[Technical] Queries for TA200

[Silent Hunter]

Can't tell from here.

Got to see the bike then can tell.

 

You can always take it to Planet the next oil change and ask Ah Chong to have a look. He doesn't charge extra for diagnosing.

[sawfly]

Can't tell from here.

Got to see the bike then can tell.

 

You can always take it to Planet the next oil change and ask Ah Chong to have a look. He doesn't charge extra for diagnosing.

Indeed.. And what I was thinking of was just find a expyway in the night maybe kje where there is no car just clutch in and out and drag the clutch abit.. U might get a clue if u record and give ah chong more information after that..

[sawfly]

Btw anyone staying in west or north have spare unwanted usable brake pad for rear brake? I got no time to go down till Saturday during the day but the rear caliper piston is stuck and dragging liaooo

[ZenMan]

Hi,

Does anyone know where to get the tank logo cheap? Dropped my bike and left a huge scratch on the logo.

 

Mine is the 2nd gen logo I believe, the words not so big one. Looking for left side logo

 

 

Thanks in advance

[pavanpatidar]

Hi Guys, I recently purchased a Phantom TA200. It's a 10+ yr old bike but previous owner said it is in excellent condition and he never had any problems.

I found it otherwise though in the 2 months that i have been riding it so far. Within 20 days of riding it, it came to a complete stop and cannot start it.

Towed it and found that the magnetic coil was spoilt.

Didn't know about Planet motors then so the towing guy took to some shop in lavendar st who charged 300+ for the magnetic coil(they said it comes two types. the Local one cost abt 150$ and original Honda costs about 300$. I went for the original one since still have 9+ yrs COE left)

Then last week drove it for a while in rain and it stopped half way thru. Not sure what the problem so had to tow again.

This time the mechanic told water went inside carburetor. I am not sure how water can go inside carburetor. He just flush it out and it started working.

For my satisfaction i asked him to change spark plug as well (as not sure how old already).

Would somebody be kind enough to suggest me on few things:

- How do i prevent water from goin inside carburetor. I mean cann't simply avoid rains in SGP. Most of the times you start from home with no rains but half way thru you find rains.

- Or is it that spark plug may be getting wet. I checked spark plug cover and it looks good. Any way to prevent water from reaching spark plug?

- Recently notice my bike getting very hot after riding it for about 15kms or so. Once hot the gearing also not so smooth. Also i feel the fuel consumption I am getting is more than 44kms per liter.\

Read the other thread about fuel consumption it may be running too lean? what should i do about it? Also the pickup not so good. Can hardly reach speed of more than 80-90 km/h on expressways in 6th gear.

Could it be because of engine running hot as well? Showed the bike to Ah Chong at planet motors last sat but he said no issues in bike currently.

- Also hear tick tick sound after turning off bike (after the ride). Per the FAQ, it could be CAM Chain tensioner? But Ah chong said it is normal since engine becomes hot after ride so it is normal to have tick tick sound after turning off.

 

 

Sorry for the long message and greatly appreciate any responses.

[ezzyoiler]

how water gets into carburetta?/

well it gets into the carb via the petrol/

..

the petrol is mixed with water...make sure you have a good working petrol cap..

not only water..sometimnes old bike have bad fuel...ie

rust and sediment..for one..

bad petrol..old petrol sitting in tank eg..

 

take a look at the carburetta cup..remove it,,and i am sure you will see a yellow interior...these are varnishes ...rubbish...etc that is deposited in your carbureeta walls after many years of usage..this may foul up your petrol..solution gets the carb a thorough clean...flushing cannot remove this..

 

so you see old bikes have problems in the petrol tank mainly rust and sediments,,water etc..

carb is old and tired..with deposit of varnish..etc

 

the temporary solution is fix a petrol filter..to frilter out the solid impurities...you can see the filter going bad..this indicate you have a serious problem with the fuel...

 

old bikes time to check to make sure the spark plug cap/cable is in great condition..ie no leaking of high voltages..you will be good.

 

water dont get into spark plug..if it does..oh boy hope the spark thread can be repaired if not...xxxxx

 

good luck and enjoy your ride...

[sprocketty]

Hi all, some random stalling issues with my phantom:

 

-One day at underground carpark, bike stalled after came down ramp. No matter how much I eletric start, it will not start.

-I push to corner, try a few min more, didn't work.

-I try to do running push start. Also didn't work.

-I spend another 5 min playing around with choke, bike started!!! I gey kiang, switch off (to test if its permanently fixed), cannot start anymore.

-Try again few min of playing with choke and starting. FINALLY bike started. This time, I keep high rev, and immediately left carpark and go straight to home (high rev the entire time).

 

When got home, I check air filter. Seemed a little dirty. So I try starting bike WITHOUT air filter. Seems to start quickly and easily!. So I buy new air filter. Change, and everything SEEMS back to normal.

 

Now, randomly, at stoplight / random idling, engine will stall. It will take 3-5 electric starts to get it going again. Happen twice in 2 days liao.

 

--EO changed abt 800km ago

--Spark plug new (abt 1000km)

--Top overhaul abt 1500km ago

--Filter changed (just)

--Battery changed (1000km ago. No problem with starter moter)

--Choke cable also changed at planet abt 500km ago.

