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Posted

I understand that premise; this was a reply to rykros post on his wish to experiment putting capacitors on the rectifier side instead of at the battery end. Since there should be no damage by putting a capacitor (bank) in parallel to the battery and that he wishes to experiment, I'd just leave him to his experiments.

 

But the question then is why bother to hook a capactior in parallel with the battery at all when the battery is a giant capacitor in itself?

 

A proper ripple smoothing circuit uses a resistor/capacitor combination to smooth power. No such combo is possible (or at least makes any sense) when you are connecting directly across the battery.

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Posted

Just curious, but if you were to put a capacitor/resistor combo in series to the battery, wouldn't that increase the overall voltage of the entire circuit?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/Arcfire/PGforumbike.jpg

 

Jun 2002 - May 2003 ~ NSR150SP

May2003 - Dec 2006 ~ GSXR400RR

Oct 2006 - Present ~ Burgman AN400K3

Posted

hmm wouldn't it be good if those who have the VS meet up with those who wanna clarify, say those 2b bikes ta200 or sth, ride with the VS then remove and ride to compare again.

 

Just my thoughts.

Posted
Just curious, but if you were to put a capacitor/resistor combo in series to the battery, wouldn't that increase the overall voltage of the entire circuit?

 

No, neither a capacitor nor a resistor can create voltage. If a capacitor is placed in series between the load and battery (or the alternator and battery) no currently would flow (after the capacitor is charged - which is nearly instantaneous).

 

If a resistor were placed in series it will cause a voltage drop computed as E = IR where E = voltage drop, I = circuit current, and R = resistance in ohms.

 

So, you have to connect in parallel as in the diagram. It cannot be a resistor because that will simply run the battery down. So, it must be a capacitor.

 

http://www.herbhost.com/revtec/bike2a.gif

Posted
No, neither a capacitor nor a resistor can create voltage. If a capacitor is placed in series between the load and battery (or the alternator and battery) no currently would flow (after the capacitor is charged - which is nearly instantaneous).

 

If a resistor were placed in series it will cause a voltage drop computed as E = IR where E = voltage drop, I = circuit current, and R = resistance in ohms.

 

So, you have to connect in parallel as in the diagram. It cannot be a resistor because that will simply run the battery down. So, it must be a capacitor.

 

http://www.herbhost.com/revtec/bike2a.gif

 

I'm getting a tad confused here, when you previously mentioned placing a capacitor across the battery did not make sense, did you mean in parallel as well?

 

But in this case you mentioned connecting a capacitor in parallel to the battery...... was it just to illustrate that we cannot place a resistor in parallel to the battery?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/Arcfire/PGforumbike.jpg

 

Jun 2002 - May 2003 ~ NSR150SP

May2003 - Dec 2006 ~ GSXR400RR

Oct 2006 - Present ~ Burgman AN400K3

Posted

if u put a resistor in parallel with the battery, u'll be reducing the current flow for other parts of the circuit... meaning to say example your headlight will be getting lesser current means not bright, or when your bike is not running and it is switched on, your battery will drain out faster cuz u r eating up alot of current and the voltage for the battery will drop.... correct me if im wrong...

peace :angel:

 

ok juz a qs, does the capabilities of the cdi of a motorcycle is affected by the fluctuations of the voltage/current?

 

and another, the magnetic coil, if its not running properly, would it cause ripples in the current after the rectifier? im not good in power motors... i juz suck at it... hahaha... thanx ncknight and strong eagle !

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r454/negatis99/Rykros.jpghttp://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r454/negatis99/landale.jpg

FBB6663M (CB400 SF Spec III) aka. Alis Landale

From: 17/06/2007-30/09/2007 Scrap:13/03/2008

 

Posted
LAB? you mean sch lab? for your info.. i dun think sch lab have 10000uF or 10mF... cos is too huge in value... and eletrocyle cap will be also hard to find in sch lab .. maybe..

