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Posted
So technically, no damage was done to the bike components right? A new battery, again. But this is one lesson I will never forget. Lol. Current flows from the +ve terminal to the -ve terminal. Thanks Ah Pek.

 

Most mototiam have the rectifier grounded as their so called "point grounding"..mine is not, if anything goes..that should be it first. Anyway, you may want to check the charging output for 13.8v dc or slightly less but not below 12.8v dc 'guideline'. Need any help with that, come over on the weekend day time.

 

Btw..if you have to get a new battery, make sure it's the Yuasa "MF" (YTZ10) type. Last longer, more stable with current load delivery and very stable. Chiong Aik is selling at $160..if you need help to get cheaper..pm me. This is not your regular electrolyte liquid injected then sealed type at ($65 to $85) from the usual mototiam.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
i wunder when my batt need 2 change ....now i c inside so pack , change battery sure sianzz 1/2

 

Aiyah...come here lah if you need to change.:sian:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hi Pek, update on the EO change with nano, valve cleaner n X-1R...

 

First 50km... Engine felt like very tight... heavy compression feeling... Need more twist to the throttle... Felt rough...

 

After 100km... Can feel the engine became smoother, less friction... Pick up smoother too... Normally RPM ard 4 ~ 6k engine felt quite rough, now it felt smooth...

 

Once VTEC kicks in the engine became less draggy... it has the "push me somemore" feeling... Before change the engine feel max out ard 10k, now easily can push to red line, effortlessly...

 

After 200km... can feel the whole engine became more responsive and smoother...

 

Mileage : not my main concern but here the first tank data : 17km/l

Not much diff as before... Mainly city riding = jam+stuck+stop :(

 

After first tank, now top up with X-1R... Will review & feedback again upon the next tank...

 

It will be value for money if the engine can maintain this smoothness up to the claim 20 to 30k...

 

Shiok for the time being... Thumb up for the engine protection !

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp350/glennkoh/TDM900/TDM.jpg
Posted

Hi Ah Pek. I was thinking of getting a spec 1 with new coe + leovince exhaust with new 10 yrs coe @ about 5.8k to 6k quoted by mototiam, do u think it's worth it? in any case if i were to purchase it , i doubt the moto tiam know how to tune the carb to match the aftermarket encan , can you do the tunning + wash carb for me?

 

pls advice.

Posted
Hi Pek, update on the EO change with nano, valve cleaner n X-1R...

 

First 50km... Engine felt like very tight... heavy compression feeling... Need more twist to the throttle... Felt rough...

 

After 100km... Can feel the engine became smoother, less friction... Pick up smoother too... Normally RPM ard 4 ~ 6k engine felt quite rough, now it felt smooth...

 

Once VTEC kicks in the engine became less draggy... it has the "push me somemore" feeling... Before change the engine feel max out ard 10k, now easily can push to red line, effortlessly...

 

After 200km... can feel the whole engine became more responsive and smoother...

 

 

Mileage : not my main concern but here the first tank data : 17km/l

Not much diff as before... Mainly city riding = jam+stuck+stop :(

 

After first tank, now top up with X-1R... Will review & feedback again upon the next tank...

 

It will be value for money if the engine can maintain this smoothness up to the claim 20 to 30k...

 

Shiok for the time being... Thumb up for the engine protection !

 

Thanks for the deatail feedback bro!..this is great. I need to gauage as closely as how things goes. Yes please, monitor your second tank fc..especially you are on city street travelling. Another guy got 60km extra onhis first tank..but he uses PIE.

 

Yes..change interval is long..it gets better at certain stages...LOL!

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Hi Ah Pek. I was thinking of getting a spec 1 with new coe + leovince exhaust with new 10 yrs coe @ about 5.8k to 6k quoted by mototiam, do u think it's worth it? in any case if i were to purchase it , i doubt the moto tiam know how to tune the carb to match the aftermarket encan , can you do the tunning + wash carb for me?

 

pls advice.

