Technical Talk for GK76A GSX-R 400

[ichiro]

i just bought a voltmeter, but i just cant seem to think where to tab the voltmeter? can highlight me?

 

1: i tab it to my battery, but when i off my engine, it still will display causing my battery to die faster

 

2: tab to my headlight, but when i switch my headlight off, it dont display any reading + it not very zun,

[FieryGiX]

Originally posted by ichiro@Jul 11 2004, 04:30 PM

i just bought a voltmeter, but i just cant seem to think where to tab the voltmeter? can highlight me?

 

1: i tab it to my battery, but when i off my engine, it still will display causing my battery to die faster

 

2: tab to my headlight, but when i switch my headlight off, it dont display any reading + it not very zun,

You can tap it to the "Red Wire" coming out from under the ignition unit. The other end can tap from the "Black wire with white strip" from either the left or right signal light.

[ichiro]

Originally posted by Ae86@Jul 11 2004, 09:19 PM

You can tap it to the "Red Wire" coming out from under the ignition unit. The other end can tap from the "Black wire with white strip" from either the left or right signal light.

then when i off the ignition, will the voltmeter still read? i tested with my ignition switch, then grounded with my screws, when i switch off my ignition, it still read, will tab to my signal light works?

[FieryGiX]

Originally posted by ichiro@Jul 11 2004, 09:53 PM

then when i off the ignition, will the voltmeter still read?

No, i wun read. It will only read when u "on" ur ignition.

[ichiro]

i edited my post,

[ichiro]

Originally posted by Ae86@Jul 11 2004, 10:11 PM

No, i wun read. It will only read when u "on" ur ignition.

anyway is the ignition connected to our batt? thus, reading direct to our batt, not other things else

[FieryGiX]

Originally posted by ichiro@Jul 11 2004, 10:16 PM

anyway is the ignition connected to our batt? thus, reading direct to our batt, not other things else

The ignition is connected to the battery and rectifier only..

Btw how much you get the voltmeter and where are u thinking of fixing it?

[ichiro]

Originally posted by Ae86@Jul 11 2004, 11:01 PM

The ignition is connected to the battery and rectifier only..

Btw how much you get the voltmeter and where are u thinking of fixing it?

i got my voltmeter at carrefour, cost me 29.90, it is digital and it runs by 7seg led, it quite flat, and it is suppose to put on car(cigarette lighter) well i intend to put it to my left hand side, near the headlight screws there, going to do a bracket so it hold the voltmeter

[speedtriple]

Hi guys,

Heard that the spark plug heat range will afffect startup. What is a recommended range? And what is spark plug indexing?

[FieryGiX]

Originally posted by speedtriple@Jul 14 2004, 05:21 PM

Hi guys,

Heard that the spark plug heat range will afffect startup. What is a recommended range? And what is spark plug indexing?

Standrad is CR8EK from NGK. So my guess is "8"

[speedtriple]

Anyone of the gixxer fellas change their own spark plugs b4? Is it simple? May need to DIY if bike cannot start.

[ichiro]

Originally posted by speedtriple@Jul 28 2004, 11:36 PM

Anyone of the gixxer fellas change their own spark plugs b4? Is it simple? May need to DIY if bike cannot start.

that you can ask peter, lol,

[donutBoy]

changing of the plugs is a relatively easy process if you have the proper length spark plug tool

 

the left-most and right most plugs are pretty easy to remove/replace but the center two plugs are quite a b.i.t.c.h to reach cos the recess is quite deep. not to mention the bike frame resticting movement.

 

If can get yer hands on a plug wrench with a universal head and a long handle then you can get the jobbie done in 15mins with time for a good cuppa after tat

If not, a size 16 deep well socket, a ratchet extension and a ratchet will do, but need some kung-fu to get the center two plugs

 

Having a mate to help you remove/assemble the fuel tank helps(especially if yer tank is full)

 

Cheers!

