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39 minutes ago, Limbi said:

Thanks all for the help and advise! 🙏

When riding down the slope, eg. Carpark this long stretch slope, can use either gear 1 or gear 2 right? I mean both up slope and down slope. Thanks

There is a right turn to go up to the slope right? Before making the right turn, check for any oncoming vehicles.
 

i) If all clear u can just go up the slope in gear 2, but remember to shift back to gear 1 before coming to a complete stop on the slope. 

ii) If there is oncoming traffic, stop (in gear 1) and wait until it’s safe to proceed. From here u can turn right and go up the slope in gear 1.

When going down the slope, can just remain in gear 1 since the distance to the stop-line is quite short

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18 hours ago, Limbi said:

Thanks all for the help and advise! 🙏

When riding down the slope, eg. Carpark this long stretch slope, can use either gear 1 or gear 2 right? I mean both up slope and down slope. Thanks

Yes yes... no need to go gear 3.. 

usually 1 and if you feel like, change to gear 2 provided you can change back to gear 1 before stopping.

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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  • 2 weeks later...

Must we be able to do all the circuit components to pass L4 (used to be L3.2)? Or as long as we know the route and procedures like what to do can already? 
 

Say, got chance to pass if maybe plank suay fall off/not long enough or crank course stuck...
 

Wondering coz if all must be swee swee... maybe better to pile up CR first and get used to the circuit. 

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5 minutes ago, Azzie said:

Must we be able to do all the circuit components to pass L4 (used to be L3.2)? Or as long as we know the route and procedures like what to do can already? 
 

Say, got chance to pass if maybe plank suay fall off/not long enough or crank course stuck...
 

Wondering coz if all must be swee swee... maybe better to pile up CR first and get used to the circuit. 

your best bet would to do all the circuit components + remember test route + safety checks in order to pass. fall off plank abit extreme to pass ah 😅 but if let's say the timing for plank fail to hit minimum requirement by 0.X seconds, mayyyybe still got chance can pass. i remember clearing this lesson on 2nd or 3rd try, my figure-8 timings exceed by arnd 0.5sec, but the instructor that day was nice la so he cleared me.

having a few CRs before that could help. some instructors might be slightly lenient if they see u're putting in effort by booking CR?

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Okay, thank you for sharing. Sian my crank course a bit not consistent the first time I did L4, don't know why a bit disoriented because of the right turn with all the cars...

Maybe I should look out for CR and refamiliarise a bit. 

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On 3/3/2022 at 8:42 PM, E.O. said:

your best bet would to do all the circuit components + remember test route + safety checks in order to pass. fall off plank abit extreme to pass ah 😅 but if let's say the timing for plank fail to hit minimum requirement by 0.X seconds, mayyyybe still got chance can pass. i remember clearing this lesson on 2nd or 3rd try, my figure-8 timings exceed by arnd 0.5sec, but the instructor that day was nice la so he cleared me.

having a few CRs before that could help. some instructors might be slightly lenient if they see u're putting in effort by booking CR?

Yes.. correct..

1) Plank fall off confirm immediate failure.

2) Timing if fast by 0.0x seconds, will close one eye..

3) and indeed, they do check on CR, but if you got any immediate failure they also fail you.. LOL.. those with no CR more like those people who got call out because of points..(last few)

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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  • 1 month later...
On 3/5/2022 at 2:50 PM, adesmond2 said:

Yes.. correct..

1) Plank fall off confirm immediate failure.

2) Timing if fast by 0.0x seconds, will close one eye..

3) and indeed, they do check on CR, but if you got any immediate failure they also fail you.. LOL.. those with no CR more like those people who got call out because of points..(last few)

On 1/13/2021 at 4:37 PM, wishforastar said:

After passing and getting the 2B licence after a few tries, I would like to share the techniques to clear the 5 courses in the SSDC circuit. 

I would like to also include some tips of Road riding, which is the second part of the TP test.

Allow me to start from the beginning.

Turn on left signal. Check for traffic and check back and move off.

Check right (turn your head right) at the first turn of the circuit shortly after you just move off. Switch off signal change to 2nd gear and then on right signal to prepare to go slope.