 

At that price, I expect the bike to be in tip-top condition but that for sure we won't know and no matter how good it looks external..problems lurks and surfaces after a few months with the bike. If the tiam is charging because of the LV..its not worth it as probably its pretty clogged by now..I rather go for a nice LaVin purse mannn!...heeee..x2!

 

As for carb cleansing, no problem..cheap and good and don't have to strip off carbs and wait at least half a day..but tunning to match exhaust, I have to buy a DYNO machine first :angel: No point doing carbs balancing or synchronisation often mistaken for carbs tunning. Tunning meaning..readjusting off stock standard setting of air/fuel mixture for each carbs to match each header tubing to end can..good only when you have a full system and its new. No matter how good the tunning is..still jiat_U lah...can neve rmatch stock.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

for me my 1st tank was gauge at a 30km xtra w/o eps valve cleaner and green oils.....

2nd tank now is eps wif valve cleaners , will feed back the out come......

PEACE TO THE WORLD.

顺顺利利... å‘啊.

Posted
Thanks for the deatail feedback bro!..this is great. I need to gauage as closely as how things goes. Yes please, monitor your second tank fc..especially you are on city street travelling. Another guy got 60km extra onhis first tank..but he uses PIE.

 

Yes..change interval is long..it gets better at certain stages...LOL!

 

wah,ah pek ur nano eo seems to be fuel saving... cant wait man... btw, ur new nano eo required how much oz of x1r?? cos mine onli left 2oz

WTS givi e16 smile box, with led @$20

 

 

interested party , do PM me..

Posted
At that price, I expect the bike to be in tip-top condition but that for sure we won't know and no matter how good it looks external..problems lurks and surfaces after a few months with the bike. If the tiam is charging because of the LV..its not worth it as probably its pretty clogged by now..I rather go for a nice LaVin purse mannn!...heeee..x2!

 

As for carb cleansing, no problem..cheap and good and don't have to strip off carbs and wait at least half a day..but tunning to match exhaust, I have to buy a DYNO machine first :angel: No point doing carbs balancing or synchronisation often mistaken for carbs tunning. Tunning meaning..readjusting off stock standard setting of air/fuel mixture for each carbs to match each header tubing to end can..good only when you have a full system and its new. No matter how good the tunning is..still jiat_U lah...can neve rmatch stock.

 

 

how ah pek

dyno jet good?

feel like installing it

Posted
AH pek,

 

He put additional spacer on suspension.. Now I noticed.. he he .. :D .. but not shining one, just silver colour metal..

 

Mine is the same except that I polished it..heeee...x3! :angel:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
wah,ah pek ur nano eo seems to be fuel saving... cant wait man... btw, ur new nano eo required how much oz of x1r?? cos mine onli left 2oz

 

Adding X-1R after Nano is optional..just that if you are use to X-1R smoothness, you prefer to have it and oso it halp extend the coating fro Nano. With compression regain, it feels a little 'rough' (kind of like "breaking in" feelings) but actually in real physic, it's not. Throttle feel from engine is more solid and tight kind of.

 

If you wanna add..4ozs would be best. It's ok..I can always open up a bottle and let you have 2 ozs to regulars like yourself that are already using X-1R.:)

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
how ah pek

dyno jet good?

feel like installing it

 

What for mannn?...you already got non stock jettingas you told me before. You got lots of $$$s to spare iszit..:angel: Your bike is already a "track bike". Save the money for the family and have extra treat this Christmas mannn!

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hey ah pek,my throttle getting draggy especially for first 2gears,any suggestions?

 

Anyway,been monitoring my fc,changed to 140 rear tyre,fc not much better about 260km per tank of 15litres but of cos pick up is must lighter and better :angel:

27 DEC 2007 - CLASS 2B

15 JAN 2008 - HONDA NSR 150 SP

07 APR 2009 - CLASS 2A

30 MAY 2009 - HONDA CB400 VERSION S

14 SEP 2009 - CLASS 3

14 OCT 2010 - CLASS 2

02 SEP 2011 - HONDA CBR600RR HRC

13 MAY 2013 - VESPA PX200 1985

22 JAN 2014 - DUCATI STREETFIGHTER S

Posted
Hey ah pek,my throttle getting draggy especially for first 2gears,any suggestions?

