wat is the best eo for 2b bike during run in

[Guest des.sim]

hi bro, would like to know wat are the best eo for new bike during run in??? and wat are the most problems i will face during bike run in??? most of you all biker would used wat kind of eo??? thks...

[shunoski]

Mineral for running in. After that, you can use your own perferences.

[skateboy]

as said, mineral oil is for running in. any synthetic oil of any make is not recommanded. even semi synthetic is not recommanded.

 

prob? riding slow during running in is dangerous. other than that, for the bike itself, nothing much. just oil change n filter change.

[Silent Hunter]

What I heard from Planet's Ah Chong, is that the reason people use mineral oil during run in is because it is cheaper. And that mineral oil is not any better.

 

But I have also heard from people that using mineral oil is better because the wear and tear for the piston during the run in come in faster. Hence finish the run in quickly.

[shunoski]

yeah, it more to the quality of the oil. Bike's OC not like car.. few dollars more can get synthetic, but people still use mineral for running in.

[crazydj]

I have never tried mineral EO before. In what situations should i use Mineral besides running in? New clutch plates?

[Silent Hunter]

When your COE renewed only 5 years and it's the 5th year so you are not worried your engine going to "chui" or not.

[shunoski]

After overhauling, or when you're on a budget! haha! Mineral gave me a slightly bad FC compared to when I use semi.

[eerrpp]

guys, may i noe wat u guys prefer during running in a 2 STROKE BIKE after changing engine(block n piston sets)..

 

Steps/Procedure etc...... thanks!

[guwakzai]

2 stroker open 2T abit more and just whack ..no problem...

[eerrpp]

2 stroker open 2T abit more and just whack ..no problem...

 

but new block.... if wack will haf scratches on block?

[Guest des.sim]

thks to all bros who share

[stsoh]

as said, mineral oil is for running in. any synthetic oil of any make is not recommanded. even semi synthetic is not recommanded.

...................

 

this is a myth, doesn't apply for today technologies.....maybe in the 80's, 70's n b4. in the old days, yes.

comparsion today's high tech with 80's, 70's ........ still believe in old hen tale.

been riding for 30 yrs n still no educated mechanics, all the malaysians monkey see monkey do style.

my heartache when they use hammer to pound on tight fittings tat can be slide in easily with twist n turns.

Edited August 11, 2009 by stsoh

[shunoski]

this is a myth, doesn't apply for today technologies.....maybe in the 80's, 70's n b4. in the old days, yes.

comparsion today's high tech with 80's, 70's ........ still believe in old hen tale.

been riding for 30 yrs n still no educated mechanics, all the malaysians monkey see monkey do style.

my heartache when they use hammer to pound on tight fittings tat can be slide in easily with twist n turns.

 

Well then, after all the blasting. What's the rational in not needing mineral EO? Please share with us junior bikers.

 

You gotta let TS know why, since most of the people here recommend mineral and you're KO-ing the notion. Rest of us can learn too.

Edited August 11, 2009 by shunoski

[stsoh]

we r all smart/educated enough to research on web, here's an old man story;

in 70's n b4, labour intensive, man skill machine accuracy upto 0.1 tolerance.

in 80's, machine intensive, machine accuracy upto 0.01 tolerance.

in 90's, computerised intensive, computer-controlled machine accuracy upto 0.001 tolerance.

 

current metallury technology r much much better grade than in the 70's.

so as to say with better tolerance parts n metallury production.

current machine produce r far better than 70's.

then there were only mineral oil, synthetic oil cause oil seal to balloon n oil leakage.

no one dare to use synthetic oil, so mineral oil is the only choice.

today is different, no such effect on oil seal when using synthetic oil.

full synthetic oil for better lubrication, detergent to clean carbon soot, many other functional ingredients.

 

wat's the different betwn mineral n synthetic?

both r oil, mineral is nature dino n synthetic is man-made.

both oils serving function is to lubricate parts.

parts wear when there is no supply of oil to lubricate.

mineral oil has one grade VI (viscosity index) whereas synthetic is multi-VI as in 10~50 range.

mineral oil breaks down faster than synthetic oil.

 

do u think tat running mineral oil will wear your engine faster during run-in?? NO.

most wear occur at the start of your engine when there is no supply of oil.

of course, if dun change mineral oil for long period n it breakdown then parts will wear.

[shunoski]

Ok Mr Des.Sim, the professor had spoken. Just use any within your budget comfort. But on a general note, mineral usually yield the highest fuel consumption. My bike dropped 4-8km/Litre when using mineral from semi.

[hachi]

In fact most engine dont even need to run in....Engine are run inside factory and rev to red line and make sure they are within power spec before shipping out....

So millions of bike you think they bother to warm up and slowly rev the engine???

Just rev,whack and go....

Edited August 12, 2009 by hachi

[breadman]

but how come during the first and 2nd change of engine oil for a new bike you can notice a lot of shiny specks in the oil change? if engine don't need to run in?

[stsoh]

those r probably coatings from bearing cage if it is chips, u got a lemon bike.

there r always a 1% failure from new bikes.

only way to know metal wear is to send your oil for analysis.

u do run-in is for mating parts together when roll/rub/score onto each others.

manufacturers always encourage to run-in at 50% since they already did 100% run.

in real life, we can do up to 80% run-in period without much stress to parts.

just don't redline for the first 1,000 km.

Edited August 14, 2009 by stsoh

[eerrpp]

those r probably coatings from bearing cage if it is chips, u got a lemon bike.

there r always a 1% failure from new bikes.

only way to know metal wear is to send your oil for analysis.

u do run-in is for mating parts together.

manufacturers always encourage to run-in at 50% since they already did 100% run.

in real life, we can do up to 80% run-in period without much stress to parts.

just don't redline for the first 1,000 km.

 

wat if "rebuild" engine.. as in, block and piston are changed.. to season the "components", can ride till rpm7k-9k.. ??

[stsoh]

wat's is your redline? eg. 10k, 11k, 12k or 14k rpm, max 80% of redline.

it is best tat u do cyclic rpm, it means tat u don't ride at constant rpm.

 

example:

don't riding on expressways which means riding at constant 90kph@7k rpm.

ride on low to high n high to low rpm, as like on stop n go, go n stop traffic.

 

for a small bike if we do 50% run-in, we will be road hogging n it's dangerous to ride on sillypore roads.

no such problem for a superbike to do 50% run-in.

Edited August 14, 2009 by stsoh