Run-in for NEW 2B motor engine

[mfibre]

hi all,

 

For new bike, theres such thing is running in the engine right.

 

But what exactly do i need to do? like, whats the maximum speed i can travel?

 

Also, when should i start changing the engine oil? Any oil can use - semi/fully synthetic?

 

Im riding Yamaha ybr 125.

 

Thanks for reading..

[flareon1982]

Try to run at speed of 50 to 60km/hr will be good. The oil try to change in the interval of 1000. First time 1000 second time 2000 than third at 3000. Than when u hit 1000 can ride normal.

 

2 cents

[omnislash]

YBR is 4-stroke right.

 

Dun exceed the RPM limit suggested in your manual. Warm up before you travel. Dun be "soft" on your bike (dun be afraid to accelerate fast.) Dun stick to a particular gear, if you cruise along the expressway, try to switch gear once in a while and vary your speed.

 

If i were you....

 

0km - 500km. Mineral Oil.

 

Change Oil Filter

 

500 - 1000km. Mineral Oil.

 

Change Oil Filter

 

1000-2000km. Semi Syn.

 

Change Oil Filter.

 

2000 - 5000km. Fully Syn.

 

Every 5000km, fully syn. Every 10000km, Change Oil Filter.

 

 

But thats just me....

[mfibre]

Originally posted by omnislash@April 06, 2007 09:46 pm

YBR is 4-stroke right.

 

Dun exceed the RPM limit suggested in your manual. Warm up before you travel. Dun be "soft" on your bike (dun be afraid to accelerate fast.) Dun stick to a particular gear, if you cruise along the expressway, try to switch gear once in a while and vary your speed.

 

If i were you....

 

0km - 500km. Mineral Oil.

 

Change Oil Filter

 

500 - 1000km. Mineral Oil.

 

Change Oil Filter

 

1000-2000km. Semi Syn.

 

Change Oil Filter.

 

2000 - 5000km. Fully Syn.

 

Every 5000km, fully syn. Every 10000km, Change Oil Filter.

 

 

But thats just me....

Yup, its 4 stroke.

If you were me is it? What bike were you riding?

 

Man..i hate running in. Have to ride very slow:cry:

 

thanks for that tip. Looks like i will be travelling 50 - 60km/h only i guess.

 

Now the meter says 198Km. I've completed my 150Km riding at max 4000rpm (damn slow).

 

Now aiming 500Km. haha.

 

 

Any particular EO you would recommend? Brand i mean.

[mfibre]

Originally posted by flareon1982@April 06, 2007 09:45 pm

Try to run at speed of 50 to 60km/hr will be good. The oil try to change in the interval of 1000. First time 1000 second time 2000 than third at 3000. Than when u hit 1000 can ride normal.

 

2 cents

thanks for the reply. So i guess, if i run in properly, my FC will be, in a way, more efficient?

[omnislash]

Originally posted by mfibre@April 07, 2007 12:20 am

Yup, its 4 stroke.

If you were me is it? What bike were you riding?

 

Man..i hate running in. Have to ride very slow:cry:

 

thanks for that tip. Looks like i will be travelling 50 - 60km/h only i guess.

 

Now the meter says 198Km. I've completed my 150Km riding at max 4000rpm (damn slow).

 

Now aiming 500Km. haha.

 

 

Any particular EO you would recommend? Brand i mean.

wat does your manual say?

 

For eg, my friend Vespa manual say not more than 80% of the max speed. His max speed is stated to be 110kmh. So my friend can travel up to 80kmh or abit more.

 

I seriously think 50-60kmh is very slow, and thats what i mean by being soft on your bike. It may do more harm than good i tell you.

 

Any reputable brand will do. Esso, mobil... Whatever... Anyway, mineral oil are the cheapo ones.

[omnislash]

Originally posted by mfibre@April 07, 2007 12:21 am

thanks for the reply. So i guess, if i run in properly, my FC will be, in a way, more efficient?

Running in involves the seating in of the piston ring onto the piston and forming a good clearance with the piston housing. If it doesnt seat in well, it wont provide a good seal between the combustion chamber from the engine oil side. Yes, running in does affect the FC of your bike. I think there's a sticky somewhere in this forum.

