DIY Chain Oiler

[Limsteel]

Scott oiler... TOO EX!!! Surfing in the buy and sell... saw this cheaper oiler on sale... one look at it I find that it is priced too high for what its worth...

 

So gathering some stuff at home.

2m air tube (for Fish tank air pump)

2 air tube connectors (Fish tank air pump accessories)

1 air regulator (Fish tank air pump accessories)

1 plastic bottle

1 cloth hangar

some cable tie

Epoxy

 

With some tools

Drill bit, Plier, Scissor, Pen Knife...

 

Use drill bit make a hole at the base of the plastic bottle. Plug a tube connector into the hole and seal with epoxy. Then once the epoxy is set... I tie it up under the seat and attached a long air tube.

 

Page2 for updated pics

[dominator]

Originally posted by Limsteel@Sep 23 2005, 08:35 PM

Scott oiler... TOO EX!!! Surfing in the buy and sell... saw this cheaper oiler on sale... one look at it I find that it is priced too high for what its worth...

 

Scoot Oiler?

 

I been using for about 2 years.

 

Although too ex as mention by you, I am happy that my current chain and both sprockets changed since last year july have no visible sign of wear. Chain tightening to what I remember only done 3 times.

My mileage? Don't ask me...you may not believe it.

[Limsteel]

Guide the air tube down to the swing arm. Cut halfway and installed the air regulator. The rest of the air tube, I push through a straighten section of a hanger. cable tie to the swing arm.

 

The Air regulator is to control the oil flow, without it the flow cannot be controlled! it will drip non-stop!

 

Will try to install a Y junction so I can lube both sides...

 

Page2 for updated pics

[Limsteel]

Bent the rear section of the air tube toward the sprockets and chain intersection. As the cloth hangar is inside the airtube, it can twisted into any angle.

 

Page2 for updated pics

[Limsteel]

Total cost

Plastic Bottle ~ FREE, Empty medication bottle

2m Air tube ~ $0.60

2 Connector ~ $0.20

1 Air Regulator ~ $0.30

Cloth Hangar ~ FREE, grab from home

 

Some cable tie ~ From toolbox. Est $2

Epoxy ~ From tool Box. Est $5

 

So total $1!

 

Domi: (a bike I nearly bought)

I know Scott Oiler is :thumb: :thumb: but freaking $170... I cannot bring myself to pay for it!

[Ferrous]

Great job dude, looks pretty decent!

 

Do update on whether it reli helps anot ya? i mabbe following ur example..haha

[Limsteel]

Originally posted by Ferrous@Sep 23 2005, 09:08 PM

Great job dude, looks pretty decent!

 

Do update on whether it reli helps anot ya? i mabbe following ur example..haha

Give it a try, it is only a $1 to $10 project (plus elbow grease)... if doesn't work throw away also no big deal!

[adrianslacker]

how do you control the rate of the oil dripping?

 

and just curious, are you a macgyver fan?

[Limsteel]

Originally posted by adrianslacker@Sep 23 2005, 09:51 PM

how do you control the rate of the oil dripping?

 

and just curious, are you a macgyver fan?

Pic2 connection.jpg... can you see a green thingy just above the heel guard. Tighten to slow or stop Drip... Loosen to increase rate of drip. Down side... If you loosen and never tighten it after riding... you will come back to a pool of oil...

 

Lucky for us SV dudes we on side stand and no oil will get onto the tire...

 

AND NO I am not a macgyver fan, I am from STR (now a ghost forum )

[tweakmax2]

COPY from rabbit oiler... chris getting mad...

[adrianslacker]

the biggest improvement that can be made now is adding some mechanism which will ONLY drip oil when the bike is moving, so that it becomes an automatic system (right now you need to tighten and loosen manually).

 

Scottoiler uses a tube which connects to the airbox in a certain way, if im not wrong. You can try using the same principle.

 

Or a simpler way might be to design it in such a way that oil will only drip when the bike is upright, so when you put it on the sidestand the flow of oil automatically stops. You can probably shift the hose or something to an angle to achieve this.

[Limsteel]

TMax2:

Yeap, for $1 I can accomplish what he does for $25... But bear in mind, his system is proven, mine not... that I cannot copy...

 

Adrian:

Steady... Why didnt I think of that!

[MC28]

Copy or not..It wasnt copyright in the first place anyway..

 

My mech was doing this for a couple of bikes even before chris525 posted his idea online..No offence though..

[S750WP]

Is the rabbit oiler and the Chua oiler both the same guy, cause both using the same concept?? If I remember correctly Chua came out with his oiler first 2.5 years ago while I'm still using scottoiler.

 

Btw I install chain oiler too, using loobman concept, loob both side of the chain, no need regulator or whatsoever, just squeeze oil bottle and ride.

 

My Chain oiler

[S750WP]

Originally posted by Limsteel@Sep 24 2005, 12:02 AM

TMax2:

Yeap, for $1 I can accomplish what he does for $25... But bear in mind, his system is proven, mine not... that I cannot copy...

 

Adrian:

Steady... Why didnt I think of that!

I think you spend more than a dollar, how abt the epoxy and bottle this need cost as well. Not forgetting labour and tools invested.

[Limsteel]

Originally posted by S750WP@Sep 24 2005, 11:11 AM

I think you spend more than a dollar, how abt the epoxy and bottle this need cost as well. Not forgetting labour and tools invested.

Hi there 750:

When you enjoy doing some things, labor cost = $0.

A tiny bit of Epoxy, some cable tie... tools is laying around in the house, with no immediate econ value... So to me also $0.

