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Posted
Originally posted by servoprax@Apr 14 2005, 07:08 PM

Ideal was the sole distributor for singapore for the arrow pipe sometime ago. I guess arrow still recognizes them till this day. Good for business. Now lets see how the prices go...

 

Anybody selling their rs250 ? hehe..... my butt itchy liao...

you what???

 

ok, i sell you mine for 5k... it's a bit expensive, but you know how good the condition is lor... :cheeky:

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Posted

Just got back from Ideal not long ago. The legal Arrow pipe has a HUGE stomach compared to the older/non-legal ones. It's meant to be great for top end but not so good for low down power/torque. Tempted to get a legal one at some point in the future (esp if I get the 154 kit) to test it out and compare.

 

Cheng_xi07> saw your bike.. Ouch that musta hurt. Feel sorry for you man.

 

kram> nice pic.. was that taken at the Sepang Moto GP last year?

My ride for 2012 - Yamaha WR250X 2008

Previous rides:

ROAD/FUN: Honda Sonic, VTR250, Kawa Z1000 & Kawa KSR110, Suzuki Savage

SPORT: Kawa ZXR400, Suzuki SV650, Honda CBR600F3 & CBR929RR, Aprilia RS125 & RS250,

DIRT: Honda XR200 & XR600L, DRZ-400SM, DRZ-400-S, GasGas EC200, KTM 200 EXC & 250EXC-F, Tricker

Pics @ http://www.bikepics.com/members/axxis/

Posted
Originally posted by Axxis

The legal Arrow pipe has a HUGE stomach compared to the older/non-legal ones. It's meant to be great for top end but not so good for low down power/torque.

 

Wilson at Ideal said that some people actually buy the entire legal arrow system to get the certification, then swap out the huge stomach for the smaller, non-legal arrow stomach, while keeping the legal arrow CF end can. I'm not sure if I'd go that far with my wallet, but I guess that's cuz I can legally use the RS end can.

 

With our bikes, I'm not sure if it makes sense to try and boost low-to-mid range torque considering the direct trade-off with high-end horsepower. With 4-strokers, at least the gain in low-end torque is substantial enough to justify the sacrifice. On our 2-strokers, there's a real limit to how much torque we can get before our power valve opens, so I think that it's an unbalanced trade-off and that a high-end bias makes more sense for the RS125.

 

From a maintenance standpoint, I also think it's unhealthy to encourage ourselves to cruise below 7k rpm cuz that prevents our power valves' self-cleaning feature from working. When the valve opens, it vibrates, thereby shaking off deposits. The longer we keep it open, the more gets shaken off and the less likely our valve will jam.

Posted
Originally posted by Axxis@Apr 15 2005, 02:14 PM

Just got back from Ideal not long ago. The legal Arrow pipe has a HUGE stomach compared to the older/non-legal ones. It's meant to be great for top end but not so good for low down power/torque. Tempted to get a legal one at some point in the future (esp if I get the 154 kit) to test it out and compare.

 

Cheng_xi07> saw your bike.. Ouch that musta hurt. Feel sorry for you man.

 

kram> nice pic.. was that taken at the Sepang Moto GP last year?

hey Chris, how the carb?? did Ah Boon manage to fix it for ya??

 

hey.. forget about getting the legal arrow when ya using the bike for track..

get jolly moto.. my fren paid 800$ for a jolly moto full system, mild steel stomach and clean aluminium end can.. it looks like a stock RS pipe! and the power!! unbelievable!! the bike simply shakes when ya rev it hard!! the sound is loud and heavy. he got it from pleasure motor sport.. but if ya import the system yaself.. for less than 800$, ya can get the full system with carbon/kelvar end can..

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2652402314_eb7483892a_o.jpg
Posted

I left the bike and stuff (carb/pipe) there. Will know more later today or tomorrow.

