Track EO

[sibingai]

guys... nid opinion on whether 5w-60 or 10w-40 is better for track use??

 

for my ownself, i would prefer the 10w-40 as i also ride my bike on the roads.

 

but purely on track use?? pls advise.thank you

[rein_jahat14]

If juz use bike purely for race only..

Motul has 5-30W.

Being light less viscocity..

less drag in ur mechanism..

but oil will dis-integrated freaking fast..

Once screwed..u feel like kicking the gear shifter as its gonna be hard to shift up or down..

Engine will be rough..

But in race condition & mileage..Fresh oil should be use.

Rider should feel smoother transmission & better power delivery..

When in race..every weight counts..even petrol..juz for that extra seconds..hehe

[sibingai]

If juz use bike purely for race only..

Motul has 5-30W.

Being light less viscocity..

less drag in ur mechanism..

but oil will dis-integrated freaking fast..

Once screwed..u feel like kicking the gear shifter as its gonna be hard to shift up or down..

Engine will be rough..

But in race condition & mileage..Fresh oil should be use.

Rider should feel smoother transmission & better power delivery..

When in race..every weight counts..even petrol..juz for that extra seconds..hehe

so meaning, if i use 5w-60 for race,its better than 10w-40 right?? kos here u mention its 5w-30 and its motul.... but im talking abt other brands..

 

thanks Rein

[rein_jahat14]

all werk fine actually..

thicker oil better protection..

thinner oil light weight/viscosity..less drag..equal to more drivability power..

 

U can also test by trial & error too..

Different lubrication oil makers have different specs..

[sibingai]

all werk fine actually..

thicker oil better protection..

thinner oil light weight/viscosity..less drag..equal to more drivability power..

 

U can also test by trial & error too..

Different lubrication oil makers have different specs..

 

hhmm...would love to test it out...but i think on the safer bet is 10w-40.

kos its not me who will be testing it..so if wanna test at PG, no time to chande EO in the pit, unlike during MSS time.

[Hartholomew]

These engine oil weight questions get asked alot, so let's try to clear this up:

 

Between a 5W-60 and a 10W-40, the 10W-40 is going to be the better oil for getting that little bit extra out of your engine in a situation where performance is the priority.

 

However, as Rein put it, the 5W-30 is going to be a little better than the 10W-40.

 

This is why:

 

Engine oils with 2 numbers in their ratings (like those described above) are what you call "multi-grade oils", while oils with a single number (eg: SAE 30) are single grade (duh) oils.

 

Multi grade oils (once known as "all season" oils in countries that have wide varying temperatures that range from below freezing in winter and real hot in summer) were engineered to make life easier for people who use their vehicles in seasonal environments, unlike Singapore, where the temperature fluctuations are minimal.

 

Before multi grade oil, people needed to use really thin oils in winter, thin enough so that the oil itself would not freeze. Thin oils let the engines crank easily when started and flowed easily enough to get to all parts of the engine quickly, to prevent start up damage.

 

But as the season got hotter, the thin oils they used in winter would get so thin that they did not provide wear protection, thinning out under high loads and temperatures.

 

So when the season got hotter, they changed to heavier oils to suit.

 

With the invention of multi grade oils, these people were able to use a single type of oil for "all seasons", hence the name.

 

Before we go on, you should know that the higher the number, the thicker the oil. The first number is the viscosity of the oil at 0 degrees celsius (freezing point) and the second number of the oil is it's viscosity at 100 degrees celsius (boiling point).

So lets compare the viscosities of the oils recommended in this thread and see which is best for high load, high temperature operations, like encountered on the track:

 

5W-30

5W-60

10W-40

 

Since we in Singapore are probably never going to face any temperatures close to freezing, we can put much less emphasis on the first number, which is the oil viscosity at freezing (0 degrees Celsius).

 

However, the range (gap between the 2 numbers) also tell us something about the oil:

Oils with a bigger gap are less stable than oils with a smaller gap and will break down quicker.

 

So the more stable oils that will last longer are the 5W-30 (Gap of 25), followed by the 10W-40 (Gap of 30) and lastly, the 5W-60 (Gap of 55).

 

If I was operating my engine in an environment that had extreme temperature differences, I would go for the 5W-60.

 

But living in Singapore, I would go for the 5W-30 if I was racing, or the 10W-40 for fast road use with the odd trackday thrown in now and then.

 

So now comes the big question: Which is better for performance in Singapore’s heat?

 

It would most definitely be the 5W-30 oil as it has the lowest viscosity number at 100 degrees Celsius (30) among the three and has the smallest range making it most stable.

 

However like Rein mentioned, using such light oils means that you got to change it often as light oils break down faster than heavy oils.

 

Second would be the 10W-40.

 

The 5W-60 would be my last choice as it has the highest (60 - thickest viscosity) at 100 degrees celsius, meaning that I would lose more power through oil drag in the engine than compared with the other 2.

 

Please remember that there are other things to worry about when choosing oil. You cannot expect one brand’s oil to behave exactly like another brand’s just because they have the same rating.