 

like I stated:

Give it a try, it is only a $1 to $10 project (plus elbow grease)... if doesn't work throw away also no big deal! 

[Jayz_sg]

wah so cool.... every1 come out with their own concept....

[chris 525]

Originally posted by tweakmax2@Sep 23 2005, 11:44 PM

COPY from rabbit oiler... chris getting mad...

Nope I am not mad.

 

Remember the humble Apple computer started from a DIY kit back int the 70's

 

The DIY oilers that I have seen (as well as this one) also not the same. You just open the valve, then oil flows. If you forget to off the valve then all the oil flows out.

 

The loobman you squeeze the bottle, there is a resevoir (not sealed) leading to a double dripper at the back. Because the resevoir not sealed, it is very messy if you squeeze too much. Also this one only availbale mail-order and you got to spend 1-3 hours figuring out the instructions.

 

The simple oiler has some lever on the handle bar that can on-off the flow. But that one no loonger available.

 

As well as all the parts that make up the rabbit oiler, there is the time to assemble them, and more time to fit them to the bike, all the SMS, all the PM and the to and fro to the hw shops.

 

I am working on making the rabbit oiler fully-auto, but it is going to require a battery pack to power it and some trick parts. As a result the price will be more like S$50.

[S750WP]

Originally posted by chris 525@Sep 24 2005, 10:33 PM

The loobman you squeeze the bottle, there is a resevoir (not sealed) leading to a double dripper at the back. Because the resevoir not sealed, it is very messy if you squeeze too much. Also this one only availbale mail-order and you got to spend 1-3 hours figuring out the instructions.

The loobman concept which I improvise, doesn't fling as much compare to the drip type because the oil glide on the sprocket. If squueeze too much oil, and the bike is stationary it will drip by the side only, not messy to the bike at all.

[il4]

"Caveman Concept"

 

Lowest Cost

 

Most Manual

 

Most DIY

 

http://www.quality-cycle.com/The_Correct_Way_to_Lube_your_Chain_001.jpg

 

How to Correctly Lube your Chain!

 

 

Most people (probably 7 out of 10) don’t know how to correctly “lube” their Motorcycle Chain! A chain wears at it’s “Pins”, that holds the inner & outer Side Plates together.

 

It’s “Pin” wear that causes your chain to stretch! (wear)

 

Most people just spray the chain lube on the back of the sprocket down the middle of the chain. This does your chain very little good!!!! The chain “rollers need very little lubrication.

 

The only correct way to get the “lube” to the Pins....is to spray just above the chain at the bottom of the sprocket & let “gravity” do the work. The lube will flow between the side plates to get to the shaft of the Pins.

 

Then do the other side the same way. The difference between a improperly lubed chain & one that is “lubed” correctly can mean up to a 35% increase in the life of your chain!

 

Remember that a properly lubed non O-Ring Chain with the same Tensile Strength.....will last just as long if “lubed” correctly! Even a X-Ring chain seals have to be lubed occasionally to keep them from drying out & help flush grit off the chain!!!!

[d0n]

Originally posted by il4@Sep 25 2005, 11:28 AM

The only correct way to get the “lube” to the Pins....is to spray just above the chain at the bottom of the sprocket & let “gravity” do the work. The lube will flow between the side plates to get to the shaft of the Pins.

 

Then do the other side the same way.

hm...how do u access the chain frm the other side at the same angle?

there's the wheel blocking right...?

[il4]

Originally posted by d0n^@Sep 25 2005, 06:12 PM

hm...how do u access the chain frm the other side at the same angle?

there's the wheel blocking right...?

then go for loobman, vchua, dabbit concept, otherwise do what opposite direction of caveman concept.

 

lol

[Guest motofreak]

Originally posted by il4@Sep 25 2005, 11:28 AM

"Caveman Concept"

 

Lowest Cost

 

Most Manual

 

Most DIY

 

http://www.quality-cycle.com/The_Correct_Way_to_Lube_your_Chain_001.jpg

 

How to Correctly Lube your Chain!

 

 

Most people (probably 7 out of 10) don’t know how to correctly “lube” their Motorcycle Chain! A chain wears at it’s “Pins”, that holds the inner & outer Side Plates together.

 

It’s “Pin” wear that causes your chain to stretch! (wear)

 

Most people just spray the chain lube on the back of the sprocket down the middle of the chain. This does your chain very little good!!!! The chain “rollers need very little lubrication.

 

The only correct way to get the “lube” to the Pins....is to spray just above the chain at the bottom of the sprocket & let “gravity” do the work. The lube will flow between the side plates to get to the shaft of the Pins.

 

Then do the other side the same way. The difference between a improperly lubed chain & one that is “lubed” correctly can mean up to a 35% increase in the life of your chain!

 

Remember that a properly lubed non O-Ring Chain with the same Tensile Strength.....will last just as long if “lubed” correctly! Even a X-Ring chain seals have to be lubed occasionally to keep them from drying out & help flush grit off the chain!!!!

 

Da real bikers way....

[zinc1]

Originally posted by Limsteel@Sep 24 2005, 12:02 AM

TMax2:

Yeap, for $1 I can accomplish what he does for $25... But bear in mind, his system is proven, mine not... that I cannot copy...

 

Adrian:

Steady... Why didnt I think of that!

sometimes its no about the money, its about how you spend your time. some ppl like only to ride, some ppl like to do up their bike.

 

i'm the type who do up my bike.

[chris 525]

he he -

have figured out how to make the Rabbit oiler fully automatic. Meaning no more pumping/squeezing/ or doing things manually.

On the engine and go.

Need to do some testing to make sure the concept reliable.

Prototype already working on my CBR