[stsoh]

do not to use mineral oil.

it's a old-wise man tale, heard this >20 yrs ago.

technologies have improves tremendously.

tolerances r tighter, metallurgies improved vastly.

yet many mech still follow old-man tales n monkey-see-monkey-do methods.

u r educated enough to read n make wise decisions.

some owner's manual clearly state that warranty void if poor quality oil is used.

 

general guide for new engine run-in:

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=3864202/Run_in.jpg

[ZzGaNgStErzZ]

erm, is see spd de meh

not see rpm? if gear 1 i run @ 50-60 kmh?

oso 80% of e spd?

tink 4 most bike is try not 2 exceed e rpm 5

[mfibre]

Originally posted by omnislash@April 07, 2007 12:42 am

wat does your manual say?

 

For eg, my friend Vespa manual say not more than 80% of the max speed. His max speed is stated to be 110kmh. So my friend can travel up to 80kmh or abit more.

 

I seriously think 50-60kmh is very slow, and thats what i mean by being soft on your bike. It may do more harm than good i tell you.

 

Any reputable brand will do. Esso, mobil... Whatever... Anyway, mineral oil are the cheapo ones.

Manual says:

 

0 - 150 Km

Do not exceed 4000rpm.

 

150 - 500Km

Do not exceed 5000rpm

 

500 - 1000 Km

Do not exceed 6000rpm

 

1000Km and above

Do not exceed 8500 rpm

 

So, if really follow the manual, i have to ride slow. hence being soft on the bike. 50 - 60km is too slow. Can do 90 km/h i happy liao( for running in)

[omnislash]

Its very easy to fish out some jpeg files and telling you what to do so on and so forth. Check this too...

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

Well, I dun think that guy is some mechanic telling old man tales.. He's giving logical explanations which I agree more compared to the other side of the argument.

 

But again, thats just me. I'm not some research student or professor who has done experiments or study in real depth in this field. I just follow the argument that convinces me more. To each its own.

 

Btw, my manual says change my engine oil every 10,000Km & oil filter every 20,000km. I dun think I want to follow that. Would you? Many of these manuals are as old as the mechanics telling old-man tales.

 

@mfibre - You are right by following your manual about the speed/rpm limit. But just vary your gear just that little more often (IMHO).

[mfibre]

thanks for the link. Look like a very good read..

 

Yup, so i have to change the gear more often. I also have occasional problem of changing gear. eg. i kick the lever, but the lever seems stuck.. you know what i mean.

Dont know what the problem is, me or the machine

[omnislash]

Originally posted by mfibre@April 07, 2007 11:08 am

thanks for the link. Look like a very good read..

 

Yup, so i have to change the gear more often. I also have occasional problem of changing gear. eg. i kick the lever, but the lever seems stuck.. you know what i mean.

Dont know what the problem is, me or the machine

It happened to me when I overfill my engine oil, eg 1L when it should have been 700ml.

 

It also happened to me when my oil is nearing its service period.

 

It can be a great mismatch between the gear you are in and the speed you are travelling. For an extreme eg, if you try to bring down your Gear from 5 to 1 while you are stationery, its really difficut.

 

It can be due to other things which I do not know of. You just have to troble shoot it yourself and decide what's the problem.

 

Again, If i were you, if its not bothering me much, I wont really lay attention to it.

 

If it happens again, rev the bike a little bit before you change that gear.

[mfibre]

Yea,.. probably one of those reasons aight2 thanks thanks!

[servoprax]

Originally posted by omnislash@April 07, 2007 10:51 am

Its very easy to fish out some jpeg files and telling you what to do so on and so forth. Check this too...

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

Well, I dun think that guy is some mechanic telling old man tales.. He's giving logical explanations which I agree more compared to the other side of the argument.

 

But again, thats just me. I'm not some research student or professor who has done experiments or study in real depth in this field. I just follow the argument that convinces me more. To each its own.

 

Btw, my manual says change my engine oil every 10,000Km & oil filter every 20,000km. I dun think I want to follow that. Would you? Many of these manuals are as old as the mechanics telling old-man tales.

 

@mfibre - You are right by following your manual about the speed/rpm limit. But just vary your gear just that little more often (IMHO).