1) Slope

U can actually go at normal speed (1st or 2nd gear if already on the move) to go up the slope. (Remember to check right first). If you have difficulty not able to properly go up while halfway up the slope, you can throttle up a slight bit (but I do not think this will happen as there should be enough power)  I have previously stated to accelerate just before turning right to go up the slope but this might cause wide turning.

Clutch in and brake and stop on the slope. Press on the foot brake so the bike does not roll backwards.

Open the throttle. Release the clutch until the sound of the engine goes down.

Maintain and hold the throttle and clutch. Check inwards and release foot brake.  Continue to maintain and hold the throttle and clutch. The bike will move up the slope. 

When the bike is about to go downslope on the other side, slowly release the clutch fully when the bike starts to go down the slope.

Just before the stop line, brake and clutch in to stop the bike.

Check traffic and check back and open throttle and release clutch to move off. Maintain and hold the throttle and clutch when it starts to move. When the bike goes halfway into the first lane, remember to check right first before turning.  Aim to move the bike to enter the centre / middle of the next lane. Remember to maintain and hold the throttle and clutch. There is no need to throttle more / release more clutch.

Continue to maintain and hold the throttle and clutch while moving from just now, after check right, turn right again and stop at the stop line , switch to left signal and get ready to do Figure 8.

 

2) Figure 8

Tip Check for incoming traffic by looking in front for any traffic first. This is to know if you need to stop at the exit at the end of the Figure 8. 

Open throttle a bit more and move off hard cos you'll need to lower your speed turning left and entering the small lane leading to the Figure 8 course. You are not supposed to press brake when turning. So after moving off , switch to second gear and check left before entering the small lane to go towards the Figure 8.

Once your bike is fully inside the small lane, switch off the signal.

Control the throttle as you are just about to enter the Figure 8 as you need to make a quite sharp turn just before you enter. Once you are in the Figure 8 , steady the bike first, then control the speed and maintain it throughout. For me, I would look a few metres in front on the ground. Just before entering the second half of the Figure 8 course, switch to right signal and remember to check for traffic first by looking up (move your head) near the end.

If there is traffic, stop after the dotted yellow line.

If no traffic, remember to check left after entering the short lane just before exiting the Figure 8 course.

After exiting Figure 8,  switch off signal and remember to go to 3rd gear while proceeding to Crank course.

Remember to check left first as there is a sharp left turn just before the crank course. Remember to slow down so that you can make the sharp turn well to stop before the dotted yellow line, and try to stop at the top right corner if possible. This is so that you have enough room to make the left turn comfortably when you enter the crank course.

 

3) Crank course

Open throttle a bit more and move off, press the clutch and kick to second gear but DO NOT release the clutch yet.

Once you enter the Crank course and steady the bike, SLOWLY release the clutch to engage second gear. If this is done correctly, there should be no loud engine sound and the bike will not stall.

Then, change to right signal. If you have done everything correctly til this point, you should be in the middle of the crank course.

Look up and check for traffic on the road in front, then as you turn the bike to the last part of the course, check for traffic on the left. Then turn your head to check for traffic on the right  just  before exiting.

If there is traffic, stop after the dotted yellow line.

If no traffic, remember to check right when your bike enters halfway in the first lane before turning right to the major road. You may want to throttle a bit when the bike is just exiting the course (if you are afraid the bike is too slow and stall) but you must be careful not to throttle too much or else you may be penalized.

Stop slightly to the left by stopping your bike about the tip of the white arrow pointing left at the T junction, just before stop line.

Check for traffic and remember to check left just before turning left. As you approach the box junction, remember to check traffic left and right (turn your head) 

Proceed further and change to the right lane before turning right (again, remember to check right first). 

Remember to check right again at the turn of the circuit (there are altogether 4 turns of the circuit) before reaching E brake course. 

 

4) E-brake

Check right before moving off.

Change to second gear early. Open throttle slightly to let the speed increase naturally. Glance (don't move your head down) at the lights and make sure the green colour light lights up. This green colour light lights up when the speed is about 30 km/h. 

Then, change to 3rd gear and maintain the throttle. Do not open the throttle too much. The speed should be around 31 to max 35km/h.

Look at the yellow line in front and do the E brake when the tyre touches the line.

