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Posted

hehehe hans.. lucky chap arr u!! got an expensive raincoat!! was hoping to win that raincoat when i bought the fuel additive. hahahaha indeed a gd experience to attend the fuchs seminar.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG-4077.jpg

Previous Rides: RXK 135, S4 Project Big 1, S4 Vtec1, ST1100 Pan European, Cbr954, K7 600, FJR1300 ABS, SilverWing FJS 400.

Current Rides: FIT 1.3 GF MoonRoof.

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Posted
Originally posted by uberstore@March 07, 2007 09:40 am

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b349/Uberstore/amsoillogo_iso1.gif

 

Get your Amsoil Synthetic Oil at

 

Magic Motowerx

 

Blk 1002 Lor 8 Toa Payoh Ind Park

#01-1437 Singapore 319074

Tel: 63531792

 

 

http://www.cruxoil.com/sitebuilder/images/10W40-149x300.jpg http://www.cruxoil.com/sitebuilder/images/20W50-149x300.jpg

 

Specifications

 

 

 

 

 

Specifications

no price-list to the different EO products Amsoil offer?????

http://martymcfry.com/images/limpdick2.jpg

'01 - Honda Repsol

'03 - Honda Super Four VTec Spec II

'04 - Honda ST1100 Pan European

'05 - Yamaha FJR1300A (FAVORITE!! Best Ride ever!!)

'09 - Vespa GTS300 Super

'12 - Yamaha FZ1-N

Future - Kymco Downtown 350i, Xciting 400 or T-Max 530?

Posted
Originally posted by ANR Impex@March 07, 2007 09:31 pm

Yup, it works great for 06R6 as per our conversation earlier on.

hi , presntly using the extra 15/50 ... find my bike engine is very warm , is the oil that i'm using is too thick ? What grade should i use for my bike cbr954 ?

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s190/redsuns74/FP3762J-1_zps552ea30c.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by Hikaru@March 16, 2007 11:29 am

hi , presntly using the extra 15/50 ... find my bike engine is very warm , is the oil that i'm using is too thick ? What grade should i use for my bike cbr954 ?

What's the oil (type and viscosity) you're previously using and was it warmer or cooler? I know the latest CBR models can take really thin grades, but I don't have enough information on the 954. Perhaps you can try the Ultra 5W50, it is a popular inbetween viscosity. I rode one before and my impression is that it is rather hot.

Posted
Originally posted by ANR Impex@March 16, 2007 01:07 pm

What's the oil (type and viscosity) you're previously using and was it warmer or cooler? I know the latest CBR models can take really thin grades, but I don't have enough information on the 954. Perhaps you can try the Ultra 5W50, it is a popular inbetween viscosity. I rode one before and my impression is that it is rather hot.

Im using 15W 50 Maxima for my x9 is it too thick...

Posted
Originally posted by ANR Impex@March 16, 2007 01:07 pm

What's the oil (type and viscosity) you're previously using and was it warmer or cooler? I know the latest CBR models can take really thin grades, but I don't have enough information on the 954. Perhaps you can try the Ultra 5W50, it is a popular inbetween viscosity. I rode one before and my impression is that it is rather hot.

The bike is generally hot but since changing to the present oil is running even hotter. Previously was using R4 , not too sure about the grade should be 10w50 i think . So you sugguest to try ultra 5w50 which is more suitable for my bike.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s190/redsuns74/FP3762J-1_zps552ea30c.jpg
Guest enHANZed
Posted
Originally posted by FunkyChicken@March 16, 2007 01:04 am

hehehe hans.. lucky chap arr u!! got an expensive raincoat!! was hoping to win that raincoat when i bought the fuel additive. hahahaha indeed a gd experience to attend the fuchs seminar.

its actually planned ...did u see i bought many bottles ? cause i know the entries are low so i will have a higher chance if i submit more

Posted
Originally posted by Hikaru@March 16, 2007 05:06 pm

The bike is generally hot but since changing to the present oil is running even hotter. Previously was using R4 , not too sure about the grade should be 10w50 i think . So you sugguest to try ultra 5w50 which is more suitable for my bike.