--it is not idle knob problem, coz apart from cold start in morning, bike idles perfectly most of the time.

 

Any other ideas what this problem could be? I was considering going to Ah Chong, but problem is intermittent, so I'm not sure if he can diagnose it even.

 

Appreciate any advice.

 

Thanks

[sawfly]

Have u tried e start with throttle slightly open or more? If this starts the bike more easily, prelim guess is that your idle circuit air fuel mixture too rich.

[sprocketty]

Hi Sawfly,

 

Usually starting is not a problem at all. One press start. The only time I have problem starting is when:

 

1. cold start (but if choke is open, still can one push start) --> this is quite common, but easily solved by opening choke.

 

2. Random stalls (which happens even when bike is good warmed up, and I'm most scared off) --> This takes 3-5 times of cranking. Usually, what I do is just crank and playing with throttle before it starts by the 5th crank.

 

It might be air fuel mixture is cock up after I changed filter. Maybe I shall paly with the air fuel screw?

 

The problem is this is an intermittent thing. I can't replicate it consistently. It's just random.... My biggest fear is when I'm blocking people (carpark ramp etc) and bike stall and no space to move bike out.

[sawfly]

for point 1, u mean cold start difficult when u pull choke or didnt pull choke? if too rich, pull choke also cannot start.

cold start difficult to start with rich mixture partly because difficult to ignite a/f mixture. look at your plugs see if it's fouled as well and do a spark test.

spark plug usually no problem one can last for a long time unless got issues during running.

 

if u want to play with air fuel screw adjust a little bit only. 5 degree interval that kind of adjustment every ride.

intermittent is one thing, but playing a/f screw wont help if got other hidden issues. (of cos we all hope its simpler end of the day)

[sawfly]

btw, recently weather very cold and moist. im running super richhhhh - which doesnt make sense

[sprocketty]

for point 1, u mean cold start difficult when u pull choke or didnt pull choke? if too rich, pull choke also cannot start.

--> Usually cold start bike will not start unless I pull choke. After pull choke, one or two times bike will start.

 

cold start difficult to start with rich mixture partly because difficult to ignite a/f mixture.

--> I am beginning to think is rich mixture. Because I seem to smell fuel smell after riding. Previously I don't remember this. I suspect after I change air filter, the A/F all need to readjust.

 

 

look at your plugs see if it's fouled as well and do a spark test.

spark plug usually no problem one can last for a long time unless got issues during running.

if u want to play with air fuel screw adjust a little bit only. 5 degree interval that kind of adjustment every ride.

intermittent is one thing, but playing a/f screw wont help if got other hidden issues. (of cos we all hope its simpler end of the day)

 

--> Thanks bro!

[sawfly]

No problem! Actually may not be too serious a problem because recently the rain cause air to be more cold and wet and less O2 and u might have to lean out a bit.

 

Just wondering what petrol you are using? I only had to pull choke when I'm using vpower the entire time I'm riding ta200.

[bobokw]

Anyone have this problem, the slight feeling of deceleration when your bike is running out of petrol, but the problem is i refueled, it's happening for about 2 days already. Freaked me out on the highway thinking it's gonna die.

[j1605198987]

what can be the causes of inconsistent idling on a ta200? thanks

[wywsyy]

i used to get that after like 2 hrs on the expressway, could be because it's too hot?

[veins]

hi

 

anyone knows where i can get a luggage rack for my phantom... can fit like those cabin crew bag size or a picnic basket like that.

 

thanks in advance.

[oahihz]

hi guys,

 

recently i've noticed my phantom's chain emits a very loud grinding sound. it sounds rather unhealthy, as if the sprocket and chain are constantly grinding the life out of each other. i've tried applying chain lube frequently but the problem persists. anyone knowledgeable to enlighten me on how i can fix this?

[sawfly]

Anyone have this problem, the slight feeling of deceleration when your bike is running out of petrol, but the problem is i refueled, it's happening for about 2 days already. Freaked me out on the highway thinking it's gonna die.

 

what can be the causes of inconsistent idling on a ta200? thanks

 

check the usual consumables first (air filter + spark plug).

could be an improper a/f mixture (too rich or too lean). if too rich, could be choked filter.

recently the haze quite bad. before that the air was super humid.

(air filter should be translucent when held up to air) do consider the replacing the consumables first before troubleshooting elsewhere.

 

i used to get that after like 2 hrs on the expressway, could be because it's too hot?

 

if you are running hot and if your a/f mixture is lean, normal to lose power after > 1 hr especially in heavy traffic.

(hear the engine with very slight throttle opening - if harsh and sharp sound = ~ lean; warbling ~ rich)

 

hi guys,

 

recently i've noticed my phantom's chain emits a very loud grinding sound. it sounds rather unhealthy, as if the sprocket and chain are constantly grinding the life out of each other. i've tried applying chain lube frequently but the problem persists. anyone knowledgeable to enlighten me on how i can fix this?

