ducati S4 / Harley Softail - 2006

Yamaha R1'09 / Ducati S4 / Harley Softail - 2009

+ Vespa LX150 - 2012

FJR1300A '13 / Vespa Lx150 / Ducati S4 / Harley Softail - 2013

Posted

excellent info sharing, only thing now is to keep it all i mind when i go for my lessons in a few months... heh...

 

coz used to the Phantom's riding position which does not allow me to stand up... beleive me, i've tried :p

Grounded... :/

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
This was the course that gave me bruises for more than 2 months and made me repeat my lesson 1 six times :D

 

The following is from our in-house instructor Corse:

 

 

 

To me, posture and clutch control are very important. Get the posture right and you can stabilise the bike. Get the clutch control right and you can go over the bumps smoothly.

 

Good luck!

 

 

Bumpy is the least of my problems after i adjusted my technique. just to give back a little to the community.

 

to add onto the great advice by others so far:

 

1. Weight distribution. tense your arms, throw your weight forward onto the fuel tank. Lock the steering. If you try to cross the hump anyway but straight, you may be thrown off balance.

 

2. Speed. i like to keep my foot on the rear brake, then hold half clutch and throttle over the humps. find that the bike is less jerky this way.

 

3. eye point. Maybe not important, but its helpful to me. I look at the hump, i usually fall down. Aim for the last hump, then when halfway thru, aim for the guard house.

 

 

good luck!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
excellent info sharing, only thing now is to keep it all i mind when i go for my lessons in a few months... heh...

 

coz used to the Phantom's riding position which does not allow me to stand up... beleive me, i've tried :p

 

Haha you can stand on a Phantom. Not a pretty sight though, and not easy to control.

  • 2 months later...
  • 9 months later...
Posted

felt very disheartened when i see all the various method. fail my tp today because of bumpy. if not its 4 pts!!!

class 2B : 27 November 2007

class 2A : 21 April 2009

class 2 : 21 October 2010

class 3 : 21 August 2007

 

 

"Change is a decision u make and not a thought in your mind"

 

" there can only be transformation when you have change your thoughts"

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