 

Anyway,been monitoring my fc,changed to 140 rear tyre,fc not much better about 260km per tank of 15litres but of cos pick up is must lighter and better :angel:

 

Never heard of throttle being draggy..not sure what you meant?..or iszit your clutch biting point is to far out already?

 

As for your fc 'problem'..may be its time for a new set of Piston rings..but I think it's your end can issue with carb tunning.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Never heard of throttle being draggy..not sure what you meant?..or iszit your clutch biting point is to far out already?

 

As for your fc 'problem'..may be its time for a new set of Piston rings..but I think it's your end can issue with carb tunning.

 

oh,i meant when throttling for first 2 gears,it seemed to be 'heavy' - like will have to throttle a lot before the strength comes in,thats what i meant by draggy.haha:cheeky:

 

anyway,so if its my end can,shld i replace it to stock one or any suggestions?cos fc like that.its kind of really bad.haha :angel:

27 DEC 2007 - CLASS 2B

15 JAN 2008 - HONDA NSR 150 SP

07 APR 2009 - CLASS 2A

30 MAY 2009 - HONDA CB400 VERSION S

14 SEP 2009 - CLASS 3

14 OCT 2010 - CLASS 2

02 SEP 2011 - HONDA CBR600RR HRC

13 MAY 2013 - VESPA PX200 1985

22 JAN 2014 - DUCATI STREETFIGHTER S

Posted
oh,i meant when throttling for first 2 gears,it seemed to be 'heavy' - like will have to throttle a lot before the strength comes in,thats what i meant by draggy.haha:cheeky:

 

anyway,so if its my end can,shld i replace it to stock one or any suggestions?cos fc like that.its kind of really bad.haha :angel:

 

Can try lah..you just missed a good stock end can..sold to ralliart from Holugyi yesterday :sian:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

ah pek u were right. It was a wiring problem but i'm not sure if its the kill switch wiring. Took the mech a while to find the problem.

 

Is it important for the old bikes to change their wirings? I'm sure over time the condition of the wires deteriorated significantly.

Posted

ah pek u were right. It was a wiring problem but i'm not sure if its the kill switch wiring. Took the mech a while to find the problem.

 

Is it important for the old bikes to change their wirings? I'm sure over time the condition of the wires deteriorated significantly.

Posted
ah pek u were right. It was a wiring problem but i'm not sure if its the kill switch wiring. Took the mech a while to find the problem.

 

Is it important for the old bikes to change their wirings? I'm sure over time the condition of the wires deteriorated significantly.

 

Yes..the wirings can give you a real headache..the kill switch one especially, your bike would just died anytime while engine is running. Careful with troubleshooting electrical wiring problems at mototiam..its time consuming and expensive.

 

The most common for old bikes are the main wire hardness near the neck of the bike just behind the headlamp outlet below the handle bar. The weakest point and where wire tend to break. Cut and joint job can be expensive especially troubleshooting time and locating it..ususally more than one wires can be invovled. If you can hange the whole hardness, it's better. I just changed by myself yesterday after so many wires been cut and rewired..a whole day job.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hi All,

 

I just bought a ver R about 2 weeks ago.. now still running first tank of petrol.

Wanna see how is my FC..

Been reading this thread from page 80+... now only at 130+.. damn shag leh!!:sian:

I need a crash course..lol

 

Ah Pek.. u are like the super4 guru man!

Correct me if i am wrong, to improve on bike need to do things like grounding, special EO mixed with X-R, green oil (dunno wat is that)

 

Anyway I would like to change my coolent. can anyone teach me what coolent to buy and how to DIY change myself? I am super noobie. :shy:

GileraRunnerVXR200 [B][COLOR="Black"]FW9973R[/COLOR][/B] (Jul 08 ~ Sep 09) RIP Oct 09 HondaCB400VerR aka XiaoBai (Dec 09 ~ Feb 11) YamahaFazer600 aka XiaoBai2 (Dec 11 ~ Dec 13) YamahaFino (Jul 10 ~ Current)

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