Honda NSR150SP Riders

[FireGunz]

Of course bro. Initially u press the desired pressure to chg at the pump machine. For me i do it at essomobil kiosks. I always indicate "200". Unit is of course kpa hor. Then u plug the "head of the air nozzle" to yr tyre nozzle. So initially n immediately u put in u will c the initial tyre pressure at the machine screen. For example i alwys hav 190-205 when i start to pump air into my tyre. Then the pump machine will regulate the air pressure to meet yr desired press indicated on the screen. Tis is v useful s when u c the initial pressure, u will knw if u had nail in yr tyre. I was saved many times by doing so when i chk my car Tyre pressure every time i top up my petrol. S soon s u c an abnormal pressure readings u shld send yr tyres for chks b4 u had a flat while riding or driving. For riders it is v impt to chk yr tyre pressure s u wont knw when u had a nail in it.

Ok bro, thank for the tips.

 

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[sporeknight]

" I always indicate "200". Unit is of course kpa hor.

 

Sori for typo. I always charge 220kpa to my bike, nt 200.

[FireGunz]

Sori for typo. I always charge 220kpa to my bike, nt 200.

Noted. Thank...

 

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[Sethyeo]

Hi all, I need advice from fellow riders. Got my SP for 2 Months already, last month I sent it for fork repair/servicing and raised back to almost stock height, suspension also, changed tyres, steering cones, brake pads, exhaust, stopped the 2t pump, changed coolant and gear transmission oil. Currently my front brake lever is using 110cc cubs brake lever(according to mechanic). Was thinking of changing back to stock front brake, is it worth it for me to go further to change both my front and rear brake hose and the disc? Also, my friend advice me to do a full service on the engine since I don't know when is the last overhaul/full service is done. He said that change worn out one by one is better then changing a few things in one shot cause there will be a higher risk things will break down faster(don't really understand what he trying to imply). He also pointed out that I should not drag my RPM before I change gear as this kind of riding will wear out the engine and gearbox easily. I normally throttle to 7.5k RPM before i up shift and when I move off, I will need to half clutch for few meters before i can feel the engine and clutch fully engaged(this is worst when I have pillion.) Tried adjusting the clutch to a few position, problem still persist. Can anyone help advice? Thanks a lot in advance.

[Stardust83]

Wow ! 1 of the more active thread in the SBF. Good Afternoon ! W4M still ard ar !

[Heathx]

Hi bro, this method is apply for "Pre-Mix" (2T that pour into petrol tank). Right?

 

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Yes, that is premix.

 

Hi all, I need advice from fellow riders. Got my SP for 2 Months already, last month I sent it for fork repair/servicing and raised back to almost stock height, suspension also, changed tyres, steering cones, brake pads, exhaust, stopped the 2t pump, changed coolant and gear transmission oil. Currently my front brake lever is using 110cc cubs brake lever(according to mechanic). Was thinking of changing back to stock front brake, is it worth it for me to go further to change both my front and rear brake hose and the disc? Also, my friend advice me to do a full service on the engine since I don't know when is the last overhaul/full service is done. He said that change worn out one by one is better then changing a few things in one shot cause there will be a higher risk things will break down faster(don't really understand what he trying to imply). He also pointed out that I should not drag my RPM before I change gear as this kind of riding will wear out the engine and gearbox easily. I normally throttle to 7.5k RPM before i up shift and when I move off, I will need to half clutch for few meters before i can feel the engine and clutch fully engaged(this is worst when I have pillion.) Tried adjusting the clutch to a few position, problem still persist. Can anyone help advice? Thanks a lot in advance.

 

NSR150SP is a racing bike. if it'll spoil at high rpm, then it's a really lousy racing bike liao... It's made to perform at 9-10k rpm with ease. The only reason high rpm will spoil the bike is because the engine or clutch is not in good condition in the first place.

 

I don't know how much you have to spare on servicing, but if money is not an issue, you can do your braking system and service your engine at the same time, might as well. If money is an issue, then do your brakes first, more important. Disc don't need to change if it's still thick and not warped. You should always do a servicing after you get new bike, then u can see and understand the health of the engine, or if any engine parts need replacement.

 

Your issue with clutch when moving off may be due to clutch plate worn out already.