Try to glance downwards to see when the front tyre touches the line, then your eyes should quickly look in front , CLOSE the throttle first and quickly apply both front and and rear brakes together and remember to straighten your arms at the same time. (or you will be penalized)

Remember to clutch in just before the engine stalls. Remember your eyes should look in front, not down.

Apply front brakes while changing back to gear 1.

Check both mirrors and turn on right signal.

Check back and move off.

Upon reaching the stop line, you need to give way to incoming vehicles from the left side.

Check traffic, check back and move off , remember to check right again just before entering the major road.

You should change to 3rd gear while proceeding to the narrow plank course.

Just before entering the narrow plank course, remember to turn on left signal and check left (to check for traffic coming out from the waiting area) and then check right (at the turn of the circuit).

Switch off signal once you enter the narrow plank area.

 

4) Narrow Plank

There are a few different techniques to do this course. For me, I use the more commonly used "half-clutch" technique.

Look straight far ahead maybe 500 m away.  For me , I would look at a tree that is very far away.

Turn throttle just slightly.

Release clutch slowly, just enough for the bike to move as this course need very slow speed. Maintain the throttle and clutch.

Once you move off, grip the tank with both legs. This is very important so that you can achieve a good balance on the plank.

Once you go up onto the plank, the bike will take a short while to lose speed and slow down. Then, I would steady the bike first before I  start to balance. When I feel the bike is going to lose balance, I would quickly throttle a bit. I will repeat this until the end.

Let the front wheel of the bike touch the ground at the end of the plank before you clutch in, because as you may know, whenever you clutch in, the bike will move forward fast. So in this way, you can still put in some bit of time even at the end. Not to worry, there is enough distance after the plank for you to clutch in and stop before the stop line. 

5) Pylon Slalom

Remember to move off straight first , accelerate, change to second gear and position the bike towards the right edge when approaching the yellow line beside the first cone so that you have enough room to go pass between the two cones.

Aim for the bike to go in the centre between each pair of cones.

For me, I would look at all the 3 cones as a whole unit.

So once I have cleared the first pair of cones, I would naturally quickly look ahead to repeat the same action on the other pairs of cones.

After you have cleared the pylon course, remember to signal right and check your mirror for oncoming traffic on the right side. 

If no traffic, check right just before going onto the major road.

If got traffic, stop just before the dotted white lines. 

Once you go onto the major road, switch off signal and check right (at the turn of the circuit) and then check right again at the next turn of the circuit, before going back to the waiting area. Remember to go to gear 1 and half-clutch as you go over the hump just as you enter the waiting area. And also look out for pedestrians at the zebra crossing inside the waiting area.

Road Riding (2nd part of TP test)

If you manage to "survive" the circuit section, the TP testers will allow you to go for the road riding section.

1) Turning 

Before you move off, always check traffic first (turn your head left & right) and check back.

At the slope just after coming out of SSDC, you need to check inwards before moving off. 

Every time after you have moved off, remember to check left / right just before you make the left / right turn.

At the box junctions, you need to check back left cos there is a kerb on your right side and you are turning right. 

2) Changing lane

You would be riding in the centre of the lane, on the body of the arrow. 

Signal left / right first.

Then, check mirror and blind spot.

If traffic is clear, move towards the edge of the lane, just beside the white dotted lines.

Check mirror and blind spot again, then slowly enter the next lane. This is to avoid any "abrupt lane changing".

3) U-turn

If you are already moving , u need to slow down and change to 2nd gear.

When the handle bar is about in line with the edge of the kerb, check right, then perform the U turn. You can maintain the speed and be able to U turn into the centre of the next lane. Remember to look up (not down) and in front at the next lane that you are turning into.

Signal left after the whole bike enters the next lane, cos you will need to change to the left lane, but remember you can only change after the zebra crossing zig zag line. 

4) Zebra crossings

Just before entering the filter lane leading to the zebra crossing, check left (for oncoming pedestrians/ cyclists/ PMD riders) , slow down and change to 2nd gear as you are near to zebra crossing, turn your head left and right to check for pedestrians / cyclists / PMD riders, after you have gone past the zebra crossing, check for traffic.

