Lube your chain

adesmond2 · January 8, 2011

haha...you have miss the point....oilers do not cause the chains to rust...it is to provide lubrication to the chain.
so happen the lube is oil based
. thus will protect the chains from rusting..
it is common knowledge that after cleaning the chains...it mush be thoroughly cleaned with water..
not doing that as this case illustrate..the chain will rust horribly..
even the application of a commercial chain lube..rust still persist.

while using the oiler correctly ...the chains will not rust.
as the chains need not be cleaned with soap , solvent or degreaser...the rusting will not happen..

this case it rust because the degreaser drip on to the chains...and not immediately flush away..thus resulting in the chains rusting..PRECAUUTION MUST BE TAKEN WHEN CLEANING BIKE NEAR CHAINS AREA.

icic.. understood.. thanks bro for the explanation...

sorry for "misunderstanding"...

really wan to get.. but but.. something still pulling me back.. lolx..

Isopropyl · January 9, 2011

i remember once i lube my 2 rusted bicycle chain with engine oil and after awhile the rust reduced greatly. so i did the same thing with my motorcycle chain.

for the last few ride, i manually dose the chain heavily with engine oil right after riding while it warm. after a few times, the rust spot was gone:)

engine oil is loaded with detergent and rust inhibitant. work great to prevent and remove moderate rust. but if just using it manually, it will be better to use a thicker oil like gear lube. if using oiler, anything oil that suit your oiler will do.

not a big fan of spary lube but since i got a bottle at home, just trying to finish it up.

ezzyoiler · January 9, 2011

i remember once i lube my 2 rusted bicycle chain with engine oil and after awhile the rust reduced greatly. So i did the same thing with my motorcycle chain.

For the last few ride, i manually dose the chain heavily with engine oil right after riding while it warm. After a few times, the rust spot was gone:)

engine oil is loaded with detergent and rust inhibitant. Work great to prevent and remove moderate rust. But if just using it manually, it will be better to use a thicker oil like gear lube. If using oiler, anything oil that suit your oiler will do.

Not a big fan of spary lube but since i got a bottle at home, just trying to finish it up.

yeah...you have it ride there..100%.

One of my Friend ride was using this sticky chain lube..maxima spray lube.

The lube was doing great...except that it was so sticky...that oversprays end up as a hard crud over time...

Yesterday he tried cleaning it off..waoh..he cant get all off...thick patches of crud still around..

Anyway..he is using the ezzyoiler now...

His plan is TO use the throw off FROM THE EZZYOILER.. in the meantime to soften the crud..what a great idea.

ezzyoiler · February 24, 2011

interesting article..

intersting articleChain Maintenance...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain/IMG_6209.jpg

Let's face it, without your chain, you ain't going anywhere. So why, then, do we ignore our chains for so long? Chains have gotten so good over the past 10 years that it is easy to forget about them. But an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Which in motorcycling, an ounce of prevention can also be worth a pound of skin.

There are really two main types of chains: O-Ring chains and Non-O-Ring chains. O-Ring chains have, as you would guess, small O-Rings built into them. The O-Rings are used to keep grease and lube inside your chain (between all the moving parts). Non-O-Ring chains do not. Back in the day when O-Ring chains came out, many people believed the O-Rings created high levels of drag. However, that is not the case. A well-maintained O-Ring (X-ring, Y-ring etc) chain provides less drag, requires less maintenance, and lasts a heck of a lot longer.

It is important to remember that the purpose of an O-Ring chain is to keep the lubrication inside. So based on that, there is little you can do to keep your chain in top condition, right? Sorry, but O-Ring chains require attention just like everything else on your bike. A true sign of a squid is a dry, squeaking, rusty chain.

A chain that is ignored will eventually fail, typically by breaking. A broken chain will many times ball-up around the countershaft and front sprocket. When this happens, your chain will rip and tear its way through your soft aluminum motor and will always result in engine damage (either from the chain flailing around or from the motor coming to an immediate stop) Sometimes a chain will get caught in the rear wheel, resulting in an immediate rear wheel skid. Rarely, somebody will get lucky and the chain will fly off the bike without making contact with anything while the rider coasts to a stop (this is rare). In either case, you will be stranded. More than likely, you will have some damage, be it be minor or major.

