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Posted

to prevent the tube from detaching from the bottle..it is advised to use a cable tie or small hose clip to secured it.

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

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Posted

Photo0260.jpgPhoto0262.jpgPhoto0258.jpg

 

These are the spring clip and hose reducer joint 8mm to 6mm tube found at the below shop

 

Hup Teck Hardware

Blk 25, Jalan Berseh

01-114

http://www.hupteck.com

 

cheers

God in his wisdom will protect you

:pray:

Posted
[ATTACH]126533[/ATTACH][ATTACH]126535[/ATTACH][ATTACH]126539[/ATTACH]

 

These are the spring clip and hose reducer joint 8mm to 6mm tube found at the below shop

 

Hup Teck Hardware

Blk 25, Jalan Berseh

01-114

http://www.hupteck.com

 

cheers

 

thank you for the infor..now no more leaking joints...thanks buddy

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted
guys...the next clinic meet what do you want to do??

 

i look at my bike ..and feels that it is time to do some brake maintenance..how about brake fluid change,,or bleeding..?? suggestions please...

 

it is recommended that the brake fluid to be replaced every year...do you follow this reccommendation??

when was the last time you have this done..?? no idea--maybe it is as good as any time to do it now..

 

anyone know how much a bottle of brake fluid costs??

 

well we need brake bleeding expert..anyone can help?

 

uncle koh, u can used a bottle like those use for chicken rice sauce, attach a hose like those u use for the oiler, and squeeze the bottle then the other end u attach to the rubber nipple of the brake caliper, from there the bottle will vacuum the brake fluid.

 

but before bleeding the brake fluid, best is to open the brake reservoir cover 1st, as the screws might have a tendency to get rounded before ur able to screw it out, so its best to have a rounded screw but with brake fluid in the reservoir, then to have a rounded screw but no brake fluid in it....

 

a bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid ard 500ml should not cost more than 12 bucks, u can get them from petrol kiosk. DOT 5 should be the best, as it is retarded to moisture retention, and has extreme high boiling points...but then again cruisers won't be on that kind of braking situation like those on track days, where boiling of brake fluid is almost existent....

Go as far as you can see; when you get there, you'll be able to see farther.

J. P. Morgan

Posted

yeah..great idea man to introduce a vaccum to suck out the brake fluid..

thanks for the tips..

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

Hi these are the improvement I made to the Oiler from the Clinic the last time.

First the Hose connecting the Bottle to the smaller hose.

 

I cut a T-shaped slit to make a catch to clip onto the pump's head. :)

 

Although air should still flow through, I still poked a hole a near the nozzle just in case there is still airlock.

 

Next I tested it, it was a snug fit, and the whole thing didn't use any glue or cable tie. Neat! :smile:

1st Cut.jpg

Putting it in.jpg

Snug as a bug.jpg

Motorcyclist are the nicest people on the road, try not to kill us.

Posted (edited)

Some people got their bottle cracking, leaking or lossening during the ride, so I figuered that it, since we can't strap the bottle too tight otherwise it will crack or too loose otherwise it will fly off, it better not to strap the bottle at all.

Well not directly anyway. :cheeky:

So I got a Jia Jia Herbal tea drink can and cut the bottom off using a can opener. :D

 

Then I plucked away the tab inside, and slot the hose through the opening and through the hole for the straw! Then in goes the entire bottle! Yeah! Now I can strap the whole assembly to the Bike without having to worrying about it flying off or cracking under pressure.

 

I will put a layer of newspaper inside the can for padding and cover the top with a layer of rubber to water proof it before I reattaching it back to my Bike. I will post the rest when I am done. :)

Jia Jia Herbal tea.jpg

Prefect fit.jpg

Another view of the catch.jpg

Edited by Silent Hunter

Motorcyclist are the nicest people on the road, try not to kill us.