[Sethyeo]

So servicing as in take out parts of the engines by mech and evaluate which part to replace?

[FireGunz]

So servicing as in take out parts of the engines by mech and evaluate which part to replace?

Hi Sethyeo, welcome to SP world.

Regarding about the servicing there is few type of it (to me). e.g: change E.O (Engine Oil or another word as call Gear Oil) that is normal service without take out any inner part of your engine. Just unscrew the nut to release the old gear oil & refill the new gear oil by mech.

 

If take out part that kind of stuff to clean mostly call "Full" / "Top" service (depends that shop mech they and what to clean it. which you need to check with the mech).

 

To me, before going further more about clutch thing (to my experience that if recently when get the bike from the previous owner)... 1st thing is to check it. Did you change the E.O (that will cost around $2+ - $3+ depend brand or the package from Mech), seem after you get the bike about 2 month (how many mileage did you rode).

 

If haven't done, then you might change it & see the occur still persist. If yes, the "might be" the clutch plate...

 

Hi Seniors, please correct it if I'm wrong.

 

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[sporeknight]

Hi Sethyeo, welcome to SP world.

Regarding about the servicing there is few type of it (to me). e.g: change E.O (Engine Oil or another word as call Gear Oil) that is normal service without take out any inner part of your engine. Just unscrew the nut to release the old gear oil & refill the new gear oil by mech.

 

If take out part that kind of stuff to clean mostly call "Full" / "Top" service (depends that shop mech they and what to clean it. which you need to check with the mech).

 

To me, before going further more about clutch thing (to my experience that if recently when get the bike from the previous owner)... 1st thing is to check it. Did you change the E.O (that will cost around $2+ - $3+ depend brand or the package from Mech), seem after you get the bike about 2 month (how many mileage did you rode).

 

If haven't done, then you might change it & see the occur still persist. If yes, the "might be" the clutch plate...

 

Hi Seniors, please correct it if I'm wrong.

 

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Yup, totally agree. Alwys do a norm svc (chg EO) 1st s u dono HW long yr EO is. Then chk on yr brake pads, brake fluid n coolant. Spark plug if poss chg new one too, v cheap. So the time u ride yr bike, all the fluids is new. Ez to troubleshoot if anything wrong in future. Then nxt thing is chk yr tyres, fork n chain. If tyre botak, mus chg. If still can use, use lo. Bike v cheap n economical to maintain provided no mech or electrical prob. But the EO price u mention $2+ or $3+, EO gt so cheap?

Norm packaging also abt 8$+.

[Sethyeo]

Haha Thanks..

 

Actually I only know my mech just did a E.O change which in another word he claimed is called gear oil changing. So far I rode less then 1k within a month after a major repair with reference to my previous posts. He said he did basic servicing, which i suspect the spark plug also changed, tighten some bolts and nuts all those and thats all ba. Cause I went online to see those full service package, they have things like alignments, brake pad checks, change coolant etc... I don't think his full service will includes as many stuff. By the way I thinking of just doing a thorough servicing like polish and change parts if needed and decarbon belly exhaust since new exhaust end plus basic stuff like changing e.o and fluids, which I dont know how much it cost. And hoping to change to cheapest brembo front brake which the mech said is almost 100 more then the original sp brake, which may total up to 400 which include worksmanship and parts. Alsohave to get the engine and clutch checked by mech also.

[FireGunz]

Yup, totally agree. Alwys do a norm svc (chg EO) 1st s u dono HW long yr EO is. Then chk on yr brake pads, brake fluid n coolant. Spark plug if poss chg new one too, v cheap. So the time u ride yr bike, all the fluids is new. Ez to troubleshoot if anything wrong in future. Then nxt thing is chk yr tyres, fork n chain. If tyre botak, mus chg. If still can use, use lo. Bike v cheap n economical to maintain provided no mech or electrical prob. But the EO price u mention $2+ or $3+, EO gt so cheap?

Norm packaging also abt 8$+.

Sorry my bad, what I mean just E.O itself only the packaging without other.

 

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[Sethyeo]

OH lolx I see. Anyways I got it checked at the workshop my bike still running ok, only need to change my battery(no sound honk =.="). Also decided to change back to original front brake, also things like brake hoses.