So now that we've established chain maintenance is probably a good idea, where should we start? Like all things mechanical, let's start with lubrication. You should lube your chain every 500 miles of riding. There are many types of lube available; everything from basic wax, foaming wax, conventional lube to foaming conventional lube. Different lubes will provide different levels of fling and protection. Typically the more fling, the better protection and the less fling the less protection. The hard part is deciding what level of fling/protection you want to deal with. The less fling, the more frequently you'll have to lube. -----

this i s where the oiler is so superior..

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain-lube.jpgWhen your chain is without lube, it will build up a lot of heat and result in the chain stretching. Without lube, your O-Ring will also be exposed to the harmful ozone and ultraviolet rays, causing them to dry out, crack, and even fall off.

It is important (with O-Ring chains) to always lube your chain immediately after riding, while the chain is warm. Remember how we talked about how O-Ring chains keep the lube inside the chain? Well, lubing your chain while still hot will cause the lube to be drawn into the chain as it cools. Also, remember that chain lube's primary job is to lube between the chain and the sprockets.

Also, you need to lube your chain in two locations. Spray the majority of the lube on the inside of the chain. This helps prevent fling and will force lube into the chain when you are riding. You also need to spray lube directly onto the O-Rings. The best way to do this is at the rear sprocket, spinning the wheel as you go. Avoid the temptation to prop the bike up on the track stand or center stand, start the bike, put it in first gear while the rear wheel is in the air, and spray as the motor moves the rear wheel. The number of fingers claimed by this exercise is astonishing and a quick search on the Internet will reveal images of people who have lost their fingers doing this (not just dummies, but experienced motorcycle mechanics). It is much better and safer to do it the hard way, with the motor off and the bike in neutral.

If you do this regularly, your chain will keep a high level of lubrication but will also draw a lot of dirt and you'll end up with a really dirty-looking chain. Dirt, as I'm sure you can imagine, is very bad for a chain. A good idea is, every 3000 miles or whenever you change your oil, to clean your chain. The easiest way to clean your chain is with a rag, a toothbrush, and kerosene.

Don't use harsh solvents, like gasoline, because they can ruin the O-Rings. Spray or wipe your chain with kerosene. The best part about using kerosene is that it will clean your chain amazingly quick, saving you lots of time. I usually use an old rag and soak it with kerosene and wipe it over the chain until the chain is clean. Incidentally, kerosene can be found at any department store, usually in the camping section. Its traditionally used to run camp-stoves, lanterns and stoves. But be prepared to spend $5.00 for a 10-year supply. After about 20 minutes you will have an immaculately clean chain and an amazingly filthy rag.

CAUTION: Be sure you get "kerosene" - not camp fuel or white gas. Camp fuel and white gas comes in the same can as kerosene but it is extremely volatile and will ignite astonishingly easy. Be double and triple sure the can says "Kerosene". Don't trust the store clerk either, if it doesn't say kerosene it is most likely white fuel and that is very dangerous.

Its also a really great idea to remove the countershaft sprocket cover and clean all the excess lube build-up that is around the front sprocket. If you let this stuff build up it can cause problems that you probably do not want to ever deal with.

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain-adjust.jpgYour chain also needs to be adjusted properly. Of course, your owner's manual will have exact requirements for your bike, but the rule of thumb is about 1 to 1.5 inches of slack. But what does that mean and why is that important? Slack is how much the chain will move up and down freely at a point halfway between the two sprockets.

You need slack because as your swingarm moves up to compress for a bump, the chain gets tighter. When a chain is too tight, it will bind on the sprockets, causing quicker wear of both chain and sprockets. A tight chain will also, over time, ruin your countershaft and your countershaft seal (the seal around the shaft that carries the front sprocket) and may even bend the countershaft. Also, a tight chain is more likely to develop tight spots. Tight spots are portions of the chain that stretch at different rates and cause binding between links. So, why not just run the chain really loose? Well, too loose and the chain runs the risk of flying off the sprockets. Bad news! Also, too loose causes a lot of slop in the driveline. Example: twist the throttle, short delay, then lurching as the chain snaps tight, then loose until you are under heavy acceleration. Chain adjustments are very important, even though it may not be something you need to do very often.

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain/IMG_6207.jpgIf your chain requires adjustment, your owner's manual will have the information you need to tighten/loosen it as there are many different types of adjustment. You will probably need to start by loosening the axle to allow the wheel to move. Then you can turn the adjuster screws, Â¼ turn at a time, until you reach the proper adjustment. I like to turn the left one, and then turn the right one the same distance to maintain wheel alignment.