Remember to check left just before you cross the dashed give way lines to go onto the main road.

Good luck !

 Hi, i saw your post and i think that this is very useful and a good guide. Thank you so much for sharing. 

I have manage to pass my lesson 4 and today is my first time doing RC. All along my circuit was quite weak not consistent. Sometimes managed to pass the crank course, sometimes not. But today was a nightmare. Out of 6 or 7times doing crank course, i only managed to complete 1. Thr rest either i fell once entered the crank course or my engine stalled, or even go towards the curb. Really demoralising. I guess i get easily stressed up as well. 

Wonder you have any advise?

By when should i fully release the clutch will be the best.

Thanks

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8 minutes ago, Lbq said:

 Hi, i saw your post and i think that this is very useful and a good guide. Thank you so much for sharing. 

I have manage to pass my lesson 4 and today is my first time doing RC. All along my circuit was quite weak not consistent. Sometimes managed to pass the crank course, sometimes not. But today was a nightmare. Out of 6 or 7times doing crank course, i only managed to complete 1. Thr rest either i fell once entered the crank course or my engine stalled, or even go towards the curb. Really demoralising. I guess i get easily stressed up as well. 

Wonder you have any advise?

By when should i fully release the clutch will be the best.

Thanks

hmmm.. maybe you wan to clutch in/half clutch + rear brake after both wheels go up?

next CR just wack on plank at least 5-10 times until you are confident enough? (that's what I did for my figure 8 ) 😎 2A need faster timing.. 😂

cannot visualise CL2 need how fast..

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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Hihi, thanks for your reply. But i meant crank course not plank. 🙂

If i wack on crank course. And i already felt nervous having all the rider waiting at the back. And thinking at the start i just fell and having them all waiting. And i feel stressed again to try again. Worried to repeat the same mistakes everytime. 

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5 minutes ago, Lbq said:

Hihi, thanks for your reply. But i meant crank course not plank. 🙂

If i wack on crank course. And i already felt nervous having all the rider waiting at the back. And thinking at the start i just fell and having them all waiting. And i feel stressed again to try again. Worried to repeat the same mistakes everytime. 

sorry.. too early.. eyes blurry see wrongly.. LOL...

crack course need to go through a few more times.. imagine you in a traffic light.. and you wan to squeeze through that accident infront.. so need to turn slowly.. based on what I remember.. need gear 2 and fingers off clutch lever when you reach the first "bend".. 

 

Dun worry about falling.. you fall at circuit is better then you fall out in the road.. So just try.. and you might wan to check with instructors if there's any immediate failure if your fingers remain at clutch lever.. if only points.. just make sure you change to gear 2.. then clutch in before your engine die.. engine die/drop bike immediate failure.. points might not be fail...

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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Hahahs is okay. 🙂 so i should slowly release the clutch when im at no.2 and fully released when im at no.3 or it depends?  Im not so worried abt the point cos im more towards an immediate failure 😂

20220411_073328.thumb.jpg.341235a12e4b8dbba239a9ec599569a3.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Lbq said:

Hahahs is okay. 🙂 so i should slowly release the clutch when im at no.2 and fully released when im at no.3 or it depends?  Im not so worried abt the point cos im more towards an immediate failure 😂

20220411_073328.thumb.jpg.341235a12e4b8dbba239a9ec599569a3.jpg

1-2 1st gear take your time to turn..

2-3 change gear to 2

3-4 turn and aligned your bike and once aligned release clutch, once clutch release, 4-5- press abit of rear brake plus throttle.

5-6 slow down and turn your bike..

6 - if need to stop bike, change to gear 1 and prepare to stop before stop line

7 - if no need to stop bike, just throttle off and turn left..

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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2 minutes ago, Lbq said:

So means by right from no.2-4 i should have fully release my clutch? 

3-4.. 2 abit too fast

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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Sorry sorry. Means i started to release the clutch at 3 and by 4 i should have fully release? Dont start at 2?

So if i release too early then yhighrr chances of stalling the bike? 

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39 minutes ago, Lbq said:

Sorry sorry. Means i started to release the clutch at 3 and by 4 i should have fully release? Dont start at 2?