R4 itself, although a 10W50 grade, thins down rather quickly. How fast did you change it out and how did you like the performance of the oil thru the interval of the oil used (1st 1K good, 3K terrible for example). This will help me understand your bike's sweetspot better.

 

The reason I usually lean my recommendations towards a thicker oil when in doubt is because most bikes are very sensitive to thin oils (poor shifting, noisy etc) in our hot weather and heavy traffic. This may be mistaken for signs that the oil is bad, when in fact, you just used too thin a grade to begin with. Maxima makes some rather thin 40 grades and so far, only a handful of the late model sportbikes are known to actually prefer this over thicker 50 grades for street use.

 

Yes, a hotter running temp is a natural downside of a thicker oil, but it sure beats shitty shifting when caught in a traffic jam where you have to keep changing gears.

 

For the rest of you guys who want some recommendations, please state what oil(s) you previously used on the machine(as much info as possible) and other details mentioned above. If you can only guess what you used before, then my recommendations will be as accurate as your guess. This is because each model varies and so does the rider preference, it will be impossible to match without accurate feedback.

 

I have riders who have given me very specific info and we custom blended different grades of the same oil to the exact operating viscosity, the results are great.

Posted
Originally posted by VoLcAnO@March 16, 2007 05:27 pm

Im riding a Zx10r 04 model, currently running Maxima 15w50 ( if im not wrong) . Is 5w40 worth a try?

Im using 15W 50 Maxima for my x9 is it too thick...

 

If you guys feel the Extra 15W50 is too thick and used to like 10W50 oils, you can try the Ultra 5W50.

 

The reason I say this is because the 10W50 grades typically thin down very quickly, effectively becoming something like a 10W40 grade for most of the life in your bike, before it thins so much that it becomes rough.

 

The Ultra 5W50 is a thin (very close to 10W40) yet highly shear resistant grade that can give the responsiveness of a thin oil and the endurance of a thick oil. It is also the preferred grade that many of my sportbiker kakis and I use. You can throw lots of track sessions at it and commute with this grade.

 

The Maxima Extra 10W40 and Ultra 5W40 tend to be rather thin 40, many bikes are sensitive to such low viscosity when used in hot weather and slow traffic. Only some models like CBR600RR/CBR1000RR/06R6/GSXR K6 known to work well with this thin oils even in daily applications.

Posted
Originally posted by ANR Impex@March 17, 2007 03:42 am

R4 itself, although a 10W50 grade, thins down rather quickly. How fast did you change it out and how did you like the performance of the oil thru the interval of the oil used (1st 1K good, 3K terrible for example). This will help me understand your bike's sweetspot better.

 

The reason I usually lean my recommendations towards a thicker oil when in doubt is because most bikes are very sensitive to thin oils (poor shifting, noisy etc) in our hot weather and heavy traffic. This may be mistaken for signs that the oil is bad, when in fact, you just used too thin a grade to begin with. Maxima makes some rather thin 40 grades and so far, only a handful of the late model sportbikes are known to actually prefer this over thicker 50 grades for street use.

 

Yes, a hotter running temp is a natural downside of a thicker oil, but it sure beats shitty shifting when caught in a traffic jam where you have to keep changing gears.

 

For the rest of you guys who want some recommendations, please state what oil(s) you previously used on the machine(as much info as possible) and other details mentioned above. If you can only guess what you used before, then my recommendations will be as accurate as your guess. This is because each model varies and so does the rider preference, it will be impossible to match without accurate feedback.

 

I have riders who have given me very specific info and we custom blended different grades of the same oil to the exact operating viscosity, the results are great.

Yup the R4 at first was great but when it hits almost 3k milage the gear shifting starts to get stiff. After that at warmer temp. it will get even more harder to shift gear.

 

After changing to extra 15w50 , early morning start to warm up the bike the temp. will get up more faster . But shifting of gear is smooth .And first i wanted to try the 5w50 but after hearing alot saying that is not suitable for older bike (4 yrs old ) so decided to go for 15w50. Because they say will cause clutch slip . But i have just change my clutch plates ( 2 months old ) .

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s190/redsuns74/FP3762J-1_zps552ea30c.jpg
Posted

i don't like castrol R4, slickness/smoothness didn't last after couple of weeks.

it did not contain PAO (group IV) or ester (group V) ingredients.

have not seen any print on it's label with PAO, ester or polyester.