 

PS: not necessary to remove the tank if you wanna get to the left outer and right outer plugs only

[TnT]

Originally posted by tracky@Jul 29 2004, 09:50 AM

changing of the plugs is a relatively easy process if you have the proper length spark plug tool

 

the left-most and right most plugs are pretty easy to remove/replace but the center two plugs are quite a b.i.t.c.h to reach cos the recess is quite deep. not to mention the bike frame resticting movement.

 

If can get yer hands on a plug wrench with a universal head and a long handle then you can get the jobbie done in 15mins with time for a good cuppa after tat

If not, a size 16 deep well socket, a ratchet extension and a ratchet will do, but need some kung-fu to get the center two plugs

 

Having a mate to help you remove/assemble the fuel tank helps(especially if yer tank is full)

 

Cheers!

 

PS: not necessary to remove the tank if you wanna get to the left outer and right outer plugs only

Beri clear information.....

 

The size 16 socket get all those for spark plug one as it will stick your plug with you remove or installing it (Remember not to drop the spark plugs into the hole as it will damage or nearer the spark plug clearance) ...KTC brand for the spark plug socket is selling @ around $15 to $16.

 

Change of spark plugs is quite easiler with the information that tracky given.

 

[TnT]

For your information only.

 

Spark plugs are one of the most misunderstood components of an engine. Numerous questions have surfaced over the years, leaving many people confused.

 

This guide was designed to assist the technician, hobbyist, or race mechanic in understanding, using, and troubleshooting spark plugs. The information contained in this guide applies to all types of internal combustion engines: two stroke engines, rotary engines, high performance/racing engines and street vehicles.

 

 

Spark plugs are the "window" into your engine (your only eyewitness to the combustion chamber), and can be used as a valuable diagnostic tool. Like a patient's thermometer, the spark plug displays symptoms and conditions of the engine's performance. The experienced tuner can analyze these symptoms to track down the root cause of many problems, or to determine air/fuel ratios.

 

SPARK PLUG BASICS:

The spark plug has two primary functions:

 

To ignite the air/fuel mixture

To remove heat from the combustion chamber

Spark plugs transmit electrical energy that turns fuel into working energy. A sufficient amount of voltage must be supplied by the ignition system to cause it to spark across the spark plug's gap. This is called "Electrical Performance."

 

The temperature of the spark plug's firing end must be kept low enough to prevent pre-ignition, but high enough to prevent fouling. This is called "Thermal Performance", and is determined by the heat range selected.

 

It is important to remember that spark plugs do not create heat, they can only remove heat. The spark plug works as a heat exchanger by pulling unwanted thermal energy away from the combustion chamber, and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling system. The heat range is defined as a plug's ability to dissipate heat.

 

The rate of heat transfer is determined by:

 

*The insulator nose length

*Gas volume around the insulator nose

*The materials/construction of the center electrode and porcelain insulator

 

A spark plug's heat range has no relationship to the actual voltage transferred though the spark plug. Rather, the heat range is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several factors; the length of the ceramic center insulator nose and its' ability to absorb and transfer combustion heat, the material composition of the insulator and center electrode material.

 

Heat rating and heat flow path of NGK Spark Plugs

 

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/images/chartheatratingflowpath.gif

 

The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling. Whether the spark plugs are fitted in a lawnmower, boat, or a race car, the spark plug tip temperature must remain between 500C-850°C. If the tip temperature is lower than 500°C, the insulator area surrounding the center electrode will not be hot enough to burn off carbon and combustion chamber deposits. These accumulated deposits can result in spark plug fouling leading to misfire. If the tip temperature is higher than 850°C the spark plug will overheat which may cause the ceramic around the center electrode to blister and the electrodes to melt. This may lead to pre-ignition/detonation and expensive engine damage. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one heat range to the next is the ability to remove approximately 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. A projected style spark plug firing tip temperature is increased by 10°C to 20°C.