When you achieve proper slack, you need to make sure the wheel alignment is still correct. If the wheel is crooked in the swingarm, your chain and sprockets will wear really rapidly and you can even get into strange handling characteristics. There are two ways to measure alignment. You can grab a flexible tape measure (like what tailors use) and measure from the center of your axle to the center of the swingarm pivot. Or you can string your bike up. Stringing requires you to get a really long piece of string and wrap it around the front tire. Then pull the lengths of string back toward the rear wheel. You can then use your calibrated eyeball to compare the strings with the alignment of the wheels. If your wheel is out of alignment, it will be pretty obvious. I have had a lot of success using the tape measure method. I think it's quicker and more accurate.

After you are confident with your alignment, tighten everything up and check the slack again. Most bikes will to tighten chain slack when everything is snugged back down. So I have to set the chain really loose so when I torque everything down the chain is set properly.

But how do you know when your chain needs to be replaced? If you go to your rear sprocket and pull straight back on the chain, you'll be heading in the right direction. If your chain pulls away from the sprockets by much, it is probably stretched out. If the chain does not pull away and stays right on the sprocket, then the chain is not stretched out yet. Also, if your sprockets no longer look like points but a bunch of little hooks you need to replace it all.

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain-wear.jpgWhile we are on the subject of chains, a very popular upgrade is to lower the gearing to make the bike quicker off the line at the cost of top speed. The quickest and easiest way to lower gearing is to buy a front sprocket with one less tooth. Simply replacing the front doesn't require a new chain and will cost about $14.00 to do. However, the disadvantages of doing this are pretty significant. First, if you are not replacing your chain at the same time, it will lengthen your wheelbase; that's not such a big deal. But the biggest problem with dropping a tooth in front is you put a lot more torque on your countershaft. Possibly resulting in a ruined seal or worse, a bent countershaft ($$$ expensive $$$). I know of more than one TLS/TLR out there that bent countershafts within 50 miles of dropping to a smaller front sprocket - so this is likely more of an issue with high-torque motors. So the likelihood of this happening depends on how dramatic the change is and the characteristics of the motor, but its good to be aware of this before making any decisions. We strongly feel that the best way to lower gearing is to add teeth to the rear sprocket. Depending on how dramatic of a change you want, you will probably need a new chain. Usually, you increase four teeth in the rear to equal dropping one tooth in the front (but that varies greatly depending on what your stock gearing is). By changing rear sprockets, you have more control. You can go up any number of teeth to get the result you want. I have typically only gone up one or two teeth in the rear to get the results I wanted. Plus, you are shortening your wheelbase. This is cool if you want to ride a track or a canyon.

Another common upgrade you hear about is a 520 conversion. A 520 is a smaller, lighter chain. The advantage of this upgrade is you will have less rotating mass, less inertia, and therefore an internal dyno like a Dynojet will report a horsepower increase. It's the same reason a lot of people put lighter wheels on their bikes. However, you will need to go with aluminum sprockets, because they don't make 520 steel sprockets, and you will use up chains and sprockets about 30% faster. Plus, because they are a lot lighter, high horsepower engines can snap a cheap or worn 520 chain easily. Another disadvantage is that a 520 chain and sprockets can be as much as 50% more money than a conventional setup. The true advantage of a 520 conversion is the sponsored racer who gets a new chain before every race. Even the most proficient street rider gets very little benefit from this and will never notice any difference.

But then there is replacement issues. Every new bike today comes with a link-less chain. Meaning there is no master link. Every link is riveted. While master link chains are still available, the best idea is to purchase a chain rivet tool (about $30 to $60) so that you can replace your chain with another linkless chain. I would not want to have a master link come apart on a 120hp engine at high speed. Yikes!

A common misconception with chain replacement is to change you chain and sprockets at the same time. This is only true if you use aluminum sprockets. If you use steel or factory sprockets, the rule of thumb is two chains to one set of sprockets. That is, of course, if you replace your chains before they are so bad they damage the steel sprockets. Unless you wish to change your gearing when your chain wears out, simply replace the chain. A good chain costs about $100, and a rear sprocket can run around $75 or more. Even if the second chain wears out a little bit faster than the first chain, you'll still end up saving a grundle of money without compromising safety. For a bit more information on how to replace a chain, visit CanyonChasers chain replacement page.