 

its my office lab.. ya.. the value is too big.. only manage to find some 1500uF.. if i were to do it, i would nid to use 20+ of it... too bulky liao.. :giddy:

http://forum.geizhals.at/files/2455/Vfr_logo.jpg
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
you don't own one,don't talk as if you own one....we are riding a phantom,200cc only not like what your riding,an valkyree interstate 1520cc....theres a bigg diff here....we r juzt trying to get full power out of our small engine,we are riding a small bike,we can't afford to do expensive mods,not like you who can afford a big bike dat is so expensive,it shows dat we do not have money,so we want to maximise the power range with minimise $$ used...since we r poor chaps not like you...btw it OUR MONEY,OUR BIKE,why you care what we put on our bike?you bought the bike for us??so the best is s.h.u.t.the.f.u.c.k.u.p!

 

Come on...

People is a highly paid "foreign talent".

Will he understand the pain of poor chaps like us with no money wanting to maximise the power of our bike?? :cry:

Posted
Come on...

People is a highly paid "foreign talent".

Will he understand the pain of poor chaps like us with no money wanting to maximise the power of our bike?? :cry:

 

It has nothing to do with being well paid or big bikes. It has everything to do with people accepting claims at face value, without giving a second thought if the claims can be substantiated or not.

 

There is nothing wrong with wanting more power and lower fuel consumption. Many gadgets can increase power (e.g. powercommanders, jet kits, pipes), and these are easily verified via dyno runs.

 

However, there are also plenty of devices out there that claim to perform miracles, without an ounce of proof. All they have is a buch of "butt dyno" testimonials. Furthermore, these devices seem to be able to achieve miracles by attaching themselves to seemingly unrelated parts of the bike/car.

 

Caveat Emptor, my fellow riders.

Past: KDX200, LC4 400, LC4 620, GSXR750WR

Present: CBR900RRY, Gas Gas EC250, XR250L, XR250RV, XR400 (motard-ed), NX650 Dominator

Posted

Your words are quite amusing. What does getting well paid have to do with PROPERLY questioning the actual effectiveness of "magical" add ons to your bike?

 

Even if I was rich, I would be sure to do my own homework on anything I am going to buy to make sure I am getting what I am paying for.

 

If you believe that poor people are typically brainless and buy whatever is printed on a poster such as "Increase your mileage by 100%! Just pay $100 and plug this to your battery!" or "Super magnet charges your fuel to become super fuel, just plug to your fuel tank and get 100% more mileage!", then they can be free to believe whatever a poster is selling.

 

Come on...

People is a highly paid "foreign talent".

Will he understand the pain of poor chaps like us with no money wanting to maximise the power of our bike?? :cry:

projectsenso.com - Asia's Entrepreneurs Community, bringing 1,241 entrepreneurs from Singapore, Malaysia and Philippines together!

Posted
Come on...

People is a highly paid "foreign talent".

Will he understand the pain of poor chaps like us with no money wanting to maximise the power of our bike?? :cry:

 

I am foreign and I am talented but I have my own business. So far I have put a lot of money INTO it... with luck and a few more years I may become highly paid.

 

But, I ask you, why shoot the messenger instead of listening to the message. I know you want to improve the power of your bike, but are you so gullible that you will spend money on anything that anybody says is "good" without finding out how?

 

Extra HP is expensive... it has been proven over and over again ever since the engine was invented. When someone offers you 10 percent or more HP increase for $100 you can just about bet it is a false claim, and unproven.

 

So you might not be such a "poor chap" if you exercised a bit of common sense and didn't throw your money away at every little thing without seeing proof that it could do you some good.

 

Cheers.

Posted

Strong Eagle,I agree to most of the things u said about the power and fuel consumption about the voltage stabilizers.

It doesn't really make sense to me how a electronic device connected to a battery can save fuel and increase power. That's absurd.

 

But what puzzles me is that how come after installing such a device, the vibrations are dampened ?

Care to share ur views on this ? This is something a dyno run can't prove.

 

Thanks and awaiting ur reply.