Posted
Originally posted by Hikaru@March 17, 2007 03:42 pm

Yup the R4 at first was great but when it hits almost 3k milage the gear shifting starts to get stiff. After that at warmer temp. it will get even more harder to shift gear.

 

After changing to extra 15w50 , early morning start to warm up the bike the temp. will get up more faster . But shifting of gear is smooth .And first i wanted to try the 5w50 but after hearing alot saying that is not suitable for older bike (4 yrs old ) so decided to go for 15w50. Because they say will cause clutch slip . But i have just change my clutch plates ( 2 months old ) .

It is a misconception that it is not suitable for old bikes. Alot of misconceptions floating around about thin oil and old bikes. The number 1 reason why people put thicker oil into older bikes (we're talking 10yrs and up) is to help with oil burning from worn out piston rings. If a clutch is slipping, change the clutch plates. Maxima is JASO MA, hence meets all wet clutch requirements.

Posted
Originally posted by ANR Impex@March 17, 2007 09:13 pm

It is a misconception that it is not suitable for old bikes. Alot of misconceptions floating around about thin oil and old bikes. The number 1 reason why people put thicker oil into older bikes (we're talking 10yrs and up) is to help with oil burning from worn out piston rings. If a clutch is slipping, change the clutch plates. Maxima is JASO MA, hence meets all wet clutch requirements.

Thanks for the information . The next oil change will give 5w50 a try.:smile:

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s190/redsuns74/FP3762J-1_zps552ea30c.jpg
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Originally posted by Lao_yang@April 02, 2007 04:29 am

will be goin for my first EO change tis coming sat....my manual stated to chage to a 10w40 oil...so u guys tink i should follow it?

 

anyway my ride is a gsr 400...

What's your current fill (viscosity) and how do you like it?

 

The manual usually states 10W40 and that's the recommended for the engine. However with shared transmission and the hotter climate here, grades like 15W50, 10W50 and 5W50 are popular. The specific grade that gives the best performance is often bike dependant and to a certain extent, rider preference, so you may need some experimenting for a new bike. No problems running 50 weights, just avoid 60wt oils for Jap 4 stroke engines.

Posted

after changing from 15w50 to 5w50 ... bike is riding cooler, temperature drop faster . Thanks :smile:

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s190/redsuns74/FP3762J-1_zps552ea30c.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by Lao_yang@April 02, 2007 04:29 am

will be goin for my first EO change tis coming sat....my manual stated to chage to a 10w40 oil...so u guys tink i should follow it?

 

anyway my ride is a gsr 400...

Generally speaking, there is no harm following the recommendations from the manufacturer. Although you have to note that although different manufacturers place their product in the various grade groupings ( eg 10W40, 15W50 etc ), the performance for each oil type varies. Eg Brand A 10W40 might not perform as well As Brand B 10W40 based on the application of the rider using it.

 

We shall not discuss the topic on formulation here ( base oil plus additives ) as definitely there is a difference.

 

Its like Nasi Lemak. The question on why Nasi Lemak International at Changi is said to be alot tastier than others in the same hawker centre while noting the queue it forms during lunch and dinner hours. Im pretty sure the auntie wont tell you what goes into her famous sambal.

 

You have many brands to choose from. Maxima, Silkolene, Motul, Castrol. Once you choose a brand, stick to it unless you are willing to give other brands a chance to prove their worth on your bike.

 

However switching from Brand A to Brand B and gathering your feedback on just one oil change will not provide you the accurate result. Try using it for 3-4 oil changes and note the effect it has on your daily ride.

Posted
Originally posted by mtyw8888@March 16, 2007 05:05 pm

Im using 15W 50 Maxima for my x9 is it too thick...

 

Thick is a relatively difficult question to answer.

 

I'd probably ask you the following questions :

 

Does your bike seem to lag ?

Does the acceleration seem slower after using this oil weight ? ( irregardless of brand )

Does your fuel consumption seem higher ?

Does the engine seem hotter than normal ? (coolant factor aside)

 

If your answers are mostly "YES", I'd probably recommend a step lower in weight. You might want to try 5W40 or 10W40 with the same brand or other commercially available ones in the market.