So, there you have it. The moral of the story is: lube often. A well-lubricated chain is quieter and has a lot less drag allowing the motor to spin the rear wheel without having to force its way past a worn or tight chain. And if you are lubing your chain every 500 miles, you will be very aware of its condition for when it will need an adjustment or a replacement.

vtec88 · February 26, 2011

Bros,

if u guys need something to jack up the bike for tasks like

"Lub the chain"

"Check wheel bearing"

"check for nails on tires"

A sissor jack will do the Job.

i am selling (sold many to forum ppl here)

http://aluminumfloorjack.org/wp-content/uploads/Scissor-Jack.jpg

sms me 9875 9408(Derek) for enquires or PM me Direct.

DO NOT reply here as i will not check.

Edited March 13, 2011 by vtec88

ezzyoiler · March 2, 2011

there are typically 3 type of bikers as far as chain maintenace is concerned..

1. leave it to the workshop to handle ie during eo changing schdule.

2. lube chains only..seldom clean it before lubbing...i believe most bikers in this caegory.

3. lube and clean..

i leave out the dont bother type...until it is broken..

so from the above which bike will give you the best performance and ride???

the answer is obvious...the clean and lube bunch are trully bikers...who really take good care of their bikes..

beside having top performances, smoother ride...they actually saves money ie chain life is extended and better fuel economy..

but the downside is that this is very labourious , dirty and time consuming job...

but fortunately a low cost oiler is available to overcome the hassle in manual cleaning..

so which type do you think you fall into..?

Edited March 2, 2011 by ezzyoiler

RiderKL · March 16, 2011

thanks for the writeup !

ezzyoiler · March 17, 2011

thank you...hope that this artical gives you a rundown on the importance of chain cleaning

you can overcome the tedious and messy job of maintaining your bike chains by using a chain oiler..

a low cost version is available now...check out the EZZYOILER...THE CHAIN OILER At THE pmo of sbf..

call me if you need any assistance..

SundayForever · March 19, 2011

i think it has a chemical called molybdynum disulfide which sticks very well to the chain.

Rift Plat

RS Gold

Cheap Maplestory Mesos

ezzyoiler · March 22, 2011

i think it has a chemical called molybdynum disulfide which sticks very well to the chain.

??????????????????...the sticky type will pick up road grime...road grime, oxidised and disintegrate lube and if it is not removed by cleaning...this stuff will eventually destroy the chains..

ezzyoiler · April 1, 2011

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/images/icons/icon1.png

chain cleaning and lubbing will be one task you have to do regularly...if you want your bike to perorm well.

in fact this task will take up most of your time in maintaining it in a tip top conditions.

if you do not have an oiler...then the task need to be done every 500km..EZZYOILER reccommendation.

there are bikers who are not aware of the importance of keeping the chains in tip top conditions.

one biker recently mentioned that his chains cannot be retensioned to the required sag. he was advised to remove one link to shorten the stretched chains..this chain condition is a basket case already. removing one link...will end up with serious damage to the bike/biker if the chain snap..

OILER will solve this manual cleaning and lubing issues...with no hassle at all...

it will pay or itsel many times over too...

and your ride will be smoother...

dont loose horse power...put it back with the EZZYOILER..

spaiduhz · April 3, 2011

Goodness . Everywhere i go, there must be a street peddler hawking his wares.

Khuboy · May 27, 2011

Ever finding it troublesome to oil chain or clean rims. Introducing WHEEL JOCKEY which reduce the trouble, the risk of bike falling, the damage of pocket on paddock stands for front and rear. It is universal for all bikes and can be use for both front and rear wheels.

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/215-Racing-Enthusiasts

ORen · June 3, 2011

Hey guys, tried a search on this thread but having difficulties finding the answer: what's the best lube/chain oil ?

I'm not talking about engine oil, but specific lube made for chains.

I'm looking at a very long trip (10k km) on the bike overseas and I want to carry some with me ideally for the whole lengh of the trip.

For my normal use in SG I use a gel type of lube, this one :

http://www.atr.com.my/store/images/Holts%20Motorcycle%20Universal%20Chain%20Lube%20P1.jpg

it works well, the only problem is that it flings a lot and I end up with my rear rim completely covered in grim, so that on dusty roads will not work well at all.

A mechanic once used on my chain a white spray type of chain lube. No flings, doesn't drip or splatter and I was told it's a high quality lube, but my ignorant self thinks if it's not greasy, it can't be that good

I can't remember the brand, I remember the spray can was white/blue-ish.