Oil Change at 10k is a big issue no doubt especially when it comes direct from the vehicle or bike manufacturer itself.

 

Commercial vehicles might take the 10k route but look at their low rpms. The likely issue they face is with heat due to extensive working hours.

 

On the other hand with bikes, its a combination of high rpm, stop-go ride and heat.

 

Unless the bike manufacturer has a colaboration with an oil company to specifically blend a one-off special mixture to fit the 10k claim, I will buy that bike and use that oil provided they have documents to prove its worth and the technical test data.

 

I was told fjr1300 also has this recomendation to change at 10k but why take the risk.

 

Why scrooge on 4 bottle totalling 100bux at most on at close-to-30k bike. Changing the oil often aids in engine cleanliness and other related advantages. Do the maths.

[servoprax]

Originally posted by omnislash@April 07, 2007 10:51 am

Its very easy to fish out some jpeg files and telling you what to do so on and so forth. Check this too...

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

Well, I dun think that guy is some mechanic telling old man tales.. He's giving logical explanations which I agree more compared to the other side of the argument.

 

But again, thats just me. I'm not some research student or professor who has done experiments or study in real depth in this field. I just follow the argument that convinces me more. To each its own.

 

Btw, my manual says change my engine oil every 10,000Km & oil filter every 20,000km. I dun think I want to follow that. Would you? Many of these manuals are as old as the mechanics telling old-man tales.

 

@mfibre - You are right by following your manual about the speed/rpm limit. But just vary your gear just that little more often (IMHO).

I did my run in similar though not exactly to mototune.

 

I had my reservations given that my FZ1 was first hand but nevertheless i took the plunge and guess what, I had no problems for the whole 80,000km on the bike within two years and my FC was 330km before entering reserve. All that on a standard engine and Akra Titanium slipon with religious maintenence done.

 

I dont scrooge on oils. I change it every month whether I clock 3k mileage or not. 4500km per mth is easy for me given where I stay and wheer I work.

 

My recipe for this achievement.

Ride your bike normally for the run in period.

Change your EO regularly.

Keep your engine in bone stock condition. Tuning at its minimal to smoothen out rough spots without the change of jettings where possible.

Change the EO filter regularly.

Use premium plugs. I recommend NGK CR9EIX for FZ1. No lesser.

 

All these very familar right..... You decide if this simple recipe works for you.

[ediskrad]

You wud be wiser to follow wt's recommended in the manual. REMEMBER, whatever gear you're using, keep to the recommended rpm. The purpose of engine running-in is to gradually condition all the moving parts.

 

The use of mineral oil during running-in is just common sense. Fully synthetic oil can and will last 10,000km. using synthetic during running-in is a waste of money when you're only use it for the 500km, 1000km intervals. Unless of course you're rich.

 

There are a few brands of lubricants that can last 40,000km but you still need to change your oil filter at 20,000km interval. You just drain the oil in a clean pan, change the oil filter and pour the oil back in. then add a bit more oil for the one you lost if the oil filter.

 

As for spark plugs? Normal spark plugs can last 40,000km (if set the electtrode gap according to your bike spec) or six months, whichever comes first. This is still eing conservative. Since the late 1970s, normal spark plugs is design to last 36,000 miles or 57,600km. Iridium plugs can last upto 100,000km or one year, which ever come first.

 

Over the 29 years of my motorcycling life, I have ridden an array of 100cc bikes to 1150cc bikes, 14 bikes in all. There are alot of books, magazines, and websites you can research to increase your knowledge. Do check the reliability of the sources and whether it is suitable for motorcycling needs and riding styles.

[skyscorcher]

I heard that there is such a thing that some shops help u do the run-in at a price for the new bikes.

 

Is that true?

[omnislash]

I heard that there is such a thing that some shops help u do the run-in at a price for the new bikes.

 

Is that true?

 

Yup. Some will do it for you with the dyno jet or some sort. They charge you of course. But you save on fuel.

[skyscorcher]

Okay thx.

 

Do you know of any shops that does it?

[omnislash]

Okay thx.

 

Do you know of any shops that does it?

 

unity.

 

Ask WW for details. I not into it.