Posted
uncle koh, u can used a bottle like those use for chicken rice sauce, attach a hose like those u use for the oiler, and squeeze the bottle then the other end u attach to the rubber nipple of the brake caliper, from there the bottle will vacuum the brake fluid.

 

but before bleeding the brake fluid, best is to open the brake reservoir cover 1st, as the screws might have a tendency to get rounded before ur able to screw it out, so its best to have a rounded screw but with brake fluid in the reservoir, then to have a rounded screw but no brake fluid in it....

 

a bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid ard 500ml should not cost more than 12 bucks, u can get them from petrol kiosk. DOT 5 should be the best, as it is retarded to moisture retention, and has extreme high boiling points...but then again cruisers won't be on that kind of braking situation like those on track days, where boiling of brake fluid is almost existent....

 

Just a cautionary note for the uninitiated reading, don't mix DOT 5 fluid into your existing DOT 3/4 reservoir!

Posted
Hi these are the improvement I made to the Oiler from the Clinic the last time.

First the Hose connecting the Bottle to the smaller hose.

 

I cut a T-shaped slit to make a catch to clip onto the pump's head. :)

 

Although air should still flow through, I still poked a hole a near the nozzle just in case there is still airlock.

 

Next I tested it, it was a snug fit, and the whole thing didn't use any glue or cable tie. Neat! :smile:

 

this is neat man...

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted
Just a cautionary note for the uninitiated reading, don't mix DOT 5 fluid into your existing DOT 3/4 reservoir!

 

why cannot mix?

anyway dot4 seems to be the one to use for the average biker

 

will take note...

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

lets say average ride per day is 20 km..

dose quantity is 1.5ml..

 

therefore lub oil usage is 30km/ml...ie 30,000km/L

ie you will take 1,500 days to consume 1 L of lub oil...

hahahah that means average rider takes about 4 years to consume 1 L of lub oil...

 

yeah..if chain can last say 60,000km..it will take 8 years to replace chain..

the cost is 2L of lub oil=$20..plus 3000 doses/pump actions.

 

wah your $6 oiler really going to save u alot....

2 sets of chians and sprockets..in 8years (average ride /day=20km)

better fuel consumption

better accelaration

less noise/less vibration from chain...smoother ride

and the best thing is that i dont have to break my back to clean it...

 

wow...it is my bestest investment in the bike...

those who did not install..eat your heart out...woohooo.

..:cheers:

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted
why cannot mix?

anyway dot4 seems to be the one to use for the average biker

 

will take note...

 

Missed this post... Coz DOT3/4 are polyglycol based and DOT5 is silicone based, and have very different reaction with respect to water...

 

Pulled this off the net that nicely sums up the different type of brake fluids in layman's terms.

 

http://www.ducatimonster.org/faq/faq_brake_fluid.html

DOT3

 

DOT3 brake fluid is the "conventional" brake fluid used in most vehicles. One of the most familiar brands is "Prestone."

 

Advantages:

- DOT3 fluid is inexpensive, and available at most gas stations, department stores, and any auto parts store.

 

Disadvantages:

- DOT3 will damage natural rubber brake seals and should not be used in any vehicle suspected of having natural rubber seals

- DOT3 fluid eats paint!

- DOT3 fluid absorbs water very readily. (This is often referred to as being hydroscopic.) As such, once a container of DOT3 has been opened, it should not be stored for periods much longer than a week before use.

- Since DOT3 fluid absorbs water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders.

 

DOT4

 

DOT4 brake fluid is the brake fluid suggested for use in late model vehicles.

 

Advantages:

- DOT4 fluid is available at most auto parts stores, and at some (but not all) gas stations or department stores.

- DOT4 fluid does not absorb water as readily as DOT3 fluid.

- DOT4 fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3 fluid, making it more suitable for high performance applications where the brake systems are expected to get hot.

 

Disadvantages:

- DOT4 fluid eats paint! Small leaks around the master cylinder will eventually dissolve away the paint on your bodywork in the general vicinity of the leak.