What would you guys recommend ?

Thanks !

GregTay67 · June 3, 2011

I would recommend the ezzyoiler. I am using it and it works great. Used chain lube before but it picks up so much dirt that grinds your chain down. Ezzyoiler not only oils your chain and sprocket but cleans Tham as well.

ezzyoiler · June 3, 2011

Hey guys, tried a search on this thread but having difficulties finding the answer: what's the best lube/chain oil ?

I'm not talking about engine oil, but specific lube made for chains.
I'm looking at a very long trip (10k km) on the bike overseas and I want to carry some with me ideally for the whole lengh of the trip.
For my normal use in SG I use a gel type of lube, this one :

http://www.atr.com.my/store/images/Holts%20Motorcycle%20Universal%20Chain%20Lube%20P1.jpg

it works well, the only problem is that it flings a lot and I end up with my rear rim completely covered in grim, so that on dusty roads will not work well at all.

A mechanic once used on my chain a white spray type of chain lube. No flings, doesn't drip or splatter and I was told it's a high quality lube, but my ignorant self thinks if it's not greasy, it can't be that good
I can't remember the brand, I remember the spray can was white/blue-ish.

What would you guys recommend ?

Thanks !

you are talksing aboiut a 10,00km trip...

you want ease of use...and enjoy the ride

if you oil your chain manually...

every night?

every 500km??

what about cleaning it??

if not your chain may not last the distance.

the best solution is an oiler...

get the biggest resevoir...say 500ml...

at a lube usage of say 1ml/10km...now you have a 5000km range before a refill is required...

chain cleaning?? the oiler wiill do it for you on every ride...no hassle at all..

and chains in tip top condition all he time..

you are welcome to inspect my bike chains...

thats the best...yes best solution.. and the best thing is that if you have a good quality chain...you may not have to replace the chain on that trip..too..

if you want to discuss on the merits of an oiler call me..

as ezzyoiler says...'experience the miracle..where chain cleaning is history'...yeah his story not yours anymore