 

No intention to get the pipe for now. Will only do so if I actually enjoy riding this bike and PG and know I'm gonna keep it for some time. Then I will get the legal arrow so I don't have to stress about getting caught on the way to or from the causeway. Slim chance but the peace of mind could be worth it in the end.

My ride for 2012 - Yamaha WR250X 2008

Previous rides:

ROAD/FUN: Honda Sonic, VTR250, Kawa Z1000 & Kawa KSR110, Suzuki Savage

SPORT: Kawa ZXR400, Suzuki SV650, Honda CBR600F3 & CBR929RR, Aprilia RS125 & RS250,

DIRT: Honda XR200 & XR600L, DRZ-400SM, DRZ-400-S, GasGas EC200, KTM 200 EXC & 250EXC-F, Tricker

Pics @ http://www.bikepics.com/members/axxis/

Posted
Originally posted by eyz@Apr 15 2005, 03:27 PM

hey Chris, how the carb?? did Ah Boon manage to fix it for ya??

 

hey.. forget about getting the legal arrow when ya using the bike for track..

get jolly moto.. my fren paid 800$ for a jolly moto full system, mild steel stomach and clean aluminium end can.. it looks like a stock RS pipe! and the power!! unbelievable!! the bike simply shakes when ya rev it hard!! the sound is loud and heavy. he got it from pleasure motor sport.. but if ya import the system yaself.. for less than 800$, ya can get the full system with carbon/kelvar end can..

Chinguan, are u referring to desmond or edmund who is importing in Jolly Moto?

Always be prepared.

Posted
Originally posted by amonamarth@Apr 15 2005, 04:15 PM

Chinguan, are u referring to desmond or edmund who is importing in Jolly Moto?

yup desmond already got it.. he bought it from pleasure motor sport.. heard they only got a piece.. so if ya want, ya can ask pleasure motor.. alternatively, ya can import it on ya own.. it'll cost less than 800$ for a CF full system..

 

chris, if ya just using ya RS only for track.. the chances of the tp catching hold ya is slim.. moreover when ya stopped, most probably ya'll be in ya race suit and passport on the way to the causeway, just tell them ya going down track, that's why the pipe.. i think they shud be "reasonable enough" to let you off...

but don't look for me when ya fined 500$ kaka

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2652402314_eb7483892a_o.jpg
Posted

wilson at ideal just told me that they've raised the fine to $750 recently. Dunno if true or not.

:|

My ride for 2012 - Yamaha WR250X 2008

Previous rides:

ROAD/FUN: Honda Sonic, VTR250, Kawa Z1000 & Kawa KSR110, Suzuki Savage

SPORT: Kawa ZXR400, Suzuki SV650, Honda CBR600F3 & CBR929RR, Aprilia RS125 & RS250,

DIRT: Honda XR200 & XR600L, DRZ-400SM, DRZ-400-S, GasGas EC200, KTM 200 EXC & 250EXC-F, Tricker

Pics @ http://www.bikepics.com/members/axxis/

Posted
Originally posted by Axxis@Apr 15 2005, 05:42 PM

wilson at ideal just told me that they've raised the fine to $750 recently. Dunno if true or not.

:|

umm i think that's for repeated offender...

anyway.. lawrence has been using his aello since Dec.. hmm so far he hasn't meet any white phantom yet...

hahaha but but who knows after my posting.. he............

sorry lawrence, don't come after me if ya happened to be stopped by 1...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2652402314_eb7483892a_o.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by eyz@Apr 15 2005, 05:37 PM

yup desmond already got it.. he bought it from pleasure motor sport.. heard they only got a piece.. so if ya want, ya can ask pleasure motor.. alternatively, ya can import it on ya own.. it'll cost less than 800$ for a CF full system..

 

chris, if ya just using ya RS only for track.. the chances of the tp catching hold ya is slim.. moreover when ya stopped, most probably ya'll be in ya race suit and passport on the way to the causeway, just tell them ya going down track, that's why the pipe.. i think they shud be "reasonable enough" to let you off...

but don't look for me when ya fined 500$ kaka

is the pipe certified?

