Engine Oil

[ANR Impex]

Originally posted by arsonist@April 18, 2007 10:55 pm

hahah.. true true... but since silkolene 10w40 is the same price as maxima ultra 5w40 i just think i mite give it a try first,

 

after this mite just downgrade to esso gold $16 at ah boy sg if i find theres not much difference felt

The pro4 not the same level as Ultra even though both are fully syn. It is Fuchs entry level fully syn while Ultra is top end from Maxima. Ultra uses a very special ester (polyol ester) and a hardcore antiwear additive package.

 

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146-0310-Antiwear.add-zoom.gif

 

Can see Pro4 Plus, Fuch's top end fully syn, in the comparison.

[hondawavefan]

Hmm anyone using Elf engine oil?

[Refugee]

was tempted to use the ELF oil... semi ones..

 

but still went back to motul 5100.. lol...

 

cant find the list of EO prices.. damn

[Ashcroftx]

Why not get Sikolene? Lolx

[pyro13]

changed motul 1-w40 yest..damn god..am going to stick to it..

thx refugee for the recommendation

[Ashcroftx]

I'm using OWS 10w40 very smooth sia.. hahax

[SmallCC]

How often you all change engine oil?

[skazuz]

am using esso gold for all my bikes..works great.. and its cheap too..

 

cheers

skazuz

[pyro13]

apparently 10w40 is te recomended oil for cubs and mopeds.

 

smallcc i change every 1000km

[hachi]

The pro4 not the same level as Ultra even though both are fully syn. It is Fuchs entry level fully syn while Ultra is top end from Maxima. Ultra uses a very special ester (polyol ester) and a hardcore antiwear additive package.

 

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146-0310-Antiwear.add-zoom.gif

 

Can see Pro4 Plus, Fuch's top end fully syn, in the comparison.

 

Does it mean maximum oil is good for modern bikes since phosphorous are not cat friendly, and nowadays most bikes do come with catalytic converter to fight emission? By looking at the graph, the additives are almost 50% more than other oil manufacturers...

Since API have decreased the amount of phosphorous in automotive oil in order to save guard the catalytic converter? CAn you please comment on this, thanks...

[hachi]

Motor Oil Additive Packages

 

Zinc and phosphorous are emergency lubricants. These chemicals are present in case your oil film completely breaks down, due to extreme temperatures or pressures. These chemicals are supposed to be a last resort defense against metal to metal contact in your engine. Oil companies are cutting back on zinc and phosphorous, as these metals are hard on your catalytic converters.

 

This is wat I read from the net, that why it make sense why other oil companies are cutting back on those 2 additives.

Does it make sense to ruin your catalytic converter that disregard emission control done pain staking by each bike manufacturers? Unless the owners decat(if there is such word) or full system the bike...That is the one's choice

Can you enlighten us on that issue? Thanks

[ANR Impex]

When oil seeps past the piston rings, it burns up in the combustion chamber. The result is smoke from the burnt petroleum base and metallic ash from the additives, of which Zn and Ph make up a significant portion of. This ash supposedly chokes the honeycomb structure of the catalyser and kills the reactive surfaces.

 

Now, this really isn't a problem as long as your engine is not a heavy oil consumer. Most Japanese engines aren't. Is your 4 stroke bike smoking like a 2 stroke? If it isn't, you don't have a problem.

 

However this became a legal concern of automotive companies (cars) because they're required by strict rulings to guarantee catalyser function for a certain duration. With emission laws coming into strict effect in the EU countries, the need to ensure modern automotives pass these periodic tests without a hitch became a priority.

 

Reducing Zn/Ph is the most straightforward way, and changes to the design of engines (detuned) has made them less demanding on antiwear protection. Yet they can never eliminate Zn/Ph, it is the best antiwear/anti-oxidation system they have. The current cap is around 800ppm if I rem correct for API SM.

 

Modern high performance bike engines on the other hand represent the highest level of tune in a production engine. For example, the ever higher rpms require increasingly aggressive cam lobes and stiffer valve springs that place alot more pressure on the cams, this is where low Zn/Ph will start to show its weakness. High comp also puts extreme pressure on piston rings, another area where Zn/Ph is critical. Cars are looking at 10:1, production bikes have reached 13:1. Additionally, the transmission lube function of 4T in bikes is another extreme pressure application, u need these 'last line of defense' antiwear because gear teeth don't skim on an oil film like the main bearings, but mesh together with very high pressure at the instantaneous contact points.

 

The catalysers and other features like charcoal filters are a recent addition to make them legal for sale in certain countries. The makers expect them to be changed out in the majority of bikes sold anyway. The same can be said of some 'features' in recent models. Yamaha's EXUP on the new R6 has been shown to be a noise control device with little performance benefits. Stock bikes are tuned deliberately lean to pass emissions. Strange dips in the powerband at around 6~7k, which also happens to be where noise and emission levels are tested. Hope this answers your query.

[SmallCC]

pyro13 , you change oil so frequent ar. I change mind every 2000km and also replace the oil filter, is this the rite way?

[pyro13]

can also.. the manual states every 5000km buts its cheapp so i change regularly..

 

i always have this mindset tat the manual always wan u to change till ur parts wear off fast so tat wen u overhaul, they get money

[SmallCC]

Haha.. sounds true. At 2000km the engine oil is ****ing black. If 5000km , i dunno how the oil gonna be.

[skazuz]

every twice a week would be good or 2500-3500km...

 

cheers

skazuz

[Refugee]

changed motul 1-w40 yest..damn god..am going to stick to it..

thx refugee for the recommendation

 

lol... dun say until like i gave you the EO leh... haha...

 

but i reckon you're using motul 300v?

 

good but too expensive IMO....

[pyro13]

yep..it cost me rm 28 at kok seng bro..

 

my fren wanted to pump petrol in JB..so i tot wat d hell..might as well go ter change

[Refugee]

motul 300V at 28 ringgit is really good deal..lol

[pyro13]

but to be honest ar..not sure if its 300V..i just took the motul as the viscosity is the same as wat u recommend..

 

10W40

hw much does it cost in SG??

[Refugee]

around 23 sgd onwards....

[Ashcroftx]

I'm using ows 10w 40 also good!

[SmallCC]

I just bought OWS 10W-40 from speedzone at $10. It is expensive?

[Refugee]

I just bought OWS 10W-40 from speedzone at $10. It is expensive?

 

yeap... you got a good deal... lol... now we know where to find cheaper OWS already.. hahaha

[ANR Impex]

yeap... you got a good deal... lol... now we know where to find cheaper OWS already.. hahaha

 

It is a semi syn after all. Hydrocracked, hydroprocessed, all means semi syn base. Same as Conoco.