Edited June 3, 2011 by ezzyoiler

ezzyoiler · June 3, 2011

interesting article..
intersting articleChain Maintenance...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain/IMG_6209.jpg
Let's face it, without your chain, you ain't going anywhere. So why, then, do we ignore our chains for so long? Chains have gotten so good over the past 10 years that it is easy to forget about them. But an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Which in motorcycling, an ounce of prevention can also be worth a pound of skin.
There are really two main types of chains: O-Ring chains and Non-O-Ring chains. O-Ring chains have, as you would guess, small O-Rings built into them. The O-Rings are used to keep grease and lube inside your chain (between all the moving parts). Non-O-Ring chains do not. Back in the day when O-Ring chains came out, many people believed the O-Rings created high levels of drag. However, that is not the case. A well-maintained O-Ring (X-ring, Y-ring etc) chain provides less drag, requires less maintenance, and lasts a heck of a lot longer.
It is important to remember that the purpose of an O-Ring chain is to keep the lubrication inside. So based on that, there is little you can do to keep your chain in top condition, right? Sorry, but O-Ring chains require attention just like everything else on your bike. A true sign of a squid is a dry, squeaking, rusty chain.
A chain that is ignored will eventually fail, typically by breaking. A broken chain will many times ball-up around the countershaft and front sprocket. When this happens, your chain will rip and tear its way through your soft aluminum motor and will always result in engine damage (either from the chain flailing around or from the motor coming to an immediate stop) Sometimes a chain will get caught in the rear wheel, resulting in an immediate rear wheel skid. Rarely, somebody will get lucky and the chain will fly off the bike without making contact with anything while the rider coasts to a stop (this is rare). In either case, you will be stranded. More than likely, you will have some damage, be it be minor or major.
So now that we've established chain maintenance is probably a good idea, where should we start? Like all things mechanical, let's start with lubrication. You should lube your chain every 500 miles of riding. There are many types of lube available; everything from basic wax, foaming wax, conventional lube to foaming conventional lube. Different lubes will provide different levels of fling and protection. Typically the more fling, the better protection and the less fling the less protection. The hard part is deciding what level of fling/protection you want to deal with. The less fling, the more frequently you'll have to lube. -----
this i s where the oiler is so superior..
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain-lube.jpgWhen your chain is without lube, it will build up a lot of heat and result in the chain stretching. Without lube, your O-Ring will also be exposed to the harmful ozone and ultraviolet rays, causing them to dry out, crack, and even fall off.
It is important (with O-Ring chains) to always lube your chain immediately after riding, while the chain is warm. Remember how we talked about how O-Ring chains keep the lube inside the chain? Well, lubing your chain while still hot will cause the lube to be drawn into the chain as it cools. Also, remember that chain lube's primary job is to lube between the chain and the sprockets.
Also, you need to lube your chain in two locations. Spray the majority of the lube on the inside of the chain. This helps prevent fling and will force lube into the chain when you are riding. You also need to spray lube directly onto the O-Rings. The best way to do this is at the rear sprocket, spinning the wheel as you go. Avoid the temptation to prop the bike up on the track stand or center stand, start the bike, put it in first gear while the rear wheel is in the air, and spray as the motor moves the rear wheel. The number of fingers claimed by this exercise is astonishing and a quick search on the Internet will reveal images of people who have lost their fingers doing this (not just dummies, but experienced motorcycle mechanics). It is much better and safer to do it the hard way, with the motor off and the bike in neutral.
If you do this regularly, your chain will keep a high level of lubrication but will also draw a lot of dirt and you'll end up with a really dirty-looking chain. Dirt, as I'm sure you can imagine, is very bad for a chain. A good idea is, every 3000 miles or whenever you change your oil, to clean your chain. The easiest way to clean your chain is with a rag, a toothbrush, and kerosene.
Don't use harsh solvents, like gasoline, because they can ruin the O-Rings. Spray or wipe your chain with kerosene. The best part about using kerosene is that it will clean your chain amazingly quick, saving you lots of time. I usually use an old rag and soak it with kerosene and wipe it over the chain until the chain is clean. Incidentally, kerosene can be found at any department store, usually in the camping section. Its traditionally used to run camp-stoves, lanterns and stoves. But be prepared to spend $5.00 for a 10-year supply. After about 20 minutes you will have an immaculately clean chain and an amazingly filthy rag.
CAUTION: Be sure you get "kerosene" - not camp fuel or white gas. Camp fuel and white gas comes in the same can as kerosene but it is extremely volatile and will ignite astonishingly easy. Be double and triple sure the can says "Kerosene". Don't trust the store clerk either, if it doesn't say kerosene it is most likely white fuel and that is very dangerous.
Its also a really great idea to remove the countershaft sprocket cover and clean all the excess lube build-up that is around the front sprocket. If you let this stuff build up it can cause problems that you probably do not want to ever deal with.
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain-adjust.jpgYour chain also needs to be adjusted properly. Of course, your owner's manual will have exact requirements for your bike, but the rule of thumb is about 1 to 1.5 inches of slack. But what does that mean and why is that important? Slack is how much the chain will move up and down freely at a point halfway between the two sprockets.