Always be prepared.

Posted
Originally posted by skiner@Apr 15 2005, 12:18 AM

hi guys,

 

I just change to riding a aprilia recently. And the handling just blows me away.

Just one question which i hope you can help.

 

I find that the rear brake is a bit weak i.e. when i depress the brake lever, i must press all the way and even then the bike does not really slows downa lot..

does it has something to do with the brake fliud. as in fluid low. thats why i must depress a lot. Can topping up help?

 

Thanks.

toh where are you? outing?

i love beautiful ppl,rider&bikes

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w114/kram_6/pp.jpghttp://www.dreamgate.ne.jp/NSR/Gallery/gp2_02tn.jpghttp://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w114/kram_6/KramClose6.jpg

Posted
Originally posted by amonamarth@Apr 15 2005, 07:03 PM

is the pipe certified?

umm.. hell no..

but if ya riding a 02/03/04 Rs 125.. i think ya can easily evade TPs' attention by using the aluminium end jolly moto..

can smoke people, letting them think ya using the original rs pipe but with awesome power..

only thing is ya can't flaunt ya own a jolly moto.. just a clean piece of aluminium..

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2652402314_eb7483892a_o.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by eyz@Apr 15 2005, 12:45 AM

cheng xi, what happened to ya bike?

ya got into an accident? still ok?

amonamarth n axxis, u all saw my bike right? give mi a opinion leh.. scrap or repair? really dilemma.. servo will help mi tk a look tml.. eyz.. its tt accident la.. seeing the bike will know how much it hurts mi physically n financially plus emotionally... anyway, thanks aoc, since i buang i received lotsa help from eyz, servo n lacri... these r pple tt really bring aoc together man n i really thank u all... hee....:cheer: :cheer: :cheer: .. 3 cheers for 3 of u all... hahaa....

Posted

eh.. i haven't seen ya bike yet.. but don't worry bout the bike lah..

worse case scenario, scrap and go public.. be glad that ya alright..

i haven't see the state of ya bike is in now.. scrap or rebuild, ya do a rough calculation on the cost to rebuild it.. if ya scrap it.. either ya sell it to a scrap yard or ya sell it in parts.. in my opinion, anything more than 1.5k would be too much.. it's just my opinion.. 2.2k ya can get my fren's kumar's bike.. FS replica.. i can help ya bargain if ya want and would still ride a ArppeeLaAa.. anyway, here's the address of the scrapyard..

 

An Ann Trading

27 Jalan Buroh Singapore 619483

Tel : 96256549 ( Chan Kok Ann)

 

Here's the map

 

Turn into the building and ya'll see 2 huge warehouse on both side.. the scrap parts store is on the right.. ya can find him by seeing his signboard.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2652402314_eb7483892a_o.jpg
Posted

guys i was just wondering ah if can use the arrow systems and other mods for aprillia on other sportbikes in the 2b category like KRR or SP ? i mean if there are mods for aprillias there shud be for sp's and krr's rite ? or how abt changing the engine or making it to bigger cc conversion ? im jus curious lolz.. im a newbie lor anyway.. still taking ma license.. ty.

Posted
Originally posted by cheng_xi07@Apr 16 2005, 12:05 AM

amonamarth n axxis, u all saw my bike right? give mi a opinion leh.. scrap or repair? really dilemma.. servo will help mi tk a look tml.. eyz.. its tt accident la.. seeing the bike will know how much it hurts mi physically n financially plus emotionally... anyway, thanks aoc, since i buang i received lotsa help from eyz, servo n lacri... these r pple tt really bring aoc together man n i really thank u all... hee....:cheer: :cheer: :cheer: .. 3 cheers for 3 of u all... hahaa....

cheng xi, IMO scrap it. it will cost too much to repair.