 

you might want to check the chain tension/ free play ,the roller, the chain guides and the sprockets first

sometimes sprockets bent out of shape but not totally worn yet not obvious also. best is to bring to shop for a quick look through.

another way to check is to push the bike along a path with engine off. easier to trace the chain sound.

[pavanpatidar]

hi Guys, my TA200 was running lean(I think because it was getting quiet hot after ride of about 18kms, fuel consumption at about 43-44km/ltr). After suggestion and reading on this forums, i try to make it richer. I turn the carb screw clockwise by half turn(180 deg) but then it was turning off if no throttle applied, so i adjust back to 1/4th turn(90 deg from original position of lean run). don't feel much improvement. still feel it is getting hot and using less fuel. Also once in couple of days hearing the backfire sound. Today morning though heard the backfire more than 2-3 times. could be due to hazy conditions? What do you suggest should i turn it further to make it more richer? Just to confirm again, turning clockwise is to make richer right?

[sawfly]

Half a turn is a lot. Adjust in steps Of 1/24 of a turn. Anyway before you tune the carb, recommend should change filter and spark plug first . Or else later retune. Also, tune only when engine warm up from cold like 5-10 min, not after long run.

 

If problem don't go away after change filter spark plug and slight adjustment, then could be other problem liao. Air suction v/v spoilt also will backfir but not a cause of lean a/f

[goofy]

Today when the weather is hot and I started the bike for the first time, it is gargling when I turn the throttle and it was like no strength and jerky like that.

 

this usually settle down in 15 mins riding and it will become smooth. I have recently forgotten how many rounds on the AF. I am suspecting it is running too rich given the aftenoon heat.

 

1 week old air filter, new spark, I am sure it is the carb, am I correct to say it is running to rich? I replaced the iridium to normal so that I can read it. Advice?

[Silent Hunter]

My Phantom was getting around 40km+++ km per litre many years back. The spark plug was white back then.

The spark plug is now light brown.

 

To solve your problem...

 

After turning the Air:Fuel ration screw clockwise, the bike runs richer.

 

When it runs richer, the RPM goes slower.

 

To counter that, turn the idling screw 1/4 round to make it run faster. Turn more if not enough to prevent the engine from stalling.

 

It should be fine after that.

 

You might be thinking increase fuel ratio, RPM goes down, temperature cooler, then if I up the idling to make the RPM faster won't it be back to square one?

 

No. Because the fuel mixture is richer, there will be some unburnt fuel in the exhaust and this extra unburnt petrol will carry the heat away.

[sawfly]

Today when the weather is hot and I started the bike for the first time, it is gargling when I turn the throttle and it was like no strength and jerky like that.

 

this usually settle down in 15 mins riding and it will become smooth. I have recently forgotten how many rounds on the AF. I am suspecting it is running too rich given the aftenoon heat.

 

1 week old air filter, new spark, I am sure it is the carb, am I correct to say it is running to rich? I replaced the iridium to normal so that I can read it. Advice?

 

bro, cannot just tell u whether rich/lean just by guessing leh.

clear cut way to find out if you are running lean or rich is to perform idle drop procedure.

- using a tacho, after warm up from cold to operating temp:

- lean out the a/f by turning out ccw. if the rpm rises, engine sound proceed from warbling to harsh sound - that would mean u were rich and is now lean post adjustment.

- on the converse, if you lean out the a/f and the rpm *drops*, most probably lean.

- the magic spot to attain would be to richen to the point where rpm rises and then slightly drops, then monitor the next few days from there.

 

i read before some ppl without a tacho will turn up the idle adjust knob to around 2k rpm to hear the change in rpm when adjusting the a/f screw.

(im not convinced by this method because engine might turn hot faster. i dont perform idle drop for too long for same reason.)

 

by right how this works is that with your slow circuit a/f, when very lean conditions, will complete combustion efficiently but no power.

when you richen somemore from very lean a/f, with more fuel, more power with efficient combustion, rpm increases more at same throttle opening.

the point where you get maximum power, with complete combustion, rpm will be the highest.

richen beyond this the engine will lose power with incomplete combustion, rpm will drop. (incomplete combustion because more fuel than the spark can ignite).

 

i know losoh, but if follow this concept, should be able to find the magic spot for tuning.

 

alternatively, you can try slowly opening your throttle from close to fully open then back. difference between over lean and rich

- over lean: pick up no power, difficult to maintain rpm (surging of engine at throttle some way through)

- over rich: pick up no power, but can main rpm well as long u open throttle big big, need to slightly open throttle for easier e starting

by right when tuning okay, transition between the circuits with different throttle opening should be smooth.

 

end of losoh post.

Edited October 1, 2014 by sawfly

[sawfly]

My Phantom was getting around 40km+++ km per litre many years back. The spark plug was white back then.

The spark plug is now light brown.

 

To solve your problem...

 

After turning the Air:Fuel ration screw clockwise, the bike runs richer.

 

When it runs richer, the RPM goes slower.

 

To counter that, turn the idling screw 1/4 round to make it run faster. Turn more if not enough to prevent the engine from stalling.

 

It should be fine after that.

 

woah i nvr see u post until i posted. that's a simpler way to explain!