 

Tip Temperature and Firing End Appearance

 

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/images/charttempfiringend.gif

 

The firing end appearance also depends on the spark plug tip temperature. There are three basic diagnostic criteria for spark plugs: good, fouled and overheated. The borderline between the fouling and optimum operating regions (500&def;C) is called the spark plug self-cleaning temperature. The temperature at this point is where the accumulated carbon and combustion deposits are burned off.

 

Bearing in mind that the insulator nose length is a determining factor in the heat range of a spark plug, the longer the insulator nose, the less heat is absorbed, and the further the heat must travel into the cylinder head water journals. This means the plug has a higher internal temperature, and is said to be a hot plug. A hot spark plug maintains a higher internal operating temperature to burn off oil and carbon deposits, and has no relationship to spark quality or intensity.

 

Conversely, a cold spark plug has a shorter insulator nose and absorbs more combustion chamber heat. This heat travels a shorter distance, and allows the plug to operate at a lower internal temperature. A colder heat range is necessary when the engine is modified for performance, subjected to heavy loads, or is run at high rpms for a significant period of time. The colder type removes heat more quickly, and will reduce the chance of pre-ignition/detonation and melting or damage to the firing end. (Engine temperature can affect the spark plug's operating temperature, but not the spark plugs heat range).

 

Below is a list of some of the possible external influences on a spark plug's operating temperatures. The following symptoms or conditions may have an effect on the actual temperature of the spark plug. The spark plug cannot create these conditions, but it must be able to cope with the levels of heat...if not, the performance will suffer and engine damage can occur.

 

Air/Fuel Mixtures seriously affect engine performance and spark plug operating temperatures.

 

*Rich air/fuel mixtures cause tip temperature to drop, causing fouling and poor driveability

*Lean air/fuel mixtures cause plug tip and cylinder temperature to increase, resulting in pre-ignition, detonation, and possibly serious spark plug and engine damage

*It is important to read spark plugs many times during the tuning process to achieve the optimum air/ fuel mixture

 

Higher Compression Ratios/Forced Induction will elevate spark plug tip and in-cylinder temperatures

 

*Compression can be increased by performing any one of the following modifications:

a) reducing combustion chamber volume (i.e.: domed pistons, smaller chamber heads, mill ing heads, etc.)

b) adding forced induction (Nitrous, Turbocharging or Supercharging)

c) camshaft change

 

*As compression increases, a colder heat range plug, higher fuel octane, and careful attention to igni-tion timing and air/fuel ratios are necessary. Failure to select a colder spark plug can lead to spark plug/engine damage

 

Advancing Ignition Timing

 

*Advancing ignition timing by 10° causes tip temperature to increase by approx. 70°-100° C

 

Engine Speed and Load

 

*Increases in firing-end temperature are proportional to engine speed and load. When traveling at a consistent high rate of speed, or carrying/pushing very heavy loads, a colder heat range spark plug should be installed

 

Ambient Air Temperature

 

*As air temperature falls, air density/air volume becomes greater, resulting in leaner air/fuel mixtures.

*This creates higher cylinder pressures/temperatures and causes an increase in the spark plug's tip temperature. So, fuel delivery should be increased.

*As temperature increases, air density decreases, as does intake volume, and fuel delivery should be decreased

 

Humidity

 

*As humidity increases, air intake volume decreases

*Result is lower combustion pressures and temperatures, causing a decrease in the spark plug's tem-perature and a reduction in available power.

*Air/fuel mixture should be leaner, depending upon ambient temperature.