 

Erm, by chance anyone knows how many of these>M6x20MM Philip Screw With Cap bolts

[jbdoggy]

. But the EO price u mention $2+ or $3+, EO gt so cheap?

Norm packaging also abt 8$+.

 

Really ah.... $8 also have??? What brand is that? When i was 1st using gear/transmission oil (supposedly cheaper then engine oil) that one also abt $10 - Castrol Manual GL4 -very heavy duty type gear oil. Now using Castol Power 1 4t EO after clutch replacement in JB, that 1 also abt RM 64.

[sporeknight]

OH lolx I see. Anyways I got it checked at the workshop my bike still running ok, only need to change my battery(no sound honk =.="). Also decided to change back to original front brake, also things like brake hoses.

 

Erm, by chance anyone knows how many of these>M6x20MM Philip Screw With Cap bolts

 

U hav to double cfm whether is yr honk prob or batt condemn oledi. If batt prob, u turn to neutral gear, the green indicator light is faint. N yr headlight initially 10sec bright or totally no light.

 

Regarding HW many screws for fairing, u hav to count yr self la. Some screws look exactly like stock screws but will rust after some time. Orig will last v v long. Any bros knw wher to get the screws tat won't rust so ez?

[sporeknight]

Really ah.... $8 also have??? What brand is that? When i was 1st using gear/transmission oil (supposedly cheaper then engine oil) that one also abt $10 - Castrol Manual GL4 -very heavy duty type gear oil. Now using Castol Power 1 4t EO after clutch replacement in JB, that 1 also abt RM 64.

Bro Firegunz say $2+ $3+ also hav. I also wonder wher gt so cheap? I knw mineral oil 8$ hav. Fully syn EO def more x la. I hav long time Nev chg EO at wkshop oledi. Use balance oil shell helix ultra 5w40 from my car.

[Heathx]

Haha Thanks..

 

Actually I only know my mech just did a E.O change which in another word he claimed is called gear oil changing. So far I rode less then 1k within a month after a major repair with reference to my previous posts. He said he did basic servicing, which i suspect the spark plug also changed, tighten some bolts and nuts all those and thats all ba. Cause I went online to see those full service package, they have things like alignments, brake pad checks, change coolant etc... I don't think his full service will includes as many stuff. By the way I thinking of just doing a thorough servicing like polish and change parts if needed and decarbon belly exhaust since new exhaust end plus basic stuff like changing e.o and fluids, which I dont know how much it cost. And hoping to change to cheapest brembo front brake which the mech said is almost 100 more then the original sp brake, which may total up to 400 which include worksmanship and parts. Alsohave to get the engine and clutch checked by mech also.

 

$100+ usually is engine oil change, piston and block polishing and maybe spark plug change. Definition of servicing really varies from shop to shop. Even if it's same mech, his service for you and service for someone else may be different depending on what you all want. Basically u define what is the terms of the servicing.

 

When getting a new 'old' bike, best is to go to your trusted mech, ask him open up everything and check, everything as in really everything. Engine, gearbox etc. Cos even if your block and piston, clutch plate all new, if your crankshaft has issue, those new parts will spoil fast also. Also check magnet coil, rectifier, battery etc. This first check will be costly in terms of workmanship, but it's the first step to getting to know your bike well, know what things need to watch out or change.

 

Brake pump, if u are spending $400 already, might as well go for the Brembo RCS15. It's about that cost and it is easier to resell. I used R6 stock brembo and i just passed it to the new owner when i sold my SP too. Didn't bother to dekit, hahaha... Just add maybe $200 into the selling price that's all.

 

OH lolx I see. Anyways I got it checked at the workshop my bike still running ok, only need to change my battery(no sound honk =.="). Also decided to change back to original front brake, also things like brake hoses.

 

Erm, by chance anyone knows how many of these>M6x20MM Philip Screw With Cap bolts

 

Screws and bolts, go msia and buy best. Singapore you buy 2 screws and bolts, in JB u can buy 6-8. Anodized aluminium somemore.

 

Bro Firegunz say $2+ $3+ also hav. I also wonder wher gt so cheap? I knw mineral oil 8$ hav. Fully syn EO def more x la. I hav long time Nev chg EO at wkshop oledi. Use balance oil shell helix ultra 5w40 from my car.