 

Oil companies add in signature additives that differ from brand to brand.

 

I am going to leave brand names out of this and leave everyone to make their own informed decision.

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola

 

The REV Club

Not some greedy f*ck out to make a buck

Edited January 18, 2010 by Hartholomew

[sibingai]

These engine oil weight questions get asked alot, so let's try to clear this up:

 

Between a 5W-60 and a 10W-40, the 10W-40 is going to be the better oil for getting that little bit extra out of your engine in a situation where performance is the priority.

 

However, as Rein put it, the 5W-30 is going to be a little better than the 10W-40.

 

This is why:

 

Engine oils with 2 numbers in their ratings (like those described above) are what you call "multi-grade oils", while oils with a single number (eg: SAE 30) are single grade (duh) oils.

 

Multi grade oils (once known as "all season" oils in countries that have wide varying temperatures that range from below freezing in winter and real hot in summer) were engineered to make life easier for people who use their vehicles in seasonal environments, unlike Singapore, where the temperature fluctuations are minimal.

 

Before multi grade oil, people needed to use really thin oils in winter, thin enough so that the oil itself would not freeze. Thin oils let the engines crank easily when started and flowed easily enough to get to all parts of the engine quickly, to prevent start up damage.

 

But as the season got hotter, the thin oils they used in winter would get so thin that they did not provide wear protection, thinning out under high loads and temperatures.

 

So when the season got hotter, they changed to heavier oils to suit.

 

With the invention of multi grade oils, these people were able to use a single type of oil for "all seasons", hence the name.

 

Before we go on, you should know that the higher the number, the thicker the oil. The first number is the viscosity of the oil at 0 degrees celsius (freezing point) and the second number of the oil is it's viscosity at 100 degrees celsius (boiling point).

So lets compare the viscosities of the oils recommended in this thread and see which is best for high load, high temperature operations, like encountered on the track:

 

5W-30

5W-60

10W-40

 

Since we in Singapore are probably never going to face any temperatures close to freezing, we can put much less emphasis on the first number, which is the oil viscosity at freezing (0 degrees Celsius).

 

However, the range (gap between the 2 numbers) also tell us something about the oil:

Oils with a bigger gap are less stable than oils with a smaller gap and will break down quicker.

 

So the more stable oils that will last longer are the 5W-30 (Gap of 25), followed by the 10W-40 (Gap of 30) and lastly, the 5W-60 (Gap of 55).

 

If I was operating my engine in an environment that had extreme temperature differences, I would go for the 5W-60.

 

But living in Singapore, I would go for the 5W-30 if I was racing, or the 10W-40 for fast road use with the odd trackday thrown in now and then.

 

So now comes the big question: Which is better for performance in Singapore’s heat?

 

It would most definitely be the 5W-30 oil as it has the lowest viscosity number at 100 degrees Celsius (30) among the three and has the smallest range making it most stable.

 

However like Rein mentioned, using such light oils means that you got to change it often as light oils break down faster than heavy oils.

 

Second would be the 10W-40.

 

The 5W-60 would be my last choice as it has the highest (60 - thickest viscosity) at 100 degrees celsius, meaning that I would lose power through oil drag in the engine.

 

Please remember that there are other things to worry about when choosing oil. You cannot expect one brand’s oil to behave exactly like another brand’s just because they have the same rating.

 

Oil companies add in signature additives that differ from brand to brand.

 

I am going to leave brand names out of this and leave everyone to make their own informed decision.

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola

 

The REV Club

Not some greedy f*ck out to make a buck

 

 

great write up hart, actually ive gone thru this lesson but it kindda already 'rusty' in my brain..last i learnt abt EO n engine is during my ITE days. thanks for the 'refresher'..

 

so in this case, i would choose 10w-40 (as i only have two choices of 10w-40 or 5w-60)for race application as 5w-60 seems more viscous 'as the oil changes grade' during application. on which i would not want the oil to change to 'grade 60' during high revs and makin it a drag to the engine thus loses power..

 

so IMHO, 10w-40 is the safest bet for track/weather in Sepang.

 

Anora~

 

also thanks to rein for enlightening.. CYA guys soon~

[Hartholomew]

Always glad to assist mate.

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola

 

The REV Club

Not some greedy f*ck out to make a buck

[Wayang]

great write up hart.. btw i wld like to add the 'W' in the rating u see.. take example: 10W40 stands for winter.. so its the viscosity in winter temp

[sibingai]

great write up hart.. btw i wld like to add the 'W' in the rating u see.. take example: 10W40 stands for winter.. so its the viscosity in winter temp

 

yup..tat i knw

[rein_jahat14]

These engine oil weight questions get asked alot, so let's try to clear this up:

 

Between a 5W-60 and a 10W-40, the 10W-40 is going to be the better oil for getting that little bit extra out of your engine in a situation where performance is the priority.

 

However, as Rein put it, the 5W-30 is going to be a little better than the 10W-40.

 

This is why:

 

Engine oils with 2 numbers in their ratings (like those described above) are what you call "multi-grade oils", while oils with a single number (eg: SAE 30) are single grade (duh) oils.