Always be prepared.

Posted
Originally posted by eyz@Apr 15 2005, 12:50 AM

arghhh

i'd that problem too..

changed my brake pump kit few weeks back.. brake back to normal..

now, the same thing happened again... i bleed the brake.. but it seems that

one of the pistons in the caliper is not working... unable to bleed..

think gotta change the caliper kit.. sianz...

wat u mean by bleeding?

 

anyway,last time i had this problem.then went to ideal.at first change brake pad.then after a while spoil again.cost $35.

 

then change rear brake pump kit.the one with the spring.the so called most easily spoiled part.then ride for 20mins,have to go back ideal.brakes down again.cost $95.

 

finally,ah boon changed another part located on top of the spring thing..some small little nut like thing.called rear stop switch.cost $32.then only did my brake problems stopped.ah boon said it was leaking or smth like that.makes me wonder was my previous $95 well spent..hmm..

 

damn ex(to me) just to fix brakes although it is damn important.maybe u can see if it is the rear stop switch spoil.

Dec 04 - Nov 05 : Aprilia RS 125

Feb 06 - May 07 : Honda CB400 Spec III

July 07 - Mar 08 : Honda CBR1000RR 04

Jun 08 - Mar 10 : Vespa GT200

Jun 14 - ? : Honda RVF

Posted
Originally posted by efferverscence@Apr 16 2005, 08:42 AM

wat u mean by bleeding?

Our brakes (and clutch) are hydraulically operated. When we put pressure on the front/rear brake levers, it activates the front/rear brake pump cylinder, which pumps brake fluid (DOT4/DOT5) through the brake fluid tubes (also called brake lines), which end up pushing out the pistons in our brake callipers onto the brake pads.

 

Sometimes, air bubbles can enter the brake lines. This can happen through leaking tubes, loose connections, or faulty brake cylinder pumps. Also, brake fluid degrades when exposed to air by absorbing water vapour. In both cases, it prevents the brake fluid from doing its job.

 

This requires bleeding, which involves opening little spouts on our callipers (called bleeding nipples), and letting brake fluid squirt out until you don't see any more bubbles, or, in the case of contamination, until either a lot comes out or the colour of the fluid changes back to normal.

 

If you're doing this yourself, you'll have to press the brake lever first to build up fluid pressure, then open (unscrew) the brake nipple. As the fluid comes out of the nipple, the lever will go down. Close the nipple before the lever goes all the way in. Release the lever to let it return to the normal position, then repeat the process. While doing this, keep topping up the brake fluid in the brake reservoir and never let it drop below minimum.

 

Workshops have what are called bleeding machines, which make this process a lot easier, so you might want to either borrow one or leave it to a mechanic.

 

When you're bleeding so much fluid out that you're basically replacing it with new one, it's called flushing. Flushing is best done with a bleeding machine.

 

Please remember that brake fluid is extremely corrosive so don't let it get on the rest of your bike, and wash the bleeding area thoroughly afterwards. To give you an idea how happening the fluid is, in the army, when WD-40 couldn't loosen a rusted nut, we would apply brake fluid. Worked every time. Scary or not?

 

P.S. Don't do bleeding yourself unless you're sure of what you're doing cuz brakes are no joke. I'm not responsible for accidents.

Posted
Originally posted by efferverscence@Apr 16 2005, 08:42 AM

wat u mean by bleeding?

 

anyway,last time i had this problem.then went to ideal.at first change brake pad.then after a while spoil again.cost $35.

 

then change rear brake pump kit.the one with the spring.the so called most easily spoiled part.then ride for 20mins,have to go back ideal.brakes down again.cost $95.

 

finally,ah boon changed another part located on top of the spring thing..some small little nut like thing.called rear stop switch.cost $32.then only did my brake problems stopped.ah boon said it was leaking or smth like that.makes me wonder was my previous $95 well spent..hmm..