 

Barometric Pressure/Altitude

 

*Also affects the spark plug's tip temperature

*The higher the altitude, the lower cylinder pressure becomes. As the cylinder temperature de-creases, so does the plug tip temperature

*Many mechanics attempt to "chase" tuning by changing spark plug heat ranges

*The real answer is to adjust jetting or air/fuel mixtures in an effort to put more air back into the en-gine

 

Types of Abnormal Combustion

 

Pre-ignition

 

*Defined as: ignition of the air/fuel mixture before the pre-set ignition timing mark

*Caused by hot spots in the combustion chamber...can be caused

(or amplified) by over advanced timing, too hot a spark plug, low octane fuel, lean air/fuel mixture, too high compression, or insufficient engine cooling

*A change to a higher octane fuel, a colder plug, richer fuel mixture,

or lower compression may be in order

*You may also need to retard ignition timing, and check vehicle's cooling system

*Pre-ignition usually leads to detonation; pre-ignition an detonation are two separate events

 

Detonation

 

*The spark plug's worst enemy! (Besides fouling)

*Can break insulators or break off ground electrodes

*Pre-ignition most often leads to detonation

*Plug tip temperatures can spike to over 3000°F during the combustion process (in a racing engine)

*Most frequently caused by hot spots in the combustion chamber.

Hot spots will allow the air/fuel mixture to pre-ignite. As the piston is being forced upward by mechanical action of the connecting rod, the pre-ignited explosion will try to force the piston downward. If the piston can't go up (because of the force of the premature explosion) and it can't go down (because of the upward mo-tion of the connecting rod), the piston will rattle from side to side. The resulting shock wave causes an audible pinging sound. This is detonation.

*Most of the damage than an engine sustains when "detonating" is from excessive heat

*The spark plug is damaged by both the elevated temperatures and the accompanying shock wave, or concussion

 

Misfires

 

*A spark plug is said to have misfired when enough voltage has not been delivered to light off all fuel present in the combustion chamber at the proper moment of the power stroke (a few degrees before top dead center)

*A spark plug can deliver a weak spark (or no spark at all) for a variety of reasons...defective coil, too much compression with incorrect

plug gap, dry fouled or wet fouled spark plugs, insufficient ignition timing, etc.

*Slight misfires can cause a loss of performance for obvious reasons (if fuel is not lit, no energy is be-ing created)

*Severe misfires will cause poor fuel economy, poor driveability, and can lead to engine damage

 

Fouling

 

*Will occur when spark plug tip temperature is insufficient to burn off carbon, fuel, oil or other deposits

*Will cause spark to leach to metal shell...no spark across plug gap will cause a misfire

*Wet-fouled spark plugs must be changed...spark plugs will not fire

*Dry-fouled spark plugs can sometimes be cleaned by bringing engine up to operating temperature

*Before changing fouled spark plugs, be sure to eliminate root

cause of fouling

[donutBoy]

Hi all,

 

Jus got meself a pair of heavier balancers to replace the cheapo aluminium ends by the previous owner.

 

Anyway, kinda stumped from as to how to put them in

 

I've got the balancer, a long screw, a washer, a nut and one piece of cylindrical rubber.

 

Is the cylindrical piece of rubber supposed to be tight fitting with the handlebar hole? cos my new ones are not, way way smaller.

The existing ones are though.

 

How does the balancers stay attached to the handle bar. Simply by the cylindrical rubber being tight fitting to the handlebar? Or there is a nut inside the handle bar that the long screw attaches itself to?

 

no cam so cannot take pic...anyway,

this is how my I set up the new balancers....

 

red - balancer weight

green - washer

blue - rubber thingy

yellow - nut

black - screw that goes thru all the components.

 

Am i setting it up correctly? or do i need to get a bigger piece of the rubber cylinder to fit the handle?

[donutBoy]

was looking at the existing balancers....the nut seems to be driven way way into the rubber thingy...

i supposed i had to start tightening the nut to compress the rubber thingy so that it will expand out. anyway, did tat...now all seems good

 

hahaha...sorry for the stupid questions...my first time changing bar ends :sweat:

[Arcfire]

Hey guys, juz realised that my headlights do not brighten up when i rev my bike but they actually become dimmer when i rev.....does that mean anything? like my batt gonna spoil or rec n mag coil gone kaput?