 

Multi grade oils (once known as "all season" oils in countries that have wide varying temperatures that range from below freezing in winter and real hot in summer) were engineered to make life easier for people who use their vehicles in seasonal environments, unlike Singapore, where the temperature fluctuations are minimal.

 

Before multi grade oil, people needed to use really thin oils in winter, thin enough so that the oil itself would not freeze. Thin oils let the engines crank easily when started and flowed easily enough to get to all parts of the engine quickly, to prevent start up damage.

 

But as the season got hotter, the thin oils they used in winter would get so thin that they did not provide wear protection, thinning out under high loads and temperatures.

 

So when the season got hotter, they changed to heavier oils to suit.

 

With the invention of multi grade oils, these people were able to use a single type of oil for "all seasons", hence the name.

 

Before we go on, you should know that the higher the number, the thicker the oil. The first number is the viscosity of the oil at 0 degrees celsius (freezing point) and the second number of the oil is it's viscosity at 100 degrees celsius (boiling point).

So lets compare the viscosities of the oils recommended in this thread and see which is best for high load, high temperature operations, like encountered on the track:

 

5W-30

5W-60

10W-40

 

Since we in Singapore are probably never going to face any temperatures close to freezing, we can put much less emphasis on the first number, which is the oil viscosity at freezing (0 degrees Celsius).

 

However, the range (gap between the 2 numbers) also tell us something about the oil:

Oils with a bigger gap are less stable than oils with a smaller gap and will break down quicker.

 

So the more stable oils that will last longer are the 5W-30 (Gap of 25), followed by the 10W-40 (Gap of 30) and lastly, the 5W-60 (Gap of 55).

 

If I was operating my engine in an environment that had extreme temperature differences, I would go for the 5W-60.

 

But living in Singapore, I would go for the 5W-30 if I was racing, or the 10W-40 for fast road use with the odd trackday thrown in now and then.

 

So now comes the big question: Which is better for performance in Singapore’s heat?

 

It would most definitely be the 5W-30 oil as it has the lowest viscosity number at 100 degrees Celsius (30) among the three and has the smallest range making it most stable.

 

However like Rein mentioned, using such light oils means that you got to change it often as light oils break down faster than heavy oils.

 

Second would be the 10W-40.

 

The 5W-60 would be my last choice as it has the highest (60 - thickest viscosity) at 100 degrees celsius, meaning that I would lose more power through oil drag in the engine than compared with the other 2.

 

Please remember that there are other things to worry about when choosing oil. You cannot expect one brand’s oil to behave exactly like another brand’s just because they have the same rating.

 

Oil companies add in signature additives that differ from brand to brand.

 

I am going to leave brand names out of this and leave everyone to make their own informed decision.

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola

 

The REV Club

Not some greedy f*ck out to make a buck

 

Regilously Hart...

U always knows how to write a detail explaination in ur own words & examples we local boys can relate..:thumb::thumb:

Not many People have this talent..can juz draft out a detail write out..with the know how..

Unless Complain or Appeal letter lah..khekhke

 

Hart..

Rev Club should start a Newletter..

I be 1st to apply for the subscription...

Hell i apply for Gold or Platinum Membership if need to..if the write out is like this..

U need staff i be 1st in line..khekhekhekhe:P

 

PS: Pssstt...No potato,potato,potato(say it fast wat bike makes this sound) write out pls..heheheheh:angel::angel:

[sibingai]

PS: Pssstt...No potato,potato,potato(say it fast wat bike makes this sound) write out pls..heheheheh:angel::angel:[/color]

 

wats potato got to do w EO man..??

[ambasnakeman]

USE 2t instead of engine oil....will burn and give u extra horsepower

[h4hahak1m]

Seriously?

[Hartholomew]

great write up hart.. btw i wld like to add the 'W' in the rating u see.. take example: 10W40 stands for winter.. so its the viscosity in winter temp

 

You're exactly right to say that the "W" denotes that this is a oil usable in winter. The first number (10 in this case) before the "W" is the viscosity at 0 degrees celsius and I chose to describe it as such as that is a little more specific.

 

Different methods to the same madness, thanks for adding value.

 

Rein,

 

Sounds like my Harley leh.

 

Thanks for the support.

 

The REV Club has many ideas, but we are a bunch of old fogeys which is why we are so slow at churning things out.

 

Kidding!

 

We go through alot of debate when we want to change/launch/start something and want to get it right first time round, so these things take time and alot of consultation with people we trust.

 

Slow and steady wins the race mate, we hate rushing into things and would always rather delay and take the time to make sure whatever we do is a success.

 

There are projects in the pipeline that will make many people very happy if and when we announce.

 

Right now, our first priority is to maintain or elevate the standard of event we have and to address the issue of trying to run as many events as possible to satisfy everyone out there.

 

So cross your lap timers/ignition coils and hope for the best.

 

Cheers,

 

Hartholomew Mamola

 

The REV Club

Not some greedy f*ck out to make a buck

Edited January 20, 2010 by Hartholomew