- DOT4 fluid is generally about 50% more expensive than DOT3 fluid.

- Since DOT4 fluid still absorbs some water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders.

 

DOT5

 

DOT5 brake fluid is also known as "silicone" brake fluid.

 

Advantages:

- DOT5 doesn't eat paint.

- DOT5 does not absorb water and may be useful where water absorption is a problem.

- DOT5 is compatible with all rubber formulations. (See more on this under disadvantages, below.)

 

Disadvantages:

- DOT5 does NOT mix with DOT3 or DOT4. Most reported problems with DOT5 are probably due to some degree of mixing with other fluid types. The best way to convert to DOT5 is to totally rebuild the hydraulic system.

- Reports of DOT5 causing premature failure of rubber brake parts were more common with early DOT5 formulations. This is thought to be due to improper addition of swelling agents and has been fixed in recent formulations.

- Since DOT5 does not absorb water, any moisture in the hydraulic system will "puddle" in one place. This can cause localized corrosion in the hydraulics.

Careful bleeding is required to get all of the air out of the system. Small bubbles can form in the fluid that will form large bubbles over time. It may be necessary to do a series of bleeds.

- DOT5 is slightly compressible (giving a very slightly soft pedal), and has a lower boiling point than DOT4.

- DOT5 is about twice as expensive as DOT4 fluid. It is also difficult to find, generally only available at selected auto parts stores.

 

DOT5.1

 

DOT5.1 is a relatively new brake fluid that is causing no end of confusion amongst mechanics. The DOT could avoid a lot of confusion by giving this new fluid a different designation. The 5.1 designation could lead one to believe that it's a modification of silicone-based DOT 5 brake fluid. Calling it 4.1 or 6 might have been more appropriate since it's a glycol-based fluid like the DOT 3 and 4 types, not silicone-based like DOT 5 fluid.

 

As far as the basic behavior of 5.1 fluids, they are much like "high performance" DOT4 fluids, rather than traditional DOT5 brake fluids.

 

Advantages:

- DOT5.1 provides superior performance over the other brake fluids discussed here. It has a higher boiling point, either dry or wet, than DOT 3 or 4. In fact, its dry boiling point (about 275 degrees C) is almost as high as racing fluid (about 300 degrees C) and 5.1's wet boiling point (about 175 to 200 degrees C) is naturally much higher than racing's (about 145 C).

- DOT5.1 is said to be compatible with all rubber formulations.

 

Disadvantages:

- DOT5.1 fluids are non-silicone fluids and will absorb water.

- DOT5.1 fluids, like DOT3 & DOT4 will eat paint.

- DOT 5.1 fluids are difficult to find for sale, typically at very few auto parts stores, mostly limited to "speed shops."

- DOT 5.1 will be more expensive than DOT3 or DOT4, and more difficult to find.

Posted

thanks buddy for the infor...very informative.....if it can eat paints it can also corrode the aluminium fork?. thats the reason for my spotted forks??

 

during one of the visit to the garage to change the brake pump and fork seal..notice the mech flush the bike forks and calipers areas with water..maybe thtas the proper way of cleaning up after the job.

 

anyway is brake fluid similar to fork oil??

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted
guys...the next clinic meet what do you want to do??

 

i look at my bike ..and feels that it is time to do some brake maintenance..how about brake fluid change,,or bleeding..?? suggestions please...

 

it is recommended that the brake fluid to be replaced every year...do you follow this reccommendation??

when was the last time you have this done..?? no idea--maybe it is as good as any time to do it now..

 

anyone know how much a bottle of brake fluid costs??

 

well we need brake bleeding expert..anyone can help?

 

 

the next meet will be doing this....are u coming??

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

it is recommended that the bottle of brake fluid once opened to be used within 3 days...

 

anyone to share the joys of diy..???

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

hahha nobody interested..okay..in that case have o do it alone...

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

well maybe this will interest you...

DIY...seal savers...Interested??