Posted
Originally posted by Hikaru@March 17, 2007 03:42 pm

Yup the R4 at first was great but when it hits almost 3k milage the gear shifting starts to get stiff. After that at warmer temp. it will get even more harder to shift gear.

Yup Bro... I totally agreed with you. As a result I switched over to Silkolene Pro4 10W40 and occasionally Pro4 Plus 10W50 on my previous FZ1. No complaints over it. In fact one the few fazers with good FC. 330km to 340km before hitting reserve.Gelang patah to Sungei toll Besi (just before KL) on one fuel tank.

 

Running Pro4 Plus 10w50 in my R6 now while waiting for Silkolene to import in the 5W40 version. Verdict... Im enjoying the ride... Thats most important.

Posted

Guys, I have been using Esso Gold 4T for the past one year. Would like to try either Maxima or Silkolene E.O. So how do I know which one (irregardless of brand) to use? I am riding CBR 400.

FORMERLY KNOWN AS DEATHINC2004

 

If you train hard, you'll not only be hard, you'll be hard to beat.

 

 

New MO Thread for Bike Alarms coming soon!

Posted

For the older bikes, a 15W50 grade will help if you are experiencing oil consumption. Else can try Ultra 5W50 grade which is really a thick 5W40.

Posted
Originally posted by ashzibit_69@April 06, 2007 03:35 am

Guys, I have been using Esso Gold 4T for the past one year. Would like to try either Maxima or Silkolene E.O. So how do I know which one (irregardless of brand) to use? I am riding CBR 400.

 

Most oil manufacturers have general recomendations based on application ( road, race ) but the most of the time, the rider would be in a better position to tell what works best based on the vibrations, FC and performance as a benchmark. No two bikes are the same.

 

SO in short, you need to trial and error. Most heavier weight oils (50) would do the job but the downside is the bike feels abit sluggish although smooth. So weigh out your engine condition versus what you actually use the bike for.

 

The correct oil for your bike or any bike for that matter depends on the application it is being used for (here we are excluding the engine condition and age).

 

If specifications are your worry, then my answer is that popular brands have easily matched the JASO-MA and API/ACEA standards. They are also wet clutch friendly.

 

A good way of starting off is to use the same grade ( ie 5w40, 10w40 ) of oil you were previously on. Pick a brand. With the increase in competitive pricing versus technology, oil has come along way from where it was donkey years ago. So you can rest assure that whatever the popular brand you choose to put in your bike, the technology is already there.

 

Now what are you waiting for.... Pick a brand and try.... :)

Posted
Originally posted by enHANZed@March 04, 2007 01:48 pm

been & back from fuch's seminar ....seems like they are leaning towards low vicosity as they claims it provides more lubricity and able to conserve fuel therefore .... he (Dr. something something from Fuch ) also recommends 10W40W for singpaores's climate .

 

One point i learnt from the seminar is that a thinner vicosity oil has a better ability to prevent "start up" wear , which is the time where most wear occurs. Thinner oils also bring temp. down which is beneficial to singapore's climate .

 

Buyers also need to becareful of "fake" oils as whats printed on the labels may not be whats in the bottle. Go for reputable brands and u wont go wrong

 

Overall great seminar , prizes to be won , buffet spread , great deals on octane boosters (fuch pro boost S) , screening of extended version of " speed on two wheels" . I myself won a pair of tickets to catch ghost rider ( weekdays only though) and a set of RS Tachi Dry Master Rain coast.

If you are in the oil industry, its really easy to spot a fake or rather what I call "a mis-information of critical user data".

 

There's alot of brands popping up in the market recently probably due to our country's position with petrochemical products and blending facilities.

 

Additive companies are all over the place as well but the main content are the base oil providers themselves which we already know who. Base oils aint cheap fyi.

 

Companies like these normally use price as a bait. However like they say, you pay peanuts, dont expect a gorilla to come to you. There is definitely a catch. But if regular consumers are willing to pay the price for cheaper oils at the expense of their frequent engine breakdown and poor maintenance schedule, then I guess they need to prepare their spreadsheets after a 5year period to tabulate their losses.

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