 

I think he meant $20+ $30+... lol... unless the engine oil is transparent water based.

[FireGunz]

I think he meant $20+ $30+... lol... unless the engine oil is transparent water based.

 

Hahahaha... yes bro, that what I meant $20.++ $30.++ not $2.++

Sorry for my bad that cause mislead to other.

 

Thanks bro, to correct my mistake.

 

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[FireGunz]

Hi Seniors, does any of you using "Motul 710" (100% synthetic) can use for 2T pump, right? (just want to be confirm) what is the price that you had purchased as I saw right now is $22 per bottle @ Carousell (it will be great, if you know where can get much lesser then that price). As the "Motul 510" is Semi Synthetic can use for 2T pump? Of course, the price around $15 per bottle @ Carousell too.

 

But if "Motul 510" is Semi Synthetic then it seem make no difference that I'm current using it at other brand. also does it possible to mix (Semi & Full Synthetic) both together?

 

The reason of switching over (2T Oil - 100% Synthetic) that SP for normal riding it seem (to me) that still need to roughly hit around 6K - 7K rpm to changing gear (which can feel the power) even without pillion & in long term, if using Semi Synthetic (which is not to encourage hit more then 6K rpm) it might be damage the piston or engine. Right?

 

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Edited August 31, 2015 by FireGunz

[Heathx]

Hi Seniors, does any of you using "Motul 710" (100% synthetic) can use for 2T pump, right? (just want to be confirm) what is the price that you had purchased as I saw right now is $22 per bottle @ Carousell (it will be great, if you know where can get much lesser then that price). As the "Motul 510" is Semi Synthetic can use for 2T pump? Of course, the price around $15 per bottle @ Carousell too.

 

But if "Motul 510" is Semi Synthetic then it seem make no difference that I'm current using it at other brand. also does it possible to mix (Semi & Full Synthetic) both together?

 

The reason of switching over (2T Oil - 100% Synthetic) that SP for normal riding it seem (to me) that still need to roughly hit around 6K - 7K rpm to changing gear (which can feel the power) even without pillion & in long term, if using Semi Synthetic (which is not to encourage hit more then 6K rpm) it might be damage the piston or engine. Right?

 

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710 can use for pump. 800 is too thick to use for the pump, have to premix. 710 is good enough. but if you pamper and dun mind going premix route, then 800 is jin shiok... Both are anti smoke formula, so if your ratio is 1:50, there should not be problem with NEA unless they in bad mood.

 

2T is 1 cent money 1 cent goods. Buy better 2T, your bike lubrication will be better and less problem in future. As for pricing, it's the same price as iRide SG. I get my 2T from him cos his is one of the most competitive prices, and he sells Motul 800 too. lol...

[jbdoggy]

$22 for 710?? So good ah? Normally i heard its around $24-$26.

 

I normally go to Bendemeer Rd to stock up 2t. There, Castrol Power 1 racing only $18 compared to other places -$23 & above. So I expected 710 also to be cheaper there, but was surprised to find that it costs $28!.

 

Anyway I bought 3 castrol & added 1 710 just to try out.

 

Is there any great diff if using racing & non racing 2t?

[FireGunz]

$22 for 710?? So good ah? Normally i heard its around $24-$26.

 

I normally go to Bendemeer Rd to stock up 2t. There, Castrol Power 1 racing only $18 compared to other places -$23 & above. So I expected 710 also to be cheaper there, but was surprised to find that it costs $28!.

 

Anyway I bought 3 castrol & added 1 710 just to try out.

 

Is there any great diff if using racing & non racing 2t?

 

Hi bro, so you the both brand that you bought "Castrol Power 1 Racing" & "Motul 710" can mix it. Right? I mean when you going to try out.

 

By the way, how is the "Castrol Power 1 Racing" that you are using it. So what is the pro & con so far?

 

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[FireGunz]

710 can use for pump. 800 is too thick to use for the pump, have to premix. 710 is good enough. but if you pamper and dun mind going premix route, then 800 is jin shiok... Both are anti smoke formula, so if your ratio is 1:50, there should not be problem with NEA unless they in bad mood.