You need slack because as your swingarm moves up to compress for a bump, the chain gets tighter. When a chain is too tight, it will bind on the sprockets, causing quicker wear of both chain and sprockets. A tight chain will also, over time, ruin your countershaft and your countershaft seal (the seal around the shaft that carries the front sprocket) and may even bend the countershaft. Also, a tight chain is more likely to develop tight spots. Tight spots are portions of the chain that stretch at different rates and cause binding between links. So, why not just run the chain really loose? Well, too loose and the chain runs the risk of flying off the sprockets. Bad news! Also, too loose causes a lot of slop in the driveline. Example: twist the throttle, short delay, then lurching as the chain snaps tight, then loose until you are under heavy acceleration. Chain adjustments are very important, even though it may not be something you need to do very often.
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain/IMG_6207.jpgIf your chain requires adjustment, your owner's manual will have the information you need to tighten/loosen it as there are many different types of adjustment. You will probably need to start by loosening the axle to allow the wheel to move. Then you can turn the adjuster screws, Â¼ turn at a time, until you reach the proper adjustment. I like to turn the left one, and then turn the right one the same distance to maintain wheel alignment.
When you achieve proper slack, you need to make sure the wheel alignment is still correct. If the wheel is crooked in the swingarm, your chain and sprockets will wear really rapidly and you can even get into strange handling characteristics. There are two ways to measure alignment. You can grab a flexible tape measure (like what tailors use) and measure from the center of your axle to the center of the swingarm pivot. Or you can string your bike up. Stringing requires you to get a really long piece of string and wrap it around the front tire. Then pull the lengths of string back toward the rear wheel. You can then use your calibrated eyeball to compare the strings with the alignment of the wheels. If your wheel is out of alignment, it will be pretty obvious. I have had a lot of success using the tape measure method. I think it's quicker and more accurate.
After you are confident with your alignment, tighten everything up and check the slack again. Most bikes will to tighten chain slack when everything is snugged back down. So I have to set the chain really loose so when I torque everything down the chain is set properly.
But how do you know when your chain needs to be replaced? If you go to your rear sprocket and pull straight back on the chain, you'll be heading in the right direction. If your chain pulls away from the sprockets by much, it is probably stretched out. If the chain does not pull away and stays right on the sprocket, then the chain is not stretched out yet. Also, if your sprockets no longer look like points but a bunch of little hooks you need to replace it all.
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain-wear.jpgWhile we are on the subject of chains, a very popular upgrade is to lower the gearing to make the bike quicker off the line at the cost of top speed. The quickest and easiest way to lower gearing is to buy a front sprocket with one less tooth. Simply replacing the front doesn't require a new chain and will cost about $14.00 to do. However, the disadvantages of doing this are pretty significant. First, if you are not replacing your chain at the same time, it will lengthen your wheelbase; that's not such a big deal. But the biggest problem with dropping a tooth in front is you put a lot more torque on your countershaft. Possibly resulting in a ruined seal or worse, a bent countershaft ($$$ expensive $$$). I know of more than one TLS/TLR out there that bent countershafts within 50 miles of dropping to a smaller front sprocket - so this is likely more of an issue with high-torque motors. So the likelihood of this happening depends on how dramatic the change is and the characteristics of the motor, but its good to be aware of this before making any decisions. We strongly feel that the best way to lower gearing is to add teeth to the rear sprocket. Depending on how dramatic of a change you want, you will probably need a new chain. Usually, you increase four teeth in the rear to equal dropping one tooth in the front (but that varies greatly depending on what your stock gearing is). By changing rear sprockets, you have more control. You can go up any number of teeth to get the result you want. I have typically only gone up one or two teeth in the rear to get the results I wanted. Plus, you are shortening your wheelbase. This is cool if you want to ride a track or a canyon.
Another common upgrade you hear about is a 520 conversion. A 520 is a smaller, lighter chain. The advantage of this upgrade is you will have less rotating mass, less inertia, and therefore an internal dyno like a Dynojet will report a horsepower increase. It's the same reason a lot of people put lighter wheels on their bikes. However, you will need to go with aluminum sprockets, because they don't make 520 steel sprockets, and you will use up chains and sprockets about 30% faster. Plus, because they are a lot lighter, high horsepower engines can snap a cheap or worn 520 chain easily. Another disadvantage is that a 520 chain and sprockets can be as much as 50% more money than a conventional setup. The true advantage of a 520 conversion is the sponsored racer who gets a new chain before every race. Even the most proficient street rider gets very little benefit from this and will never notice any difference.
But then there is replacement issues. Every new bike today comes with a link-less chain. Meaning there is no master link. Every link is riveted. While master link chains are still available, the best idea is to purchase a chain rivet tool (about $30 to $60) so that you can replace your chain with another linkless chain. I would not want to have a master link come apart on a 120hp engine at high speed. Yikes!
A common misconception with chain replacement is to change you chain and sprockets at the same time. This is only true if you use aluminum sprockets. If you use steel or factory sprockets, the rule of thumb is two chains to one set of sprockets. That is, of course, if you replace your chains before they are so bad they damage the steel sprockets. Unless you wish to change your gearing when your chain wears out, simply replace the chain. A good chain costs about $100, and a rear sprocket can run around $75 or more. Even if the second chain wears out a little bit faster than the first chain, you'll still end up saving a grundle of money without compromising safety. For a bit more information on how to replace a chain, visit CanyonChasers chain replacement page.
So, there you have it. The moral of the story is: lube often. A well-lubricated chain is quieter and has a lot less drag allowing the motor to spin the rear wheel without having to force its way past a worn or tight chain. And if you are lubing your chain every 500 miles, you will be very aware of its condition for when it will need an adjustment or a replacement.