 

damn ex(to me) just to fix brakes although it is damn important.maybe u can see if it is the rear stop switch spoil.

i change the rear brake pump kit the 1st time..

it went ok for a few weeks and.. i think i was too happy with the brake,

and i stepped my rear brake real hard.. that was the last straw..

haha

anyway, after changing the rear brake pump kit for the 1st time..

the problem wasn't immediately.. my mech took ard 2 - 3 hours to get the brake back working..

now that it spoils again.. i dismantle the rear break caliper out to have a look..

when i depress the rear brake lever, only one of the 2 piston in the brake caliper

is working.. so i suspect it's the brake pistons.. mayb the oil seal is leaking..

 

it's really vexed when ya mechanic is simply lazy and don't bother to find the root

of the problem.. which is why most of the time, i would rather do it myself rather

than sendin to my mech...

 

same as my ignition.. previously when i turn on my ignition, there's no power..

when i told my mech about it over the phone.. he said i need to change ignition..

need to remove the fork and etc.. fed up with the "spoil and change" attitude..

i dismantle my ignition, break it open and sprayed some WD40 into it.. stick it back

with some duct tape.. and it's back working.. i don't even need to remove the fork!

not only ya got the sense of achievement.. but ya save tonnes of money exploring

stuffs on ya own..

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2652402314_eb7483892a_o.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by muser@Apr 16 2005, 02:39 PM

Close the nipple before the lever goes all the way in. Release the lever to let it return to the normal position, then repeat the process.

thanks dude! i think i'd missed this part which is why i can't get a good bleed!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2652402314_eb7483892a_o.jpg
Posted

Hi to all Aprilia riders,

 

 

Can anybody care to share with me where is the cheapest place to change my tires (GPR70)??? i think HKL shld be the best price ard rite?

 

 

Any comments on the CALTEX REVTEX 2T (Low smoke and JASO FC, API TC SAE GRADE F/M 2), i brought this at the Caltex petrol station in JB (RM$16.80) and the performance on my bike is not bike. Pickup improve alot and less smoke too, was using castrol R2 last time round.

 

 

Hope to hear some advice from you guys.

 

Cheers

:smile:

Sometimes you have to lose everything before you know what you really have.

Posted
Originally posted by bluesea01@Apr 16 2005, 10:14 PM

Hi to all Aprilia riders,

 

 

Can anybody care to share with me where is the cheapest place to change my tires (GPR70)??? i think HKL shld be the best price ard rite?

 

 

Any comments on the CALTEX REVTEX 2T (Low smoke and JASO FC, API TC SAE GRADE F/M 2), i brought this at the Caltex petrol station in JB (RM$16.80) and the performance on my bike is not bike. Pickup improve alot and less smoke too, was using castrol R2 last time round.

 

 

Hope to hear some advice from you guys.

 

Cheers

:smile:

GPR 70 at 199$ from Lim Ah Boy..

installation inclusive.. workmanship - shitty...

need to monitor the mechanic doing it..

overall "should" be ok..

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2652402314_eb7483892a_o.jpg
Posted
Originally posted by eyz+-->
QUOTE (eyz)
thanks dude! i think i'd missed this part which is why i can't get a good bleed![/b]

Glad I could be of help bro! That step is quite crucial, not only to maintain bleeding pressure, but also to make sure that no air goes in.

 

Originally posted by eyz@

not only ya got the sense of achievement.. but ya save tonnes of money exploring

stuffs on ya own

Chin Guan, I really respect you for having the determination and taking the time to work on your bike. I agree you with 100%, and wish I was smarter and less lazy. Mechanical stuff I can handle. Anything electrical I really can't make it :faint:

 

Posted
Originally posted by warren84@Apr 17 2005, 12:52 AM

hey all, to rs250 owner, mi looking for the front brake dise,,,sms 91502864

saw ur bike at pleasure altho i didnt noe which one was u.

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