[roger]

Originally posted by Arcfire@Aug 5 2004, 06:00 PM

Hey guys, juz realised that my headlights do not brighten up when i rev my bike but they actually become dimmer when i rev.....does that mean anything? like my batt gonna spoil or rec n mag coil gone kaput?

hmm.. sounds like a faulty rectifier...??

[donutBoy]

Originally posted by Arcfire@Aug 5 2004, 06:00 PM

Hey guys, juz realised that my headlights do not brighten up when i rev my bike but they actually become dimmer when i rev.....does that mean anything? like my batt gonna spoil or rec n mag coil gone kaput?

go grab yer trusty voltmeter and check out the batt voltage while electrics are on(engine not started), at idle and when revving.

 

If not up to spec(12+V when idle, 14+ when revving) then yer wiring from the rectifier for any loose connections. If no loose connections then may need to see if yer rect is going kaput.

 

If you dun have access to a voltmeter at the moment, keep a look out at yer neutral/indicator lights on the dash...if they grow dim then best to find a place to stop if you're on the move. you dun wanna get stranded on the expressway...sucky experience

[Arcfire]

Originally posted by tracky@Aug 5 2004, 06:55 PM

go grab yer trusty voltmeter and check out the batt voltage while electrics are on(engine not started), at idle and when revving.

 

If not up to spec(12+V when idle, 14+ when revving) then yer wiring from the rectifier for any loose connections. If no loose connections then may need to see if yer rect is going kaput.

 

If you dun have access to a voltmeter at the moment, keep a look out at yer neutral/indicator lights on the dash...if they grow dim then best to find a place to stop if you're on the move. you dun wanna get stranded on the expressway...sucky experience

Juz checked my batt voltage using a voltmeter, it was about 12+V before starting the engine, ~12.5V after i juz started but it began to slowly climb up to abt 13.2V during idling. Then when i rev my engine, it climbed up to abt 13.5 - 13.6V n juz remained at that voltage........so what might be the problem now?

[FieryGiX]

Originally posted by Arcfire@Aug 6 2004, 12:11 PM

Juz checked my batt voltage using a voltmeter, it was about 12+V before starting the engine, ~12.5V after i juz started but it began to slowly climb up to abt 13.2V during idling. Then when i rev my engine, it climbed up to abt 13.5 - 13.6V n juz remained at that voltage........so what might be the problem now?

Min 12.8V

REv to 5k

13.5 - 14.5V

 

Check the rectifier wiring for frays and clean the contacts. Sometimes a faulty connection will cause voltage to decrease instead of increase when rev.

[speedtriple]

thanks TNT for the info on the plugs. recently when i turned my key, there was no neutral light, bike also cannot start. I went to Planet to get a new batt and changed it. After that got neutral light liao but electric start cannot fire up the bike. Is it due to spark plugs? Apart from DIY on the plugs and pushstart the bike, are there any other solutions?

[R3sistor]

hmm.. this great bike.. sadly its kinda old.. Actually it fits my budget for a 2A.. Just scare i get a bad one and spend too much money repairing it.

Generally.. i read in the GSXR400 thread that this bike got a retificer and battery fried up problem.

On the general, how much would it cost to replace retificer and battery?

And also rewiring(since this bike is old liao).

I can afford few hundreds.. maybe less than $400 for repairs.

Maybe someone kind enough could fill me up on this.

Also this is probably my last upgrade for now. Will be going army next year.. probably during june or july.

Thus, i need this bike to last me at least 3-4 years. Wonder if it can last that long?

I've actually asked my motorshop how much an overhaul for gsx would cost. Its actually by the thousands.. not worth the trouble.

Been pondering over GSXR or CBR hurricane.

[wadthefart]

sparks plug for GSXR400!!!

 

 

how much does a volt meter cost???