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

Found and interesting article...bet you, the xxperienced rider cannot do all the stuff mentioned for beginners..enjoy and try??

 

 

Motorcycle Safety

 

More than half of all motorcycle accidents involve riders with less than 5 months or 500 miles of experience. The USC Hurt Report found that two-thirds of all motorcycle accidents involved riders who were unlicensed, or riding a borrowed motorcycle, or riding for their first 12 months. I cannot overemphasize that a Motorcycle Safety Foundation course is excellent preparation. If you have less than 5000 miles experience or haven't ridden in 10 years or more, go to their web site, find a class near you, and take it. It's very easy to get over confident with your riding abilities after a couple months. Don't. Motorcycles are reasonably safe to ride, but very dangerous to learn. Today, anyone with $8000 can buy a motorcycle that goes 150 mph or faster. It's also true than anyone with $150 can buy a gun that will blow their head clean off. For an inexperienced rider, there are a lot of similarities here.

 

If you haven't ridden a bike before, I recommend you get a used bike, 500ccs or less, and ride it for a year. You are going to tip over a few times. If you tip over on a new Harley or Japanese sport bike, you're likely to do several hundred dollars of damage, and likely will need help picking the bike up. If you tip over on a new Ducati, I think you should be scourged. I've trained 38 people how to ride bikes. Every one said "I'm not going to fall down, I'm going to be careful." Every one fell down. It's not about you. "Pride goeth before the fall."

 

Most of what there is to know about riding motorcycles can be learned at slow speeds, where falls are only embarrassing. A good exercise on a street bike is to find an empty parking lot and practice riding in circles until you can hold your handlebars against the stops and turn an entire circle without moving the handlebars. You steer the bike with your hips and the throttle, clutch, and rear brake. This exercise will teach you a lot about balance and throttle control, two critical skills on a street bike.

 

Another good exercise is to place your front tire on the top of a curb, and leave the rear tire in the street. This exercise is easiest if the rain gutter is a bit wet. Now, ride. Go about 5-10mph. Practice until you can keep your feet on the pegs and go for as long as you wish. This exercise is best done on a bike that weighs less than 350 pounds. This exercise will teach you balance and how to handle a bike that's not going straight.

 

Riding in the dirt is excellent preparation. You learn how to handle a bike in uncertain traction, and you get to fall down where there's no traffic waiting to run you over. Kenny Roberts, 3 time world champion, trains himself and other riders on a small dirt track on Honda XR100s. They wet down the track and practice sliding either or both wheels. Any falls are at 15mph, from a height of 2 feet.

 

On a dirt bike, find a loose surface and practice driving with the front brake locked. Ride at 5-10mph. Great for balance and learning not to fall down just because your front wheel is skidding.

 

Good bikes for 1st time riders include: Honda 250 or 450 Nighthawk or Rebel; Suzuki 250 intruder, or DR200, 250, 350, 400; Kawasaki GPZ250 or 500; Yamaha XT250 or 350. All of these bikes can be bought used for $1000 to $2000.

 

Really poor choices for 1st time riders: Any Honda CBR. Any Yamaha YZR, R1 or R6. Any Kawasaki ZZR or ZX or Ninja. Any Suzuki GSX, GSXR, TL, or Hayabusa. Any sport bike with 600ccs or more. Any of these bikes will pop wheelies at 60mph and has a top speed in excess of 150mph.

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

completed the bleeding on my bike...

wah...need 2 guys to do it ..one guy torok ah..

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

i will be making a prototype today..

will post pic when it is completed..

 

manufacturing process is a trade secret..hahah so no pictures on that..

 

some of u may not know whah is a seal saver :giddy:...google it..

scrambler and off road enthusiast should have one installed.:cheeky:

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

My seal savers...

hahah..see how long this last....

10-10-09_1855.jpg

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

Posted

yeah..sure..labour charge 1 beer..

come next meet okay??

Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time:dot:

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