read this article..it is very informative...

ORen · June 22, 2011

Following my post on this thread and my research for a solution to oil my chain during my upcoming, I made my own chain oiler with the advice of friends from the Singapore Bajaj Team thread.

I made two videos of my DIY chain Oiler, in case anyone is interested :

Setup :

In action:

xavw · June 22, 2011

http://www.atr.com.my/store/images/Holts%20Motorcycle%20Universal%20Chain%20Lube%20P1.jpg

it works well, the only problem is that it flings a lot and I end up with my rear rim completely covered in grim, so that on dusty roads will not work well at all.

I'm also using that chain lube. Agree with you that it flings alot. If I lube my chain, and then the next day it rains, the whole thing will look damn messy.

Hydher · June 26, 2011

Im using maxima chain wax. Its been 2 years of riding a chain driven bike and it is still not finished.

It sticks on the chain well. It doesnt fling on your tyres and be a hazard to skid. but it attracts grime and dirt after rain.

Recently invested in a jack from a bikeshop(they kinda had it lying around) bought it from them cheaply.

Set up takes 1 min and spraying takes another.

Now thinking of either DUPONT $18 for 400ML or BEL RAYS $23 for 568ML.

Btw, if you're using Diesel to clean your chains, Dont just use a spray lube to lubricate it. Use some kinda flowing oil or it will rust.

For a tip, i put my jack and a bottle of lube in a bag. When in the week i come home late after a ride, id go get that bag, lube my chains and leave it for the night to set in.

ezzyoiler · June 27, 2011

the easy part is the lubing...

over lube/spray sticky wax..u will have a problem...on areas of the bike .on rims ,on spokes just about anything that the lube comes in contact.

in time the sticky lube will be turned into unsightly crud...if not removed..

some of you will realise that ..sticky lube need solvents to remove them...ordinary soap is not good enough..

solvents are really bad for bikes...

BUT THE IDEA OF CLEANING THE CHAINS before lubing seems to be forgotten/AVOIDED.. by most...

tip top chains need to be lubed periodically...as well as A clean chains..

no cleaning prior to lubbing means one thing.. road grime that is on your chains will remain there..

and this is the stuff that will shorten the life of your chains..besides no lubrication...

so in order to have a tip top chains ..you need to CLEAN AND LUBE..

So when was the last time you have cleaned the chains??? if you take more then a second to answer...then your chains most probably is crying silently.. PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD CLEANING..

There is a easier way to maintain the chains...other then cleaning it manually..

yes..u guess correctly...

i for one havent touch/clean my chains manually for more han 10000km..

you are always welcome to inspect my chains...

ikki · June 28, 2011

has anyone tried using singer oil? it works great on my bicycle but i've never tried it b4 on a bike's chain..

n i rem that it works wonders for those old vintage sewing machine that my mum once used..

sooo hav anyone tried it yet? =)

ezzyoiler · June 29, 2011

no..not the correct lube....

this is a light duty lube...

your chain needs a heavy duty type...

for more infor...read up on tribology.

Wen gege · July 29, 2011

Personally, i think that it is up to individua preferences to use oil or wax chain lubrication.

I have tried both and all kinda chain lube, wax or oil,2T oil, 4T oil and even the scotoiler oil. it serve the same purposes. our aim is to lubricate our chain and to imporve the ride and prevent the chain rust and pro-long the chain life spent. As talking abt will the chain lube fling, wax or oil base chain can spray, both wil fling.(that in my own opinion and observation)

Of cuz wax fling lesser compare to oil, as oil is consider a waterbase liquid. at the end of ur ride, u will notice and wonder why is ur rim accumulate grit and dirt, i can say da it is partially due to our chain lube fling while riding in high speed. not only on our rim, as well as our swimarm, chain guard n other places.

Manually to lubricate your chain are much practical and efficiet. Why? It is simply because we get to understand our chain's condition better like any missing link part. It is like u r inspecting ur chain while u lubricating. At the same time, u get to know know ur bike better. Build a relationship with ur bike. That is vv important to all rider.

(Why Rossi talk to is Bike before every each race)

Pls refer to the link.

http://www.nilacharal.com/enter/celeb/valentino_rossi.asp

All of us travel at the speed at least an 50km/Hr or above, wax or oil will definately fling due to the speed and the rotational of the chain & spockets.

so expect to clean it an give ur bike a good shower once every week.

I am wonder if u guys have heard of Easy stand universal. It able u to lubricate your own chain without anyone's help, complete the lubrication process in just less than 3 mins. Plese kindly check out my video in my signature & CMO for a better understanding.

Ride safe.

Sky99 · August 26, 2011

http://www.gmengineers.co.uk/wd40.jpg

Is it okay to use this to spray on the chain?

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