 

2T is 1 cent money 1 cent goods. Buy better 2T, your bike lubrication will be better and less problem in future. As for pricing, it's the same price as iRide SG. I get my 2T from him cos his is one of the most competitive prices, and he sells Motul 800 too. lol...

 

I see... I'm thinking about to get from him "Motul 710" too.

 

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[jbdoggy]

Hi bro, so you the both brand that you bought "Castrol Power 1 Racing" & "Motul 710" can mix it. Right? I mean when you going to try out.

 

By the way, how is the "Castrol Power 1 Racing" that you are using it. So what is the pro & con so far?

 

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You can mix semi synthetic with fully synthetic, or diff brands of fully synthetic. As long same based no problm. Just watch out for the castor oil based 2t only. That one really cant mix. You also cant mix diff brands of coolant due to diff additives in each brand!

 

I havent tried 710 yet. Jus bought last sat only. So far ive no complaints abt Castrol. Its as advertised. Engine running is smooth, throttle response is good, even when i have leaner then the recommended dosage. Must go & tweak pump to 1:50 one day when free.

 

1 thing tho abt 2t oils, i dun really believe all this hype abt the various brands claiming reduced smoke formula or anti smoke formula, bla bla bla... At the end of the day all still quite smokey. Before i reduced my original dosage from abt 1:30+, mine was quite smokey. Then i met up with a bro from here who introduced me to planet motors. He using 710 & leaner mix from mine, abt 1:40+. His was more smokey & much whiter!.

 

It could be our exhausts not yet decarbonised for long time. Dunno. But i intend to have mine decarbonised soon. Then i wld be better positioned to comment on smoke again after that. Maybe the wool in my endcan need to change liao.

 

Anybody know where in sg can do? In jb is at lorong bapok/ ah gua lane. But pai say to say, im a jb boy but dunno where it is! haha... Pai say also, many sg biker & non biker bros & sis kno jb better then me!! hahaha....

[wait4me]

You can mix semi synthetic with fully synthetic, or diff brands of fully synthetic. As long same based no problm. Just watch out for the castor oil based 2t only. That one really cant mix. You also cant mix diff brands of coolant due to diff additives in each brand!

 

I havent tried 710 yet. Jus bought last sat only. So far ive no complaints abt Castrol. Its as advertised. Engine running is smooth, throttle response is good, even when i have leaner then the recommended dosage. Must go & tweak pump to 1:50 one day when free.

 

1 thing tho abt 2t oils, i dun really believe all this hype abt the various brands claiming reduced smoke formula or anti smoke formula, bla bla bla... At the end of the day all still quite smokey. Before i reduced my original dosage from abt 1:30+, mine was quite smokey. Then i met up with a bro from here who introduced me to planet motors. He using 710 & leaner mix from mine, abt 1:40+. His was more smokey & much whiter!.

 

It could be our exhausts not yet decarbonised for long time. Dunno. But i intend to have mine decarbonised soon. Then i wld be better positioned to comment on smoke again after that. Maybe the wool in my endcan need to change liao.

 

Anybody know where in sg can do? In jb is at lorong bapok/ ah gua lane. But pai say to say, im a jb boy but dunno where it is! haha... Pai say also, many sg biker & non biker bros & sis kno jb better then me!! hahaha....

 

u see shell , go up the bridge , next exit go out,

go straight 200 meter , on your left u see all the row of shop houses

[Sethyeo]

Brake pump, if u are spending $400 already, might as well go for the Brembo RCS15. It's about that cost and it is easier to resell. I used R6 stock brembo and i just passed it to the new owner when i sold my SP too. Didn't bother to dekit, hahaha... Just add maybe $200 into the selling price that's all.

 

 

 

Screws and bolts, go msia and buy best. Singapore you buy 2 screws and bolts, in JB u can buy 6-8. Anodized aluminium somemore.

 

Er, I asked about the Brakes, he quoted me around 300+? for original brake and changing of brake hoses. The brembo brake if i remember correctly he said around 100 dollars more but is thai produced one.

 

For the screws and nut, if i ask the mech in jb to replace my whole fairing sets' nut and bolt they will do it?

 

@sporeknight the neutral light and headlight still like ok to me. I don't know is horn or the connection. Mech told me is batt.

Edited September 1, 2015 by Sethyeo