So if i release too early then yhighrr chances of stalling the bike? 

yes yes.. if release at 2.. your bike might jerk forward then go up kerb.. depending on your speed..

Yes.. release clutch not hard lei.. haha.. less then 1s.. :)

Stalling the bike is you throttle not enough.. or rear brake too much.. I usually throttle abit plus abit rear brake.. to balance off.. if too fast, brake more.. if engine dying.. throttle more less brake.. so must find a balancing point lor..

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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Okay thanks alot. You are right, releasing clutch is just 1sec thing hahahs but when i do all messed up. Sometimes i even step on the brake without knowing until i stalled the bike. I hope really will be better during my next tuesday CR.

Thanks alot for your advice.

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Hi Lbq,

I went through this many times before...

At 1, once u move off, clutch in and kick to gear 2 but do not release clutch yet. 

Concentrate on turning into 2. Once you are in 2, you can slowly release the clutch (to prevent bike stalling)... u will have enough time to release it (before reaching 6) even if you do it slowly. 

Once you are in 2, you still have to focus on turning into 4, while slowly releasing the clutch.

Even if I release it slowly, I still managed to release it fully before 6.

 

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Wishforstar. Okay, i will try again what you advise for next CR. And so means is okay that i still 'holding' on to the clutch as long as i release before 6. But let say i happened to release fully at 4 or 5 also okay? Doesnt mean to be fix, like must fully release at 4 or must be at 5, depends on the speed etc?  I hope i will be better and be more calm. Eyepoint better to be abt inbetween 4and 5 that direction? 

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On 4/11/2022 at 8:45 PM, Lbq said:

Wishforstar. Okay, i will try again what you advise for next CR. And so means is okay that i still 'holding' on to the clutch as long as i release before 6. But let say i happened to release fully at 4 or 5 also okay? Doesnt mean to be fix, like must fully release at 4 or must be at 5, depends on the speed etc?  I hope i will be better and be more calm. Eyepoint better to be abt inbetween 4and 5 that direction? 

U can start releasing the clutch (slowly) once u enter 2.

And you will need to focus on turning into 3 and 4 and 5 and 6 while slowly releasing clutch.

Yes, there is no fix like must fully release at 4 or 5...

Edited by wishforastar
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Okay, will.remember that. Thank you for your advices. 

Thanks all for the advices! 

Good luck to me.

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On 4/11/2022 at 7:48 AM, Lbq said:

Hahahs is okay. 🙂 so i should slowly release the clutch when im at no.2 and fully released when im at no.3 or it depends?  Im not so worried abt the point cos im more towards an immediate failure 😂

20220411_073328.thumb.jpg.341235a12e4b8dbba239a9ec599569a3.jpg

What the instructor taught was to throttle slightly more than usual at point 1, to prevent insufficient acceleration and wobbling. When turning into crank course, clutch in and shift to gear 2, but dont release clutch yet to let it roll, as this will help to increase the bike speed, preventing stalling of engine. Then around point 2 can start slowly releasing clutch. Throughout the course, no need use throttle or brake at all, just cruise through it. Best tip the instructor gave as you'll have time to check for traffic and will be able to stop in time if there is traffic. 

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On 4/11/2022 at 12:19 PM, Lbq said:

Okay thanks alot. You are right, releasing clutch is just 1sec thing hahahs but when i do all messed up. Sometimes i even step on the brake without knowing until i stalled the bike. I hope really will be better during my next tuesday CR.

Thanks alot for your advice.

for me i do it this way
1. move off with slightly more acceleration

2. before turning left into the course, force your head to turn left (eyepoint is important so you dont hit the kerb)

3. just before you straighten your handlebars after the turn, change to gear 2 and slowly release clutch (dont throw clutch!)

4. follow through

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@sunflower thank you for your advice. I will try it on coming tuesday. Hope everything will be fine. Thanks.

@Axylus thanks for your advise. Understood that eye point is very important. Im always too nervous and forgotten. Will try my best this coming tuesday. thank you

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Hi all, just ended my CR. Have a few completed crank course, also a few unsuccessful one, fell, stalled. Far from good. But slightly better than the previous lesson. But thanks for all the advices. 

I think need to rmb the eye point. 

Thank you so much!

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