Posted

Strong Eagle, not all sellers of Voltage Stablizer claim like wat u said. Fuel saving can comes in many ways - by having efficient electrical system will also provide fuel saving bec the bike/car runs efficiently.

 

Our experience is b4 installation on a car ( auto), the car will not move forward when engaging from neutral to drive (D). After installation of our WK VS - the car move when D is engaged. Most customers after test drive feel the car being more responsive & smooth.

 

Pls enlight me if U know why.....

HP: 93891138 :angel:

Posted

limbat,

 

"User feeling" can always be tested with a double blind, plaebo test. Whatever "feeling" that is derived from the test can then be verified against scientifically measured means. Whenever someone buys something that claims to do something, psychologically they willed themselves to believe it ACTUALLY does something, just FYI.

 

I have no idea what you mean when you say that a car will not move when engaging from Neutral to Drive (ie. Gear 1); isn't that what the Drive gear is SUPPOSED to do? If shifting from Neutral to Gear 1 on a bike doesn't make my bike move, then what is it supposed to do?

 

With regards to the "feeling", let's do a double blind plaebo with 4 "voltage stabilizers" and 4 dummies which looks EXACTLY the same during an afternoon with whoever wishes to view. These 8 units are to be installed in 8 exactly configured vehicles, built in the same year, used for the same purposes (ie. goods delivery), driven by 1 driver/rider + 1 passenger. They are to record what they "feel" before and after the installation. After that is done, we reveal the plaebos and we do a fact-to-fact comparison. This should put to rest any other arguements on this matter.

projectsenso.com - Asia's Entrepreneurs Community, bringing 1,241 entrepreneurs from Singapore, Malaysia and Philippines together!

Posted

Mate - like u said - u wan to conduct the test i will provide the VS. U hv a statement - now proof it. May i help u ?

 

I assume u dun drive (car) - well in a automatic car - u need to engage drive as in "D" which is mark on the gear box indicator. I am not talking abt Gear 1 (unless u are trying to confuse the readers here).

 

Pls laaa dun write so much abt testing - unless U can do it. May i Help U ?

I dun mean this as a pun - PLS SHOW ME - THE STATEMENT U MADE. "THIS SHOULD PUT TO REST ANY ARGUEMENTS ON THIS MATTER."

HP: 93891138 :angel:

Posted

Haizzzzzzzzz sometimes it is easier said than done... right ? a little gadget - an overstatement by a marketing fella & a strongly worded statement by a writer ( SE) set a trail of " eye for eye " arguement. Even the old, young, rich, pro & layman gets suck into a never ending circle.

HP: 93891138 :angel:

Posted
Mate - like u said - u wan to conduct the test i will provide the VS. U hv a statement - now proof it. May i help u ?

 

I assume u dun drive (car) - well in a automatic car - u need to engage drive as in "D" which is mark on the gear box indicator. I am not talking abt Gear 1 (unless u are trying to confuse the readers here).

 

Pls laaa dun write so much abt testing - unless U can do it. May i Help U ?

I dun mean this as a pun - PLS SHOW ME - THE STATEMENT U MADE. "THIS SHOULD PUT TO REST ANY ARGUEMENTS ON THIS MATTER."

 

ermmm... i'm confused by you here...

isn't engaging to 'D' drive means the car go to 1st gear first? or are you trying to tell forumers that there is a 'drive' gear???

or is your car different from our cars??? hahaha...

Posted

Techically U R right - but i think now is very common to have VVTI ( variable transmission ) so u hv constant "Drive" - anyway if u like so if gear 1 "D" is engage in a automatic car - the car does not move forward right ? Well maybe yr does - mine does not..

HP: 93891138 :angel:

Posted
Techically U R right - but i think now is very common to have VVTI ( variable transmission ) so u hv constant "Drive" - anyway if u like so if gear 1 "D" is engage in a automatic car - the car does not move forward right ? Well maybe yr does - mine does not..

 

I think you are referring to Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) ? Those cars do not "creep" like conventional automatic transmission.

 

But if a car is designed not to "creep", I am not sure if it's a good thing if it does ?

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